In less than 30,000 miles, I've replace the clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate three times. Dealer adjuster clutch at 12,500. First replacement at 15,000 miles. I do not ride the clutch
View 8 RepliesI didn't need to replace the rear shoes. I just did it because the front brake pads were worn and I thought the rear shoes might be worn also. The front brakes were super easy to replace. The rear brakes not so easy. I ended up using a breaker bar and a 32mm axle socket wrench just to loosen the spindle/hub nut so I could remove the brake drum.
I re-assembled the brakes shoes and springs exactly like it shows in my Haynes manual. The new shoes are shaped identical to the ones I replaced. Now I can't get the shoes to seat tight when I apply the brakes and my parking brake isn't working at all, although I can see the parking brake lever move on the trailing shoe when the lever on the console in the car is raised and lowered.
I did as the manual directed. After putting the wheels back on, I applied the brakes "forcefully" a number of times while I was driving forward and backward. This was supposed to auto adjust the brakes. There is no adjuster slot. (The front brakes are stopping fine.)
The old shoes weren't that worn when I replaced them, so the parking brake shouldn't be totally out of adjustment. I don't want to remove the console and start messing with the parking brake cable adjustment until I can figure out what I must have done wrong when I worked on the rear brakes. It seems like the adjuster lever pawl is not working?
I am currently driving a 2005 Elantra (manual trans) with only 48k miles on it. Less than a year after buying the car new the clutch had to be replaced (around 10k miles) and now the second clutch is about to go as well. I do not ride the clutch or drive like a maniac so there is no reason to be on a second clutch at 48k, let alone a third one. Is there anything I can do besides putting a new clutch in to protect against this problem in the future? Also, would installing a stronger, high-performance clutch work?
View 1 RepliesI have a 1998 Ford F150, Manual transmission. It has set for 1 year. Upon driving it for the first time yesterday, it gradually came to a stop. The clutch never smelled hot or appeared to slip. Today I took the inspection cover off and found a rather large nest has been built in the clutch and pressure plate. My question is could this nest cause the throw out bearing from allowing the pressure plate to make proper contact with the clutch. The truck will move in 1st gear and in reverse as long as there is no resistance against the truck.
View 2 RepliesThe oil was changed by a highly reputable shop 2 days ago, (45 miles ago). My wife noticed today that the "Low Oil Pressure" red message flashed 3 times in the last 5 miles of her 10 mile trip (45-50 mph). She stopped the car and called me. I arrived at the parked Prius and saw no oil on the dipstick. I poured a quart of synthetic in and looked under the car to see it pouring out. My finger discovered that there was No Oil Plug. I called the shop and they sent a tow truck, put a new oil plug in, refilled the oil and claim no damage since "the Prius shuts off the gas engine when low oil pressure is sensed". Looking for information about this "shut off feature?" What should I ask from the shop? What should be tested & checked for? How do you test for damage to the bearings? How about a compression test? The car has 100K miles.
View 19 RepliesI just replaced my clutch and have put everything back together, and bled my clutch line, but I have absolutely no pressure still in my pedal. I read that u need to make sure your brake fluid reservoir is filled to the max, but following the clutch line, I dont see it going to the reservoir? I also read that the master cylinder is behind the clutch pedal, does the master cylinder hold any fluid that maybe I lost during the bleeding? I'm at a loss right now.
View 12 RepliesThe 2005 Prius I bought has had the AC compressor replaced 3 times in about 6 months with new toyota parts, the repair shop told the man I bought the car from not to bring it back there anymore they cant find the problem and toyota will not replace the compressor again for free...I guess 2 replacements is their limit.
The AC blows warm and Im not sure how to tell if the compressor is working or not, the inside fan works on all speeds, the fan by the radiator comes on but is VERY loud....of course I don't leave it on, only for testing to try to find the problem.
Where to look or why this car is burning up compressors.
A friend just replaced my clutch in my 07 elantra and now the car wont start! it just cranks over?
View 1 RepliesBrought my car for an oil change at 42000 km (26000 mi) and asked the dealership to check my brakes since I've been hearing a noise for the last 2 weeks. Ended up having to replace both rear disks and pads. Dealer said everything was seized up and that they were able to rescue my front brakes by doing brakes service on them.
Next day, the exact same thing on my girlfriend's 2012 Accent..! Dealer told me that brakes need to be serviced every single year to avoid this...! Really??? I never heard of that before and needless to say, I didn't expect to get a 500$ + bill on a new car...
I checked with my mechanic and he did inspect my brakes at 24000 km (14900 mi) as I asked him and that everything was working perfectly.
I have an 07 elantra and I was going down the road and my clutch pedal hit the floor. I replaced the slave cylinder. Tried to bleed it and there's no fluid coming out and there is still no pressure on the pedal.
View 1 RepliesSanta Fe 2003 petrol manual 2.4
I had a slipping clutch so decided to change it myself.
I replaced the Dual Mass Flywheel the clutch pressure plate and clutch plate.
Re assembled and the car started first time but the clutch would not disengage.
Pressed the clutch peddle down and it went to the floor until the fluid had filled then it went solid.
I pressed it down again and the clutch did not release so pressed harder and 'pop' the master clynder went - but the clutch would not disengage.
Taken the gearbox back off now and the release bearing is in sit it just would not disengage -
As I've been doing work on the rear struts I noticed drag on the rear wheels when the car is jacked up. It's definitely the brakes. At first I dismissed it thinking it was the rotor going out of alignment when the tension from the wheel lug nuts is released (I don't have the retaining screws on the rotor). I can turn the wheels by hand but there is definite resistance.
However, yesterday I asked someone to listen to the rear wheels while the engine was off and the car was moving slowly. They could hear the sound of pads against the rotors. There is no smell nor do I notice any extra heat.
The caliper pistons move very easily and I'm fairly confident they're not stuck. The rotors and pads are in great shape. So I'm assuming it's an issue with the parking brake cable. But, I don't even know where to start. The parking brake seems to work fine otherwise.
My eclipse never had any problems it has 137k miles on it and a couple weeks ago we got a big snow so I didn't go anywhere so the car sat in the cold for 3 days without moving I tried starting it to go to work to.
Found out I had no pressure on my clutch went all the way to the floor. I bled the clutch refilled and it worked, drove it for 2 weeks no problem. We just got another big snow let it sit again n now it is doing the same thing. My mechanic said he couldn't find any leaks but I'm thinking it has to b a master or a slave leak.
The car is a 2005 Hyundai Elantra with a 5-speed manual transmission. My father and I were replacing a worn out clutch disk on my sisters car. We replaced the clutch disk, pressure plate, and throw out bearing with no problems; however, when we put the transaxles back into the transmission we noticed that they could spin freely despite the transmission being in first gear. The clutch is not engaged even when the clutch pedal isnt being pushed in. We stopped putting the car back together until we could figure out what was wrong with it.
View 12 RepliesI replaced the MTX transmission, and while cleaning off the rotors of oil, I let the one side spin while in first gear. I put the wheels back on and started to back out of the driveway. It seemed as if I was rolling into something as it wanted to stop moving backwards. I then put the front of the car back on jackstands and tried to move through the gears. While in 1st or reverse, the car begins to engage and then acts as if it is grabbing gears and will stall. The car does not want to move. I then went outside with the car off and tried to spin the wheels in neutral. One wheel spins one way, the other spins another. I tried to put the car in reverse and it starts to move the tires, then catches on something and stalls. Then, the shifter is stuck in reverse and I have to work to get it out.
View 4 RepliesChanged the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
Replaced fuel filter. Got all 4 washers plus cap from old filter. Engine won't start. Saw there is a fifth rubber washer that nobody mentions anywhere and transferred that to the new pump. still won't run.
When I turn the key to On, I can hear the pump turn on for 2 secs and stop. if I do this 5-6 times and then try to start, engine will start and then die immediately. seems the pump is not pumping when the engine tries to run. it pumps only for two secs when the key goes from Off to On position.
There are two lines going to the pump. which one feeds the engine. if I disconnect that line, should I see fuel coming out when I turn the key and try to start the engine?? or is there a better place to disconnect closer to the engine??
I just replaced the clutch plate and throw out bearing since the clutch was bad but now its like the clutch has seized up or maybe the transmission is bad. I did start it up and a friend of mine Idk stepped on the gas or something and blew the clutch master cylinder.
2001 Hyundai Elantra ... I dont know anything about this car ....
I had the car worked on a while back. They replaced the clutch and the viscous coupling in the transmission. ('03 Subaru Legacy manual transmission) Things seemed fine, then I realized my reverse light was acting like it was going out. Fuses are fine. A while later the car decided the clutch didn't need to respond as smoothly. Then: "Nope, you're funny to think you can drive me. I'm not budging." The car started grinding gears. I have to slam it into gear for it to work so I can drive it home and let it sit. The car will go into gear when off, no problem. New fluid has been put in. Bled. Then some sort of SUPER LUBE was put in and it still grinds. What might be happening? I really don't have the fundage in order to buy a new car at this time. But at the same time I hate feeling like I'm chasing a rabbit down a hole..
View 4 Replies Dad has a 2001 well cared for Mazda B3000 with around 128,000 miles on it. Motor runs fine, so did the tranny up until a couple of weeks ago. The tranny needs a new clutch, throw out bearing, and pressure plate. It was drivable up until about four days ago.
My Dad has been working 6-7 days a week and hasn't had time to tear into the tranny. We just drained the old fluid out and put in new when it first started making the noise it makes. We have priced the parts and was just waiting for my Dad to get a weekend off to tackle the problem. But someone at work told my Dad to bleed the slave cylinder before he tore into the tranny, just to see if it would work.
Well we bled the slave cylinder just like you do brakes. But now the clutch has no pressure, it just goes to the floor. We have tried everything. My dad uses the truck to commute back and forth to work. So, I am looking for any tricks on how we can get pressure back in the clutch so he can get to work.
We swapped transmissions in 01 elantras.. We installed a new clutch kit . When we go to start the clutch won't completely disengage, it only pulls it some, not enough. We replaced Tran fluid and bled it. We swapped out the throw out bearing arm and at first it worked now it doesn't..
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