Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - Transmission With Harsh Upshifting When Driving
Dec 2, 2011
I have a 2005 Elantra where my transmission went. The tranny had a harsh upshifting when driving, also had it in the shop four times because it was hard to get into Park or Drive. Shop said they never could find a problem.. Did some checking on internet, the Accent and Elantra shared the same transmission I believe, and found a TSB describing trans axle solenoid problems from 1999 to 2006. I am going to fight this as I don't think I should have to pay for a factory defect.
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2011 Corolla S 1.8L 4 speed auto
Been having a harsh 1-2 upshift issue lately. Had my car into a transmission shop as the dealer keeps saying nothing is wrong and the shop told me they got a p1603 code. Is this a problem and what should I do?
The mechanics writing was bad so I am unsure if it is p1603 or p1e03. I have tried looking up the code and it is a variety of things. One says engine stall history? All I remember doing recently is disconnecting the battery to try and reset the transmission computer and after the first start the car stalled then it started fine.
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I have been having phantom automatic transmission problems with occasional harsh shifting, mostly up shifting through all the gears but sometimes downshifting. This problem started in May 2014, lasted off and on for several days, and then stopped occurring. There had been a few instances of small drops of fluid on my carport but nothing consistent. Then in September, the problem started again on the same basis: on/off again, nothing consistent. When I couldn’t locate the port under the hood to check the transmission fluid, I took the Elantra to the Boise Hyundai dealership to ask where the trans fluid port was located. My service rep told me that there was no port in the new vehicles and that the transmission fluid was not changed until 100,000 miles at a cost of $400. The service technicians could not find anything wrong with the vehicle when they hooked it up to their computers to check the error codes, and the vehicles would not perform the harsh shifting when they test drove the car. The techs re-set the adaptive points and I was sent on my way. A few days later, the harsh shifting started again on and off, phantom problem. I took the Elantra back into the dealership and told them to keep it for as many days as it took for a tech to drive it home and start it cold in the morning. The transmission did not perform the harsh shifting for the 80 miles the tech drove it home and back to the dealership for three days.
After driving the Elantra another week, the phantom trans problems re-occurred. After surfing the web and checking the Hyundai Customer Forum, all I could find was problems with 2010 Elantra transmissions and my service tech admitted that Hyundai had replaced thousands of 2010 transmissions.
Through the dealership I opened a Case File for my transmission problems because there is something definitely wrong with the vehicle and I want a new transmission, and will press my case to the max. I’ve kept a log since September, noted daily temperatures, and times the trans has performed harsh shifting. I’ve kept the problem to a minimum by letting the car warm up for about 5 minutes and will only drive it when the tachometer needle rests on 1,000 rpms.
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I have a 2007 Sonata, performs flawlessly, my wife's 2011 Elantra, not so much. We've had issues with her car from the get-go. The Elantra has 32k miles on it. About 15k miles ago the dealership reprogrammed the transmission. Problem seemed to be fixed, to a degree. Hiccup here and there.
Last night when my wife came home from work she said it was shifting hard. I just shrugged it off. We came in to town, about 5 miles down a busy highway. 55mph, no problems.
Car sat for a couple hours. We got in the car to come home, buttery smooth first few shifts to 35 mph. Car had probably been running about 5 minutes. Pulled out onto highway, shifts 1-2 fine, 2-3 holds about 2500 rpms, won't shift, won't shift, BAM! repeat 3-4, and I believe 4-5. I was so shaken up I didn't count. I pulled off and took the back road and it continued to do it for about 3 miles. It almost feels like the torque converter is locking up. Someone mentioned a transmission temperature sensor, but that is only in Sonata's, no one has seen it in an Elantra.
By the time we got home, the car was shifting normal. This morning I get in it because now my wife won't drive it, and it works fine. Works fine all day.
Go into dealership, they say everything is fine, they called Hyundai, they say nothing wrong, come back when you have a problem.
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I bought a 02 elantra gt for a good price and had about 120,000 miles. The car had after market 18" rims on it and i planned to take them off since i don't like rims anyway and the rims were making the car bouncy and didn't ride right. So i got the recommended tire size for an elantra which is 195-60r-15 and put them on. while taking off the rims I realized that there was some clamps on the suspension and I didn't know what they did so i just took them off as well. What i have noticed is that the ride is very very harsh. I feel every bump on the road which you kind of get used to but when a bad bump comes on the road it feels like the car just got dropped from the air, its literally bad and i cant return the car since i bought it "as is". At first i thought it was the tires or tire pressure but this seems way worse just to be tire pressure. I just want a smooth riding car. The car seems lower like there isn't much space between the top of the tire and the hood of the car.
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I have a 04 elantra and its driving me up a wall. when driving first thing till the trans warms up it has a harsh shift between 2-3 gears and its rough like all the motor mounts are bad and you dump a clutch. i have tried the tsb reflash and the adaptive learn still did it, Replaced the trans twice reflashed the computer after the last trans and redid the adaptive learn twice fist time at cold temp then redid the learn with the trans at full operating temp.
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I have driven my Hyundai for 79,880 miles. I brought it new in 2005. I had the front brakes replaced and afterwards felt a vibration through the gas pedal, steering wheel and seat. Both driver side and passenger sides had the vibration. You can feel the vibration at any speed. Sometimes it feels as if there is a part spinning unbalanced and bumping against something.
I replaced both front wheel bearings, both CV joints, and both front struts. These were all the original parts and they were all in need of replacement. The struts were so bad that they had no gas to resist a simple push at one end. I had all four tires high speed balanced.
I lifted the front end and stepped on the gas to get the tires going. I did it at high speed and my friend tells me he could hear a rattling of what he thinks are steel ball bearings coming from the drivers side of the automatic transmission. He thinks that there may be a bad bearing(s) in the transmission. I simply don't know. What the cause of the vibration might be? Could my warranty cover the repair?
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O.K. first of all I had an issue with the Odometer pointer being jumpy. Sometimes it wouldn't move. Now I replaced the input sensor at first and did not fix the problem. I replaced the output sensor and fixed it. "BUT", Now, I have a problem with the transmission shifting. I get an engine light while driving and the 2nd gear seems to take its time shifting and when it does it make the left side drive shaft kick in hard and spends my wheel to a screeching effect. Plus a thump on the transmission. I rechecked the sensor for connection and reinstalled. Drove the car still have the same issue?
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When I am going about 55 my transmission sometimes starts downshifting and then up shifting again for no reason.
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I have a 2012 2.5 with auto trans and am experiencing a problem. After coming to a stop and easing pressure from the brake pedal, if you re-apply pressure you feel a harsh engagement of the transmission, feels like you put it in neutral and then back in drive. Sometimes it will do it while stopped with no change in pedal pressure and feels like someone rear ended you.
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I just bought a 2010 Santa Fe. All seems fine except that when the car is cold it goes into R harshly (with a bump and a small delay)and also is a little bit irregular in normal gear. I'm used to have cars with transmission problems unfortunately and happily it's nothing like that but I'd really finally like to have a vehicle without any tranny issues.
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2011 Elantra with phantom harsh shifting problem. Yesterday the Elantra began surging and nearly stalling out on acceleration after about 20-25 minutes driving. I was barely able to drive the car home; when pulling into the garage, there was a strong smell of something hot. Temperature gauge indicated normal engine temp; no icons lit on the dash indicating a problem. Surging/nearly stalling and overheating problem and is it related to other Elantra engine, trans, fuel system-related problems? I can’t find anything specific while web surfing today for some clues!
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I bought a 2010 GLS 4cyl and within the first week started having shifting issues. Initially it was only when it was colder than 30 degrees outside and would only shift harshly between 1st and 2nd. Once I had driven a few miles and warmed the car up, everything was OK. It's still an intermittent issue, but now it will do it when outside morning temps are in the 50's and 60's.
I've read the TSB for 6cyl 09's and saw a post in the Santa Fe forum that sounded identical, so at least I'm not the first to experience this.
I took it back to the dealership knowing it probably would not shift badly when they test drove it because we had run out of cold mornings. I picked the car up after they reset adaptive learning and said there were no updates available for the computer. (And also being told I had bad gas in the car. Another story for another time...)
Until it starts doing it at fairly regular intervals, there isn't any use taking back to the dealership as it's very inconvenient for me to get there.
I checked the link that had TSB's and didn't see anything for the 2010's. Also, is there any place where I could check and see when software updates come out and what issues are addressed?
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I have the 2000 passat 1.8L 4 cylinder with the tiptronic shifting. The car has been shifting less smoothly both upshifting and down. I have noticed that if you are going fast and slow suddenly, say for a light and the downshifting does not go smoothly the vehicle can lurch/jump even if the brakes are firmly applied.
What may be causing this issue. I recently sold my MKIV which was a great car and we are now starting to have small problems with this passat with 104,000 miles on it. It does not intuitively feel that the tranny is worked over yet, but I would like to avoid any expensive repairs/replacement. I have done everything from suspension, door replacement, clutches and timing belts on other vw's. So I am hoping to tackle this myself.
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Noticed cup holders above the transmission a little warm. I have a 2011 hyundai sonata se; when I drove a regular sonata I didn't notice the cup holder getting as warm as my car.
I have also started to notice that the transmission shifts into 1st gear a little harsh vs the rental sonata as well. I did do my own transmission drain and fill with Amsoil fluid. Why its shifting like this?
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I installed a Morimoto Elite HID system in my car. Testing it out I noticed that while the car is off, but the ignition is on, the lights work flawlessly. Once I started the car up the driver's side light flickers and there's a harsh buzzing noise coming from the relay.
You may be thinking to yourself, "This is an easy one, he just needs a capacitor" ....but the thing is, I also installed a capacitor with it. The power from the stock headlights plugs into a cable that runs through the rubber flange (that fills the hole you make in the back of the housing cap) directly into the capacitor. The output from the capacitor then runs into the relay. I believe this is the correct setup.
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I've taken my 2005 Hyundai Elantra (95K miles) to the dealer twice to be serviced because it is jerking while driving - mostly in low speeds, but sometimes even in fifth gear - and occasionally stalls while stopped. the jerking happens while driving, not when the clutch is engaged. The first time I took it to the dealer they said it was a loose battery cable. After about a week the problem started again.
I took the car again to the dealer and they did something like rearrange the ignition coils. It drove better on the test drive and for the past several weeks I have had no problems, but just today the same problem started again. It seems to happen more when the AC is on, but has happened when the AC is off. The dealer also told me the clutch is very worn and that we should have it replaced - I'm hesitant to spend the money replacing the clutch if it's not causing the jerking, i.e., if there is something else wrong with the car. Would a worn clutch cause these symptoms?
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Yesterday my 2013 R-Line started downshifting in a harsh manner. Vehicle has been serviced regularly every 8,000 km in accordance with the VW Maintenance Schedule as outlined in the Owners Manual. It is also completely stock and daily driven (mostly highway).
Today I took it to have it checked out as I suspected the TCU might be the problem. As it turns out they said that the entire Transmission needs to be replaced. I have 108,000 km on the odometer now so the Canadian Warranty has expired (100,000km)
I was absolutely gutted as it seems absurd that an automatic transmission would fail with relatively low mileage. My old MkV GTI with a DSG is still going with over 300,000 km.
This is my second Tiguan in the past 3 years. I have also owned a MkV GTI and also currently own a Mk6 Golf R. I have always been good to all of my VWs(maintenance) and they have always been reliable until now.
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4 months ago we bought a 2010 SF V6 with 70,000kms - we immediately noticed this very harsh 2-3 transmission sift under light to moderate throttle. Mostly in parking lots or accelerating slowly. Took it to the dealer and the flashed the ECU - - - this made the issue a little better.
I was reading around the net - the problem seems to be associated with sticky solenoids. I decided to change the fluid < 4 drain and fills > to Maxlife and I added a product from a company called Lubegard, this completely eliminated any harsh shifting at any speed or throttle.
I dont know if it was the additive or the 90% new fluid - however if the solenoids are the cause - keeping them properly lubricated seems like a good idea.
I will also be installing a Magnefine inline transmission filter as well. I have used them in the past with great results.
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So I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra, it is a manual transmission. I was having problems with the rpm's going higher than normal at random times while driving, then I noticed that the fluid in the clutch fluid reservoir was low. I determined that to be caused by a bad clutch slave cylinder that was leaking fluid. So I replaced the slave cylinder and that seemed to fix the problem, but now I am noticing that the car lacks power when I'm going up any sort of hill or trying to accelerate faster than normal.
When going up a hill the rpm's will go up and I have a hard time maintaining my speed. When trying to accelerate fast, as in pulling out in front of someone or similar situations, the car seems sluggish and it seems like I need to shift because the rpm's are high but I'm not going fast enough yet for the next gear.
This sounds like it would be some sort of problem-related to the clutch going bad or could the leaking slave cylinder have damaged the clutch. Or does this sound like more of a different problem, maybe something with a fuel filter or something?
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I have a 91 Miata Auto. I bought it from someone that (I think!) never drain auto trans fluid during its 145K mile life. So last year I replaced all the gaskets/filters and tuned up the car. It runs fine except shifting harsh in cold weather. I have to mention that it seem to have no power and goes very slow on first few minutes.I used a pump to suck trans fluid out. It was so dark (even I dropped the trans pan and replaced filter/gasket). Then I pumped Lucas trans fix fluid in and it seem to improve. What should I do more to reduce the harsh shift condition in cold weather? Or is there a booster module need to be replaced?
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