I bought an 05 elantra for my daughter's first car. 47,000 miles.
I noticed every time the fan is on, the a/c appears to be running (as evidenced by cold air, clicking on and off of the air conditioner, draining of the system onto the road after shut down, etc.). Even with the a/c light off, it's clearly running. Could it be the switch or relay?
I have a 2001 Audi A4 1.8t (AWM engine, B5 platform). When I start the car, I get misfires on all cylinders (very rough idle, sometimes it stalls when the engine is cold) and the car appears to be running lean. Once the CEL comes on, it runs fine (albeit the slight loss of power do the ECU going into limp mode to correct the problem).
So far, I've done the following myself: new O2 sensors, new SAI pump, new EGR valve, new diverter valve, new N75 valve, new vacuum hoses, cleaned the throttle body, new MAF sensor, cleaned the air filter, new plugs, and new coils. When the problem persisted, I had my mechanic change the timing belt, check for vacuum leaks, change the valve cover gasket, replace the fuel pump and filter. None of this has solved the problem! This is driving me nuts.
At this point, there are only two possibilities that I can think of:
1) Catalytic converter is clogged? I pulled out the pre-cat O2 sensor, started the car, but it still misfired. This seems to mean that there's another problem (i.e., if the cat is clogged, it's in addition to something else).
2) Dirty fuel injectors? I've put two bottles of Techron through the car to no avail. From the outside, they look pretty dirty, so I'll definitely try removing them, cleaning them, and replacing the gaskets. Hopefully this solves it.
Is there something I'm missing?
Recently replaced plugs/wires on soon-to-be 10 year old '04 SF 3.5L (157K mi.) for the first time.
Plugs were OE Champion Platinum and all 6 looked identical except for excessive gap of .010 +/- due to all the miles. Replaced plugs with same as OE. Old plug wires looked good, but replaced them with aftermarket wires ( fit was as good as OE). Also replaced plenum gasket.
Problem is: engine runs rough at idle and high rpm and appears to be mis-firing. CEL is off and code reader shows no Trouble Codes stored.
Our Elantra is 2003 2.0L GLS which has now done 117000 km.
We are very pleased with it. However, the "shock wave" pushed ahead by an oncoming truck can cause a sudden wind whistle - more like a loud shreak that appears to come from the left front of the car.
It can be quite un-nerving when it occurs. It can also be triggered by strong head or cross winds.
How can I turn off the day time running lights on the car? I turned the light switch to the off button but it still turns on when I drive. How do I go about to turn this off?
View 171 RepliesWhen firing up the engine cold it runs really rough, smells very rich all the time, even warmed up. No codes set, fuel trims are within 5-10%. I've replaced the front O2 sensor, swapped crank & cam sensors, Map sensor (have lots of spare parts) & I'm sure there was more things I've changed but can't remember. I have a snap on scanner and everything is within parameters.
I have not checked the EGR valve or solenoids yet. It's a 2006 Santa Fe 2.4l 5 speed, new timing belt & balance belt replaced when I dropped this engine in. Is there a common problem with these that I could begin looking for?
I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS. This past month, the A/C tends to stop cooling for a period of time. I took it to one shop and they recycled the freon, but the problem continued. I took it to another shop and they also recycled the freon. It is worse when the outside temperature is over 95 degrees. Additionally, the second shop hooked it up to a computer and said the computer is telling them that the car is getting hot and shutting down the compressor, but the air conditioning system is fine. The car is not overheating. They proposed changing the thermostat for a huge price so I declined.
I've read online that it is possible that this could be caused by a thermister or a low pressure sensor and am considering taking the car to an auto electric shop for diagnosis. What else this could be? The radiator was replace a few months ago.
I am currently driving a 2005 Elantra (manual trans) with only 48k miles on it. Less than a year after buying the car new the clutch had to be replaced (around 10k miles) and now the second clutch is about to go as well. I do not ride the clutch or drive like a maniac so there is no reason to be on a second clutch at 48k, let alone a third one. Is there anything I can do besides putting a new clutch in to protect against this problem in the future? Also, would installing a stronger, high-performance clutch work?
View 1 RepliesI have just purchased a 2005 elantra fx and noticed a vibration all the time in the steering and you can feel it in the seat on the floor and peddles, not severe but enough to be annoying. I had the same vibration in my last car a 2001 elantra. Is this normal with these cars, or could it be something like engine mounts as there is a very very slight clunk on acceleration ?
View 2 RepliesMy daughters 2002 HYD Elantra engines misses sporadically often every time after a fill up. What it might be. Once some of the gas is used then it stops.
View 3 RepliesFriend of mine has a 2001 Elantra, not sure of the mileage but it started running really rough, like it's on 3 cylinders. His mech wants to look at the head, thinks there's a broken spring or something.
I asked if the timing belts ever been changed, no it hasn't. My suggestion is it might have lost a few teeth from the belt and jumped. I can't see it being a broken valve spring or something worse because the beta engine are tough as nails.
He said the wires are fine, they probably need replacing too because my friend is the type of person who changes oil and that's it.
O.K. first of all I had an issue with the Odometer pointer being jumpy. Sometimes it wouldn't move. Now I replaced the input sensor at first and did not fix the problem. I replaced the output sensor and fixed it. "BUT", Now, I have a problem with the transmission shifting. I get an engine light while driving and the 2nd gear seems to take its time shifting and when it does it make the left side drive shaft kick in hard and spends my wheel to a screeching effect. Plus a thump on the transmission. I rechecked the sensor for connection and reinstalled. Drove the car still have the same issue?
View 2 Replies2001 Elantra shifts to overdrive only after running 3000 rpm for a mile. Then at other times it shifts to overdrive ok. fluid is ok Sometimes putting the shifter into neutral with the car rolling and putting it back into drive will get it to upshift.
View 1 Replieshow to get a spare key/fob appears to be out of date and I also couldn't find the info. about how to program it.
View 4 RepliesI picked up a really cheap Hyundai Elantra 2005 that the kid that owned it really beat up on. Right now I am trying to sort out the issues so that it can become my daily driver for the next few years.
Second issue, The check engine light is on and it is popping up a P0171 generic engine running too lean code. The car looses power sometimes and I can smell gas in the car. I have a friend that is going to be loaning me his MAC code reader so that I can see if it is one of the O2 sensors and if so which one tomorrow.
I have a 2001 elantra 2.0 gls. It is running rough with low power and flashing engine light. It may have a bad 02 sensor but when checked for spark only the 2 and 3 cylinders were sparking. I can confirm this because when I unplugged the 1 and 4 spark plugs it made no difference in the way it was running. Next I tested the resistance on the coil packs. Both were an even 1.5 ohms. How can it be that the coil packs are good yet the plugs aren't firing? I also have moved plug wires around and have had no success.
View 8 RepliesI am having a mysterious electrical problem with my 2004 Elantra. The radio and clock light come on over night running the battery down. It started last winter. I replaced the radio in the spring and the problem went away, so I thought the problem was solved.
This past week the temperature got very cold at night for the first time since I replaced the radio, and the problem happened again. The next morning I drove the car for a few miles, came home, turned the car off, and the radio and clock light turned off as they should. I drove the car several times during the day and everything worked ok. I checked the car at midnight, and everything was still ok. The next morning the radio and the clock light were on again. This has occurred again each day for the last 2 days.
So it appears the electrical problem has something to do with the car being cold over night. How to resolve this problem - besides moving to a warmer climate.
2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
I am new to the world of maintaining my own car. I had an issue this morning when I drove my 2011 Elantra. The car started jerking from time to time while i was driving. So I ended up going back home and swapping cars. Other than a coming up oil change, what could the issue with my car be? I am at about 43k miles.
View 7 Replies2001 Jetta 2.0, manual trans
I've been having problems with intermittent P0420 cat below efficiency code. Everything else is fine, no codes, runs great. I tried spacing the post cat sensor back w/ extender bung (after replacing post cat sensor..) and still get the code. I don't hear any rattling or anything to make me think cat is bad physically. I was told by dealer that a code update might resolve for $200 - which got me thinking that that if that was so, it should should be a problem which Feds should be aware.
I searched safercar.gov and found this NHTSA ID Number: 10054864
It's a service bulletin saying that VW made the limits too sensitive and it seems there was a customer satisfaction campaign to update code - pdf on site CSC-10054864-8736
It says:
May 2007
Subject: Emissions Service Action N7
1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI with VR6 Engine
Update Electronic Control Module (ECM) Software for Catalytic Converter Monitoring System Dear Volkswagen Owner: We are writing to inform you of an emissions service action on some 1999-2002 Jetta, Golf and GTI VR6 engine vehicles. Our records show that you are the owner of one of these vehicles.
What Is The Problem? The electronic control module (ECM) software for the catalytic converter monitoring system is too sensitive. This can cause the MIL to come on, and some vehicles may exceed Federal and/or California emissions standards. Also, in some cases this leads to unnecessary catalytic converter replacement. What Will Volkswagen Do? Dealers will update the ECM software.
I recently picked up a 2001 MK4 jetta and Have some issues with door locks. Upon searching I'm thinking I may have a faulty door lock module.
Symptoms are that the doors will randomly lock for no reason when I unlock the door and sit inside for a min or two. PO broke the drivers armrest control and glued them in place and I think some glue seeped into the lock button as it is very stiff and no longer works. Going to replace the door card and controls but wondering if the problem may be due to typical burnt out soldering points?
For my window issue, passenger window appears to possibly be crooked in the window clips as it stops 3/4 of the way up and will reverse back down as if stuck. I have to keep pressing it to get it to go up. Does this sound like typical broken clips and glass is about to fall? Would I just undo clips and reattach?