Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - Odometer Display Staying On Dash With Power Shut Off And No Key In Ignition
Jul 4, 2015
My girlfriend has a 2005 Accent and recently we went to go drive it and the battery was dead. I noticed that when we shut the car off the black LCD Odometer display was staying on the dash with the power shut off and no key in the ignition. I figured out which Fuse it was under the hood and pulled it. The odometer lcd turned off and we also lost all of the interior lights.. When I ran the car with the fuse pulled the Odometer LCD would display normally but somehow the battery is still managing to drain even with the Fuse pulled.. Any wiring diagrams for the fuse panel under the hood or if it could be a relay that is still drawing power when the car is shut off..
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My girlfriend has a 2005 Accent and recently we went to go drive it and the battery was dead. I noticed that when we shut the car off the black LCD Odometer display was staying on the dash with the power shut off and no key in the ignition. I figured out which Fuse it was under the hood and pulled it. The odometer lcd turned off and we also lost all of the interior lights.. When I ran the car with the fuse pulled the Odometer LCD would display normally but somehow the battery is still managing to drain even with the Fuse pulled.. Any wiring diagrams for the fuse panel under the hood, if it could be a relay that is still drawing power when the car is shut off..
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I have a few issues with my 05 f150 that I need to know how to fix them
-the odometer display flashes on and off, the warmer it is outside the less it stays on
-heater blower doesn't work when the switch is on number one position, works fine on other positions
-power mirrors don't work neither side
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05 v8 5_4. Xlt
Odometer display quit on me. This is the co.pass and temp as well. I have also noticed that when I come to a complete stop and then take off a again, the auto lock feature activates like I had put it in park and then back to drive. Thinking I could have an electrical issue here.
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I have a 2016 Elantra GT with less than 1000 miles on it and I just started coming across an issue yesterday. I have had my ABS and trac light kick off on me and stay lit until I shut the car down, then it will start back up with no issue. I don't have a compatible scanner to pull the codes so I am not sure what in the system is kicking the light.
Its random when happening and I double checked that my wiring was all hooked up properly from the factory on all items included in the circuit. I also checked the wheel bearings just to rule out possibly having a bad one which I would find hard to believe with under 1000 miles on it even if faulty.
Are there any common issues with the ABS, traction, or stability control systems on these cars that people have come across? Obviously I'm under warranty so I'm not worried about getting it fixed.
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My 2005 Elentra GLS, when I use the key remote control and hit the alarm activation button, the alarm goes off and lights flash. And I haven't even opened a door on the vehicle. I am not using the alarm function because of this issue. Is this something I can troubleshoot. Just purchased the car used from a used car dealer.
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Our Elantra never overheats or shows hot on the gauge but every couple months it is a little low on coolant. When I shut it down I sometimes get the sweet antifreeze smell. I see no leaks. Never a spot on the driveway. Just need to add a little. Car has about 80,000 miles. as a matter of annual maintenance I drain and fill the coolant and trans fluid once a year. Hoses are in good shape. The oil is clean and shows now sign of contamination. We Love this little car.
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I parked my truck yesterday and know the odometer display was working. Started truck up this morning and no display. My brake light (idiot light in dash) was slightly illuminated as well. The truck ran fine and when I shut it off and started it back up again, the odometer was still out but the brake light was off. Any thoughts? I saw a you tube video showing a cold solder joint on the back of the dash motherboard. I hate to pull that all apart if there could be something else that is simple.
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My speedometer and odometer are not working, mechanic says it is because of a sensor he took the sensor out and showed it to me and I have pictures of it but can not find it anywhere. Also my car is a 2003 Hyundai elantra GLS
The picture attached is a picture of the sensor. What this sensor is called? Whenever I look up speed sensor or speedometer sensor it shows me something completely different. This one looks like it connects to the transmission too.
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So I just recently got my 2004 Elantra back after 6 months of my dad working on it. The clutch and brakes have been replaced as well as 2 tie rods. The issue now, got it home last night turned it off, removed the key and noticed the radio(aftermarket, came with the car when I bought it) and the clock both stayed on. Called my dad, nothing electrical was touched. What can I do? Is it a fuse? A relay? It has 143xxx miles on it, if that matters
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The malfunction indicator light on my 2004 Hyundai Elantra stays on from the time I start the car and stays on while driving. I know that it needs to be taken to have the code read but I was just wondering what this meant and if it is a serious problem.
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I am the original owner of a 2005 Elantra. It has 89,000 miles on it. I go to start it and the power comes on but it will not crank. It will start if I jump it though. I checked the battery. It is a year old and fine. We cleaned all of the leads and cable leads to the battery. It was fine for a couple of days, but having a problem again this morning. The cold may be a factor.
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra and the passenger, electric window will not go down. Took it apart and pulled the motor off and tested it. The gear works for going up, but not down. I tested the wires and the switch. Everything was getting power. The power from the switch to the motor was checking out to, but the motor won't turn when the button is pushed to go down. I thought maybe the motor was bad, so I wanted to make sure.
I pulled the motor off the rear door and hooked the front motor onto the wire harness for the back door and tried it. The motor worked up and down. Now I'm thinking it might be the switch, even though the power was going to the right places when I tested it. Well, since I knew the back door switch worked, I took that switch and clipped it into the front door's harness and tried it. It worked going up, but didn't work going down. Same as the other switch. Can that wire harness be bad, even though it has power going from the switch to the motor for going down?
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Driving in sunny so cal yesterday never a problem with the car just an oxygen sensor- I was cruising along at 75 and all of a sudden the oil light comes on - immediate loss of power and i pull over to the side of the road and shut it down. try to restart and it just clicks.....tugged on the crank through the wheel well and it will not budge...oil is ok and plugs were pulled and they seem fine....oil pump...fuel pump....starter hopefully something simple and inexpensive I hope.....what is the difficulty in changing out the starter and could this be the issue?
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I have a 2005 Elantra GT with just over 52000 miles on it. A few months ago I started to have issues with the fob lock button not working. It came and went, usually not working when the weather was very cold. But the power locks triggered from the driver's side door still worked, and the fob could still be used to arm the alarm. Unlocking via the fob worked.
For the past couple of weeks, neither the fob or the drivers side power lock button have been working, and I locked all of the doors and hatch manually. After the last door was locked, the hazards would flash indicating the car was locked, and I could still use the fob to arm the alarm. Unlocking via the fob worked.
As of a few days ago, the hazards no longer flash when all of the doors are locked, and the fob cannot arm the alarm. The fob still unlocks the doors just fine, though.
I've checked the fuse for the power locks in the interior panel (it's good). Using either the fob or the driver's side door lock control causes a clicking noise from the dashboard, but nothing else happens. The driver's side door latch cable was replaced about a month ago.
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I've been having a "turn off" problem with my 03 santa fe. After driving it doesn't want to shut off. The switch will be in the off position and it just keeps running. When I put it in Reverse or drive and then turn the switch off it stops. But which should I look at first? The ignition cylinder/key replacement or maybe something in the ignition switch/electrical? The cylinder assembly is over a hundred $$ and the switch is only $25.
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So my 2005 elantra 2.0 CVVT has 189k on it 1 owner.
I got a check engine light one day and i read the code. Came out to be 02 sensor code bank 1. So i order a denso o2 sensor and replace the part.
I drive the car for about 400 miles to reset monitors and get a check engine light. P0420 cat code. At this point the car drives with normal power and pickup.
1000 miles later my car has lost power. It doesn't have any get up or power when driving normally. I take the car to my local shop and they recommend replacing front cat. I replace front cat, same issue.
At this point i'm not sure if it is a transmission problem or maybe my 2nd cat or something else?
On the freeway if I put my pedal to the ground the rpms surge up very very slowly,
Also seems like the car doesn't shift till around 4k rpms, seems like previously it shifted sooner.
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01 Elantra, once warmed up to running temp starts to run like a pig & wont idle, has new plugs/leads.
Funny thing is there is no engine check light, in fact it doesn't even come on for the 6 seconds when the ignition is first turned on at all.
Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.
We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.
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2002 Elantra shut off while driving, interior lights dim when flashers are used...
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2000 PASSAT 1.8t. As u pull out the key out of the ignition key chamber, u should here a click sound. That I believe signals the car that the key has been pulled out of the ignition key chamber. Well I don't hear the click sound anymore when the key is pulled out of the ignition key chamber and as a result, the car thinks the key is still is the ignition chamber, alarm does not work, radio stays on after key is out, I have to manually lock and unlock car. I think the key chamber has a pin that did not set right when I pulled the key out. I think some thing is stuck . Tired spraying WD40 into the key chamber with no results.
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The Problem : The short version of the problem is that, as the description says, the ABS and Brake dash lights will come on for awhile, but then shut off, either why driving or the next time I start my car. The brake fluid level and color seems fine, and I checked the hidden service menu from the control screen, and the computer is not reporting any error codes (though I have not hooked it up to any formal error code reading device).
Problem History : The first I saw this problem was about 4 weeks ago just after I got an oil change at a local Toyota Service Center. They warned me that the lights were on and I should get them looked at (though I had never had an issue with them before). when I started my car after, they were on, but then shut off after about 30 seconds. I did not see them again for a few days, so I assumed it was just something got bumped or whatnot, and was not worried. Later I randomly started my car one morning and they were back on, this time they stayed on for a few minutes before shutting off. It continued to do this randomly, but I never felt any issue with brakes, nor noticed any other problems with the operation.
The first time I saw it come on why driving, was when I was pulling over to the side of the road, and hit a puddle that was deeper than I thought and jerked the shocks a lot. After this the problem started to be more frequent, most noticeably if I park on a hill with the e-brake on.
My Thoughts : I called my Service center, and they wanted 100 bucks for the inspection, and then most likely another couple hundred for the repair. I am not inclined to just dump my money into this without looking it up first, and what I have seen online is that similar cases on other cars have been a faulty abs sensor or some kind of particle in the fluid line. Since I am not seeing any error messages from the computer, nor are the lights consistently on, I am thinking of getting my brakes flushed.
Is there anything I should know about flushing the brake fluid, or should I really take it to a service center. They are asking 130 (plus mostly likely an extra 20 bucks b/c this place always finds little things to tack on) to change the fluid.
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