Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2004 - Brake Pedal Won't Depress
Sep 13, 2010
I've been having a randomly recurring problem with my 2004 Hyundai Elantra for several months now. I'll be driving along and will notice that my brake pedal won't depress. When I step off of the accelerator, it is like the brakes are already engaged. Eventually, the brake pedal won't depress at all and the car acts like the brakes are fully engaged. Sometimes I can let it sit for an hour or several hours and the brakes will readjust and I can move again. So far I have replaced both calipers, rotors, 2 brake hoses and the master cylinder, but I am still having this problem. My mechanic is flummoxed. Any time I have the car towed in, the brakes release by the time it arrives and he has no problem to observe.
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I have an issue that i have been trying to resolve. When i depress the brake lightly to a stop, the pedal pulsates. But if I depress a little harder it pulsates initially midway down and then it stops as i press harder to brake. (I hope this is easy to understand). so... press lightly, pulsates until I reach a stop. press firmly, pulsates briefly, then no pulsation until i reach a stop.
I have pretty much replaced everything. Calipers, rotors, pads, lnes, fluid, hardware. lugs are torqued to 100ftlbs.
Also the caliper is not sticking the problem persists even after I replaced the calipers. I am left at a total loss here. I cant think of anything else. One thing that i noticed is, the LUGS are really hot to the touch after driving it for 15 min or so.
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New 2013 Elantra owner here.. When initially depressing the brake pedal lightly (before the brake pads engage, usually in stop-and-go traffic), I can feel a rubbing sensation coming from somewhere in the pedal assembly. If it's quiet, I can also hear a groaning sound. This definitely isn't a pad/rotor issue, rather something closer to the pedal itself and inside or near the cabin.
Took it to the dealership and after some coaxing and insistence that it wasn't "normal," they finally said it was the brake switch and replaced it. Seemed to alleviate the problem for a week or so, but now it's back!
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2001 Ex limited 4x2 w/50k miles-- The parking brake pedal will not depress...at all....not even a millimeter. Feels like it is "locked".
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I have a 2003 Prius that I have had about 4 years. It has under 80,000 miles on it and I have the Ecrostech Scanner which I have had for about 3 years. For the time I have had the Ecrostech I have noticed times when the regenerative braking was not working when I would depress the brake pedal. I understand the regen does not work from about 7 mph and below but my system often does not work even when it is above that speed. I have not been able to force it into regen. It seems to have a mind of its own as in perhaps a faulty ecu.
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2001 2.0
251,xxx km
Noticed here lately that my brake pedal is depressing further, and can go to the floor if I press it hard enough.
If I press the pedal quick (panic stop) it engages quickly and in the correct spot (I can feel the front tires almost lock up) then it depresses more almost to the floor. the brakes still work perfect however.
What should I try first?
I use my hand brake, and have pumped the brakes and pulled the handbrake to set the rear pistons in place.
I replaced the two rear calipers about a year and a half ago and bled them obviously. Have not bled the front brakes and will do that, but was just looking for more insight, and common problems, vacuum leak, etc.
Reservoir is full as well, and no brake line leaks that I know of.
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Having an issue with my brake pedal. When the car sits for long periods of time, usually overnight, the brake pedal is extremely hard to depress. I have to really press down hard in order to start the ignition. Took it into my dealership, and they actually said there was a TSB issued for something to do with the brakes. Well, evidently, they fixed it, but the issue came back almost immediately, only this time it's worse. The brake pedal firms up after 3-4 hours of sitting.
Brakes feel fine once the ignition is turned on. I was told there's no issue with driving it, but I'm not so sure I trust what I was told.
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So I noticed this has happened a few times.. If I press on the brake pedal too hard, the indicator light will come on and then turn off a few moments after I depress the brake pedal. This has happened when the car is stationary as well as when I was coming to a stop, it's happened maybe 5 times since I picked the car up a few weeks ago. Is this normal behavior or an indication of a problem? Just an FYI, I'm not talking about when the indicators light up when first starting the car.. This is tied strictly to pressing the brake pedal hard.
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2007 Accent pedal won't depress. Bearing making noise for a few months. Is tranny snout toast or is it fixable?
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So - I'm sitting at my VW dealership, hoping that their can figure out why I'm getting a high pitched, miserable squealing sound, every time I depress my brake pedal. It's metallic sounding, and with the history of brake issues I've had in owning other VW models, I just figured it was the brake pads they use. Sounds like their tech believes it is an issue with the tires??? I've got an 04 Phaeton with roughly 38K miles on it - and it's supposedly "certified"....
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I have a 2003 Mustang. The front brakes are new, and back brakes are OK. When I stop at a stop light, and depress the brake pedal firmly, the car continues to creep forward. I have to put it in neutral or park to get the car to a standstill.
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Have an 07 gs350 awd and lately the pedal feels stiff and doesn't depress all the way down at startup. Sometimes the steering wheel will go back up as if I have just stopped the car and occasionally I will get the message on the dashboard that I need to press the brake pedal at startup even though I am doing that. Dealership claims they can't duplicate problem and don't know what it could be.
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Got Elantra GT 6 month ago. Good car, but it seems I have a very common problem of Elantras - lost of brakes. My car has TCS, but no ABS. It started 4 month ago. Car is fine for several weeks, but then within two days brake pedal getting from bad to worse. My mechanic already replaced master cylinder and right rear caliper. Did not work. Yesterday it was third time when I almost (very soft pedal) lost brakes. Today in Hyundai dealer service they bled the brakes and said "that they hope it will work". Their mechanic found air in both (left and right) rear brake lines. So, my question if I have a leak in, say, left line will it propagate to the right line? I am asking because I do not know the hydraulic schema of the brakes and want to collect as much info as possible.
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I have been working on my 01 Elantra for 2 days now. My problem is that I have absolutely no brake pedal at all, it just goes right to the floor. and this is only when the car is running, when it is off I give it a quick pump and i have a nice firm pedal. I installed a new master cylinder, bench bled it and all that jazz. I replaced the rear brakes and a wheel cylinder, I have also bled the brakes multiple times, and mutliple ways. bled the master while on the car and all the brakes while the car is off and while it is running. I dont know what else could be wrong with this. I looked at all the lines and there are no wet spots, no hoses are swelling up. everything looks top notch...i just have no brakes why.
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Very recently the brake pedal in my car has been stiff (won't depress all of the way down) after starting up the car when it's been sitting for a while. It takes a few presses of pedal for it to feel normal again.
I did some research and turned up a vacuum leak as a possible cause. I also wondered if a flush/bleed would be a possible fix for something like this.
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I have a 2004 Elantra GLS. My left rear brake was hanging (wheel was very hot to the touch after driving, while other wheels were not), so I had a friend check the brake pads. We decided to replace the pads and rotors. While doing so, the parking brake seemed stuck in the on position, so I opted to have him disconnect it completely until I could afford to replace it. I had used it for the first time about 2 weeks before I noticed the hot brake problem, so we figured that must have been why the brake was hanging.
My friend replaced the rotors and pads, put some penetrant/lubricant on the piston of the caliper and reassembled the brakes. He did use the special tool to spin the caliper in when putting the pads on, however he didn't know that was necessary and tried to force them in with a C-clamp first.
Now, I seem to have two problems:
1. The left rear brake still hangs sometimes. I will drive the car and when I park it I can feel the heat coming off of the left rear wheel. It is extremely hot, so I know the brake is hanging (even with the parking brake disconnected). What is the problem here? Is the caliper bad? Would replacing the caliper solve the problem? Does the parking brake have to be connected to stop the caliper from hanging up?
2. My second problem is the pulsating of the brakes. I am afraid the rotor is warped because of the heat, or maybe he didn't clean everything well enough before he put the new rotor on. How can I figure out what the problem is? Is there a way to check a rotor to see if it is warped? Could there be another reason I feel the pulsating brakes? By the way, the brake fluid is full.
If the caliper needs to be replaced and I can leave the parking brake disconnected, are there any special instructions my friend should know about before working on this? He does work on a lot of cars and rebuilds cars to sell, so he is pretty knowledgeable. I think the only thing he didn't know about was rotating the piston. I would like to provide him with detailed instructions if necessary.
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Soft Pedal. 2004 Santa Fe, front wheel drive 4cyl, 2.4l
When I first owned this Santa Fe the brake pedal was high and had lots of stopping power, over the last few years I noticed the pedal was getting lower. I have replaced everything needed thus far including pads, rotors and everything has recently been serviced front/rear/emergency brake/ calipers and still a soft pedal. Had the guys in our recon shop replace master cylinder and bleed the lines a few times with a full week in between bleeding to ensure there was no air in the lines. The mechanics are stumped but I'm wondering if we missed something...... I still can stop no problem but there is no grab in brakes until pedal is half way down to the floor or worse.
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I have a 2004 Santa Fe 3.5L 4WD. It's been running rough on occasion for quite a while now, but it's only been an occasional thing. I replaced the front passenger side axle and went for a test drive and the vehicle was barely running. I put the throttle to the floor and it does nothing more than idle. I barely made it home and am afraid to pull it out of the drive. I started it up this morning and it seemed to be idling just fine. I pushed the brake to put it in gear and it started stumbling. When I put it in gear, same thing, pedal not doing hardly anything.
The check engine light did come on and I had a buddy bring down a scanner to check it. I don't know if these are Hyundai specific codes or not, but here's what he pulled: P1110, P2127, P1173, and P1192. I'm thinking throttle position sensor, but am unsure. I've put a lot of time and money into this vehicle lately. I've spent some money and a lot of time trying to figure out why it was showing abs and traction control lights. Turned out to be the exciter ring on the axle was broke.
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I need to do a brake job on the front of my 04 Elantra, how to reset the caliper piston. I've tried the traditional c-clamp method but can't get the clamp to grip well on the non-pad side because of the caliper shape.
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I have an 04 elantra 2.0. Seems to idle rough when in D and foot on brake at the the lights etc. Put it into N roughness goes away.
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Ok so I had this creaking noise at first when I press n depress the gas pedal (how normal driving should be) and I sprayed some WD40 and now the noise is gone, but it becomes kind of sticky when pressing and depressing.
It's like when u rub ur finger on a glass window back and forth, there is time when it catches ur finger (sticks) before u can move it the opposite way, it's not smooth as it used to be (my other camrys are smooth).
When pressing a little, then a little more, it has that sticky feel, same thing when depressing the pedal. That's the best I can explain it and it is really noticeable when I'm stuck in traffic.
Do u think I have a bad pedal or some white lithium grease will take care of this?
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