Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - Engine Compartment Has Coolant Smell
Mar 10, 2013
I recently purchased a 2005 Elantra GLS. It is super clean and runs great. The dealer replaced the original radiator and hoses because they said the original radiator had a hole in it. After driving the car, the engine compartment has a coolant smell. No smell in the cabin. I looked everywhere but don't see any signs of a leak. There is no smoke coming from the exhaust and the oil is clean. Coolant levels in the over flow tank and radiator are good. The car is only driven short distances (maybe 100 miles per week). What could be causing the coolant smell in the engine compartment?
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I just bought 2004 Elantra GLS with 64 000 miles on it. Great small car. Suddenly when I parked the car I felt smell of burned plastic from engine compartment. I checked,no smoke just smell. Also,when I drive and press the breaks the car slows down fine after I release the brake pedal and just before to stop I can feel small pushes. What is happening.
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Our Elantra never overheats or shows hot on the gauge but every couple months it is a little low on coolant. When I shut it down I sometimes get the sweet antifreeze smell. I see no leaks. Never a spot on the driveway. Just need to add a little. Car has about 80,000 miles. as a matter of annual maintenance I drain and fill the coolant and trans fluid once a year. Hoses are in good shape. The oil is clean and shows now sign of contamination. We Love this little car.
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Acquired a 1997 Subaru Legacy a few weeks ago. Drive it for a prolonged time in the heat, at speed, and you can smell warm coolant from the engine compartment. And the temperature gauge hovers in the middle of the dial, no matter what.
My wife explained the smell away by guessing she'd spilled coolant when she topped it up. But it's been weeks since she did that. Also - this sucker drinks coolant. I'm guessing every 2-3 days I'm adding another gallon.
It occurs to me that ... maybe .. a leak on top of a pipe so the coolant doesn't drip out, but the loss of pressure (from the hole) causes the fluid to boil and flash out? This might explain the 'higher than I'd like to see' operating temperature.
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I hear a bit of exhaust leak noise from engine compartment only at a cold startup, it goes away in seconds. I am 700miles from home. If it's a nonessential fix i will drive home before fixing, or, if an easy gasket replacement, I have two more days here, and tools,garage, and competent support to diy the job.
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I smell gas when I start my vehicle. However, the smell goes away once the car warms up. Is this a concern?
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT Hatchback, and it is not going so well with me at the moment. My thermostat works perfectly fine, but my car is overheating. I've taken it to the shop multiple times but still doesn't seem to get fixed. My coolant seems to be fine, and stays at its level, but what doesn't seem to be fine is that it doesn't seem to be sucking strong enough into the radiator so that it can go to the engine! On the lower level coolant cap (one with the hose attached), it seems to be leaking out of there when the car is hot, as if the coolant is trying to suck into the radiator but not strong enough but yet leaks out of it since it isn't strong enough. My theory is, the cap with the hose isn't on tight enough to fully let the coolant suck through the hose, and so air leaks cause the coolant to leak out of it and not into the radiator.
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Our 05 Elantra (170k miles) is leaking coolant externally from the head gasket. At first I thought it was coming from the freeze plugs, but it's actually leaking from above. I'm mechanically inclined but have no experience with head gaskets. I have access to Alldata but no service manual. Will it tell me everything I need to know? The farthest I've gone inside an engine is removing valve covers car runs great and we like it enough to want to keep it for a while ... I'll also mention I will be replacing the timing belt as well.
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Alright, my dad taken it to a mechanic, and guess what, it's still there. Only happens when the engine's warmed up. This is pretty much all I know, but it comes in through the a.c. and seems to come out of the engine compartment on the passengers side.
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I bought a 2011 VW golf TDI back in August. I current have 12,000 miles. I got my 10k oil change at the beginning of Dec. I ask them to look at the injector recall as well. Everything seem good so far. Until today..... I was out with my girl today getting the rest of our Xmas shopping done. As we were waiting for the light to change the car started surging. Not like a sensor surging but a little surging. I thought it was doing just its thing and it would stop. We pulled in to where we shop and did our thing and headed back out.
Again it started to surge. 5 mins later we pulled into our driveway and started to smell a bad odor coming from the engine compartment. Really bad that she could smell it from inside her side of the car. I can't describe the smell. Maybe electrical not sure. We let it cool down and now I'm about to check out. I have to go to work tomorrow and I'm not if I should drive it or not. I drive 158 miles a day for work.
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2001 hyundai Elantra 97000 mi. perfect on Thurs. Engine light flicker, sulfur smell, rough running, low power on Friday
First thought / hope, Bad gas? Had Filled up on Weds.... I added dry gas and FI Cleaner.
Second thought / fear Cat. Converter
Third . .. . ???
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I have an 03 Passat Wagon, 2.8L V6. My wife is getting ready for a big drive tomorrow, about 13 hours. Right now after reaching the operating temperature and then shutting off the coolant is boiling. The temp gauge never goes beyond 190 so it is not overheating but it is getting really warm in the engine compartment.
History: I noticed a couple of days ago that the expansion tank was badly discolored and had some corrosion inside. I know it was because I inadvertently mixed the green stuff with it about 2 months ago. I know it was stupid, but that was before I realized how stupid. Yesterday I drained the coolant and flushed it about 4 times. I couldn't flush it completely because I couldn't get at the drain next to the transmission fluid pan. I just drained it from the front outlet.
I refilled the system by disconnecting the expansion tank and holding it up until fluid came out of the hole on the hose going into the firewall. Then I was going to bleed it from the bleeder screw in the rear coolant pipe (as listed in Haynes manual) but could not find it. I even have the photo in the book to guide me and it is not there. Since I couldn't find it I skipped to the bleeder valve by the serpentine belt. I bleed that and hooked it all back up.
Now my fluid boils. I know it isn't the expansion tank cap because I took the one from my Jetta and put it in and it does the same thing. I put the cap from the Passat in the Jetta and it doesn't cause that coolant to boil. After driving today for a half hour the engine compartment felt superheated. Even the fenders were hot to the touch. It is almost 90 outside but it still felt unusually hot in the engine compartment. I would like for my wife to drive this on her road trip instead of the Jetta, but I can't let her do that with this problem.
I think I must not have bleed the system very well. The heater works and the temp gauge never goes above 190.
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Occasionally I get blue smoke in the engine compartment with a sweet smell after a long drive. No malfunction lights, oil, brake, coolant, power steering fluids all are normal level. VW service doesn't have a clue, says just drive it until it breaks down. He also informed I should never use Tiptronic for braking since it could damage the transmission(we live in the mountains). What is it for anyway? We use Mobil 1 synthetic oil, and it is not overfilled. Car has 120k miles.
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It's been snowing for a couple hours now and on the way home I stopped to get gas. When I popped the hood to add some windshield washer, I noticed that there was quite a bit of snow in the engine compartment, especially in the battery area and on the other side of the engine bay as well...When I arrived home, I checked my girlfriend's 2012 Accent that hasn't been moving today and there is snow as well... Is this normal that the snow gets in there so easily???
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My 2003 GTI 24V VR6 is leaking coolant pretty quickly from the passenger side of the engine compartment. I have a new water pump in hand. If I'm replacing the water pump, would it be smart to go ahead and order a thermostat and metal crack-pipe to replace at the same time that I'm having the water pump installed? I'd hate to get the water pump installed, and find out that the leak is at the crack pipe.
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Recently purchased a CPO 2009 F250SD 6.4L. Happy with the truck overall but this AM I noticed a slight burning plastic smell so I opened the hood and looked around closely. Didn't really find the culprit(I don't think) but noticed that the engine compartment heat shield/barrier appears to be falling down above and behind the turbos (pictures linked below). How big a deal is this? Would it be covered under the CPO warranty? It almost seems like a safety issue. I also wonder if the insulation material, now exposed without the metal reflector material, is what is causing the smell....
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This issue has only happened twice to me.
I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
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I am looking at a 05 GLI 5 speed with 133k miles. I drove it yesterday and it runs fine, but I smelled coolant after I turned it off. I was told by the dealer that the turbo is leaking some, it was spooling while driving and didn't seem to do anything funny. The check engine light came on and said coolant was low when we got back, when I cranked it back up the light was out. Just not sure about it.
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I just purchased a 2005 elantra with 133k on it and she runs fine other than a slight erratic idle. And by slight I mean it will jump about 50-100 rpm idling and every blue moon it will jump up to 250 rpm sitting there. After idling for a while my CEL came on with the following codes.
P0507 idle air control rpm high
P0506 idle air control rpm low
P0170 fuel trim malfunction bank 1
P0121 throttle position sensor
What could be causing this? I took the iac off and cleaned it with maf cleaner but it didn't work.
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I have a 2005 PT Cruiser non-turbo. A short time back, the tensioner bolt broke on the alternator and after spending several months going back and forth with the dealer, I was finally able to find the correct size bolt to replace it. Shortly afterwards, I began to hear a scraping sound coming from the engine compartment. The sound is sporadic, and only lasts for a short time. The sound only appears to happen when the engine is idling down when coming to a stop, and it doesn't always do it.
It doesn't make the noise when accelerating, in fact, the noise quits when I accelerate. The noise sounds like metal being drug on concrete, or a grinding sound. Is this a possible bearing going out on the alternator or possibly the AC clutch/bearing? The noise is not present during normal driving conditions, just when the car is almost at a stop and stops as acceleration occurs. I have reached in to see if possibly a loose pulley/bad bearing on the alternator, but there is no slack there. Is it possible that I have the alternator belt too tight, or is this another issue?
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So I noticed the smell of burning coolant a day after I got an oil change. My car wasn't overheating and my thermostat didn't jump at all. I open the hood and there's a little bit of smoke. I take it to a mechanic and they do a pressure check. They see dried coolant under the upper hose connecting the engine to the radiator. They tell me its the flange connecting that hose to the engine that's leaking low levels of coolant and it will cost 150 to fix.(not a gasket) I say go ahead. They're in the process of fixing it today and they call me saying "We got the part, and we're going to fix it but we think the thermostat isn't fully opening or closing which is causing the problem and it will be another 150 to fix". Now I looked up this mechanic and they have 12 1 star reviews on Yelp of people saying they were overpriced and the mechanics often piled on things once they got on.
My issue is essentially the mechanic said "This problem could happen again if you don't replace the thermostat" but he also said they're not sure if its a bad thermostat. Couldn't they check the thermostat easily??? Like I said I said besides the leak in the flange I haven't had any issues. The car warms up fine and the temperature NEVER spikes (I had a different car overheat and blow a gasket two years ago cause I didn't notice the temp gauge for 2 miles and I LEARNED MY LESSON) I always keep a careful eye on the gauge.
My question is isn't there an easy way to check the thermostat? The mechanic keeps pressuring me to fix it. Just to be safe I am just having them fix the flange and taking it to a mechanic I trust. (I couldn't take it to him before cause he's on the other side of town and I was paranoid my car wouldn't make it)
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