2004 Elantra. Get it up to around 15mph or more and brake stiffly and I hear a knock. Feels like under the pedals on the other side of firewall. Just one "knock" until you speed up and do it again.
View 1 RepliesI have had a vibration when idling, I replaced the rear engine mount which fixed that, but I still have a slight clunk when I take off.
View 4 RepliesI have an 03 Elantra and before joining this I have never paid much attention to the sound coming from the engine but now that ive seen a few videos and looked at some threads I think the engine in my Elantra knocks a bit.
Here is the video i was referring to in comparison - YouTube
It sort of sounds like this but a little less intense. Its definitely knocking but not as loud as the video. It does it all the time, not only when its cold but when its warm too... Its always sounded like that but I haven't ever paid any attention to it.
Anyways... after a whole day of reading about gas and octane and all that fun stuff I am not sure whether to try midgrade or primium gas...
I have two simultaneous problems with my 2005 Elantra (automatic transmission). I don't know if the problems are related or not, or if they are alarming or not.
Background on the car: timing belt and water pump replaced in 2010; four tires new in 2010; oil changes every 5000 km.
The first is that my engine is making this 'whirring' sound when I approach 80km/hr. It's not high-pitched, but more of a droning noise. Having read around the forums, I see that Elantras commonly make funny engine noise, but this is fairly new to my car (145,000 kms) and definitely not there at all when idling or at low, city-street speeds.
Additionally, I have a weird vibrating noise coming from the front left of the car only when I am dead stopped and the brakes are fully depressed. It doesn't make this sound in park, and I don't hear it until the car has come to a complete stop; there is no odd noise while slowing down.
Okay I have a 2006 Hyundai Elantra with 56,000 miles. Whenever I have been driving for a while in town and and the car is heated up, I get a clicking/popping noise coming from the front end whenever I reverse, turn the wheel, and then brake.
I've been testing it more but it won't always click or pop when i turn the wheel, but when I push the pedal down to stop it clicks and pops a lot. And then as I turn the wheel back without being on the brake pedal it'll click a little bit more.
Normally this would sound like a suspension problem but the fact that I have to push the pedal down to "activate" the sound has me baffled. And the weird thing is, is sometimes when I'm turning into a parking spot at low speeds it will click just a little bit..
It almost feels like the brake lines are getting tangled up and making sounds. I know that's not the case but I'm trying to describe the sound. It's not the normal pop you would get when a tie rod is going out. It doesn't really sound like its metal on metal. And it doesn't constantly click while reversing or turning like it would if it were the CV axle.
The car stops just fine though.. I'd even say the brakes are pretty touchy. The other issue I have with brake sounds is coming from the back. When I'm slowing down ... at around 15 mph it will click in the back every rotation. It has to be coming from the drum brakes. That doesn't concern me so much as it probably is time for new pads or something in the hardware needs tweaking.
2001 Hyundai Elantra, with an automatic transmission.
1. I am experiencing a "grinding" sound upon my initial acceleration from park? This only occurs when the car has been sitting for a decent amount of time and the engine is relatively cold. To give you more detail: I start the car, throw it in gear and begin to accelerate. The grinding sounds is almost instant and sounds horrible. It is fairly consistent how long it lasts and generally once the car shifts to 2nd or 3rd it goes away. I do not hear it again until I park, leave the car for a while, then start it up and begin driving again.
2. I am hearing a "tension" like noise, also a little like scraping, when I brake at slow speeds coming from my driver side front wheel. I recently had my brakes replaced so I know its probably not the pads and at the time the rotors looked fine too. It is not a constant noise during the breaking either meaning, I apply the breaks, i hear it for a second, then it goes again, then it comes back, then goes away. Again it sounds like a mix between scrapping metal and tension.
What it could be, what I could look at on my own or how to get it resolved?
Braking down a hill and a sharp turn (in either direction) around 10mph results in a slight knock (1, not multiple). Is it normal? I have some suspension goodies to put on but i don't want to do that before getting any repairs done if necessary...
View 5 RepliesI have the 2012 Limited and I have noticed recently, or maybe it has always been like that and i just noticed it. When I shift gears put it in reverse or in drive, there is a knock or ping. How it can be fixed?
View 3 RepliesAbout 9/10 times when I step on my brake pedal (speed has not made a difference) I can hear and feel a hard knock under my car by my resting left foot. Started a few weeks ago. Haven't had work done to my brakes since May 2015 so I am thinking it is unrelated. What the issue might be?
View 2 RepliesFor the last few weeks (about a month) I have been experiencing a clunking noise/ knock on acceleration coming from either in front of my feet or below my feet (drivers side) ONLY on acceleration and only then from a full stop. I can also feel the clunk as well which leads me to believe it is a transmission mount.....maybe an engine mount. I am taking her to the dealer after work today. we had some very cold weather and I was hoping it was just ice but yesterday and today were well above zero and it is still there and it is EVERY time I accelerate. Which is a somewhat good thing since I will be able to replicate the problem for Hyundai.....
View 17 RepliesI have a car Hyundai Elantra model in 2013, bought it 2 years ago and cut a distance of 30,000 km.
I am careful always to complete maintenance at the agency, about a week ago I noticed the sound of a knock, this sound emerges mostly from right tire when crossing over the bumps in the road and also when the road is rough,but when the car is going in the proper ways I do not hear this sound.
I went to the agency and examined the car, and they told me that the problem is in the steering tie rod and they changed already yesterday.
But still this sound exists, but I felt that it had increased
I want to know what is the possible cause of this sound? How can I check it? And which part may be defected?
Any part of suspension systems
Springs
Axle boots
Calipers/brakes
Shock absorbs
Mountings/ mounts
Hinges
Bushings
Arms
Got a 2004 Elantra that ran hot the other day. When it cooled down I added some water and tried to start it but it just spins over and over and is not firing. Had some trouble with it earlier in the day with the engine racing and feeling like it wasn't getting any power to the wheels. Anyway, after running hot it just turns over. First thought it was the timing belt being broke but turns out it isn't. What else could cause this? Have checked the fuses and none are blown. Acts like it has no compression at all.
View 1 RepliesMy 2004 hyundai elantra is revving up on its own up to about the 1 rpm area when I stop at stoplights. I am very worried that it is going to be a huge cost to get repaired.
View 1 RepliesI seem to have an electrical issue on my 2004 Hyundai Elantra. When I attempt to start the car, at random times I find that all electricity is off, preventing my car from starting. My brakes and steering wheel also seem to lock up when this happens. I have no clue what might be causing the issue or how to fix it.
I had roadside assistance run a diagnostic tonight after being stranded and my battery and starter are completely fine. I thought maybe this would have been caused by my custom stereo possibly draining the battery, but that has been installed in my car since I got it and has never given me any trouble. I've double and triple checked that my subwoofer and amplifier turn off when my car does so they won't drain my battery.
As an example, tonight I unlocked my driver side door manually, then unlocked the other doors with the button on the door. Electricity was fine there since all doors unlocked. However, when I would attempt to start the car, the electricity would be turned off: no dashboard lights, headlights, car locks, etc. One time this happened when I stopped for gas and had to be towed only to find out that my car turned on without problems once it was dropped off at my house!
Girlfriend just bought a used Elantra. She told me about an issue shes been having with the car and how it feels as though its towing a trailer. I drove it for a day and noticed a few things. Vehicle has 110,000 miles
1. No CEL
2. Tranny seems to NOT be slipping (Revs climb just as slow as Speed)
3. Car feels VERY heavy at times. Especially on a start up-hill
4. No sputtering/misfires
5. Shifts up and down smooth
What I've tried so far:
1. Replaced Spark Plugs
2. Sea-Foam
3. Cleaned MAF/Checked Airfilter
4. Removed and Inspected BOTH Catalytic Converters and both seem to be intact. *plan on doing a back-pressure test as soon as I get the gauge from my buddy*
5. Checked timing marks
I put 1/4 can of seafoam in crank case and plan on letting it "run-in" for 25 miles or so. I plan on doing an oil change tonight as well as make sure the brakes are not hanging up (I should have checked this first, thinking back...but hind-sight is always 20/20 ) .
I have a 2004 Elantra and I have purchased two different code readers. They were the OBII cheaper readers. One of the readers goes through on the screen what appears to be a diagnostic routine and comes back to the home screen. The other says it has a link error. When we go to OReilly's they say no code comes up. The CEL is on. I want to know if I am missing something simple? I just want the code to get to troubleshooting the CEL light. I have removed the negative terminal and the code goes away for about a week or more then comes back. The only other light on is the air bag light but it has always been on and the CEL has not been on until lately. I have to address all the issues but this is my top one now.
View 7 Replies2004 Hyundai Elantra. Working on crankshaft seal keeps coming out !
View 27 RepliesAs the title says the 2004 Elantra only has a/c at idle and low speed. It started with the a/c stopping, and a mechanic gave me as story about the wiring going to the compressor being faulty. He jumped a wire from the drivers side fan to the compressor. It turned on the compressor and I had cold air again. or so i thought.
Now, it's cold at idle or slow around town stuff, but as soon as I get on the highway it stops working and blows outside temp air. Is it the compressor? If not, I wondered if the fan (drivers side) is turning at highway speeds and not back on till I stop.
04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
View 2 RepliesWe are in need of a 4th clutch for our 2004 Elantra. This is a despicable record for Hyundai.
View 14 RepliesI've been having a randomly recurring problem with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra for several months now. I'll be driving along and will notice that my brake pedal won't depress. When I step off of the accelerator, it is like the brakes are already engaged. Eventually, the brake pedal won't depress at all and the car acts like the brakes are fully engaged. Sometimes I can let it sit for an hour or several hours and the brakes will readjust and I can move again. So far I have replaced both calipers, rotors, 2 brake hoses and the master cylinder, but I am still having this problem. My mechanic is flummoxed. Any time I have the car towed in, the brakes release by the time it arrives and he has no problem to observe.
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