Its a 2005 Elantra i dont know the sub model, but they said the heat will be working just fine, then out of no where it stops, at first i thought it was the issue's i've seen on here before about a bad blower, but its still blowing it just goes from hot to cold, and then it will shift back again after x amount of time.
View 4 RepliesI recently bought my '05 Elantra from a small dealership and I'm starting to see a problem with it. If I shift into reverse and then go back into drive, the car doesn't go forward at all. I have to mess with the gear shift a bit to get the car moving. I'm pretty sure it's a bad linkage. The dealership I bought it from said it desperately needed motor mounts when they got it so they replaced 2 of them. I'm sure the problems are related. I can't find any information on replacing it myself though.
View 1 RepliesRecently, my dashboard lights stopped working. All of the indicators work like gas light, check engine, etc. I checked every fuse and they seem to be working fine.
I work 45 minutes away and usually drive home at night so I'd love to be able to see my speed again without relying on my GPS.
I have a 2005 Elantra GT with just over 52000 miles on it. A few months ago I started to have issues with the fob lock button not working. It came and went, usually not working when the weather was very cold. But the power locks triggered from the driver's side door still worked, and the fob could still be used to arm the alarm. Unlocking via the fob worked.
For the past couple of weeks, neither the fob or the drivers side power lock button have been working, and I locked all of the doors and hatch manually. After the last door was locked, the hazards would flash indicating the car was locked, and I could still use the fob to arm the alarm. Unlocking via the fob worked.
As of a few days ago, the hazards no longer flash when all of the doors are locked, and the fob cannot arm the alarm. The fob still unlocks the doors just fine, though.
I've checked the fuse for the power locks in the interior panel (it's good). Using either the fob or the driver's side door lock control causes a clicking noise from the dashboard, but nothing else happens. The driver's side door latch cable was replaced about a month ago.
I bought a 2010 Elantra touring last September (it now has 166000 km). I love the car except for the hard shifts. It happens every morning when moving from a cold start. They vary from slight to pretty noticeable. I had the transmission flushed shortly I got the car. I just had the transmission reset about 2 weeks ago. It was smooth as glass for about a day or so after. Then back to square one. Yesterday it hesitated shifting between 4th and 5th going back and fourth a couple of times.
View 2 RepliesI have a '93 Suburban, Its actually in great shape, except that the fan made some loud whining noises for about 45 minutes and doesnt work at all now. I have heat, but only when Im driving on the highway and only when the heat is actually turned to the "off" postion on the switch and I dont even have heat when slowly driving around town. The rear fan works, but blows cold too. Im not sure that even gets hot when Im moving, as I feel a cold breeze on my neck when I turn on the fan when Im driving. I dont think the ac works at all...just bought this truck, so havent tried it, and its cold out anyway, so I'll have to wait I suppose.
View 6 RepliesJust bought a 2005 Jetta 2.0 4 speed automatic (non tiptronic) with 92,000 miles. This is the old 1999-2005 style, not the New Jetta that was introduced that year.
I've done research and have found that the transmissions on these bodied Jettas seem to be acting up.
This one shifts fine with a few weird things. When I start the car cold (this is in LA, so even over night the temps don't go below 60), and I put it in reverse, the car does not go into reverse for a good 3-5 seconds. This does not happen after the car has been driven for a while. After that it shifts fine, no delay.
The other symptom is sometimes the shifts from 1st to 2nd gear are a bit rough, with a thump sound, but nothing too out of the ordinary...if it wasn't for the other mentioned problem above, I wouldn't think twice about the 1st to 2nd shift as many automatic cars have some rough shifts. All the other gears shift fine.
I've done the basic research to know there could be a couple things causing this such as clutch piston seals and excessive drainback. I want some more info since I know there are my experienced people on this forum. Should I be worried and are there any things I should do immediately?
I have also found that these transmissions are sealed and can not be checked for oil levels with out taking to expert shop. I've also seen that they are very sensitive to overfill and any service needs to be performed by experts. Should I just continue and come back to this if symptoms get worse?
My nephew's car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS manual. His RPM's hang when he shifts and it is a pain to shift.
I took it to the dealer and had them do TSB#04-36-011 Delayed RPM drop between shifts. This TSB supersedes TSB 01-36-025. Here is a link for the newest TSB : [URL] ....
The TSB Basically tells them to erase ECM adaption values. Then, you update the ECM with new FUEL cut-off logic. When we drove off the dealers lot the delay was not better, just different.
After driving it for a day or two we saw improvement. Now when you push in the clutch the RPM's go up slightly for a second to burn off the gas then the RPM's drop faster than before.
I have a 2002 Elantra GLS with the 4 speed auto and in the mornings or after sitting in lot at work for 9 hours, the trans shifts hard from second to third (almost as if it has a shift kit) and slips a little from third to fourth. The TPS was changed once and that seemed to eliminate problems at the 26K mark. I have 109K on it now and at around 80k took it in to the dealer with the receipt for the same complaint and what was done the first time. Dealer kept overnight and said there were no problems. I do know from having a performance TH350 built that the harder a trans shifts (up to a point) the longer it will last due to less friction on clutches and bands.
View 6 Replies2001 Elantra shifts to overdrive only after running 3000 rpm for a mile. Then at other times it shifts to overdrive ok. fluid is ok Sometimes putting the shifter into neutral with the car rolling and putting it back into drive will get it to upshift.
View 1 RepliesMy daughter has complained about periods of no heat- fan blows but cold air. Next time the heater works fine. She is keeping coolant level up but does need to add a bit (pint or so) say every other month. Last week during the Chicago snow storm she called and told me the heater (which had been working) blew a bunch of "smoke" into the car and onto the windshield and windows which then froze solid. I assume the smoke meant steam and she did say it had a sweet smell when I asked her.
Car was towed to a SAAB dealer who ran the car for a couple hours and found no issue and then drove the car for a period with no issue. I had my local mechanic also check it in the past for no heat and it also worked fine then. Only thing I can think of is that there might be a small/intermittent leak in the head gasket with an exhaust bubble forced into the cooling system? That does not explain the steam in the passenger compartment though. Could it?
I have a 01 Honda Odyssey and I am getting no heat in the front of the van. In the back I can get heat just fine. Also the front blows on all setting, just cool air. I am wondering, what it might be and what I can check.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 Elantra w/ 108K miles. The current issue is the heat/ac blower intermittently not working. On Christmas Eve I started to drive it and realized the windshield was fogged up because blower was not working. The next day it worked fine...we chalked it up to maybe being related to having plugged a crock pot into the cigarette lighter (with a plug convertor thing)...wishful thinking that maybe something just got "overloaded." It has been working fine since, except last night when I started it, same thing--no air blowing on any of the settings (I read that if setting 4 works, but not 1-3, it makes a difference w/ the diagnosis). And, then again today...it works fine. Other things that I have noticed/that have happened in the past year or so (possibly unrelated, but figured it couldn't hurt to mention them just in case):
June 2013--started intermittently hearing a loud buzzing type sound (at first thought it was my phone vibrating)...sometimes would happen randomly, but mostly when I would adjust the heat/ac...sound coming from the passenger side front of the car floor area (maybe under glove box where I know the blower motor is). The buzzing would last anywhere from 2-20 seconds. Never did anything about it since everything was working fine...
Last winter--while driving home during a heavy snow storm w/ defrost on high and windshield wipers going noticed that the fan/blower seemed to "surge" when I stepped on the gas..like the blower would slow down when I braked and blast out much more air louder when I accelerated. I noticed this again tonight...possibly it has been ongoing and I just have not noticed.
Early Dec 2014-present--unable to adjust the temp setting...despite twisting the knob from red to blue, it remained hot air. Assumed it's the blend door, but figured we'd deal w/ it in the spring when I needed cold air again!
What this could be (or an overall problem that would explain all the problems?).
The heat works fine when driving but when car is idling there is no heat, the blower is working just blowing cold air, the temp gauge reads normal???
View 3 Replies2004 Elantra - 65,000 miles: Heat and AC works fine when vehicle is moving. At idle or parked it just blows air.
View 2 Replies2005 Elantra here with 120k miles
Problem: Not heat will come out unless
1) I don't turn on the Fan Motor at all. Very Nice heat will "bleed" out of the vents as long as there is no Fan on - on any setting.
2) Lukewarm heat will come out if I am giving the car gas or revving it. As soon as it goes back to idle or I am no longer giving gas it goes back to no heat at all.
Things I have tried:
Topped up the radiator and tank (radiator has been replaced)
Water pump replaced
No leaks
Thermostat is opening ( Upper hose gets hot, Lower hose stays cold for a while and then gets hot)
Flushed heater core with a garden hose.
Inlet hose to heater core is hotter than outlet hose but outlet hose is not cold to the touch.
Radiator cap has been replaced
Car does not run hot at all
I have a 2000 yukon and the climate control stopped working. The defrost works just fine but the heater/ac stopped working nothing blows out from my vents when ac/heater setting is on. I checked all fuses and wires and everything is ok and connected. I just replaced my cd player and the next day climate control stopped working. I went back and checked the wireing of the cd player as well, everything is fine. Would i need a new climate control, or senser or is there a fuse on the heater itself.
View 1 RepliesAt 145k my radiator seems to be leaking. Eventually I'll be at the point where heat blows ice cold. Where should I get a radiator?
View 4 RepliesI own 01 Prius with 223K miles, No heat or AC working. Only get outside air. Here is the code I am getting: 3, 3, 4, 1, 4, 2, 4, 3.
View 19 RepliesI found no heat last week in my 01 F150. The AC was cold but no blower. The heat was there but no blower. I replaced the blower motor resistor. Result: i believe a FEW of the speeds worked when turning the fan speed switch...but was intermittent. It would blow L, M, H, then nothing. I jiggled the know on the dash mounted switch and heard it on/off, on/off the motor as I jiggled. I DID notice that when I disco'd the connector off the resistor the HIGH speed worked. Is the switch on the dash perhaps crusty ? Or should I be looknig at the motor itself.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2005 GLi and noticed my back right woofer wasn't working, only the tweeter, how do i go about taking the door apart, is it just the two screws on the bottom of the door?
View 6 Replies