Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - Alarm Won't Stop / Headlights Flashing
Sep 19, 2013
I bought my car from the dealership new in 2006. 2005 Elantra GLS 5 Door. I did not know that there was an alarm nor has it ever gone off before in the 7 years that I've owed it. Three years ago I had an autostart put in. No longer have original remotes.
Today I used my remote to unlock my car doors. When I opened the back door an alarm started to go off on my car and the headlights were flashing (no horn honking). I tried using the key to unlock in the door and in the ignition to make the alarm stop.
I unhooked the battery and as soon as I hook it back up the alarm continues. Called the autostart company and they told me the autostart didn't come with an alarm. I called the dealership and they said if it was a factory alarm that it would honk and not make alarm noises.
Found my original window sticker says "keyless remote entry w/ alarm" .. Other than having my car towed to the dealership, how can I make this alarm stop?
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My 2005 Elentra GLS, when I use the key remote control and hit the alarm activation button, the alarm goes off and lights flash. And I haven't even opened a door on the vehicle. I am not using the alarm function because of this issue. Is this something I can troubleshoot. Just purchased the car used from a used car dealer.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra standard model, Manual drive.
It started out with the CEL flashing sometimes if I give it a lot of gas like taking off from a stop light. Then the car would just lose power when I was driving randomly and cut off like I was running out of gas. Then I restart it a few minutes later and it would drive fine. Then it now got to the point that when you try to drive it, it just shakes a whole lot and it has like 20% power, you can hit the gas as much as you want and it pretty much doesn't move.
The first time I had it towed home I replaced the Ignition Coil, and Spark Plug Wires which did nothing.
The first shop I took it to said it was a bad injector and bad spark plug wires (even though they were new)
So they changed the injector and wires and the car ran fine for 2 weeks at most and started doing the same thing. When I took it back he said another injector went bad and that they were all going to go bad in sequence. So I had him replace that one and it drove perfect again for a week and had the same problem.
Then I took it to another shop which said my spark plug cables were arcing inside where it plugs in so I took the cables back and got replacements and he said they were still arcing and were garbage to get cables from the dealer so I did that and it ran fine for an hour after taking it home and just started like it was running out of gas. I would have to floor it and basically coast, and try to restart it and when I would give it gas it would hardly go and I just had to keep restarting it and finally it wouldn't start so I towed it home, and sure enough after cooling down it started again and now when you drive it, it feels like you've only got 20% of power.
The only preexisting condition the car had was a clogged charcoal canister because when I get gas it always keeps clicking and I have to put 30 cents of gas in at a time or the nozzle shuts off or if I keep doing it too fast the gas comes out and runs down the side of the car.
I changed the spark plugs I think about 2 weeks before this stuff started happening. So far it has new:
Ignition coil
Spark plugs
Spark Plug wires (x2)
Fuel Injectors (x2)
Hollowed out Cat Converter because the mechanic said it was clogged
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This issue has only happened twice to me.
I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
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I've been catching up on some minor things with my car and have gotten to this one issue I've been having. When I take off from a stop I get a very slight click. Not every time but most of the time. It's a 2005 Elantra GT 5 speed. I replaced both axles due to torn boots. There is no play in the front end whatsoever, so I have ruled out ball joints and tie rod ends. Anything else I should look at?
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I bought a 2002 elentra and didn't know there was an alarm on it. For some reason was activated well I was in the store yesterday and I can not turn it off or start my car w/o it going off. I have tried unhooking the battery and resetting it as instructed by others but still keeps going off. I do not have a remote for it. How do I disable the alarm so I can drive my car again?
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I just drove my 2005 Hyundai Elantra from California to Pennsylvania without a problem. Once I arrived in Pennsylvania I took my car in for a state inspection. About 24 hours later my car alarm kept repeatedly going off. Eventually it stopped. When I tried to start the car it was dead. About 3 days later I had the car jumped. It ran fine. About 3 days later the car alarm randomly went off. I turned the alarm off and ran the car for 30 minutes and it was fine. About 24 hours later the car alarm randomly went off again. I turned it off and started the car. It ran fine. I checked the hood switches which was suggested in another post and they appear to be okay. There also doesn't appear to be any water around the battery.
What else could be causing this problem? Do you think the mechanic who performed the inspection could have hit something--my mother has had problems with them causing new problems after fixing old ones? Could it be the alternator? Could drastic temperature changes cause the problem--it does seem to happen when it goes from bitter cold to warmer, or is that just a coincidence?
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My sons 2005 Santa Fe alarm goes off whenever it feels like it. Is there a solution to fix it or can the siren be disconnected without pulling the fuse? Could it be a hood switch problem?
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The stock headlights on my 02' Elantra GLS Automatic were not bright enough, I could barely see anything at night. So in December I put in Silverstar 55w bulbs. In May the passenger side bulb died. I warranty replaced the bulb. The same bulb died again last week. I replaced it again with the same bulbs. Is it possibly my car can only handle 35W bulbs, or wiring issues, or faulty fuse? Not sure whats going on.
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I need to enable the "always on" headlight option. I know it's called Daytime Running Lights (or DRL) but I'm looking for a quick, easy, cheap, DIY solution (meaning if I can avoid installed a DRL kit).
Details: Imported car from US to Canada (2004 Elantra). Many/most US cars don't have DRL since it's not required by law. Canada law requires it. So I have to get it inspected and they will check if headlights are on even if light selector is at "OFF".
That's all I want. If it can be done by a rewiring or reconnection or putting fuse in, I'd rather do that than purchase some DRL kit, or take it to mechanic, or, heaven forbid, a dealership.
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I have a 2002 Elantra with 123k on it. It has been having issues with poor acceleration, rough idle, surging, and the car just overall shakes sometimes when driving. The check engine light started flashing on and off periodically today, so I coded and it and it gave me P0303, which is a cylinder 3 misfire. I checked the spark plugs, and the cylinder 3 spark plug was pretty bad, so I went ahead and replaced all 4. The wires were in mint condition, so no issues there. I also put fuel injector cleaner in just for good measure. When I went to test the car, startup and acceleration/reverse were better, but the other symptoms still persist. What I should check next???
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I have a 2001 elantra 2.0 gls. It is running rough with low power and flashing engine light. It may have a bad 02 sensor but when checked for spark only the 2 and 3 cylinders were sparking. I can confirm this because when I unplugged the 1 and 4 spark plugs it made no difference in the way it was running. Next I tested the resistance on the coil packs. Both were an even 1.5 ohms. How can it be that the coil packs are good yet the plugs aren't firing? I also have moved plug wires around and have had no success.
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I have 2005 elantra ve and I got rough idle stop for a while.
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The stop lights and the tail light of my Elantra GT 2001 (automatic transmission)won't shut off, unless the fuse is removed from its place. Is this something easy to fix? I imagine it can only be some kind of switch on the break pedal/clutch.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS. This past month, the A/C tends to stop cooling for a period of time. I took it to one shop and they recycled the freon, but the problem continued. I took it to another shop and they also recycled the freon. It is worse when the outside temperature is over 95 degrees. Additionally, the second shop hooked it up to a computer and said the computer is telling them that the car is getting hot and shutting down the compressor, but the air conditioning system is fine. The car is not overheating. They proposed changing the thermostat for a huge price so I declined.
I've read online that it is possible that this could be caused by a thermister or a low pressure sensor and am considering taking the car to an auto electric shop for diagnosis. What else this could be? The radiator was replace a few months ago.
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Last week I noticed an erratic temperature gauge while I was in stop-and-go traffic. It would go from just below halfway to nearly the red in about 7 seconds, bob around, go down a bit, then up, back down to halfway and sit for a while, etc. etc. etc. I stopped, added a little water to the reservoir and car was fine for about 20 minutes but then it started up again.
Went I got home I checked oil and it was low. I added a quart. After this the car has been fine.
Until today. It did go into the red a couple of times and sat there for a few seconds. I was surprised there were no lights or warnings of overheating! I opened the hood when I got home and didn't get the impression that the engine was particularly hot (though the upper radiator hose was hot).
I read this might be caused by air pockets in the cooling system and I need to "burp" it by taking off the radiator cap, starting the car, running the heater, and then topping up the radiator when I see the coolant level go down.
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2001 hyundai elantra. Car is almost stalling randomly at stop lights. Low rpms under 500 and stops. Sometimes drops to 100 rpms then shoots up to 500 right before it might stall. Engine light came up got misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 with codes p0440 and u0d00.
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I recently purchased a 2005 Elantra Automatic, my question is, when shifting it out of park, the shifter doesn't stop at "D" but at "3" is there an adjustment or is it just a quirk of the car?
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2001 01 1.8t... Hoping this isn't a bad ABS module. When I bought the car, I was told it was a bad wheel sensor in the drivers side. But, the funny part about this is its not on all the time, sometimes it doesn't even come on and the dash is normal.
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I have an issue that i have been trying to resolve. When i depress the brake lightly to a stop, the pedal pulsates. But if I depress a little harder it pulsates initially midway down and then it stops as i press harder to brake. (I hope this is easy to understand). so... press lightly, pulsates until I reach a stop. press firmly, pulsates briefly, then no pulsation until i reach a stop.
I have pretty much replaced everything. Calipers, rotors, pads, lnes, fluid, hardware. lugs are torqued to 100ftlbs.
Also the caliper is not sticking the problem persists even after I replaced the calipers. I am left at a total loss here. I cant think of anything else. One thing that i noticed is, the LUGS are really hot to the touch after driving it for 15 min or so.
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When @ a light or stop sign the car vibrates excessively to the point it makes my daughter sick. I do feel it vibrating but it doesn't bother me but something is definitely wrong. There are no engine lights on, I can hear the top end tapping and clattering, I did check the valve clearances which seem to be barely within specs. She says it vibrates worse when the tank is full. She also said when the tank is full the front end shakes driving down the road. I'm kinda wondering the front end shaking with a full tank might be the rear struts.
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