Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 Doesn't Go Forward At All If Shift Into Reverse And Then Go Back Into Drive
Jun 24, 2016
I recently bought my '05 Elantra from a small dealership and I'm starting to see a problem with it. If I shift into reverse and then go back into drive, the car doesn't go forward at all. I have to mess with the gear shift a bit to get the car moving. I'm pretty sure it's a bad linkage. The dealership I bought it from said it desperately needed motor mounts when they got it so they replaced 2 of them. I'm sure the problems are related. I can't find any information on replacing it myself though.
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Recently I've noticed that every time when shifting from park to drive and occasionally from reverse to drive in my 05 Golf GLS, I would have to remain off the gas for 3-4 seconds otherwise the car would jerk forward. If I press on the gas ever so slightly, the rpm would go up to around 1000 then jerk. Why this is happening?
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I started to realize something very weird in my car. While in drive from a stop I would accelerate and the car doesn't seem to shift up when its suppose too. I know that my car shifts around 2.1k RPM smoothly into second gear but now it would go all the way up to 3K RPM and slams into second gear which is really weird. Sometimes it does this problem and sometimes it doesn't. I would say 70% it would slam into gear. Not only does it slam but it would seem like this car does not want to shift at the proper rpm even when i foot is on the gas pedal very lightly.
Once I got home I tried some stop and goes and see if the problem persist. It still did. Then I tried doing shiftronic and from first gear once the line touches 2k RPM i shift up and yet it would still lag and the needle would go up to 3K RPM once again. This seems like a very bad problem especially MPG wise. I am still under warranty, I think because I've only swap the air filter with a drop in K&N and just plasti dipped my wheels and such.
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I own a Elantra 2011 and I have a major problem. I cannot shift from PARK to DRIVE and my electric windows doesn't work either ! Everything else working fine and the car start normally !! The dealer cannot find the trouble and the car just have 19802 KM on it!!
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I'm having trouble with the automatic transmission in my 04' Elantra, it acted like the speed sensor was failing, but later the same day it lost all gears, forward and reverse. after turning the car off and sitting a while I started it back up and had gears again, but the trany is making noise. Fluid level is ok.
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Have an 02 Auto with the 2.7, 4wheel drive, and it doesn't shift into 5th gear. Can go through the 4 gears with the manual shift, but when just in drive, only shifts up to 4th. At 65mph, RPM's over 2500.
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For a few months now I have been hearing a tap clunk type noise coming from under the car when I shift the auto trans into drive and reverse. Also sometimes when the car is slowing when driving I hear the tap sound as it shifts into first. I drove in by my local dealer and they listened to it and said Elantra transmissions can get noisy there is nothing wrong. They told me I have plenty of Warranty left so if something happens I will be covered.
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I just got myself a 1993 ford explorer and the damn thing won't drive forward but it will drive in reverse. What could be the problem?? I've already drained the Transmission Fluid out & refilled it. My friend told me it is most likely the Neutral Safety Switch but I have no clue where it is located. I will be honest I have absolutely no clue about vehicles.
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I have a 2002 santa fe 2.7. I just had the transmission rebuilt and since then have noticed a clunking sound when I shift into drive or reverse. It seems to be the lower motor mount is making noise from the motor moving the mount. I look at the mount and it appears to look good, but was wondering how I can really tell if a motor mount needs replacing or not.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with approx 155,000 miles on it(I don't know if that matters). The car started ok at first. When I put it into reverse, I noticed that it was really hard to move the gear shift(which it's normally really easy). I put it back in park and let it sit for a minute thinking it just had to warm up a bit more.
When I tried it again, it was still hard to shift, but this time when it got into gear I heard a loud clunk. This scared me, so I put it back in park and turned off the car. Now it won't start. All of my lights(headlights, dashboard lights, radio) come on, but the engine won't turn over.
I don't know if any of the following is relevant but I'm putting it out here anyway just in case it is: The battery is only a year old(and since all my lights came on, I don't think it's dead)I had an oil change on Saturday. The belts were replaced a few months ago. My check engine light is on because of an O2 sensor.
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I have an 01 Elantra Gls with perplexing issues. The car starts at 3000 rpms, and continues to bounce between 2k and 3.5k in both park and neutral. when I put it in reverse i get a very hard shift. It actually jerks the whole car. in drive and reverse, it idles around 1.5k it hesitates quite a bit to accelerate. All fluid levels are right and don't smell burnt. it takes me 10 mins to put 4 gallons of gas in. if i pump too fast it shoots back at me. i randomly smell gas while driving. Im hoping these problems are a couple of issue I can handle at home. i just wanted some input before i buy the manual. thinking vacuum lines maf sensor.
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I have the following codes:
P0705
P1529
It looks like P1529 is caused by P0705. P0705 is the neutral range sensor. I purchased the sensor and replaced it. It is aligned correctly and I am still having the same CEL and codes.
What the car doing: The car jerks into reverse and drive. The dash does not indicate what gear I am in (PRNDL).
When it drives, acceleration is very slow. I believe the car is "stuck" in third gear. I've heard of fail safe mode?
What I did: This problem started when I changed my stereo. I did three bad things which may have caused this problem.
One, I had to put the car in "L" to get the dash off. I left it in "L" for a while then I tried starting the engine while it was still in "L".
Two, when I reinstalled the center console I swapped the wiring for the hazard lights and the rear windshield wiper (GT)
Three, I wired the dash illumination positive and negative together.
The cluster's backlight does not come on anymore and these codes came up. I checked all fuses and they are good. Where to look for a possible shorted wire that can be causing this?
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My son called me today to pick him up. His 98 S10 would shift into gear but wouldn't go forward or into reverse. New clutch 6 months ago, hoping something simple like low gear oil or worse?
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I have a 1966 Ford Mustang 2 + 2 (289 cu. in.) V8 with four barrel carburetor. It has more than 170K miles on it. It starts right away, but when I shift the automatic transmission to reverse or forward it dies out every time. I changed the fuel pump and the fuel filter, but the problem persists. I have had this car for almost 46 years now and I cannot bear to part with it.
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Its a 2005 Elantra i dont know the sub model, but they said the heat will be working just fine, then out of no where it stops, at first i thought it was the issue's i've seen on here before about a bad blower, but its still blowing it just goes from hot to cold, and then it will shift back again after x amount of time.
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I have a 95 F250 with 7.5 and E4OD. I was towing my Jeep and trailer out for the weekend a few months back (its been parked since) and heard some noise coming from the trailer. So at a stop light I put it in park with the engine running for a second, went to put it back into drive and it hasn't gone back into drive since. Reverse works perfectly. Fortunately I was able to back up onto the center divide, unload my Jeep and back the truck onto the trailer and tow home with my buddies Chevy. Anyways, its been dead since. Where I can start to look? None of the forward gears work at all.
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72 Ford F250 with big block 460. after three years my truck is ready to run as soon as i get my new fuel pump in today. was hooking up shift linkage and noticed the shift lever will only click back two times and then goes all the way forward. I put a shift kit in the c6 and it was beautiful condition inside cant figure out why it would only shift to two places.
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My 2002 lincoln ls v8 140k miles doesn't move when put into reverse or drive 5 or even d4,3,2,1 , it just starts to roll back/forward when taken out of park. It has the gear selector with d5, d4,3,2,1 not the select shift. I was told needs new transmission, but before it stopped moving completely it was still driveable second slipped at lower speeds(mostly when looking for parking or in traffic).
I had made an appointment to bring my car to the shop and the same day is when it stopped moving. All this happen within a week during the week i constantly got an e where d5 was and on last day check engine light came on.
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I don't know if this is related, but my car has not shifted as well as it did before I gave it my oil change. The car only has 3K miles, new Hyundai oil filter, and Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-20.
It's not a major dip in performance, but enough for me to know its different. One example is when I come to a stop, the car seems to surge forward a little bit. Another is that is shifts hard from time to time when I give it gas.
Going uphill, it just doesn't have the power like it did. Also, it feels that it's not in the right gear..like 5th or 6th gear. It's hard to describe the symptoms. The weird part is that the MPG is the higher than normal.
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Bought a 2003 golf gti 1.8t as kind of a project. Car had no interior no exhaust and some shifting issues. To fix the shifting issues rather than replacing solenoids I just got a rebuilt valve body. After installation the car still doesn't shift from 1st to second properly and now I don't have reverse. (It's an 09a transmission)
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About once a week our 2011 Prius will start, but the "Ready" indicator does not come on and the car cannot be shifted into drive. Once this happens it takes several attempts, turning the car on/off, until it finally comes on "Ready." I cannot create the problem, but it may stem from pushing the start button before the brake is fully depressed.
Last night it took more than 5 minutes to get it going. I "reset" the car by exiting, locking, and re entering the car. Then it worked, that procedure caused it to work.
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