Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2003 Won't Start After Engine Heats Up
Jun 9, 2016
So my temporary solution has been taking the gas cap off for 10-15 seconds, I suppose so that the tank can release any excess pressure. Then the car starts fine. This has worked pretty much every time. If I don't do this I could end up waiting for about 15 minutes before the car starts up again. They must be related. Is there anyway that the tank pressure isn't being vented properly?
I've replaced the thermostat, the ect sensor, the crank sensor, the fuel assembly, I've cleaned the injectors and replaced the fuel tank pressure sensor.
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I recently traded my mk1 for a 2001 jetta vr6 and though it was running fine the first few days, it now seems to die when the engine heats up. The check engine light and battery light turn on when it dies but turn back off when it cools down. I ruled out the battery variable by getting a brand new one (old one was 5 years old anyway) and the alternator is reading healthy voltages.
I've seen a lot about the crank position sensor (engine speed sensor) and I suspected that was my problem so I took it to an auto parts store and waited for it to die to pull the codes. The codes were P0201, P0205, P0203, P0206, P0444, P1473(?), P0418, and P0413.
The first ones said "fuel injector open circuit" and the others were all saying something about the evap system. I was wondering if these codes related to the crank position sensor or if there's something else I need to worry about. I may have stepped a little bit out of my league with this car and I'm at a dead end.
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When it heats up and expands, I often hear a faint "pop" from the muffler. Same thing when I shut the car off and it cools down and contracts. Kind of like denting a pop can with your thumb.
Doesn't really bother me, just curious. It's kind of a funny quirk. Will try to take a video clip of it. Usually does it within 30 seconds of shutting it down.
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I just purchased an '01 Elantra a few days ago. The car starts and runs when the engine is cool, although it hesitates during acceleration, and when it's warm outside it bounces between 1000 and 2000 RPM in neutral and park. The last day or so it's been chilly and the idle has been steady, but low (500 RPM). Once the engine warms up, however, if you shut it off for a few minutes and try to restart it cranks but won't start until the engine cools off.
The previous owner replaced the fuel pump, cam sensor, crank sensor, spark plugs and wires, and I replaced the intake gasket and the idle air control valve, all with no effect. I can hear the fuel pump when I key it on, and I've checked for spark at each of the plugs, and even pulled the injectors and cranked it a few times to be sure that they were firing. Everything seems to be in working order.
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2003 elentra. yesterday my friend went to start her car and it wouldn't start. she said it sounded like a baseball card in bike spokes. later that night they tried it again and gave it gas while starting it. it started right up. the car runs fine after they get it started. the check engine light isn't on. and there is increase scent of gas while driving it.
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I got this car 5 months ago for my sister and it run well until recently. The car has 117k miles on it but a couple of weeks ago she said she had problems starting it. It did start the next day (she did nothing) and had no problems for a few more days. A day later she said smoke came from the hood and it stopped. I came out a few days later and try to start it and it started on the first key turn. Saw no sign of smoke or anything that caught fire. Notice the radiator water was low so I turned it off to put water in it and it would not start back up not even with a jump. I placed the scanner on it and no codes were listed. Took the battery to get tested and it failed so I got a new one. Tried starting it again and it still will not turn over.
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I just recently had a new (used) gas tank and new fuel lines (front to rear) put on the car.
On the first fill-up, I pulled out from the gas station, drove 20 seconds to the next red light. The car stalled (automatic transmission) when I came to a stop. It was hard to start and hard to keep going, and had intermittent periods of extreme power loss when I drove it down the highway.
Took it back to the shop, there was an engine code for the O2 Sensor, so the O2 was replaced, but made no difference. They checked fuel pressure and the catalytic converter, both were fine. They wanted me to keep driving it until another code came up.
As the tank neared empty, the car started driving almost perfectly. Filled it up again, and the problems started all over again. I have tried driving it with the gas cap off to make sure air can get in to replace the gas, but made no difference.
I changed the spark plugs, and all 4 of the old ones were covered in black carbon from the fuel running too rich (i assume).
Also, when the car is idling and it starts struggling, the exhaust does smell extremely strongly and is grey.
Now, engine code [P1166 O2S Controller Adaption Diagnosis Malfunction (bank 1)] is appearing (I have to check with the garage monday to see if it is the same code they had earlier).
I'm not sure why a new tank would cause this, unless somehow dirt/rust ended up where it didn't belong during the changeover.
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So I recently bought a Hyundai Elantra Gt 2003 that I totally love. But ever since I bought it, it struggles to turn on. It makes a cranking noise before it turns on, and it takes about 2 to 3 times for it to fully turn on. I changed the crank shaft sensor and the fuel pump. What can it be?
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This issue has only happened twice to me.
I go out to start the car, it cranks and cranks and cranks. I stop turning the key. I then try again and it hesitates to starts. I give it a little gas and it starts. When it does this, the car begins running very rough and idling rough. When I give it a little gas while it's parked, the check engine light begins flashing at me.
I turned the car off and came back to it the next morning (maybe 10 hours apart). It started right up no problem, no CEL either.
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Gauge/Sensor Problem ??? Great oil pressure on start up (40-60 PSI) but as car heats up, gauge SAYS pressure is dropping below 20 PSI. Dip stick says plenty of oil and filter is brand new. No knocking from valves either.
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So here's the synopsis: My girlfriend's 2001 Ford Escape V6 4x4 with 196,000 miles had the check engine light come on two weeks ago. The code read : running lean and misfire in 4/6. Changed all plugs and coils, engine light was still on, still running lean and there's a vacuum leak. Changed all intake gaskets, light went out. NOW it's sputtering and the exhaust manifold turns cherry red (clogged cat). Changed the front cat & Y pipe, remove back cat. Also replaced muffler and resonator. Car STILL sputters and idles around 200 rpm. Now it stalls when turning around or coming to a full stop, and exhaust manifold still heats up enough to turn cherry red. Why this is happening?
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I have a 2003 Elantra GLS. I am intermittently Check Engine light and error code is P0113 - Air Intake sensor issue. I can't locate where the sensor is. I don't see any wire coming of the tubing that connects the air filter to the engine.
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My Ford Ranger has an intermittent problem with rough or no starts (usually when hot) for 2 years now. Numerous mechanics and no one can solve the issue - the CEL is on, sometimes engine will sputter, run rough and go really slow if I try to press on gas (almost like flooding out) but then it will lurch, CEL goes off, and runs great. Worse when hot outside or after driving - sometimes no start at all, but after many attempts, or once cool it will turn over. Had crank sensor replaced, still have issue - could it be failing fuel pump?
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I have a 1994 Saturn SL and ever since I bought it a few years ago it has been overheating in traffic but does just fine when I am driving without the stop and go. About a year ago 2 of the cylinders blew and I had to spend $700 to replace the now shot motor with a rebuilt one. Well the engine still heats up. I tried replacing the cooling sensor a few weeks ago and still no change. It really sucks because the only thing that keeps it from totally overheating is if I put the heater on full blast. And considering it's almost summer I really want to get this thing fixed. Using the A/C only makes it overheat worse, and will make my engine stop if I keep it running while stopped for a few minutes at a time like at a stop light.
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I have a 2001 Econoline and the turn signals work in the morning but when the vehicle warms up they stop working. I have replaced the bulbs and the fuses. What I could try next.
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We recently changed the timing belt & serpentine belt & new alternator. Drove great for 2 days. Then car would stall out when idling, had rough idle. We replaced the Crankshaft position sensor (got one from the dealer) & the electrical connector. The engine cranks but won't start. The only code we're getting is P0335. We've checked all the fuses. Fuel pump starts when turning on the key. We've been a week without a car and trying to come up with something.
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This weekend I was one a trip in my '98 Civic, and I noticed some movement in my temperature gauge. It didn't really overheat; the needle never got near the red, but it did go a little higher than usual.
Normally, once the engine heats up, the needle on the temperature gauge doesn't move, not even a little. It sits right under the squiggly lines on the temperature gauge icon. However, on Friday, when I got off the highway, the needle rose into the upper part of the icon, to the part with the thermometer.
As soon as the car started moving, the needle on the temperature gauge went back to its normal spot, so I assumed it was a problem with the radiator fan and I kept on driving, prepared to turn on the heat if the needle on the temperature gauge started going up.
Saturday morning I took the car to a local shop in Jacksonville, and it turns out the engine needed a new fan and a new thermostat.
The first lesson that comes to mind is that keeping an eye on my temp gauge might have saved me an engine. It certainly saved me a head gasket. Since a head gasket or new engine would have been worth more than the car, catching this before it became a problem saved me from having to buy another car.
The next lesson is that my Civic had two things wrong with the cooling system, and yet it barely showed any symptoms. The air conditioner doesn't work I guess since a working A/C would probably have made it overheat. In any case, I've probably been driving without a working radiator fan for some time.
The final lesson is that if I had tried to diagnose this myself, I'd probably be driving around with a new radiator fan and a bad thermostat. I paid about $435 for a new fan, thermostat, and fresh coolant (I declined the cooling system flush) and it was worth every penny.
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I have a 2000 Ford Taurus V6 DOHC w/170K miles. When engine heats up, oil pressure light comes on, but only when RPM fall below 1500 or at idle. There is a burnt smell sometimes after driving the car. I do not see froth or coolant in the oil. Car burns a little oil, but no more than it has been for the last 50K miles. Just had oil and filter changed 300 miles ago; I was using 10W-30 but I believe the mechanic used 5W-30. (Also, if I drive more than 45 minutes, the "low coolant" light comes on-- however, the engine is not overheating, and the radiator/reservoir are full.) What part(s) I should order first? Oil pressure sensor? Oil pump? (If at all possible, I need to repair myself, as I simply cannot afford my mechanic's hourly rates right now.)
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I have a 2001 F150 step side 4.6L that just stopped turning over to start. The engine rocks slightly when you turn the key, then nothing but a little electrical smell. Was starting fine up to this past week. Battery is strong and good and upper battery connections clean, has original starter solenoid. I am a weekend mechanic, my son's work truck, trying to do this myself.
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This concerns a 2003 Hyundai Santa Fe 2.7L engine.
Bad rain, combined with a puddle splash caused a short (someplace). Vehicle ran poorly on way home and then eventually failed to start. Replaced the Cam Position Sensor and the Crankshaft Position Sensor. Checked all wiring and connections. Cleared codes and the vehicle started. Ran for about 15/20 minutes and a P0340 code popped with the engine light on. Car still runs fine. Researched code and learned that this code is a Camshaft Position Sensor A - Circuit Malfunction.
1. Bad ground in Circuit.
2. Open Circuit that fails to close.
3. PCM malfunction.
Questions:
1. Where in this vehicles is the PCM located? Is it within the main ECU in one of the other ECU fuses or an independent fuse?
2. Other than the 3 issues listed above, could I be overlooking anything else?
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I own a 2002 Hyundai Elantra and I was driving it it started decelerating but my foot was on the gas and it died I tried starting it but it did not start. we tried spraying starting filed in the engine and still nothing.
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