Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2005 - AC Comes On When Starting
Nov 15, 2013
Just bought myself a nice low mileage 05 Elantra. Every time I start the car with the temp control at max & the direction knob turned to windshield or windshield/cabin, the green a/c light glows & my compressor starts. I have to click the button off every time. The car came with no owners manual.
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My '04 Elantra experiences rough starting/running only when I fuel up. No dash indicators show up and I do not top off the tank. It feels like flooding but no gas smell and clears up in less than a minute and I experience no further start issues until next fill-up.
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I seem to have an electrical issue on my 2004 Hyundai Elantra. When I attempt to start the car, at random times I find that all electricity is off, preventing my car from starting. My brakes and steering wheel also seem to lock up when this happens. I have no clue what might be causing the issue or how to fix it.
I had roadside assistance run a diagnostic tonight after being stranded and my battery and starter are completely fine. I thought maybe this would have been caused by my custom stereo possibly draining the battery, but that has been installed in my car since I got it and has never given me any trouble. I've double and triple checked that my subwoofer and amplifier turn off when my car does so they won't drain my battery.
As an example, tonight I unlocked my driver side door manually, then unlocked the other doors with the button on the door. Electricity was fine there since all doors unlocked. However, when I would attempt to start the car, the electricity would be turned off: no dashboard lights, headlights, car locks, etc. One time this happened when I stopped for gas and had to be towed only to find out that my car turned on without problems once it was dropped off at my house!
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Very recently the brake pedal in my car has been stiff (won't depress all of the way down) after starting up the car when it's been sitting for a while. It takes a few presses of pedal for it to feel normal again.
I did some research and turned up a vacuum leak as a possible cause. I also wondered if a flush/bleed would be a possible fix for something like this.
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2002 elantra gls 125k miles, Automatic
I have a very intermittent problem starting the vehicle first thing in the morning ( this has happened twice this week, but only 5-6 times in the past year or so). It will crank and sound as if it just about to start, but not quite fire. After 5-10 mins of cranking, shifting into and out of gear, rocking vehicle (not sure what actually causes it to start, if anything) the car fires and runs just fine, starting normally until the next "event".
Plugged it in and got no codes.. The only difference I can see is that every time this has happened recently the car has been parked in a parking garage at work on a minor incline for about 13 hours.
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Just finished installing a new water pump on my 2002 Elantra GT when...
I went to start it, and it started for half a second and died. Further attempts to start were strained.
The battery is showing 12.58 volts on the multimeter so this was likely not the cause. I checked the fuses under the hood which all looked good. I don't know if it could be a relay or anything else electrical.
Other than the electrical side, there are two things I can think of that may be the cause.
First, being in a hurry to finish(which is probably the biggest mistake of all) I reconnected the battery too soon and wound up connecting the ground(I thought) wire to the alternator for a second causing an arc. I immediately removed the wire and followed proper procedures to reinstall it.
The only other thing I can think of is that one of the water pump bolts required removal of the idler pulley. The idler pulley demands the loosening of the timing belt tensioner in order to be reinstalled. Before removing anything I marked the position of the timing belt on the camshaft sprocket as well as the crankshaft sprocket so I'm really hoping I haven't lost timing.
Could it be something electrical? Did I over-tighten a belt or pulley? Is it timing?
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Alright so I've had this car for about six months now and the clutch was supposedly replaced by the dealer I got it at. The clutch usually grabs about half way up but sometimes it's higher. I replaced the master cylinder because it blew out, when changing my I take I noticed the slave was starting to leak so I replaced that about three weeks ago. Ever since then, the clutch seems to grab differently and seems to be taking longer to engage.
Now, I did the "slave mod" on the old one AND the new one so it's not that. Do you guys think the new slave is bad? I have high temp dot 3 in there (I try to only use the best fluids for my cars). It just doesn't seem to grab as hard as she used to. Like it takes a bit longer to engage. The clutch (should) only have 15k miles on it. The clutch parts are under warranty but I'd still have to pay for labor since it's a wear part. I'd like to avoid replacing it if it's that new u less it's definitely going.
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My 2005 Elantra has 240,000 miles on it and uses about a quart of oil per 1000 miles. It does not smoke, nor are there any oil leaks. I've owned this car since new and I've done all the maintenance work (oil changes, timing belts, CV boots, etc).
The oil consumption started at about 120,000 miles and has gotten progressively worse. Outside of the oil consumption, this car is in great shape. It starts and runs very well. My kids drive it about 1000 miles per week between work, college, and other events.
If it didn't burn so much oil, I'd go ahead and replace the clutch, struts, and shocks but can't validate the time and expense given the oil issue.
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I have a 2005 Elantra. A few weeks I parked it after returning from work. The next morning not even the remote would work and the power locks would also not work. I didn't leave the light on either. I tried to jump it, and nothing. I bought a brand new battery, still nothing, not even the headlights or power locks will work. Is there something I can check to fix myself before having it towed to a mechanic?
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Since I bought my car and driven it I noticed the acceleration noise and feel more and more. At slow speeds and rpms the engine sounds like its struggling to accelerate. It isn't smooth like a constant climb. Its a winding up acceleration. From a stop you can feel it shake the car up to 3000 rpms then it goes away. It idles somewhat rough and you can feel it throughout the cabin and the exhaust sounds putter in at idles instead of a steady drone. I suspect a fuel filter as of I have changed my oil, spark plugs, and air filter. Could it be a timing belt or something like that? It also has a very very small leak around the valve cover gasket bolts.
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I am the original owner of a 2005 Elantra. It has 89,000 miles on it. I go to start it and the power comes on but it will not crank. It will start if I jump it though. I checked the battery. It is a year old and fine. We cleaned all of the leads and cable leads to the battery. It was fine for a couple of days, but having a problem again this morning. The cold may be a factor.
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I have a 2005 Elantra gt manual that I am having some trouble with. When I first get in the car to drive it after it has sat for any period of time it seems to catch the clutch higher before I start rolling, and once I start moving I get a fairly concerning clunk. I have had this issue for a while, and due to an unrelated issue I have recently swapped out the master and slave cylinder, and the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel all have less then 15k miles on them. After I start driving I do not get a clunk, even if stopped at a light and I have to shift to first and start moving again.
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My 2005 Elantra is jerking soon after I accelerate. It does not jerk at any other time. It's not a hard jerk. Sometimes it doesn't jerk at all after acceleration. When it does jerk, the rpm jumps up too, and goes back down after the jerk.
I took it to a transmission shop and they checked the fluid and used a diagnostic thing to check the electrical components, all of which were fine. Is there another possible reason for this jerking?
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Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
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I just bought a 2005 hyundia elantra. It makes a squealing noise when you turn the car on and now just within the last day it now makes the squealing noise with the slightest turn of the steering wheel! The engine light also came on yesterday! I just bought this car a week ago and so far nothing but frustrated! ! Why it would be making the squealing noise? When you turn the car to the right the squealing is louder and steering wheel gets very tight!! Was told it sounds like a serpentine belt.. but my husband says it sounds like a power steering problem..
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Recently, my dashboard lights stopped working. All of the indicators work like gas light, check engine, etc. I checked every fuse and they seem to be working fine.
I work 45 minutes away and usually drive home at night so I'd love to be able to see my speed again without relying on my GPS.
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I purchased a used 2005 Elantra two weeks ago. In the last two days, it began spraying oil at high RPMs. The oil pools on top of the transaxle (driver-side engine compartment), and down the front of the engine onto the exhaust manifold, giving burning smell and smoke. Trying to find where it was coming from, I cleaned everything thoroughly, but I can't locate the leak/spray. If I drive under 3500 RPM, no oil sprays or accumulates. Over that, it does. Oil filter was tight (first thing I checked), can't find any obviously loose fittings or bolts. Where this may be coming from, or should I just bite the bullet and go to the dealer for diagnosis?
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I am currently driving a 2005 Elantra (manual trans) with only 48k miles on it. Less than a year after buying the car new the clutch had to be replaced (around 10k miles) and now the second clutch is about to go as well. I do not ride the clutch or drive like a maniac so there is no reason to be on a second clutch at 48k, let alone a third one. Is there anything I can do besides putting a new clutch in to protect against this problem in the future? Also, would installing a stronger, high-performance clutch work?
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I smell gas when I start my vehicle. However, the smell goes away once the car warms up. Is this a concern?
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra and the passenger, electric window will not go down. Took it apart and pulled the motor off and tested it. The gear works for going up, but not down. I tested the wires and the switch. Everything was getting power. The power from the switch to the motor was checking out to, but the motor won't turn when the button is pushed to go down. I thought maybe the motor was bad, so I wanted to make sure.
I pulled the motor off the rear door and hooked the front motor onto the wire harness for the back door and tried it. The motor worked up and down. Now I'm thinking it might be the switch, even though the power was going to the right places when I tested it. Well, since I knew the back door switch worked, I took that switch and clipped it into the front door's harness and tried it. It worked going up, but didn't work going down. Same as the other switch. Can that wire harness be bad, even though it has power going from the switch to the motor for going down?
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I have an 05 Elantra and the blinkers suddenly don't work any more. Both of them. The headlights still work and everything else seems fine. I tried checking the fuses and the ones I can see are fine but there are several that are larger and opaque. You can't see if they are tripped. What could be causing the blinkers not to work and how do I check the fuses if that is the culprit?
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