I have a 2005 Elantra. A few weeks I parked it after returning from work. The next morning not even the remote would work and the power locks would also not work. I didn't leave the light on either. I tried to jump it, and nothing. I bought a brand new battery, still nothing, not even the headlights or power locks will work. Is there something I can check to fix myself before having it towed to a mechanic?
View 1 RepliesI am the original owner of a 2005 Elantra. It has 89,000 miles on it. I go to start it and the power comes on but it will not crank. It will start if I jump it though. I checked the battery. It is a year old and fine. We cleaned all of the leads and cable leads to the battery. It was fine for a couple of days, but having a problem again this morning. The cold may be a factor.
View 4 RepliesDealing with mother in law's 01 Elantra GT. 175k miles, unknown history for the most part except for recent maintenance.
Having some issues now. The car will not start..the battery is fine and that is ruled out. The car will intermittently not crank...it could be days, but luckily I have the car today and the situation is currently happening. All my dash lights and electricals work fine.
It is an automatic car.
Brake lights work when pressing the pedal. I looked at the switch near the pedal and it appears to function properly but see below.
When I turn the key, I can hear noise from the cruise control module underneath the hood, but nothing else. No clicking, no crank. Dash lights don't change except the clock fades out, but turns back on when key is off the start position.
I thought maybe something with shifter. In the Run key position, I can sometimes shift it out of park and into another gear...but sometimes not. It seems that changing how I press the brake pedal affects whether I can get it out of park.
The car was perfectly fine earlier today and that is why this is so strange. Sometimes it would leave her stranded, sometimes it works fine.
When I do shift out of gear, the dashboard reflects the proper gear on the digital display.
I smell gas when I start my vehicle. However, the smell goes away once the car warms up. Is this a concern?
View 5 RepliesThis issue has only happened twice to me.
I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
I'm having a problem with the car just shutting off while I'm driving. The computer says its the crank sensor. I replaced it and it got worse would not start. Put old one back same results. Put new one in and it starts and runs but still stalls while I'm driving. Computer now says crank sensor circuit. Not sure if it is another bad sensor or short somewhere.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2009 Entrant, lately I've started experiencing no crank starts, I try a couple of times and then it starts normally. The car has new battery and terminals so am thinking it might the starter. I've looked online on a how to change starter for a 2009 starter video but no dice. I've found every other Hyundai but not the 2007 to 2010.
View 2 RepliesBeen having an issue with my gt manual trans cranking but not starting. It will start up the second attempt every time. I have the touch and go package. I thought it was because I had low fuel level the first couple times it happened. however, now I've noticed it at 3/4 of a tank and on level ground.
I took it to the dealer and they couldn't find anything. They even said they talked to a tech assist line and they had no known issues of this.
My Camry sometimes won't start and no crank either. When that happens, all the lights on dashboard are on. And, there is no clicking sound, just a soft hissing sound. Battery is newly changed.
I have to leave it for several hours and tried to start the car again, it started without any problem. Or try to jump it, it would start too. What is the problem?
Went to start my '11 - -maybe still w/ original battery...made a chatter noise and now no crank - -no start. Is this the battery dead ? I'd even guess maybe the starter's stuck ? I've got it on a slow charge... I had the ' Maint Req.' lite on- - thought it was for an oil change ?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2005 3.0 front wheel drive Escape that the kids normally drive and recently had a crank over/ no start condition in my driveway. I replaced the fuel pump about three months ago. Turned the key and couldn't hear the fuel pump so I proceeded to check the fuses and relays and everything seemed good. I also checked the inertia switch and it seemed ok as well.
I then checked for power at the harness right above the fuel tank and I had 12 volts on two of the four wires so I assume that I have power to my pump. I then took out the pump and had it replaced it under warranty. So I proceeded to install the new pump and I thought that I would hook the harness back up and just turn on the key for a second to be sure that the new pump is working and there was nothing to be heard. Looking for a wiring diagram/colors of the fuel pump?
Brother in law company 6.0 died on him in his driveway after a night of plowing
It stalled out, his boss sent out a "tech" and he said it doesn't have "nearly enough" oil pressure
Now I want to further diagnose the truck myself with my scan gauge II but haven't used it for that......yet......
What should I check for IPR pressure psi or %?
I know I can get ICP pressure in PSI on my SCT x4 not sure about the Scan Gauge......
I assume a blown IPR or failed STC fitting......
Truck is a 2005..... I can figure out the scan gauge I just need to know what to look for for an idea of a blown IPR or STC or ICP.
05 6.0 will only start if I cycle the glow plugs, crank 3 seconds shut off glow again then it starts immediately. If I try to glow 2 cycles with out cranking it won't start either. When he truck is hot it seams to start easier. I have new batteries new alternator running 5-40 synth. New glow plug control module. It does it hot or cold weather.
View 7 RepliesI have a 05 with 100K miles on it. I had the HPOP, FICM and EGR delete do about a year ago. Went to start the truck pressed the pedal and it died and won't start. It dies once while driving about a week ago but restarted. I have a Snap-on scanner for the data. FICM tested good and getting fuel to secondary filter. Batteries and filters are new with about 2K miles on them. Would this data point to a bad IPR?
ICP V KOEO = .25V
ICP V Cranking = .28V
ICP_DSRD 1251 PSI Cranking
IPR Duty 15% KOEO
IPR Duty Cranking 85%
I have a 2005 Ranger 4x4 4.0 automatic with an intermittent no crank, no start issue, So the problem has been getting worse over time This time when it wont start, all of the lights work, the radio, the fan, etc. They are all bright and functioning.
The battery is brand new and showing 12.9v at rest. (Yes, I have tried to jump it and charge it to be sure). However, The gauges are not functioning when the key is turned. I have no click, the lights don't dim, nothing happens when I turn the key.
Another neat point, if I turn on a directional with the key on, the relay clicks so rapidly that it won't even flash the lights. I am assuming that it is a ground someplace, but I dont even know where to start on this truck.
Car is a 2001 Toyota Prius. Car had a dead 12V battery but I had a portable jump pack I always use to start the car no problem. I had the car in the shop to do some body repairs and I'm guessing the mechanic might have reversed jump the car as the car was working just fine (by jumping) before I took it in to the body shop.
- When I jump the car, the HV battery will crank the motor for about a second, the engine tries to start but stutters out.
- When I try to jump again after 10 seconds, the HV battery will crank the motor but now just a split second and the engine barely cranks and doesn't start.
- When I try to jump again after 10 more seconds, the HV battery will NOT crank the motor and nothing turns.
The car dash screen shows that the HV battery is at about 25%. There is no engine codes.
What I've done:
- Replaced the main 100A fuse by the 12V battery
- Disconnected and reconnected the main HV battery flip switch
I'm down to my last option as the Toyota dealership was useless and wanted to charge for a new 12V battery and diagnostics before looking at why the engine won't crank.
2005 Ford F250 6.0 Diesel (bought new). Never had a problem with the engine until about a month ago. Engine has 220,000 miles on it. Oil and filters changed regularly. Ran low (not out) of fuel, started sputtering badly but not killing. Filled up with diesel. Ran better, managed to get home. The next day it was dead. Crank but no start. Since then I have done the following (not in order):
- Changed EGR
- Changed ICP
- Changed IPR
- Changed the STC fitting
- Changed all seals in the HPOP
- Changed glow plugs and harnesses
- Tested each fuse and relay
- Installed new batteries
- FICM tested 48V
- Changed motor oil and filter
- Changed both fuel filters
- Checked for water in the fuel
- Purged air from fuel line
- Replaced dummy plugs
- No codes
- Prayed the rosary
One month later, still crank no start. Thinking about using it as target practice with the AR-15.
2005 F250 To date this has been done, some at different times. ARP studs, OEM head gaskets, heads machined, oil cooler replaced, new fuel injectors, reman'd HPOP w/IPR with STC fitting, EGR delete, 4" turbo back and SCT x3 tow tune.
We originally had a leaking injector that gave us issues (Thread is here) but we pulled the cab and went through the motor, installed studs etcetera.
After the rebuild we ran it approximately 1K miles and it ran great, then one day towing a '65 C10 on a 20' flatbed it shut off while cruising down the road, crank no start on the side of the road, scanguage showed ICP was too low to fire the injectors so we towed it back to the shop and replaced the HPOP, still low ICP.
What's the next step of diagnosis? I'll have ICP numbers by Monday, it's been several months since all this happened and I'm currently out of state trying to diagnose. If i remember correctly the ICP numbers were low teens or 20's. I don't know for sure but I don't think we replace the standpipe or dummy plugs when we had it apart, could that be the issue?
My thoughts are either we have a leak in the high-pressure side or low pressure isn't supplying enough oil to build pressure, so in theory, we would want to check low pressure first, correct?
For about two weeks, my Blazer would crank but not start on the first turn of the key. After a couple of tries it would start and as long as the engine was not off for more than a few hours, it would start again with no problem. While driving however, the engine would periodically "hitch" like it was missing a spark, or not getting any gas. As of last weekend, the engine will not catch at all, and a light on the dash shows "low fuel" even though the tank is almost full.
Spoke to a mechanic who (without looking at it) diagnosed a fuel pump problem at a cost of around $1,000. Is there any other problem which may cause this issue? I have very limited mechanical ability, and cannot pull the spark plugs to test them, as they seem to be buried in the lower half of the engine block.
2001 1.6 Accent ... The check engine light is not coming on when i put the key in and turn it...i checked ecu fuses they are all fine ...
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