Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - Vibration Through The Gas Pedal / Steering Wheel And Seat When Driving
Dec 29, 2011
I have driven my Hyundai for 79,880 miles. I brought it new in 2005. I had the front brakes replaced and afterwards felt a vibration through the gas pedal, steering wheel and seat. Both driver side and passenger sides had the vibration. You can feel the vibration at any speed. Sometimes it feels as if there is a part spinning unbalanced and bumping against something.
I replaced both front wheel bearings, both CV joints, and both front struts. These were all the original parts and they were all in need of replacement. The struts were so bad that they had no gas to resist a simple push at one end. I had all four tires high speed balanced.
I lifted the front end and stepped on the gas to get the tires going. I did it at high speed and my friend tells me he could hear a rattling of what he thinks are steel ball bearings coming from the drivers side of the automatic transmission. He thinks that there may be a bad bearing(s) in the transmission. I simply don't know. What the cause of the vibration might be? Could my warranty cover the repair?
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This started several months ago. I can feel it in steering wheel & gas pedal. I thought it was the tires so I put 2 new tires on front, but no change.Tires had no unusual wear. Happens at any speed, worse around curves, left or right. Worse when temp is colder, 55 degrees, better at 75 degrees. Not affected by braking or in coasting neutral. No problem with steering or pulling.
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109,000 miles car shakes thru the steering wheel and the seat on highway driving from appox 60 mph and higher. Needed new tires anyways thought it was tire balance problem. Put on 4 new tires, road force balanced all four still shaking. Road force again, still shaking. So I am ruling out the tires. All front end parts are fine, rear end parts are fine. Struts have 30000 miles on them, but the strut bearings are shot. Alignment was done 12000 miles ago when I replaced the outer tie rod ends on both sides up front. Not getting any bearing noises with car on hoist and hand turning the wheels. Where to go next? I need to change the strut bearings out and do another alignment. Any thing else to look at? Just trying to get the ride back.
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I have a problem with my 2005 hyundai elantra 2.0L . Every time I turn it on and try to drive, the steering wheel is kinda jammed. It wouldn't turn all the way. And I can here some noises from the hood as i turn it more. Sometimes i have to wait for it till it heats up a little then the steering could turn smoothly. Some guy told me it could be one of the belts (which i don't know which one).
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I bought this 2005 Hyundai Elantra with 68 000 kilometers, and it had some nasty steering wheel wobble at about 80km/h and what felt like right rear brake issues. We got 4 awesome tires put on and balanced and that took care of most of the wobble/shaking, and took care of most of the wobble in the right rear wheel. The other day we pulled the rear wheels to do the brakes (pads and rotors), but the rotors we got didn't come with the holes for the retaining screws but one of the guys at auto value said it would be fine, and if not, then take them back.
We put those rotors on and then bolted the wheels back on and i didn't even get down my driveway since the rotor in the right rear wheel felt like it was fumbling around in there. jacked the car up and there was play in both rear rotors but much more so in the right rear one. the rims that came with the car are 15" honda rims with a 4 bolt pattern so could that be the issue that these rims don't bolt up properly over the hubs? i thought that 4 bolt rims for honda, kia, hyundai, and others had the same bolt pattern? am i missing something here? or should i just find new rotors with the retaining holes?
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I've been experiencing a regular feeling of the engine "missing" in my seat when in Drive, stopped at a light. I listen carefully and it just doesn't sound super smooth like my wife's Acura. The Acura has over 160k miles on it...so getting this from a new car is worrisome. The vibration is in the seat and steering wheel.
I tried different gas, higher octane, different brands - no change.
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I have a stunning r32 2004 with an hpa ft450 turbo fitted,(also porsche cayenne discs , calipers , adj suspension , milltek high flow cat , strut brace front and rear, seat splitter, ) all receipts and work carried out bought car like this. On cold it runs good and boost is good , but as soon as its warm (about 4 mins ) in 3rd 4th 5th 6th gear when the boost kicks in I get a biggish vibration through acc pedal and steering wheel, but nothing untoward before boost apart from a slight misfire on idle, the car is running rich and using plenty fuel, the turbo was fitted at 18k and now done 23k, so its very low milage.
I have fitted 3 coil packs, new plugs (old ones were black), I have been told, that the car goes through o2 sensors for fun, just cant understand why, i have no lights coming on , and going for vagcom diagnostic in the morning.
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I bought a 2010 toyota camry se. I have the most annoying vibration in the steering wheel, seats, gas pedal. Have taken it to several places, including a Toyota dealer.. They seem to not be able to find the cause. I've had wheels checked, balance, aligned, rotated. There is also an annoying clonking noise coming from the front passenger assembly. It's very sporadic as in only goes away when trying to have a technician hear it.
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2009 FX4... Every once in a while, I'll feel a vibration in the gas pedal. It happens under acceleration, and typically if I'm pushing down and it has not downshifted yet. Then once it downshifts the vibration is less noticeable.
I have had the mechtronic unit replaced due to harsh shifting and the vibration was there before and after that was replaced. The drive shaft was also replaced due to a click/clinking noise and the vibration was there before and after as well. The harsh shifting and clinking noise was fixed with those repairs, but the vibration is still there. I notice it more when I am towing.
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I'm wondering if I have a problem or if its a matter of not used to this new "fly-by-wire" steering system cars are going to.
When I put my hands at 11 and 2 on the steering wheel and slowly slide my hands down to 9 and 3, the steering wheel has a shimmy/vibration. Doesn't happen while driving, turning, or anything. Is this normal? I could get the camcorder out and do a small video of it.
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I am on my 4th Avalon and have loved everyone. This newest one, however is experiencing a slight steering wheel vibration intermittently at 70-75 mph. It also does not seem to "track well" at this speed. I have to work harder to drive this than my wife's Suburban.
Neither one of these problems is "severe", but aggravating and worrisome. The vehicle has about 2000 miles on it. I am taking it to the dealer tomorrow and my fear is all he will do is the balance the tires (and maybe that will do it), but I am afraid the "tracking" issue may be more involved. It almost seems like there is a slight amount of play in the steering wheel.
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Problem: when driving at 65 mph and above, the steering wheel will start to shimmy and shake. if i let off the gas, and let it decelerate under 65 and then get on the gas again it will sometimes go away but it shakes most of the time.
What I've done so far: replaced front and rear motor mounts (they were indeed bad, but it still shakes when driving 65 and up AND it also makes the car shake like crazy at idle). I've checked the steering linkages and the rack mounts. all are good. I did however spot that the outer boots on the CV axles are broken. i haven't had any tell tale clicking when turning sounds yet. The tires were balanced a few months ago. i should probably rotate the tires and see if it follows.
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I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS Sedan, 6 speed manual with 65,000 miles. I recently bought a new set of wheels for my car brand new. I had tires mounted and balanced. I brought them home and installed them on my car myself and had no problems, this was about 3 thousand miles ago (1 month). 2 days ago I went down for my first oil change and tire rotation since getting the new wheels. The technician who I trusted suggested I balance the two rear wheels when bringing them to the front, so I went ahead and let them do that.
When I left the shop I noticed the front left wheel had a "thumping" sound when driving, as if there was a large nail hitting the ground every time the wheel went around. You can feel this in the floor. I just went back today to the shop to have them look at it and they too can feel it when driving. They put my car on the lift and while in gear they said they noticed the left front CV joint turning but it was not straight. It wobbled a bit. They showed me the play in it when pushing it up and down and said that it was not normal.
They were not trying to get me to replace them, the mechanics actually suggested I went to the Hyundai dealer to have it looked at. I'm replacing my front brakes tonight and I will be rotating that tire to the rear again to see what happens. I'm just curious as whether the play we noticed in the CV joint is normal, if they could have screwed up the tire balance somehow (which they did not recheck) or if the CV wobble could possibly be normal. I'll be switching that tire to the back and if the vibration is in the rear it will be going back down to Monro muffler and brake. If the problem remains in the front I will be visiting the Hyundai dealer.
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Been really busy lately and havent worked on car. Any way it's been about two months after lowering on hpa shs coils. Rides great but I have had the two following observations.
1. When I'm on the freeway at above 65 a big increase in vibration mostly in the steering wheel. I also rotated tires front to back as they are directional at the same time.
2. When I first set off there is a clunking/adjusting sound from the front right side. It seems to be connected with the rotation of the tire. Goes away as I drive down the block.
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Vibration in steering started in January soon after full brake job, new rotors, etc. on my 05AvyXLS. Pronounced between 60 and 70 mph where steering wheel shakes in my hands. Had tires balanced and rotated 3 or 4 times, alignment, checked tires/treadwear, in 3 diff stores (incl dealer)...same problem. Just bought new set of tires today, thought prob would go away since all pros thought was a tire prob...negative. Same prob, only even more pronounced!
I'm thinking I have a tie rod, wheel bearing, strut/shock, or some kinda suspension prob? I've spent considerable dough with exactly the same prob. And could there have been something related to the brake/rotor job? My pro says no, unless there is vibration when I brake, which there is not! Vibration occurs b/t 60 and 70, whether I'm in the gas or not, and does not happen when braking! What can this be??
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Picked up another C today cause we wanted the 3 model and got a 2012 with 29K, traded in the other C.
Driving home into a very strong wind I felt vibration in the wheel at 70-75Mph, it seemed to get less when slower.
Can winds cause vibration?
Also can overinflated tires or underinflated cause that vibration too? I didnt check it at the dealer as I thought they would have and its too dark now to check.
One last thing, when they rotate tires, do they also balance them?
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My 05 will pass the 230K mile mark sometime in the next week. I have been tolerating a high velocity (65+mph ) vibration [for about the past six months - maybe more] that I can feel through the steering wheel. When driving at 55 mph, there's no vibration whatsoever.
It could be that the Ecopia 422s that were installed two years ago are causing it or it could be a bad front wheel bearing. The Ecopias have 45k miles on them and realistically don't have much more life left in them (60K tread wear warranty). A couple of them are a little more than 1/32 from the wear bars.
To those who replaced their front wheel bearing(s). What were the symptoms up to the time of replacement? Was it something you could sense when driving or was it found during an inspection with the front end raised?
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In the past month our 2005 Subaru Legacy has had a vibration(intermittently) where the steering wheel going slightly back/forth 60-70 MPH. I understand a wheel balance can cause this. However intermittently does not make sense. My wife simply speeds up to 80MPH and it disappeared or less than 60. Any clues?
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I have a 2003 elantra with 90 k when I'm. Driving the car it just stalls out the car never turns off it just idles and won't respond to gas pedal. I have to put the car in neutral accelerate and drop back to drive to keep driving it. Happens at all times car at normal heat , at regular driving speeds in the street any.
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The problem started a few months back and has been getting progressively worse. Unfortunately for my Prius I have been in the middle of remodeling my house so I have been neglecting the problem and now it is time to face it before something bad happens.
So, It is a 2005 Prius with 189k+ miles on it. I started getting a vibration/clunking noise in the front end while driving with the steering wheel centered. It also turns on the traction control alert and sometimes slows the car down when turning and the only way to get it to stop is to turn the wheel the other way. It started only happening at higher speeds of 65mph+ but progressively got worse until it now happens as low as 35mph.
I thought that it was the drive axle as it seemed to be characteristic of that with the vibration (When the problem first started it seemed to only happen when accelerating, but now happens all the time), so I replaced the LH drive axle as well as the sway bar tie rod (The joints were very worn and loose), but the problem still exists.
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My 2001 Jetta 2.0L steering wheel vibrates at about 60+ mph and when I turn the steering wheel to the right into a turn, the vibration intensifies. I've changed and rotated my tires, but to no avail, the problem persists. I have yet to take this problem to a mechanic until I've found out what the issue actually is, as I do not want to get jerked around. I've looked around on various VW blogs, and from what I can gather, the CV joint needs to be replaced/repaired.
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