Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2003 - Sputtering After O2 Sensor Swap
Feb 21, 2012
My 03 Elantra GLS was throwing an error code that my reader said was the upstream O2 sensor (before the CC in the manifold) and the #3 plug. I swapped it out at the same time that I changed out the spark plug and spark plug wires and the thermostat housing.
The thermostat housing installation all looks good. There are no leaks/drips anywhere near it and all seems good.
The problem is that, after clearing the codes and taking the car for a test run, all seems good until I get it to the point where it is about to shift into 3rd or I've reached about 20-40 MPH. At this point, the engine sounds like it is gasping for air and ready to cut off. If I pull over for a moment, I am able to get going again until I reach those same conditions. I've even had the gas pedal floored and the car won't move during these times and the CEL is now back on saying that the brand new O2 sensor is the problem again (the codes for the #3 plug are no longer showing).
I did remove the battery cable to reset the codes in case my reader wasn't fully clearing them and verified that the fuses related to the ECM/ECU were all good.
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I am new to Hyundai. I just picked up a 2003 Elantra and I'm doing a couple fixes to it. When I got it, the engine light was on and the code displayed said it had a bad camshaft position sensor. Is this a common issue with the car and is it an easy fix?
Also, I just installed new brake pads and a new battery. Now the battery and brake lights are on, although I know I didn't break anything. Could installing a new battery cause the two lights to come on?
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So my mom recently bought a 2003 Elantra (75K miles, auto trans) and within a few days the CEL came on. She took it in to PepBoys and had them hook it to their scanner to get the codes out of it. The only code that came up was P0113 Intake Air Temp (IAT) Sensor high input. I've done a little research on the net but there is a lot of random info for this code out there. Is the IAT a separate sensor or is it combined in with the Mass Air Flow (MAF) sensor(if this car even has a MAF) or combined in with the MAP sensor? I've read on the net that it could be any of these 3, I think it's combined into the MAP.
I've also read that this code could be caused by a bad IAT, bad O2 sensor, an exhaust leak, bad wiring/ground(I checked the wiring/grounds visually and everything seems ok) or many other things. If it's as simple as replacing one of the sensors I can do that myself, I just don't want to go randomly buying things and either it be the wrong part or have it be the right part but not fix the problem. The car runs great, even with the CEL on. Yesterday when she stopped by my house I disconnected the battery for a couple minutes and reconnected it, started the car & no CEL. She drove the car for about 125-150 miles before the light came back on.
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2003 Elantra gt 90,0000 miles manual transmission. Rough idle under 1000 rpm it smooths out completely above 1000 rpm.
Also the engine makes a ticking noise from a cold start up. It stops making the ticking noise after 1500rpm or when the engine warms up.
Occasionally the car has a sputtering backfire. This happens when I park the car after being on the highway.
Replaced the plugs, wires, and the pcv valve. Dropped the oil pan and it and the oil pump pick up screen were clean.
The only check engine light to come on was for the speed sensor. It has since gone out on it's own.
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I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra with 96,000 miles and a brand new 2015 Hyundai Elantra.
It had been randomly sputtering for a couple of weeks before this and I thought that the fuel filter/pump was going out. So, I replaced that and when I turn the ignition on gas squirts out of the fuel pump so I know that is working. I then replaced the spark plugs because I don't think they had ever been replaced, but it still won't start.
When I turn the key everything sounds good, but it just won't start. I am trying to avoid having it towed to the shop until I exhaust the ability to fix it myself.
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It started sputtering at random times a few days ago and the check engine light came on. The two codes are p0401 (blocked egr system) and p0402 (egr valve stuck open). It seems to do it most when it's cold but some days it'll do it non stop.
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I picked up an '01 F-350 standard cab and bed plow truck for parts and am preparing to swap the rear axle into my E99 F-250 SB unless someone gives me good reason to just swap the carrier. I want the LS differential. I will also do hutch/harpoon on the tank so I figure that bed removal will make both jobs easier. Once I have both beds off I can give things a visual and see what lines and cables need to be changed out as well. I believe that there is a difference in the passenger's side caliper but I am not 100% on that and I don't know what I will need to change if anything. I am hoping that my drive shaft will remain.
Thus far I have gotten to rotted bed off of the donor truck. The bolts would not come out and I had misplaced my cutoff wheel so out came the torch. In the process of blowing the heads off of the bolts I also blew some holes in the bed but didn't care, it's scrap. Fortunately I did not blow any molten steel onto the fuel tank. I was able to lift the bed far enough to reach the light plugs in the rear and disconnect them without damaging them. The large one that is still attached to the frame goes to the trailer lights and could have stayed connected. The two smaller ones with ends up feed the tail lights and license plate lights, they have to be disconnected.
The bed is shot so I just hooked chains into the rear pockets and drug it off with the front end loader. I did have to get off a couple of times and unsnag it from the frame. Oops, and to cut off the fuel tank fill and vent hoses.
The bolts are extremely rusty and wouldn't budge so I cut them off.
The organ recipient has a spray on bed liner that I had to cut through to get to the bed bolts, the heads look like new and the bolts look like they will all come out for me.
And this is what the nuts and clips look like that mount the bed to the frame.
Yep, there is plenty of rust.
Also, I found two safety cables wrapped around the bed frame and main frame mid bed that will need to be disconnected before bed removal. These are on the E99 SB only, not on the '01 standard bed.
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I am a new member and have a question regarding PO138 Bank 1 sensor2.
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I am getting a p0501 code (off my code reader) on my 2001 Elantra. I have already replaced the Speed sensor on top of the transaxle under the air filter. Driving into work today check engine light came back on and took to AutoZone. They are getting a P0501 code Sensor "A". They had no idea which sensor, sensor "A" was. I know there are 4 sensors on this car and have searched for other posts with no luck, all say replace speed sensor. Need to get this done to pass emissions.
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I have a 01 Elantra and my daughter has a 02. Both cars have the camshaft sensor at the front (timing belt) end of the engine. My daughters car is a early model with a 01 engine in it. My understanding is that later 02 engines moved the camshaft sensor to the ignition coil end of the cylinder head. My question is did the timing remain the same so that if I put a 01 engine in a late 02 body and spliced the sensor in would it work correctly?
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Its been cold here in CT for the past three days. It's been in the negatives... My engine light came on last night with a p2414 so I ran it, looks like front o2 sensor (could be a couple of things), so I cleared it and waited. Today it came back with p2195 and p2414. A different code for the same sensor. But my question is this. Before I replace the o2 sensor. Is there anything common for this car that would throw this code?
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I have a 01 elantra. Check engine light is on. Diags say p0133 o2 sensor slow bank 1 #1. Any way I have replaced the front sensor. Actually now I have 3 of them. The exhaust does not leak. New gaskets on the converter. New flex pipe and everything has been welded.
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Elantra GT 2003 ... I had engine check light on and OBD 2 code reader showed DTC P1529 and P0705. I erased the codes to see if they comes back and one month later I have same codes back. P0705 indicates Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction, so probably I should check range sensor. How the range sensor looks alike and where to find it. Where can I find it?
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I just had a ton of maintenance done on my 2003 Elantra. Spark plugs & wires, timing belt, drive belts, water pump, replaced coolant and replaced the transmission fluid. The spark plugs are NGK platinum as recommended in my handbook. As soon as the mechanic started the car after the tuneup, the engine light came on with a cam shaft sensor code. He said it went off on its own.
The engine light came back on when I started the car. There's also a major loss of power after coming to a stop. I have to floor it to get it to go anywhere above 20 mph after a stop.
The mechanic said that when he replaced my water pump the liquid splashed all over everything and he thinks he might have gotten something wet that shouldn't have gotten wet and that all will be fine after it dries.
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I'm having a problem with the car just shutting off while I'm driving. The computer says its the crank sensor. I replaced it and it got worse would not start. Put old one back same results. Put new one in and it starts and runs but still stalls while I'm driving. Computer now says crank sensor circuit. Not sure if it is another bad sensor or short somewhere.
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I recently took my car to the Hyundai dealer who told me that my engine light was from a bad cam sensor (Fault Code = P0340). I bought the sensor from the Hyundai parts dealer and replaced it myself. After having the code erased, the check engine light comes back on (with the same code) when I turn the car off and turn it back on, after driving it for a while (30 minutes or more).
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So I am getting a CEL and p0501 (Vehicle Speed Sensor) code and don't quite know how to approach it.
Other forums/posts suggest that I check or replace the input and ouput sensors on the transmission, but from what I understand those are each a unique code, and the p0501 is for a sensor located on the transaxle. Is this the case?
I was under the impression that because my car did not have ABS that I did not have the latter sensor on the transaxle, only the input/output on the transmission. If that is the case, will replacing both eliminate the CEL/p0501?
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2003 Hyundai Elantra, 1975cc engine, XD. P0198 Error Code.
I know this is the Engine Oil Temperature Sensor High code and I have seen indications this may mean high voltage on this sensor. My problem is I cannot locate this sensor on the engine. From what I have read this sensor is supposed to be on the driver's side of the engine on the head, rear side.
On my engine the head was replaced (unknown to me when I recently purchased the vehicle). From all indications this is not a CVVT engine. The air intake has a MAP sensor that is connected and appears to be functioning properly. The driver's side of the engine does have two coils but I can see no other wires from the wiring harness toward the rear of the head other than leads to the starter.
The cam sensor is located on the passenger side of the engine, rear side. I have found the oil pressure sensor and crankshaft sensor on the front side of the engine block toward the driver's side. I have found and engine temperature sensor on the driver,s side of the engine on a housing connected to a radiator hose.
Oddly enough there was an OCV hanging on the harness toward the front driver's side of the wiring harness. Adjacent to this plug is a second plug on a shorter lead that is not connected to anything. Both of these plugs have two leads but are shaped differently oval for the OCV and the other is rectangular. I am wondering if this rectangular plug is for the engine oil temperature sensor? What I cannot see is where the temperature sensor would screw into the head on the front driver's side (near this plug).
I went to NAPA today and they do not have an engine oil temperature sensor listed, but I was able to find one on line. I cannot find a connection point on the head that looks like the picture of the sensor on-line.
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I replaced the knock sensor because I was getting the p0327 for the front knock sensor. Drove it again and still sputtering and CEL came back. What are other causes of this? N75 solenoid? Low fuel pressure?? It has a spectre air filter kit on it. Didn't know if this would do it. I cleaned maf. Just put new plugs in it too.
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What is the difference between the 2 wire & 3 wire cam sensors. I am installing a 98 4.0 in my nephews Explorer-engine build date of 12/98. The replacement engine build date of 5/98. There have been quite a few differences during this process and thought I had them worked out but the old engine had a 3 wire cam sensor and the replacement has a 2 wire. I have already changed the harness over due to other differences but my main question is will I have to swap the synchronizer or will the sensors interchange? The synchronizes look different as does the cam sensor.
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I had an engine swap recently done on a 2005 Honda Civic, and within a couple days, Check Engine light came on. Mechanic ran the error code and I have to apparently replace the camshaft position sensor. They are claiming that the sensor was not replaced in the engine swap, and so not covered by any warranty.
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