My 2004 hyundai elantra is revving up on its own up to about the 1 rpm area when I stop at stoplights. I am very worried that it is going to be a huge cost to get repaired.
View 1 RepliesMy car has been revving up to around 2-3k rpm upon startup... the mechanic says it's a faulty idle air control valve. He tried to clean it but to no avail--the car still revs up occasionally.
I can't find the IAC valce in the Hayne's Manual. Might it be called something else? The idle speed control actuator, perhaps? Is this is job for an industrious do-it-yourself?
I had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
My engine temp gets too hot when revving the engine but cools down at idle. The top rad hose is hot and the bottom rad hose is cool. I'm suspecting a stuck thermostat?
View 5 RepliesDriving car auto slips into neutral, car keeps revving until stopped lever put in neutral then into gear drive off again. Thats mothers version of what happens. This happens once a week for last six..
View 2 Replies2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased a 01 Passat 1.8T and noticed a strong 'used oil' smell coming in through the vents, especially at stoplights; the vehicle continued to smell badly when parked and turned off.
After looking around the PCV system, I found a small check valve near the airbox that was dry-rotted and non-functioning. As I continued to search, I found a large PCV hose directly under the intake manifold closer to the firewall. This appears to be ~3/4" hose that appears to be missing a connector. It appears as though there was supposed to be some sort of male/male insert and some clamps that are supposed to connect these tubes.
Any diagram or a DIY replacement walk-through for the PCV sytem on the 1.8T? Now that I've found the pcv break, I'd really like to get it changed out.
Automatic trans. When jumping off a stoplight or sign, I accelerate up to between 2-3,000 rpm and lift off gas. Tach stays there, say at 2,500, and slowly goes down to normal 14-1500rpm while coasting.
Also noticed deep growl when lightly pressing accelerator to keep up in traffic. Overall, in-city driving this automatic feels like a manual being driven constantly between lowest gears when my foot is not on gas. Sometimes I need to accelerate even going down a moderately steep hill. Does not happen on highways. And yes: I *am* in Drive - not shift-tronic.
Is this just how these Elantras drive/sound? Car has just over 38,000mi. 2015 Elantra SE 1.8L ...
I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that is exhibiting some strange behavior at idle.It wants to rev from 1500 to 3000 rpm, then back down, over and over again, every two seconds or so. This does not occur when the car is in drive or reverse; it purrs along at a consistent 1200 rpm.It all started with overheating and a water pump change, which was completed and reassembled.Then on startup, we began getting this revving. We double and triple checked the timing belt. We sprayed plenty of carb/choke cleaner in the areas of the vacuum hoses searching for a leak to no avail. Whenever we hookup the OBD code reader, there are no codes.Why does my car want to challenge everyone to a drag race, and what is causing this?
View 8 Replies2006 Hyundai Elantra. RPM's go flying everytime it's fired up. RPM's will drop once it's put into gear, reverse or drive and runs just fine afterwards. If it's not affecting how it drives should we just let it be? Is there anything to be concerned about?
View 2 RepliesI drive a 2004 Hyundai Santa Fe V6 2.7L with a whopping 274,3xx miles on it. I've had it for about 6 years and it has been a great car for the most part. The water pump was replaced a couple years ago and the battery was replaced a year ago.
It started having issues a few months ago. It started out having difficulty starting, and shortly after it would start it would rev up as if you were accelerating even if my foot was on the brake. I took it to the shop and they checked the head gaskets, battery, transmission, alternator (I think?). Came up with the idea that it may be the air intake valve. It's the thing that controls how much the blade opens when you press on the accelerator. Well they took it out and said it was the dirtiest one they had ever seen. They cleaned it, because no one in our area had a replacement, and my car seemed to be acting better. It would still rev occasionally and would have trouble starting but not nearly as often as before.
Fast forward to now (a month later) and my car is revving higher and for longer than it ever has and has started stalling, and not starting more frequently. It usually stalls after it has been revving when it cant release or go forward (ex. when applying the brake or while in park.)
What the heck is wrong with this thing?? No one seems to be able to figure it out and it it so frustrating, not to mention dangerous! It stalled in the middle of me making a turn today so I was literally sitting in the middle of oncoming traffic with a dead car.
1614 - Powertrain Control Module (PCM) harness is open or shorted - Faulty Electronic Throttle System (ETS) unit - Faulty Powertrain Control Module (PCM)
1191 - Electronic Throttle System Limp Home Valve On
Car is a 2004 santafe 3.5l automatic. symptoms are phantom revving up to 3-4k in park without me doing anything, sometimes car is hard to start, idle is very erratic/doesn't want to stay running. other times it starts and drives perfectly. from what i can gather this is some sort of malfunction in the electronic throttle system, and from searching people say "inspect ETS system", but i'm not sure what this involves. i unplugged every sensor i can locate in relation to the throttle system, cleaned them with electronic spray cleaner and put some di-electric grease. reset the ecu through battery disconnect, and problem came right back. local shop pulled the codes and said it'll be about 1200 for a new throttle body, and that the dealer has to reset it say what.
is there anything i can do with this sans bringing it to the dealer? i'm not even sure it would make it that far, driving home from the local shop it was in limp mode and i could only drive about 30 mph, and barely made it up hills. probbaly take me three hours to drive to the nearest dealer lol.
i replaced the accelerator pedal sensor about a year ago, and it also threw a code for throttle position sensor about a year ago also.
I have replaced the MAF sensor, TPS sensor, and fuel filter. Like the title says...if I rev the engine ...as soon as I let off the accelerator the engine stumbles and almost dies...then settles back down. I initially pulled codes PO121 so I replaced the TPS. PO103 so I replaced the MAF sensor. PO112..did not address directly as I assumed the MAF was causing. PO1123...again I hoped the parts I replaced would solve the problem. Initially the engine would just drop out while driving just for an instant and then be fine...also I had the 4 codes mentioned above. The only code that has returned is the PO121. I just got done replacing the fuel filter and things seem to be worse.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Monte Carlo that I absolutely love. The check engine light has been on forever, despite repairs that should have turned that light off. Just recently, my car has started to gain RMP while I'm stopped or going anywhere between 0-25 miles per hour. This also makes the car physically shake and jolt. Very unfortunate. I turn it on to drive once more and then my check engine light flashed and beeped at me. I thought about waiting to take it in until Monday, but now I think it is best to bring it in now.
View 4 RepliesI am after to find which USB cable and software can be used on my wife's ... 5/05 v6 Santa Fe to check the error codes. The car is revving up and down when cold and lacking power when warmed up, I'm guessing it's a sensor but I need to find which one.
View 1 RepliesWe recently had some oil leaks fixed on my wife's 2002 Dodge Caravan. The oil light comes on whenever she stops at a stoplight. It seems like it comes on when the RPM drops to about 600 or 700 RPM and then goes off when RPM increases. Is this something to worry about? If so what needs to be fixed?
View 8 RepliesGot a 2004 Elantra that ran hot the other day. When it cooled down I added some water and tried to start it but it just spins over and over and is not firing. Had some trouble with it earlier in the day with the engine racing and feeling like it wasn't getting any power to the wheels. Anyway, after running hot it just turns over. First thought it was the timing belt being broke but turns out it isn't. What else could cause this? Have checked the fuses and none are blown. Acts like it has no compression at all.
View 1 RepliesI seem to have an electrical issue on my 2004 Hyundai Elantra. When I attempt to start the car, at random times I find that all electricity is off, preventing my car from starting. My brakes and steering wheel also seem to lock up when this happens. I have no clue what might be causing the issue or how to fix it.
I had roadside assistance run a diagnostic tonight after being stranded and my battery and starter are completely fine. I thought maybe this would have been caused by my custom stereo possibly draining the battery, but that has been installed in my car since I got it and has never given me any trouble. I've double and triple checked that my subwoofer and amplifier turn off when my car does so they won't drain my battery.
As an example, tonight I unlocked my driver side door manually, then unlocked the other doors with the button on the door. Electricity was fine there since all doors unlocked. However, when I would attempt to start the car, the electricity would be turned off: no dashboard lights, headlights, car locks, etc. One time this happened when I stopped for gas and had to be towed only to find out that my car turned on without problems once it was dropped off at my house!
Girlfriend just bought a used Elantra. She told me about an issue shes been having with the car and how it feels as though its towing a trailer. I drove it for a day and noticed a few things. Vehicle has 110,000 miles
1. No CEL
2. Tranny seems to NOT be slipping (Revs climb just as slow as Speed)
3. Car feels VERY heavy at times. Especially on a start up-hill
4. No sputtering/misfires
5. Shifts up and down smooth
What I've tried so far:
1. Replaced Spark Plugs
2. Sea-Foam
3. Cleaned MAF/Checked Airfilter
4. Removed and Inspected BOTH Catalytic Converters and both seem to be intact. *plan on doing a back-pressure test as soon as I get the gauge from my buddy*
5. Checked timing marks
I put 1/4 can of seafoam in crank case and plan on letting it "run-in" for 25 miles or so. I plan on doing an oil change tonight as well as make sure the brakes are not hanging up (I should have checked this first, thinking back...but hind-sight is always 20/20 ) .
I have a 2004 Elantra and I have purchased two different code readers. They were the OBII cheaper readers. One of the readers goes through on the screen what appears to be a diagnostic routine and comes back to the home screen. The other says it has a link error. When we go to OReilly's they say no code comes up. The CEL is on. I want to know if I am missing something simple? I just want the code to get to troubleshooting the CEL light. I have removed the negative terminal and the code goes away for about a week or more then comes back. The only other light on is the air bag light but it has always been on and the CEL has not been on until lately. I have to address all the issues but this is my top one now.
View 7 Replies2004 Elantra. Get it up to around 15mph or more and brake stiffly and I hear a knock. Feels like under the pedals on the other side of firewall. Just one "knock" until you speed up and do it again.
View 1 Replies