I just got this very nice Elantra 04 with 64k on it. Yesterday suddenly I got the check engine light on. Today I went to Auto zone and they have checked my car and it showed code P2626. But there are more than a few suggestions about what could be. I don't know what to do. See the attachment below.
View 1 RepliesI bought an 04 elantra a few weeks ago. The check engine light is now on and I get code P0420 listed twice with my code reader. I have replaced the downstream O2 sensor and reset the codes only for them to return again. It is my understanding that this is going to be a convertor problem. My question is that from the research I have done it looks as though this car has two converters. One at the exhaust manifold and then another in the tailpipe. Which one is going to be the most likely causing my Check engine light to come on. Or do I need to replace both converters.
View 5 RepliesI own an 04 Hyundai Elantra with around 196,000 miles on it, and have run across a problem I haven't had to deal with before. A few days ago, my check engine light came on while driving. I didn't really notice much, but when I started it again it began idling roughly. I got it home and pulled the code, which was P0341 (camshaft position sensor). This isn't the first sensor I've had go on the car (I replaced an oxygen sensor and throttle position sensor a couple years ago), however I ran into two problems:
1. How likely is it that it's the sensor that's bad as opposed to something like the timing belt or VVT adjustment?
2. Since the sensor isn't horribly expensive, I decided to try replacing it, but I can't get any socket to fit on the bolt that secures it. I've heard it's a 10mm, but nothing seems to fit snugly. Maybe there's just so much crud and corrosion that it's ruined the head. I tried using an extraction socket, but no luck.
I recently had the engine light come up on my Hyundai Elantra 2003. I read the code with my cheap little code reader with the torque lite (free) app on android. It threw the P0128 code which means a faulty thermostat.
Here's the web link to all the details on the code: [URL] ....
I have checked the coolant level and its good. The strength of the coolant is good to -40 Celsius. The engine fan is not running at all. I recently changed the thermostat. I'm leaning towards faulty ECT. The car takes forever to blow hot air too. It has done weird readings in the past with the temperature gauge in the cab.
I just bought a infrared temperature reader of Amazon and want to check the temperature where the water comes out of the engine past the thermostat and compare it to the reading on the torque app readings. I'm thinking it won't match.
I have a 2003 Elantra GLS. I am intermittently Check Engine light and error code is P0113 - Air Intake sensor issue. I can't locate where the sensor is. I don't see any wire coming of the tubing that connects the air filter to the engine.
View 18 Replies2004 Elantra AT ... 6 months ago top of the radiator cracked caused it to overheat and blow the head gasket and warp the head. Repaired that and compression is fine now. It ran great for 4 months but now it randomly stalls. at or near idle. Seems to do it more at operating temp rather then cold. Occasionally the check engine light will pop on and the code reads (random misfire). It acts just like it has been shut off. But immediately restarts.
View 3 RepliesI just bought a used 2004 Elantra that has 97,000 miles on it. When I took the vehicle out for a test drive it was smooth and quite. That was on Monday its now Saturday less than 300 miles later and the check engine light came on and it is having serious hesitation issues?! I am going to take it back where I purchased it from on Monday when they open but in the meantime I would like to know if its could be something simple?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2004 standard Elantra GT. I had to get an emissions test and the CEL light will not stay off. My garage replaced two valves in the fuel tank and the neck to the tank and have done numerous "smoke tests" but can't find the leak. Now they are saying there is something wrong with the computer. They got it to stay off long enough to pass the test, but the light's on again. I see that there was a recall issued because of the cracked exhaust manifold, I think I had the catalytic converter replaced up at the cottage.
View 4 RepliesI recently replaced the timing belt, water pump, tensioner, all accessory belts. Made sure timing marks were spot on, did the 2 revolutions of the engine by hand, tensioner pointer was still in window per instructions. I noticed right after the car seemed not as responsive, or zippy, but did start and run fine for 340 miles. Than out of nowhere, it became hard to start, acting like it was out of time, so I removed top timing cover, doubled checked, everything, I even went as far as advancing the timing belt 1 tooth, than rotating engine by hand, than trying to start the vehicle. It still acted the same way, so I tried retarding it 1 tooth back from the original position, still the same issue. So I reinstalled it back to the correct position with, white crank mark @ TDC, and cam pulley hole lined up with the red painted groove in the cylinder head. Installed tensioner per Gates instructions, attempted to start, after 3 or 4 10 second cranks car will start and purr like nothing is wrong, take it for a test drive approximately 1 mile, car starts bucking, came back home. Pulled codes, tells me P2626 for o2 sensor.
View 4 RepliesMy 2005 Elantra GlS Hatch's CEL light has been coming on and off. Mostly on now, because of course it is 1 month away from needing emissions checked. I am getting 2 codes------ P2626 and P0139 . The first one is the upper O2 sensor and the second was is for the lower O2 sensor.
The problem is that I replaced the upper sensor a year ago because of the same CEL code. The lower sensor was replaced in 2009 ish under warranty. Why these O2 sensors are going bad so quick?
One of my guesses is that my wife only drives the car about 6 miles round trip to work and the car never reaches proper temperature. She never drives on the hwy but lately I've been driving it to work on the hwy and she drives our new 2013 Elantra. The 2005 only has 51,000 miles.
I recently bought elantra 2004 gls, with 107k mileage.
Few days ago the check engine light came on while I was driving it. The next day it went off. This happened today also. I didn't notice anything wrong with the car, no smell, tranny fluid is recent, oil change 2.5k ago.
The code was p0501, speed sensor.
I keep getting the same code for the check engine light of P0128. I have replaced the thermostat twice and the ECT sensor already. I do know know what else I can do for getting this fixed. I have checked the fans and they are working correctly. I have also checked to make sure there is nothing wrong with the head gasket. My car does not over heat, but it does take forever for the temperature gauge to rise. This is for a 2006 Hyundai Elantra. What else I can do?
View 2 RepliesAutoZone provided this code for my check engine light: P0010.
Definition: Intake camshaft position actuator circuit open
Explanation: ECM has detected a low voltage on the VCT circuit
Probable Cause: 1) Open or short circuit condition on the VCT circuit; 2) failed VCT solenoid
Is there a part I can replace myself that can fix this, or is this a dealer repair?
In the last month, my car has had an awful time starting on 2 different occasions. The first time it ran really rough for about 1 minute then was ok. The second time was the same but the engine light came on. Took it to an out of town dealer and he said it showed a misfire code but could never find anything else and all looked OK. Spark plugs?
View 4 RepliesMy Girlfriend just got a 2003 Hyundai Elantra and everything was running great on it the first month she had it BUT the check engine light was on.. After about a month she called me up while driving and said that the check engine light was blinking and the car would hardly move. So I got to the car and looked at it and I noticed the oil filter was a little loose so I tightened it good this time and added a little bit of oil. It actually moved but it would hesitate. So we had it towed to a shop and they read the codes from the check engine light and told us it was leaking oil from the motor some where (not specific) and it also needed a new O2 sensor.
So I replaced the catalytic converter underneath the car and also a new sensor along with a new set of spark plugs. It ran alot better and I left it at that. Now about a week later she was coming home and noticed that when she turned left or right that the battery light and brake light on the dash came on. She drove it home and when she turned in the driveway the car went dead. It started right back up and we got it to the house and left it over night. I went out this morning and again it started right up. but when I lifted the hood I noticed the belts on the pulleys were all spinning very slowly. I'm not sure if it could be a timing chain or if it just needs new pulleys.
While I am driving the car it will start to die and skip. Happens randomly. Today I was driving up a small hill and it went quits on me started lurching with check engine light coming on and off. The car will turn over and start, but only for a few seconds before dying again.
Seems to happen when the car is running for a while. Also the ABS light flashes on then off randomly while driving sometimes although It hasn't been an issue. Will be checking tomorrow to see if it starts.
I've replace the input and output transmission speed sensors on my 01 GLS. check engine light is on again for 2 P0501 codes. There is no abs speed sensor on the left side but there is on the right side which doesn't look like it is seated correctly. The transmission is still shifting kinda funny sometimes. Should I have abs speed sensors on both sides? And what else should I do to fix the random erratic shifting?
View 3 RepliesMy check engine light came on in my 2005 Elantra. During the course of trying to find out why I realized that my transmission fluid was a little low. I went to Walmart and got a bottle of the multi vehicle fluid the auto counter man said it needed. I did come online to check to see if that was the right fluid before putting it in and see that evidently the specs are very specific for what type of transmission fluid to use.
View 4 RepliesHave an 01 elantra as a second car and it's great. Just recently tho the check engine light came on and I've got a few codes that make sense since there has been some odd issues with it in the past month or so.
02 sensor CKT bank 1 sensor 2 (slow response)
shift solenoid D malfunction
shift solenoid C malfunction
shift solenoid B malfunction
Trans range circuit malfunction (PRNDL input)
So I know the 02 sensor needs to be replaced, that's fine. I'm more concerned about the rest of the codes because when cruising around 40mph the car tries to shift to 4th gear or something like that, it will bog down because the rpm is too low (maybe its overdrive, not sure).
That's a minor issue but has been there since we got the car over the summer, the bigger issue is the last couple of days, i've noticed that when driving the car around the city, slow down - turning - and then accelerating the engine/trans will buck harshly a few good times before it smoothens out, my guess is the gear change didn't go well.
As the title says I have plugged a code reader in and it says "cyclinder three misfire". So I pulled the plugs and good god they were nasty. Some having a gap of 80-90 thousandths of an inch. So I figured the plugs were the source of the problem, thus I replaced them but to my dimise the check engine light is still on, and still reading the same ol' "cyclinder three misfire". I have put 350 miles on it in 24 hours of changing it to allow for proper time of the circuit cycling for the light to change but not sure if it takes longer...?
I also went ahead and checked the plug wires resistance when I had the plugs pulled and they ranged from 1.5-2.5k ohms shortest to longest (cylinder 4-1). And if your curious the magic cylinder three was around 2k ohms for however long that wire is, my guess would be 18 inches. Would this be out of tolerance, I know the norm is 10k ohm for every 12 inches or so...?
My next guess would be replacing the power pack or I guess you car guys call it the "ignition coil"...? I will say that the car does run much smoother after replacing the plugs.
I just purchased my first foreign car ever. it is a 2002 Elantra it idles very rough changed plugs using NGK and wires new fuel filter and ran 2 full tanks of high grade fuel with STP fuel injector cleaner. but had no effect on idle also have no check or service engine light. What to check next?
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