I have an 05 Elantra and the blinkers suddenly don't work any more. Both of them. The headlights still work and everything else seems fine. I tried checking the fuses and the ones I can see are fine but there are several that are larger and opaque. You can't see if they are tripped. What could be causing the blinkers not to work and how do I check the fuses if that is the culprit?
View 5 RepliesI bought a car a month back and i just realized a few days ago my front emergency flashers/blinkers do not work. The rear flash fine. the blinker alert on the dash was flashing very fast so I assumed I needed a new fuse. I replaced the fuse today and still no luck.
View 5 RepliesSo, yesterday my fob just stopped working out of nowhere. Red light comes on, but none of the buttons work... nothing happens whatsoever. So, for a few times I used the key within the fob to lock/unlock the car. Now, even that key won't work. When I peeked inside my car, I noticed a light flashing that I've never seen before. It looks like a car with a key inside of it, and it's been flashing since last night.
View 4 Replies2001 Chevy Impala. Blinkers only work occasionally. I suspect it has something to do with the tilt steering causing a short in the connection. Just bought the car and trying to work out some of the bugs.
View 2 RepliesWhat to do 2001 Monte Carlo radio that won't work anymore it comes on and then goes back off and now its back off again...
View 14 RepliesI recently had my oil changed. And when I was driving home noticed my clock had reset. I have a brand new battery. I set the clock back to the right time, then headed out of town the next day. When I went to turn off the interstate my blinker did not work at all. When I pulled into a station I saw neither one worked.
My 2006 Elantra is also suddenly using double the amount of gas. I took it to a place 2 days later when I got home. The turn signals decided to start working the second it went in the shop, yet hadn't worked 10 minutes before I got there, and they didn't know what the cause of the clock resetting itself would be, or the higher gas usage.
I did have somebody check to make sure my battery cables were tight. I am at a loss yet these problems all started at the exact same time. What I could have checked? My car ran great before this last oil change. Now I don't even go out of town because of it hogging gas.
Last week, my 2005 FX4 Screw died suddenly, and would immediately lose all power to the gauges as soon as the jump leads were disconnected, not to mention the engine would eventually die shortly after that. After a bit of logical thinking, a buddy and I determined that it was likely the alternator, so we pulled it and replaced it. We also had the alternator tested, and it failed every single test, so it was pretty clearly the culprit. The good news is that the truck starts and runs/stays running again. The bad news is that my audio and 4x4 systems are both offline.
As far as audio goes, I'm guessing it's an easy fix because it's probably a fuse somewhere that got toasted. But the 4x4 is a little more of a problem. I tested the vacuum lines by pulling them from the hubs, and neither had any suction. Okay, the solenoid isn't getting power, probably another fried fuse, right? Well, here's where I'm getting confused.
My understanding of this 4wd system is that it works like this: When in 2wd, the solenoid engages the vacuum and pulls the part of the hub that locks in the wheels (not sure what specifically to call it) out, therefore disengaging the front 2 wheels. When 4wd is turned on, the vacuum disengages and that part of the hub pops into place, locking out the front wheels into 4wd.
So, by that rationale, if the 4wd solenoid isn't working due to an electrical issue, then my truck should automatically just be locking itself into 4wd, right? Because without the vacuum to disengage that part of the hub, it should just pop into place and keep the truck locked into 4wd. So if I'm correct in my understanding, then I have another problem because my truck is still operating very much in 2wd.
I did the classic 4wd tests: tight circle to feel the front end gripping/pulling, gun it from a dead stop to see if all 4 tires engaged. But I turned in a much tighter circle than 4wd would ever allow, didn't feel the front end grip/pull at all, and the "peel out" test only showed my 2 rear tires as launching me forward. I also tried shifting into 4-Low, but the truck never shifted into low gear either. -I know that's probably just electrical, but I'm just trying to be thorough in my testing/explanation.
When I so this its like pressing in the clutch and revving it but my car is an automatic. During the upshift and downshift there is no jerking or hard shifting so I would assume this is OK? And is full throttling your car every few days bad or good?
View 10 RepliesI've been dealing with an A/C issue for a while, ever since last summer. A black on black car is hot enough as it is and with no A/C, it sucks. I took it to the local specialist, not the stealership, Anyway, he looked over it and found that one component wasnt even wired up so he wired it up and fixed it and put some freon in it and it seemed to work fine.... until the freon escaped.
View 4 Replies2000 jeep cherokee brake lights will not work.changed the bulbs, brake switch, checked fuses, ripped the effin panels out and checked wires and grounds, ripped up rugs found the mouse nest-no mouse, no chews in wires. the parking lights work, hazard lights work? WHEN LIGHTS ARE ON, RT HAND BLINKER DOESN'T WORK...WHEN LIGHTS ARE OFF BOTH BLINKERS WORK..
View 1 RepliesI am having some brake problems. They started grinding really hard suddenly one night while I was at work (delivery) on the passenger side and having recently replaced my driver's side wheel bearing I thought maybe something was wrong with the other one (seeing as how they have the same number of miles on them) that was causing my brakes to get wonky.
Drove to my Dad's to enlist his expertise. When we got it all taken apart the first thing we noticed was the rim of the rotor was all eaten up. Then we got the pads off and saw they were completely worn all the way down to the metal only on the outer edge, so they are wearing at a diagonal. Same for the back and front pad but the front pad was worse.
We thought the caliper was sticking and causing that since it was hard to move before taking it off, so we replaced and regreased the pins, and put on a new rotor and break pads.
Decided to take the other side apart to see what it was doing. Same story just not all the way through the pad yet but quickly heading that way. However the caliper pins on this side were easy to compress and quick to pop back so things were starting to stink like that wasn't our problem on the other side either.
We had a very tough time getting the caliper, although fully compressed, back on with the new brake pads. It was a struggle to make it work, but we did and then I made my drive back with less than optimal braking power which was probably not a great idea (3 hour drive.)
My dad had a sleepless night that night because nothing added up for him as to why the pads were wearing that way and having so many problems. In the morning he got online on Advanced Auto's website where we bought all our parts and then compared their brake pads to ones on OReiley's website. Well OReiley's offers two different styles of brake pad one which has a tab on the outer edge and one that doesn't. The pads that came on my car when I got it didn't have this tab and the ones Advanced auto sold us which I put on my car the time before I started having all these problems, did have a tab.
We are pretty sure this tab is causing the brake pad to sit in the caliper at an angle because the opening in the caliper is not big enough for the tab to clear it. This is why my pads are wearing at an angle, and only the outer edge of the pad is making contact with the rotor. I really only had like 20% braking power!
I still had the brake pads that came on the car when I got it so I popped those on with the old rotors before I went to work tonight (they still have a ton of pad left and its a long story why I replaced them) it's not ideal but I have WAY better braking now and its a temporary fix until I get this sorted out.
Why Advanced auto sold me these pads that don't work with my car TWICE or what I was supposed to know before going in to buy brake pads? Generally I trust that when I got in there and tell them what my car is and ask for a part they will give me the part that works with my car. And one time being wrong is fine but twice at two different stores?
I have a 2001 Elantra with 126k miles. For months it's been randomly hesitating, meaning I'll be riding along and suddenly the gas pedal will do nothing...then about 3 seconds later, VROOOM, the gas pedal will start working again. Recently, it's started stalling as well.
I've already replaced the MAP sensor, input speed sensor, throttle position sensor, spark plugs, wires, and coil pack. Nothing has worked, but it is getting progressively worse (it stalls more frequently, and the gas pedal becomes suddenly unresponsive more often).
I've had my 2013 Prius since new. Basically it feels like my car is over-exhausting itself. When I go to take off, the car jerks like I slammed my pedal to the floor. If I'm on the highway and need to speed up, it sounds like it's reving really high and really long, and when I take my foot off the gas, there's about a 5 second delay before the car actually starts to decelerate. I don't even feel comfortable on the highway when it's acting up because my car kinda just accelerates suddenly and then takes forever to stop even when my foot isn't on the gas anymore.
This problem happened last summer, and when I took it to the dealership it stopped before I could show them. It started getting cold outside not long after so this didn't happen again. Now that it's hot out, my car is doing it again. And it's fine as long as the sun has gone down for the night. I thought it was because my a/c was on, but I can turn it off and it doesn't make a difference on the way the car is driving. I get regular maintenance done, all my filters are clean, and there's nothing I can really think could be wrong.
So my ac stopped working, well actually I bought the car in the winter and never realized it didn't work until the summer rolled around. The clutched pulley won't engage and I don't know why. I checked all the fuses and checked the the pressure in the system and its all good.
Here's the weird part through. I put my multimeter on the connector for the compressor and it reads 12v whether I have the ac on or not.
AC on a R32 TURBO with fmic is working and cold. blowing around 55* in the shop, idling outside for a long time. everything works great.
drive it about 20 minutes or so.... get hot and doesn't work anymore. pressures are good, fans both work, car doesn't heat up past where it should be.
When I turn the Car on the factory Key Fob Doesn't work anymore. How can I change this? The reason I ask is that I want to install a remote start add on from Avital (4003), so I can use the factory remote to start the car, keep car locked while its running, then uses remote to unlock the car, get in and drive away. I don't want an extra remote hanging around since i am forced to carry the toyota key anyway. How to fix this or break this so it does what i want?
View 2 RepliesI have a 92 Celica 1.6L STX, first of all I can't seem to find my oil pressure sending unit, second none of my blinkers work! I've replaced the fuse, the flasher, and the bulbs they still don't work.
View 2 RepliesGot a 2003 F150 4.6 2wd and recently the blinkers dont work. Also some how the 4wd light came on even though the truck is a 2wd. After searching it seems alto of people recommend replacing the Multi Function Switch. The truck is plain jane no tilt wheel.
Is this the MFS everyone is talking about?
Duralast/Windshield Wiper Switch (SW1977) | 2003 Ford F150 1/2 ton P/U 2WD 8 Cylinders W 4.6L EFI |
I recently bought a 92 F250 and love it but the blinkers will not work. I have replaced both flashers and the multifunction switch. (the wipers had issues too that were fixed by the switch...) Now what? Im at a loss..
View 7 RepliesWith my wife's Prius, my key doesn't work anymore, wirelessly. I thought that putting the key into the slot would possibly recharge a battery in the key, but even after very long trips, the key will not unlock the car if it's in my pocket. I can only unlock or lock the doors by removing the actual key in the fob. And then I can only start the car with the key fob in the dash holder. I assume there has to be a battery in there, so is it replaceable by the dealer?
View 4 RepliesI have a , 4 door, 5,000 miles... had it for over 3 months now, car has been flawless except for a faulty driver side window switch (rattled bad when playing music) so dealer replaced and it still rattles but it's not as bad, that was about a month ago, now I noticed that the automatic driver window up/down does not work anymore. The window still goes up and down perfectly fine...but it's not one touch you have to hold it, all the other doors work fine on one touch and the drivers used to work until now...
View 16 Replies