2004 Elantra sedan 2.0 ... When engine is started oil pressure light comes on an engine is knocking. Light goes out and knocking stops until you accelerate to a shift point. is it time to replace the engine. Oil is full. 144,000 miles
View 1 RepliesI just bought a used 2004 Elantra that has 97,000 miles on it. When I took the vehicle out for a test drive it was smooth and quite. That was on Monday its now Saturday less than 300 miles later and the check engine light came on and it is having serious hesitation issues?! I am going to take it back where I purchased it from on Monday when they open but in the meantime I would like to know if its could be something simple?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 standard Elantra GT. I had to get an emissions test and the CEL light will not stay off. My garage replaced two valves in the fuel tank and the neck to the tank and have done numerous "smoke tests" but can't find the leak. Now they are saying there is something wrong with the computer. They got it to stay off long enough to pass the test, but the light's on again. I see that there was a recall issued because of the cracked exhaust manifold, I think I had the catalytic converter replaced up at the cottage.
View 4 RepliesI just got this very nice Elantra 04 with 64k on it. Yesterday suddenly I got the check engine light on. Today I went to Auto zone and they have checked my car and it showed code P2626. But there are more than a few suggestions about what could be. I don't know what to do. See the attachment below.
View 1 RepliesI bought an 04 elantra a few weeks ago. The check engine light is now on and I get code P0420 listed twice with my code reader. I have replaced the downstream O2 sensor and reset the codes only for them to return again. It is my understanding that this is going to be a convertor problem. My question is that from the research I have done it looks as though this car has two converters. One at the exhaust manifold and then another in the tailpipe. Which one is going to be the most likely causing my Check engine light to come on. Or do I need to replace both converters.
View 5 RepliesSo I got gas 4 days ago and today the check engine light came on afterwards. Went to auto zone to read code and it had to do with the gas pressure being slightly low (gas cap). So I got gas and resealed the gas cap. Well, it's been about 2 days since then and it hasn't gone off. Does it need to be reset or does it take more time?
View 1 RepliesMy 2004 Santy 3.5L (I am the original owner) just turned 91.4K miles and all of a sudden a VERY LOUD Engine Knocking sound came from the top of the engine. I have been changing my own oil since new with synthetic Mobil 1 and a new filter every time, and I never had any issues. I changed it last week at 90K prior a Spring Break trip (1350 miles).
Then yesterday after I let her rest for 1 day, I took the kids to school and within 10 miles of my house the ticking HARD loud noise started happening. I pulled over near a shop (within 1 block of where the noise started) and they said...don't drive it it sounds like a lifter collapsed, or a rod bearing or something big...
I had her towed to the dealer and the first thing they told me is to gather all the oil change receipts and a "manifesto" and they asked me how often I change the oil... I said every 5K miles. I change my own oil and have done since day 1.
BTW, Timing Belt, Water Pump, tensioners, belts, coolant, spark plugs and coils were changed last year at 77K miles.
The car should still be covered under the 10year/100K Powertrain and I believe they are trying to build a case so Hyundai can cover this or not...
They still need to tell me what's wrong... I change my own oil so I don't have receipts for "oil changes" and I have a log of when oil was changed...
There is a knocking sound when turning my steering wheel back and forth, and when driving around. It started over the past few days. I used my stethoscope and it seems to be coming from the inside end of the tie rod, although it was very difficult to pinpoint.
The thing that really confuses me about this is that the knocking sound was happening two months ago and I replaced both control arms and the knocking went away completely. It came back a couple of days ago. I checked the tightness of the nuts on the ball joint and tie rod end.
While I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
I have an 01 nissan xterra and I think i need a new engine. There is a definite rattle at 2000 rpm, no power going uphill, and the oil pressure light comes on. So my question is, are there any alternative fuel, i.e. compressed natural gas, vegetable oil, ect conversions that I could do while the engine is being changed to make the vehicle more efficient and cost effective or am I just throwing good money at a bad idea?
View 12 RepliesRecently when I was on a longer distance drive (multiple hours) my car was producing an unusual vibration. It seemed to go away after some time. At the end of my drive I was turning left around a bend and there was knocking sound. One of the boots on the cv joint has been leaking grease so I went ahead and replaced both cv axels.
The knocking is still there. Here are the symptoms:
- Knocking sound when turning left when the accelerator is down.
- Knocking sound is somewhat intermittent when turning, not always continuous.
- The vibration is not always there and is only there at higher speeds, and is made worse when accelerating.
- All of this appears to get worse the longer the car is driven (heat?).
My Girlfriend just got a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and everything was running great on it the first month she had it BUT the check engine light was on.. After about a month she called me up while driving and said that the check engine light was blinking and the car would hardly move. So I got to the car and looked at it and I noticed the oil filter was a little loose so I tightened it good this time and added a little bit of oil. It actually moved but it would hesitate. So we had it towed to a shop and they read the codes from the check engine light and told us it was leaking oil from the motor some where (not specific) and it also needed a new O2 sensor.
So I replaced the catalytic converter underneath the car and also a new sensor along with a new set of spark plugs. It ran alot better and I left it at that. Now about a week later she was coming home and noticed that when she turned left or right that the battery light and brake light on the dash came on. She drove it home and when she turned in the driveway the car went dead. It started right back up and we got it to the house and left it over night. I went out this morning and again it started right up. but when I lifted the hood I noticed the belts on the pulleys were all spinning very slowly. I'm not sure if it could be a timing chain or if it just needs new pulleys.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. The engine light came on intermittent and also the speed performance went down dramatically and It seems that the under the front seats are getting overheated.
View 3 RepliesGot a 2004 Elantra that ran hot the other day. When it cooled down I added some water and tried to start it but it just spins over and over and is not firing. Had some trouble with it earlier in the day with the engine racing and feeling like it wasn't getting any power to the wheels. Anyway, after running hot it just turns over. First thought it was the timing belt being broke but turns out it isn't. What else could cause this? Have checked the fuses and none are blown. Acts like it has no compression at all.
View 1 Replies2012 F150 6.2L V8... I am at a loss and I know that loud knocking is not a good sign. Two days ago my truck's low oil pressure light started coming on and off, so I pulled over and immediately turned my truck off. I called a friend at a Ford dealership and he asked a mechanic what I should do. He said it could be something as simple as low oil, bad oil sending unit or maybe something serious. So, he said check my oil level if low top it off and see if that fixes the problem. It was low and I topped it off, but the light kept doing the same thing.
Here's my dilemma; my truck wasn't making ANY noises (knocking, whining, etc...), 2 days later which was yesterday I was en route to get new oil/oil filter changed and 24 miles later I'm in a turning Lane and it dies! Will not start, but it tried, so I did not try anymore. I was able to get it into a parking lot and left it for about 4 hours and went to check on it and it started right up and that is when the knocking noise started. I turned it off and checked the oil and the level reads full...
After 10-15 minutes of driving my car tonight I noticed a knocking sound and maybe a sort of whining sound that corresponded in speed/pitch to the RPMs. No warning lights, codes, temperature gauge ok, performance was fine.
I looked under the hood and I'm pretty sure it's coming from the left side of the engine (where all of the belts are). I didn't have time to isolate it further.
After 2 hours I started it up again and the noise was gone. As I drove I listened closely and after about 10 minutes I started hearing it again. It was quieter than before, but I assume it would have continued to get louder had I not arrived at home and turned off the car.
I just joined this forum some minutes ago, I own of a 2004 XC90 T6 AWD, delivered to me a couple to days ago, just barely getting to know the car, hear a knocking sound from the front passenger seat when i drive on rough roads, and this morning check engine warning sign remained on while driving out, had to park the car at home.
View 4 RepliesI've replace the input and output transmission speed sensors on my 01 GLS. check engine light is on again for 2 P0501 codes. There is no abs speed sensor on the left side but there is on the right side which doesn't look like it is seated correctly. The transmission is still shifting kinda funny sometimes. Should I have abs speed sensors on both sides? And what else should I do to fix the random erratic shifting?
View 3 RepliesMy check engine light came on in my 2005 Elantra. During the course of trying to find out why I realized that my transmission fluid was a little low. I went to Walmart and got a bottle of the multi vehicle fluid the auto counter man said it needed. I did come online to check to see if that was the right fluid before putting it in and see that evidently the specs are very specific for what type of transmission fluid to use.
View 4 RepliesHave an 01 elantra as a second car and it's great. Just recently tho the check engine light came on and I've got a few codes that make sense since there has been some odd issues with it in the past month or so.
02 sensor CKT bank 1 sensor 2 (slow response)
shift solenoid D malfunction
shift solenoid C malfunction
shift solenoid B malfunction
Trans range circuit malfunction (PRNDL input)
So I know the 02 sensor needs to be replaced, that's fine. I'm more concerned about the rest of the codes because when cruising around 40mph the car tries to shift to 4th gear or something like that, it will bog down because the rpm is too low (maybe its overdrive, not sure).
That's a minor issue but has been there since we got the car over the summer, the bigger issue is the last couple of days, i've noticed that when driving the car around the city, slow down - turning - and then accelerating the engine/trans will buck harshly a few good times before it smoothens out, my guess is the gear change didn't go well.
As the title says I have plugged a code reader in and it says "cyclinder three misfire". So I pulled the plugs and good god they were nasty. Some having a gap of 80-90 thousandths of an inch. So I figured the plugs were the source of the problem, thus I replaced them but to my dimise the check engine light is still on, and still reading the same ol' "cyclinder three misfire". I have put 350 miles on it in 24 hours of changing it to allow for proper time of the circuit cycling for the light to change but not sure if it takes longer...?
I also went ahead and checked the plug wires resistance when I had the plugs pulled and they ranged from 1.5-2.5k ohms shortest to longest (cylinder 4-1). And if your curious the magic cylinder three was around 2k ohms for however long that wire is, my guess would be 18 inches. Would this be out of tolerance, I know the norm is 10k ohm for every 12 inches or so...?
My next guess would be replacing the power pack or I guess you car guys call it the "ignition coil"...? I will say that the car does run much smoother after replacing the plugs.