Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - Passenger Power Window Will Not Go Down
May 3, 2015
I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra and the passenger, electric window will not go down. Took it apart and pulled the motor off and tested it. The gear works for going up, but not down. I tested the wires and the switch. Everything was getting power. The power from the switch to the motor was checking out to, but the motor won't turn when the button is pushed to go down. I thought maybe the motor was bad, so I wanted to make sure.
I pulled the motor off the rear door and hooked the front motor onto the wire harness for the back door and tried it. The motor worked up and down. Now I'm thinking it might be the switch, even though the power was going to the right places when I tested it. Well, since I knew the back door switch worked, I took that switch and clipped it into the front door's harness and tried it. It worked going up, but didn't work going down. Same as the other switch. Can that wire harness be bad, even though it has power going from the switch to the motor for going down?
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2001 GLS... Noticed the passenger front door window outer weather strip is loose at one end. Looks like a "tab" on the strip fits into a slot on the door panel. Since the tab is smaller that the slot, is there some kind of clip or something that holds the weatherstrip tab securely in the slot?
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Just had the driver window glass replaced. This is the second repair as the first guy just glued it and I think he partially detached the outer window seal. Is there a way to glue it back or does it need to be replaced? Is that something I could do. Now that I've seen videos, I could have replaced the window glass myself.....
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Car Make/Model: 2001 Hyundai Elantra
So, in order to access the parking garage at work, free of charge, I MUST swipe my ID badge upon entering and exiting. That requires lowering my driver window (front left window) and extending my hand out. So, I pressed the switch downward to roll the window down, and I heard a small pop or click and all the sudden the switch was stuck in the downward position and my window would just roll all the way down. I would flick it upward, the window goes up, but then it retakes its downward position. I have to apply my window lock to keep it upward and sometimes I have to hold the switch up and immediately turn my car off to keep the window from rolling back down.
The window rolls up and down like it normally would. There is no slowness or delay.....the motion still seems pretty smooth.
Questions:
What are the possible problems and solutions?
How much to fix it, if I choose to?
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My wife has a 2005 Santa Fe with the 4 button window contol, and as of the other day her driver's side window won't roll down. However all the other windows will roll up and down from the switch. Is it likely that her side has quit at the switch from being used the most, or would it be a problem with something else on the driver's side since all the other switches work?
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I am the original owner of a 2005 Elantra. It has 89,000 miles on it. I go to start it and the power comes on but it will not crank. It will start if I jump it though. I checked the battery. It is a year old and fine. We cleaned all of the leads and cable leads to the battery. It was fine for a couple of days, but having a problem again this morning. The cold may be a factor.
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My power steering seems to have sprung a leak. There is quite a bit of fluid below the passenger side of the steering rack. The leak seems to be right below where the power steering hose comes down off the pump, gets secured to the chassis and changes to metal line from rubber. The metal line then goes into an L bend and is routed towards the driver side right where the leak apparently is.
I haven't had a chance to have a good look, as it was 10:30 at night when I parked it and looked (12km of careful city driving since it started to act up)
Is this a high pressure or return line?
The leak seems to be forward of the steering rack, so hopefully I wont have to replace it.
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Driving in sunny so cal yesterday never a problem with the car just an oxygen sensor- I was cruising along at 75 and all of a sudden the oil light comes on - immediate loss of power and i pull over to the side of the road and shut it down. try to restart and it just clicks.....tugged on the crank through the wheel well and it will not budge...oil is ok and plugs were pulled and they seem fine....oil pump...fuel pump....starter hopefully something simple and inexpensive I hope.....what is the difficulty in changing out the starter and could this be the issue?
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I have a 2005 Elantra GT with just over 52000 miles on it. A few months ago I started to have issues with the fob lock button not working. It came and went, usually not working when the weather was very cold. But the power locks triggered from the driver's side door still worked, and the fob could still be used to arm the alarm. Unlocking via the fob worked.
For the past couple of weeks, neither the fob or the drivers side power lock button have been working, and I locked all of the doors and hatch manually. After the last door was locked, the hazards would flash indicating the car was locked, and I could still use the fob to arm the alarm. Unlocking via the fob worked.
As of a few days ago, the hazards no longer flash when all of the doors are locked, and the fob cannot arm the alarm. The fob still unlocks the doors just fine, though.
I've checked the fuse for the power locks in the interior panel (it's good). Using either the fob or the driver's side door lock control causes a clicking noise from the dashboard, but nothing else happens. The driver's side door latch cable was replaced about a month ago.
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I have a problem with my passenger automatic window in my 2009 Elantra, It able to go up & down from the switch on the driver's door, but from the passenger side the electric window will not go down.
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So my 2005 elantra 2.0 CVVT has 189k on it 1 owner.
I got a check engine light one day and i read the code. Came out to be 02 sensor code bank 1. So i order a denso o2 sensor and replace the part.
I drive the car for about 400 miles to reset monitors and get a check engine light. P0420 cat code. At this point the car drives with normal power and pickup.
1000 miles later my car has lost power. It doesn't have any get up or power when driving normally. I take the car to my local shop and they recommend replacing front cat. I replace front cat, same issue.
At this point i'm not sure if it is a transmission problem or maybe my 2nd cat or something else?
On the freeway if I put my pedal to the ground the rpms surge up very very slowly,
Also seems like the car doesn't shift till around 4k rpms, seems like previously it shifted sooner.
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My driver side window switch as stopped controlling my passenger window. It used to at least lower it and then not raise it but now it won't do anything. However the window rolls down and comes up just fine if I use the passenger side switch. Does this sound like a bad switch in the driver side? This is a 2010 Elantra.
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My girlfriend has a 2005 Accent and recently we went to go drive it and the battery was dead. I noticed that when we shut the car off the black LCD Odometer display was staying on the dash with the power shut off and no key in the ignition. I figured out which Fuse it was under the hood and pulled it. The odometer lcd turned off and we also lost all of the interior lights.. When I ran the car with the fuse pulled the Odometer LCD would display normally but somehow the battery is still managing to drain even with the Fuse pulled.. Any wiring diagrams for the fuse panel under the hood or if it could be a relay that is still drawing power when the car is shut off..
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I have a 2005 and the passenger window decided to stop working; it is halfway down and won't budge. Is there a seperate fuse for the individual windows? If so where are they?
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2005 Jetta, passenger side window has been falling out of it's track for the past several months. Sometimes a pothole bump is enough to drop it into the door, and if I roll it up all the way, it is unable to be rolled down again unless I squeeze both sides of the window and realign it. if I leave it even a cm less than fully up, it stays on track somehow...
I've read that this is semi-common in Jetta's of this year, and that it's due to a "window clip" that made out of some cheap plastic snapping. I've called pep boy's and NAPA auto parts near me (MA) and both said they don't carry that sort of thing and I need to go to a dealer. The dealers tell me that they won't sell the plastic piece alone, and that I must basically buy the full new module (glass, track, clips, and all the other stuff that I don't need).
Where I might be able to get only the cheap plastic piece by itself, or how I can fix the problem without spending hundreds on a entirely new system?
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About a year ago the passenger side window stopped working. It was not a huge problem and my husband kept telling me he would look at it. Well.......... as of last week none of the windows will work and the drivers side automatic lock button stopped working. I can lock and unlock it with the remote and the passenger lock button works. I just don't know. My husband looked at the wiring in the door joint and took the panel off and everything seemes secure. Also, the cd player is running an error message and I have had problems with the switch. This car is driving me crazy!!!!!!
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My 2013 has developed a rattle. The rear window visor (outside) on passenger side is loose - or loosening up... and rattles a lot when driving, which is very annoying.... Took a quick look to see how this thing is held into place, not quite sure what's best way to take it apart...
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2001 Ranger 4 liter 4 door My driver side window goes up and the electric motor does not stop running when the window reaches its normal upper position. Instead it goes bang-bang-bang until I take my finger off of the switch. I'm guessing there is a limit switch that should disconnect the motor but has failed. The bang-bang (again I'm guessing) probably is some sort of a spring loaded torque limiter to protect the motor. Other than that, the window goes up & down as it normally should. I have no problem digging into the door, except with the window, door lock and outside mirror switches, I don't have a clue regarding how to get the inside door panel off. I know to disconnect the battery 1st.
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2001.5 B5.5 Passat - When I put the passenger front window down it will not come back up via either the passenger door switch OR the drivers main switch. I suspected the driver main switch was bad so I replaced the unit; no difference. It will still open the passenger front window, but not close it.
I have tried the reset procedure of using the key in the door; this will both open and close the window but makes no difference in the operation of the switch on either door; window only goes down and won't come back up. The regulator itself is fine; the window is not sagging, banging as it goes down, binding up, etc. And the window does NOT start to come up and then stop and reverse; it just has no response to the switch input
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I am sure this is pure coincidence but we had to have a new battery put in my wife's '09 Avalon. Later in the day we noticed that the front window switch for the passenger window on the drivers side, does not work. The one on the passenger door works fine so it's not the motor. How difficult are these to replace? BTW, the window lock switch is NOT on.
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When I startup my Passat, sometimes the passenger front window will go down automatically, then neither driver/passenger window switch will bring it up. Only goes up if I lock car from outside with key. Tried to (temporarily) remove fuse for power windows so I can drive to work (it's cold), removed fuse, windows did not operate, but car would not start.
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