I'm having a problem with the car just shutting off while I'm driving. The computer says its the crank sensor. I replaced it and it got worse would not start. Put old one back same results. Put new one in and it starts and runs but still stalls while I'm driving. Computer now says crank sensor circuit. Not sure if it is another bad sensor or short somewhere.
View 1 RepliesFrom the time I start the car till I shut her down I hear this loud screech. I thought belts but they are not the cause! 2001 elantra 5 speed transmission ...
View 3 RepliesWe bought a 2006 Hyundai Sante Fe with the 3.5L and 4 wheel drive about two months ago, it has 94,000 miles on it. It was purchased from a dealership, and they had to work on it for a month before we took it from them because of some lights that were on, resulting in some sensors being replaced. We had it about a month when we took it to the grocery store, when we came back out I started it and it made a terrible noise, but was running, I immediately turned it off. Upon further inspection, the main serpentine belt had snapped, causing some damage to the secondary belt. We towed it home and I began to fix the belts.
When I pulled off the passenger side wheel and access cover, I noticed the remains of the belt were stuck behind the harmonic balancer, I tugged on it with about 5 pounds of force, and the entire pulley fell off of the harmonic balancer. I'm not sure if the belt stacked up behind and pushed it off, or if it just went bad, but the rubber between the portion that connects to the crank and the pulley was ripped, and missing in some spots. I replaced the harmonic balancer, and both belts, good to go, everything is running fine.
About a week later, the TCS etc. lights came on, but no check engine. I researched it a bit and came up with three possibilities:
1. Fuse
2. Tone wheel cracked/broken
3. Crankshaft position sensor
I checked the fuses and nothing was burnt, I never lifted the truck up to check the tone wheels.
I've a 2.0L Santa Fe CRDI 4WD, 2003. My Crank position sensor has blown. My question is, does the timing belt have to be replaced with the sensor, or can the sensor be replaced alone? I know the belt must be replaced with petrol models but I've been told it may not be necessary with diesels.
View 1 RepliesThree times recently my 2008 Touring Edition Prius has experienced a shutdown of the engine while driving. Each time I was able to coast and/or use battery power to get to a safe location. The “Triangle-of-Death” and the Check Engine Light was illuminated on the dashboard. Since my car is equipped with a scangauge, I was able to see the codes and clear them on the spot. After restarting the car, it showed no adverse reaction to shutting down and all was seemingly well until the next event. The codes listed below all seem to be communication lapses.
My question is; where do I start in my pursuit to diagnose and repair?
7/15/14 - 98,889 miles U0293 and U0100
7/23/14 - 99,414 miles U0293 and U0100
8/21/14 - 101,065 miles U0100 and U0000
I have a 2005 Elantra. A few weeks I parked it after returning from work. The next morning not even the remote would work and the power locks would also not work. I didn't leave the light on either. I tried to jump it, and nothing. I bought a brand new battery, still nothing, not even the headlights or power locks will work. Is there something I can check to fix myself before having it towed to a mechanic?
View 1 RepliesI am the original owner of a 2005 Elantra. It has 89,000 miles on it. I go to start it and the power comes on but it will not crank. It will start if I jump it though. I checked the battery. It is a year old and fine. We cleaned all of the leads and cable leads to the battery. It was fine for a couple of days, but having a problem again this morning. The cold may be a factor.
View 4 RepliesChanged the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.
Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.
I guess my question is: If the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?
Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely.
I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
I am a new member and have a question regarding PO138 Bank 1 sensor2.
View 5 RepliesI am getting a p0501 code (off my code reader) on my 2001 Elantra. I have already replaced the Speed sensor on top of the transaxle under the air filter. Driving into work today check engine light came back on and took to AutoZone. They are getting a P0501 code Sensor "A". They had no idea which sensor, sensor "A" was. I know there are 4 sensors on this car and have searched for other posts with no luck, all say replace speed sensor. Need to get this done to pass emissions.
View 2 RepliesDealing with mother in law's 01 Elantra GT. 175k miles, unknown history for the most part except for recent maintenance.
Having some issues now. The car will not start..the battery is fine and that is ruled out. The car will intermittently not crank...it could be days, but luckily I have the car today and the situation is currently happening. All my dash lights and electricals work fine.
It is an automatic car.
Brake lights work when pressing the pedal. I looked at the switch near the pedal and it appears to function properly but see below.
When I turn the key, I can hear noise from the cruise control module underneath the hood, but nothing else. No clicking, no crank. Dash lights don't change except the clock fades out, but turns back on when key is off the start position.
I thought maybe something with shifter. In the Run key position, I can sometimes shift it out of park and into another gear...but sometimes not. It seems that changing how I press the brake pedal affects whether I can get it out of park.
The car was perfectly fine earlier today and that is why this is so strange. Sometimes it would leave her stranded, sometimes it works fine.
When I do shift out of gear, the dashboard reflects the proper gear on the digital display.
I am pretty close to buying a B6 Passat 2.0t, but it has some mods on it. GIAC stage 2, with cat-less 3" down the pipe. the guy says he has tried almost everything he has read to get the light off and its not working. He even has a O2 sensor spacer on it. How I can get it shut off??
View 15 RepliesI have a 01 Elantra and my daughter has a 02. Both cars have the camshaft sensor at the front (timing belt) end of the engine. My daughters car is a early model with a 01 engine in it. My understanding is that later 02 engines moved the camshaft sensor to the ignition coil end of the cylinder head. My question is did the timing remain the same so that if I put a 01 engine in a late 02 body and spliced the sensor in would it work correctly?
View 8 RepliesIts been cold here in CT for the past three days. It's been in the negatives... My engine light came on last night with a p2414 so I ran it, looks like front o2 sensor (could be a couple of things), so I cleared it and waited. Today it came back with p2195 and p2414. A different code for the same sensor. But my question is this. Before I replace the o2 sensor. Is there anything common for this car that would throw this code?
View 21 RepliesMy 03 Elantra GLS was throwing an error code that my reader said was the upstream O2 sensor (before the CC in the manifold) and the #3 plug. I swapped it out at the same time that I changed out the spark plug and spark plug wires and the thermostat housing.
The thermostat housing installation all looks good. There are no leaks/drips anywhere near it and all seems good.
The problem is that, after clearing the codes and taking the car for a test run, all seems good until I get it to the point where it is about to shift into 3rd or I've reached about 20-40 MPH. At this point, the engine sounds like it is gasping for air and ready to cut off. If I pull over for a moment, I am able to get going again until I reach those same conditions. I've even had the gas pedal floored and the car won't move during these times and the CEL is now back on saying that the brand new O2 sensor is the problem again (the codes for the #3 plug are no longer showing).
I did remove the battery cable to reset the codes in case my reader wasn't fully clearing them and verified that the fuses related to the ECM/ECU were all good.
I have a 01 elantra. Check engine light is on. Diags say p0133 o2 sensor slow bank 1 #1. Any way I have replaced the front sensor. Actually now I have 3 of them. The exhaust does not leak. New gaskets on the converter. New flex pipe and everything has been welded.
View 7 RepliesElantra GT 2003 ... I had engine check light on and OBD 2 code reader showed DTC P1529 and P0705. I erased the codes to see if they comes back and one month later I have same codes back. P0705 indicates Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, so probably I should check range sensor. How the range sensor looks alike and where to find it. Where can I find it?
View 1 RepliesI just had a ton of maintenance done on my 2003 Elantra. Spark plugs & wires, timing belt, drive belts, water pump, replaced coolant and replaced the transmission fluid. The spark plugs are NGK platinum as recommended in my handbook. As soon as the mechanic started the car after the tuneup, the engine light came on with a cam shaft sensor code. He said it went off on its own.
The engine light came back on when I started the car. There's also a major loss of power after coming to a stop. I have to floor it to get it to go anywhere above 20 mph after a stop.
The mechanic said that when he replaced my water pump the liquid splashed all over everything and he thinks he might have gotten something wet that shouldn't have gotten wet and that all will be fine after it dries.
I am new to Hyundai. I just picked up a 2003 Elantra and I'm doing a couple fixes to it. When I got it, the engine light was on and the code displayed said it had a bad camshaft position sensor. Is this a common issue with the car and is it an easy fix?
Also, I just installed new brake pads and a new battery. Now the battery and brake lights are on, although I know I didn't break anything. Could installing a new battery cause the two lights to come on?
I recently took my car to the Hyundai dealer who told me that my engine light was from a bad cam sensor (Fault Code = P0340). I bought the sensor from the Hyundai parts dealer and replaced it myself. After having the code erased, the check engine light comes back on (with the same code) when I turn the car off and turn it back on, after driving it for a while (30 minutes or more).
View 5 RepliesSo I am getting a CEL and p0501 (Vehicle Speed Sensor) code and don't quite know how to approach it.
Other forums/posts suggest that I check or replace the input and ouput sensors on the transmission, but from what I understand those are each a unique code, and the p0501 is for a sensor located on the transaxle. Is this the case?
I was under the impression that because my car did not have ABS that I did not have the latter sensor on the transaxle, only the input/output on the transmission. If that is the case, will replacing both eliminate the CEL/p0501?