Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2004 - AC Not Blowing Cold At Idle
Jun 17, 2012
04 Elantra GLS, AC works great and is icy cold at higher RPMs but gets hot when stopped at idle or driving low speed. Fan works, refrigerant level is correct. At low idle speeds the compressor just shuts off. A few minutes later or if the engine speed picks up it will engage and start cooling again. AC tech didn't think it was the compressor since the pressure difference between the high and low sides was in the correct range. Has this issue fixed by replacing the pressure sensor/switch on the high pressure side? It doesn't look like there is a low pressure side sensor that I can see.
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I'm having a problem with my 2003 Elantra. Occasionally it hesitates (acts like it is going to run out of gas). When it does this the a/c stops blowing cold. Lasts for 3-4 minutes. Most recent time it had 1/2 tank of gas. I also have a problem putting gas in. I have to fill it very slowly or the gas pump will keep clicking off. I don't know if they are related or not. What fuel problem will affect the a/c?
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My 05 Elantra 2.0, 5 speed won't idle when cold til I drive it a few hundred feet. It will stall. Only then will the idle rise to what it's supposed to be. Is there some sort of cold idle sensor/module that needs replacing?
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It was blowing cold and stopped. Minutes later it started again and then stopped. This went on for a week and then stopped altogether. Car has 190,000 miles. Is it compressor, clutch or relay....
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As the title says the 2004 Elantra only has a/c at idle and low speed. It started with the a/c stopping, and a mechanic gave me as story about the wiring going to the compressor being faulty. He jumped a wire from the drivers side fan to the compressor. It turned on the compressor and I had cold air again. or so i thought.
Now, it's cold at idle or slow around town stuff, but as soon as I get on the highway it stops working and blows outside temp air. Is it the compressor? If not, I wondered if the fan (drivers side) is turning at highway speeds and not back on till I stop.
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I have an '04 Elantra GLS with 274k on it. I've been caring for it myself with basic maintenance; that said, I changed the oil in it about 100 miles ago. Halfway through my drive home it started to idle rough under 1k rpm.
I've noticed a lot of other Hyundai's have the same issue. What would be/is the most COMMON cause of this? Timing belt? Basic tune up? I moved a state away from my local shop and I refuse to go to a Midas/Jiffy/ect.
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I have an 04 elantra 2.0. Seems to idle rough when in D and foot on brake at the the lights etc. Put it into N roughness goes away.
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So it's finally been nice this week, only problem was it was Humid as it poured for more than 24 hrs the day before. I tried using my Ac but all it was doing was blowing warm air. I figured it was the car being hot since it it black and it was sunny & I did have the car running. I tried using the Ac yesterday and it was blowing slightly colder air but still warm. I don't know what the problem is and so I went to my moms elantra to compare since we have the exact car just different colors and her car was blowing air as if it was straight from the arctic.
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My 2008 Elantra blows cold air, but just not as hard as it used to. At max setting, it's not blowing hard enough.
Also, my steering wheel starts to shake pretty bad going 70+ mph. What could be the problem for this?
I don't know the first thing about cars!
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I have a 2011 Elantra and the air conditioning is not blowing cold air. I checked the system pressure with the AC running and get 83 psi on the low side and 85 psi on the high side. I have not found any documentation about what the correct readings should be...
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2002 Passat v6 - climatronic control...
I have just cold air blowing at idle and under load. I have read posts and checked the following: temp remains at 190, heater coil hoses-both are hot and removed the dash to see if the flapper door (red arm) was moving-it is. Any other things I can check?
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I have a 2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS. Yesterday my air conditioner was working fine. Fully charged. Was very cold. Today it's blowing hot air?
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2007 GS 350 109,500 miles. My heater was blowing cold at idle and warm when driving so I took it to dealer. To my surprise, dealer says its a blown head gasket. No other symptoms. No white smoke, no smells, no warning lights on dash, and running fine. Just had VVT gear recall done last week.
Fortunately I have Lexus extended warranty good thru 125k miles and Feb 2014. I do my own maintenance (plugs, oil changes etc). Have records for all. But have not done coolant change (due at 100k).
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My '06 GS450h has developed a fault where the heater blows cold at idle and low revs but blows warm when driving or revving the engine at a standstill. The coolant hasn't dropped at all and the car never goes above halfway on the temp gauge. Its starting to get frustrating now the cold weather has set in and temps dropping! Long journeys are ok as at high speeds it stays warm but short journeys are uncomfortable!
I just had a feel of the rad hoses and hoses that go into the matrix (engine side of bulk head) and matrix hoses feel warm (both of them), the top hose to the rad is warm but not hot and bottom hose is cold suggesting the stat hasn't opened yet. Its cold outside so getting the car up to temp is quite difficult without a long drive (rush hour at the mo).
Still I just had the car parked on the drive and cranked the heater up to max and held the accelerator for a while and super warm air blows out. The engine cuts back out as "normal operating temp" has been reached for battery mode and then the heater goes cool again! Still the bottom radiator hose is cool and top hose not massively warm. It has never overheated thus far and I drive 150miles a day back and forth to Reading from Cheltenham 4 nights a week.
Only thing I can think of is a sticky thermostat or water pump not operating sufficiently enough to circulate the water? Its getting colder and short trips where it used to blow warm air nice and quickly (within 3-5miles) are becoming unpleasant!
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I have a 01 Jeep and the AC is not blowing cold air. When I went to get my oil changed they did a check over and said that it is in working order just lacks any freon to get it cold. So I went to get a bottle to do it myself. Doing what it said to do on the bottle I got nothing. The meter says that there is pressure in the system, but no cold air coming out. I noticed that it would engage and then stop after a second, but still will not fully engage or blow cold air.
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I have this weird problem where my cars blows air at all speeds but the AC and heater doesn't work, what it could be? Maybe blower motor relay?
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'01 Jetta IV GLS AC not blowing cold air:
1. Blower works on all 1,2,3,4 settings
2. Cabin Air Filter Clean
3. When AC button pressed, I see the Compressor turns and noted the clutch also engaged.
4. AC Fan near Radiator comes on
5. Blend Door seems to be working fine - fixed the problem of spitting foam without opening up the heater box.
6. Since the above electrical parts seem to be working, I suppose it could not be a relay issue.
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I currently own a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe with 135,000K miles on it, and have had continual problems with the A/C not blowing cold over the last year or so.
A year ago, took it to what I thought was a reputable mechanic (not a dealer) who diagnosed the problem as a "bad" master circuit board. Thing ran fine for about 6 months, then started to intermittently blow warm air, until it finally quit blowing cold.
Finally broke down and took it to the dealer hoping they would be able to fix the problem. They charged me $110 and told me the refrigerant was low so they topped it off. 6 weeks later, once again not blowing cold, took it back. They said this time they found a "leak" in the refrigerant hose, replaced the hose, topped off the refrigerant, and sent me on my way (free of charge, of course, since they should have fixed it the first time).
Well...6 weeks later and once again, not blowing cold, so back to the dealer I go. Once again, they said the hose was "leaking" and they did the dye test (shouldn't they have done this the first time?) and replaced the hose, and the refrigerant. Good for another 6 weeks, then once again, not blowing cold.
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I have a 2001 Ford Taurus I bourg a month ago. The dealer I bought it from replaced the air compressor on June 29. Today I had been in my car for a couple of minutes and was stopped at a stop light when my car idle increased and all of a sudden I heard a high pitched screeching sound. The a/c immediately quit blowing cold air. I turned the a/c immediately to vent and continued to drive home. After raising the good once I got home, I could see a bunch of what looked like rubber and oil shavings down under the compressor. What may have happened?
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I'm having trouble with my saab wagon blowing hot and cold at the same time. It generally occurs when the outside temp is within 10 degrees of the temp setting on the car. Now during the summer the drivers side will blow cold and the passenger side hot. I'm thinking it may be the solar sensor on the dash. Driving in this condition is not only uncomfortable but also highly embarrassing when I have a passenger.
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2001 Ford Windstar rear auxiliary unit will not blow hot or cold air. The front system works fine with very cold or very hot air as needed.The system has been in this state for the past four years.Last month I had a local shop evacuate the refrigerant and then I replaced the following A/C components (compressor, front orifice tube, rear expansion valve, receiver dryer, and condenser). The shop then recharged the system and the front blows ice cold air...amazing! Unfortunately the rear system just doesn't want to blow any air, hot or cold. To date I have completed the following checks:
Relays
- Front cabin relays #3 and #6 were swapped with no change to front system.
- Rear unit relays make a clicking sound when either front or rear control panels set blower motor speed.
-- I swapped out with front and rear cabin blower motor relays with no change to front blower motor.
Engine Compartment - Both 40A fuses were checked (117 & 120).They are supposed to be 40A fuses but my box had 50A in both places.It had been like this for years with both systems working fine up until the rear unit ceased working.(NOTE: maybe this is coincidence but when I changed these from 50A to 40A my son noticed that some of the rear tail lights stopped working. in fact all of them associated with fuse #7 located in the passenger cabin.)
Fuses - all related fuses were checked and are fine.As noted above the distribution box fuses were changed from 50A to 40A with no detrimental effect on the front system working.
Front Control Panel
- Heat and air work fine (blower and temp controls)
- Front control panel appears to change rear unit temperature setting but only one of blend door actuators adjust when changing temperature setting
-- The one closest to the blower motor does not function.The one that directs air to floor or ceiling functions properly.
-- Shouldn't they move together based on the temp setting?
- Front control panel blower motor settings only result in hearing a clicking noise for each setting.
- Setting front control panel to REAR CTRL allows rear control panel to function.
Rear Control Panel
- Temperature settings - same result as front control panel with blend door actuators.
- Blower motor settings - same result as front control panel.
Rear Auxiliary Unit
- Expansion valve makes a hissing sound on A/C or Defrost settings.
- Blower motor was removed and benched tested for operation.
-- Electrical connection looks fine and seats snug.
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