I just heard that the auto transmission is acting up it won't go into high gear, and is sluggish at shifting in the lower gears. It all started with a clunk noise when downshifting at a light. Sensor failure? Band failure?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 Elantra gt manual that I am having some trouble with. When I first get in the car to drive it after it has sat for any period of time it seems to catch the clutch higher before I start rolling, and once I start moving I get a fairly concerning clunk. I have had this issue for a while, and due to an unrelated issue I have recently swapped out the master and slave cylinder, and the clutch, pressure plate and flywheel all have less then 15k miles on them. After I start driving I do not get a clunk, even if stopped at a light and I have to shift to first and start moving again.
View 1 RepliesI recently replaced my clutch and I've noticed that occasionally, while downshifting from 3rd to 2nd, I hear a clunk sound that comes from beneath the back seats. Especially if my throttle bliping is not aggressive enough. What this could be?
View 3 Replies2003 Elantra GT has a clunking on the right front when I hit bumps in the road. It is loudest when I first start to drive. After about 10 minutes it quiets somewhat and sometimes is gone completely. I looked at the CV joint and the strut but they appear ok. Also checked sway bar and tightened all bolts.
View 3 RepliesHeard a clunk and then have the car feel like something from the inside is trying to stop it when using the paddle shifters in manual mode. Specifically when downshifting from 2 to 1. By the way I did a slight throttle blip, I have done this before with very smooth results but this time it really scared me, I though the transmission broke for a second; when the car did what it did.
View 6 RepliesI have a 07 Ls460. When downshifting from second to first there is a click that is sometimes a clunk. Lexus has replaced the trans with no change. They have cleaned and lubricated rear suspension bolts and replaced the rear shocks and springs and the differential mount. Again, no change.
This started at about 80k and continues at 123k. They have checked motor mounts, transmission mount and repacked the driveshaft spline. When the car is lifted into the air and the weight is off the suspension the noise will go away for a few days.
This noise has also been heard occasionally when rolling off the gas between 20/30 mph and then reapplying throttle. Lexus mechanics and area reps are at a loss to diagnosis. I have driven a 2008 loaner and it had the same noise.
I have just purchased a 2005 elantra fx and noticed a vibration all the time in the steering and you can feel it in the seat on the floor and peddles, not severe but enough to be annoying. I had the same vibration in my last car a 2001 elantra. Is this normal with these cars, or could it be something like engine mounts as there is a very very slight clunk on acceleration ?
View 2 RepliesAfter 11 VWs, I finally have one that I would love to drive over a cliff. My 2015 Golf TSI Sport is a miserable car for me. I have had it back to the dealer four times for the infamous "shimmy" and shift problem with the automatic transmission. It has the standard automatic. The transmission has no idea which gear to use, it shifts like a bowling ball in a barrel.
Clunks upshifting and downshifting. The other problem is the shimmy/wobble. I have it in spades. The car always feels like it is hitting small strips in the road with a constant vibration in the front. The dealer cannot find the problem even though VW is trying to figure it out. (I have a feeling this isn't the first time). It is the worst driving car I have ever owned. Would much rather drive my 04 GTI with 100,000 miles and worn tires.
2004 Elantra sedan 2.0 ... When engine is started oil pressure light comes on an engine is knocking. Light goes out and knocking stops until you accelerate to a shift point. is it time to replace the engine. Oil is full. 144,000 miles
View 1 RepliesMy Car when it comes to a traffic light, wants to lurch just a bit, as I sit waiting for the light to change, I don't know whether it will stall, and also the RPM wants to rev on its own a little when I first get into the car to start it, and also while I am waiting at stoplights.
View 1 RepliesI just bought a used 2004 Elantra that has 97,000 miles on it. When I took the vehicle out for a test drive it was smooth and quite. That was on Monday its now Saturday less than 300 miles later and the check engine light came on and it is having serious hesitation issues?! I am going to take it back where I purchased it from on Monday when they open but in the meantime I would like to know if its could be something simple?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 standard Elantra GT. I had to get an emissions test and the CEL light will not stay off. My garage replaced two valves in the fuel tank and the neck to the tank and have done numerous "smoke tests" but can't find the leak. Now they are saying there is something wrong with the computer. They got it to stay off long enough to pass the test, but the light's on again. I see that there was a recall issued because of the cracked exhaust manifold, I think I had the catalytic converter replaced up at the cottage.
View 4 Replies38k and 15 months old. Runs fine except...
Can be in cruise or not, tow/haul or not, but need to be pulling a decent hill with 7k+ trailer. Running level with air bags. Regardless of speed, cruising at 50, 58, or 65, beginning incline and turbo boost builds normally to maintain speed to the point when it needs to downshift. BAM!!, not just a clunk, 90% of the time- scares the hell out of me. I can make it do it on an incline empty, but it it difficult. If because initial speed is 50ish, a second downshift to 4th may be needed. A bang only 50% of the time.
No codes.
Regardless of the degree incline, (toughest in the NC/KY areas is 6-7% grade, can avoid harsh shift by backing off on throttle and manually downshifting to 5th or 4th, depending upon speed.
Can "make" it do it on level terrain with 7k trailer if I slowly back off throttle and slow from 65 to 50 or so and punch it, but not too hard. Too hard and it goes to 4th, usually with just a modest clunk. Just right and I get 5th with a loud, and I mean loud BAM. Even the tech was impressed.
Afraid to hook up my 17k 5er and take off for the next 3 months, which is the reason I bought the truck to replace my 11...
Carrier bearing has grease coming out of it (400k on various duallies and never seen this), but dealer says not an issue.
Ford told dealer that it had no idea, and advised tech to do a lot of pin point electrical testing and everything checks out. Next stop is the inner workings of transmission.
I have been without it and work for 3 days because of backlog. Running two day load tomorrow, then back in for tranny work.
Light rattle/clunk in the steering column when going over bumps or sawing the wheel back and forth?
Lately I'm getting the sound inside the car. It feels like a loose bushing or something.
I just got this very nice Elantra 04 with 64k on it. Yesterday suddenly I got the check engine light on. Today I went to Auto zone and they have checked my car and it showed code P2626. But there are more than a few suggestions about what could be. I don't know what to do. See the attachment below.
View 1 RepliesCar has 170k kilometers , just over 100k miles on it; GL model so no sport suspension. Noise occurs going over small bumps.
Stabilizer links are the only front ends parts that were changed so far(12 months ago). Can't feel any play in tierods or ball joints, even the struts don't show signs of leakage and bounce test seems to show they are still okay.
Noise appears to come from front of car ; but I hate guessing and throwing money away. Fished a few large chunks of gravel trapped in subframe cross member around steering rack; no change.
There is a small clunk in the front end and I think it could be the hood. When I press on it with my hand I get a small clunk. I have had the dealership look at it and they are not sure of any way to adjust it. Most cars have rubber topped screws to adjust the hood for a tight fit, but the elantra does not have it.
View 14 RepliesI bought an 04 elantra a few weeks ago. The check engine light is now on and I get code P0420 listed twice with my code reader. I have replaced the downstream O2 sensor and reset the codes only for them to return again. It is my understanding that this is going to be a convertor problem. My question is that from the research I have done it looks as though this car has two converters. One at the exhaust manifold and then another in the tailpipe. Which one is going to be the most likely causing my Check engine light to come on. Or do I need to replace both converters.
View 5 RepliesI'm getting a "thunk" or "clunk" noise when driving over bumps/patched/uneven roads in my Elantra GT.
It's a hollow noise, I don't hear it unless I hit a bump/patch in the road. Doesn't have to be a large bump.
25k miles, Automatic Transmission. it almost seems to be one side (right) more than the other.
Is this a common issue for this model/year? What was the cause?
No codes, transmission makes a slight grinding noise when putting it into reverse only. Has a slight bump from 1st to 2nd. I flushed 16 quarts of the sp3 through it. Been researching and see a lot of talk about the output and input sensors. Not my car but my sisters. Needs axles, timing belt water pump, ps return hose, plus have champions in there and old ass hyundai wires.... thing does idle rough, motor mounts are new.
View 1 RepliesI am having a mysterious electrical problem with my 2004 Elantra. The radio and clock light come on over night running the battery down. It started last winter. I replaced the radio in the spring and the problem went away, so I thought the problem was solved.
This past week the temperature got very cold at night for the first time since I replaced the radio, and the problem happened again. The next morning I drove the car for a few miles, came home, turned the car off, and the radio and clock light turned off as they should. I drove the car several times during the day and everything worked ok. I checked the car at midnight, and everything was still ok. The next morning the radio and the clock light were on again. This has occurred again each day for the last 2 days.
So it appears the electrical problem has something to do with the car being cold over night. How to resolve this problem - besides moving to a warmer climate.