Driving an '03 Hyundai Elantra. I've noticed that occasionally when turning and also when driving at around 55mph or so, there is a metallic rattling sound that seems to be coming from the front driver side of the car. What this could be?
View 3 RepliesTis the first of "Squeaks and Creeks" from me. Not really the best thing to hear, sitting at ~24K miles. Anyways, until (if) i can get a sound clip, I have this metallic rattle that only occurs about 1-3 mins after i start the car. This just started happening yesterday, and nothing out of the ordinary happened.
I start the engine, hear a raspy rattle from what sounds like under the engine, and if i give it some throttle it increases some, but not to the point where it sounds like something is banging around. It goes away after a few minutes so it could be anything. Shifts are still smooth, driving and getting on the gas does not fix nor make it worse, either in neutral or actually rolling. It simply goes away with 3 minutes time or so. It seems to have a limit for how much 'rattle' it gives off, and its something I can accept.
Usually happens after car is warmed up. Rattles only while stopped and transmission still in drive. If I shift into Neutral or Park, rattling stops.
Last time I had a problem similar to this, dealer said it was a heat shield making the noise and they said they removed the heat shield (didn't specify what the heat shield was for.
Now I'm wondering if the heat shield was removed, what else this could be now...planning on taking it in in a few days.
I'm having a problem with my 2003 Elantra. Occasionally it hesitates (acts like it is going to run out of gas). When it does this the a/c stops blowing cold. Lasts for 3-4 minutes. Most recent time it had 1/2 tank of gas. I also have a problem putting gas in. I have to fill it very slowly or the gas pump will keep clicking off. I don't know if they are related or not. What fuel problem will affect the a/c?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2001 Saturn SL2 1.9 liter DOHC. I am getting a metallic rattling sound from under the car. The sound happens only at certain RPM idling speeds; what could this be?
View 11 RepliesRecently I started hearing a rattling/grinding metallic sound coming off the right rear while driving slowly. This sound is not reproduced when braking.At first it started while doing sharp right turns only, now its ever present while driving. I showed it to a mechanic he says rotors needs to be replaced. Is he right? 2003 Honda Accord V6....
View 7 RepliesOk, i have a 2006 elantra with traction control steering (TCS). Brake master cylinder went bad so i replaced that. Now the brakes occasionally start grinding when i'm driving slowly and turning (usually happens when turning into a parking spot). When I jam the brakes down they usually catch. Sometimes the ABS and TCS lights will come on after this happens.
Another problem i've had is that is not connected to the braking is that the ABS and TCS lights will come on and the car will not shift and this is going like 55 - 60 mph. I've found that if i throw the car in neutral, cut it off and back on that everything is fine. This is my first hyundai and first car with TCS. I bout this car used with 75000 miles and have only had it about 3 months.
My GF has a 2002 Elantra, and recently, she's had a remote start kit put in her car. Previously, though, we were moving something in/out of her car and broke the shift knob and the rod became bent, so we had to bend the rod back to be able to put the car back into park. (The car is an auto).
Recently, she's had a couple rough/no starts from her car. There have been a few times where she would come over to my house and the car would not restart soon after she turns off the ignition. However, the car will start rough about 3 hours later and run perfectly fine once it cranks. This doesn't happen often, but enough to be troublesome.
The problem with this though is the fact that sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't, and it runs PERFECTLY fine. The lights are not dimming, the battery is not dying, the car has not required to be jumped. While having these problems we drove the car around for about 5-6 hours and it was perfectly fine. Her dad thinks it's the alternator, but the battery hasn't been losing any charge and the battery hasn't been dying. There has been one time where her father moved the shifter up and down and put it back into park and the car started just fine. Could this be related to the shifter, and how the car isn't reading that's it's fully in park to relay ignition? Her dad said he tested the alternator and it was "bad," but like I said, if the alternator was bad, her battery would be losing charge, and that is definitely not the case.
My car has occasionally been exhibiting some stiffness when turning left, a harder turn and when going more slowly (like parking). It feels like a loss of power steering. There's no squeal and the fluid is full, although I don't know the last time it was changed. So far it hasn't happened when turning right.
View 6 RepliesI've got an automatic transmission 2002 elantra 2.0 that I purchased in 2009. About a year after owning it a weird problem developed that I've just sort of lived with since. Between 25-40 mph my RPMs occasionally "bounce" persistently by an amount between 500 (mild) and about 1000 (severe). There's a bit of fluctuation insofar as what RPMs/speeds it happens at depending on outside temperature and how warm the engine is (higher temps correlate with this issue happening at higher RPMs and a more pronounced fluctuation), but it's a consistent issue every time I drive. It *seems* like my car is always trying to push down the revs, hits a certain low point depending on the gear/speed, then jumps up just a bit only to edge back down. Lather, rinse, repeat. It's not simply a display problem as I can feel and hear the engine revs changing.
No fluctuations at idle. Above 3000 RPMs it's ALWAYS smooth sailing. When I'm actively accelerating there's never a problem, even if my acceleration stays in the revolution problem range. The car is never in danger of dying, but if the cruise is engaged (ESPECIALLY in the 25-30 MPH range at operating temp) the car shudders uphill - I assume this is because the RPMs dip a bit too low for the gear the car is in. If I press the throttle the car responds normally. This bouncing RPM issue itself NEVER causes the car to shift gears in response, and if it's happening and the car DOES shift everything works fine until it goes back to trying to maintain RPMs in the problem range. When it happens I usually just increase speed by 5MPH and it goes away, though if the car is warm and the speed limit doesn't allow me to go fast enough to get out of the problem range it just does the same thing at the slightly higher RPMs.
When the problem started my car threw an OBD code - I didn't read it myself and brought the car to a random service shop who SAID they changed the throttle position sensor, and the code was gone, but a few days later it was doing the same thing without throwing a code. I tried changing the fuel pump thinking it was a fuel delivery problem, but that didn't solve anything. I put seafoam in the fuel system monthly so I'm fairly certain that fuel system gunk isn't an issue. The symptoms haven't changed AT ALL during the 6+ years this has been happening.
The kicker is that a few years ago I found a SUPERB mechanic - the first one I've ever actually trusted to be not only competent but also honest. Described the problem and even demonstrated it to him. When I brought in my car to have the struts and mounts replaced he spent two days trying to figure out what was causing the RPM issue too... and couldn't nail it down.
Possibly related: after starting the car - regardless of how long it's been running - there's a brief delay between pressing the gas pedal and the engine responding. Delay seems *slightly* longer the colder it is outside, but it's never more than a second and a half. No further delays unless I shut the engine off and turn it on again. Replacing the fuel pump didn't affect this matter whatsoever.
I just picked up this 2005 Elantra last month. She runs GREAT - except after filling. Then she will occasionally sputter or sometimes stall during idle. Otherwise, if tank is below 3/4 (approximately), she runs fine.
View 7 RepliesWhen i accelerate there is a loud rattling noise from under the car it seems. It sounds like pots and pans banging together. I does not do it at idle only when u accelerate hard.
It does it in all gears even neutral. if you rev the car in park or neutral with your foot on the pedal steady it does not make the noise. only if you push the peddle quick and let go.
What could this be? It started after i brought my car in to DUNN TIRE for a rotation.
I called them and asked for them to check the noise and the guy denied me and said they don't do that kind of work. only tires and brakes!!!!.
My 2006 Hyundai Elantra has developed an intermittent starting short that seems to only occur in damp conditions. The intermittent starting short/fault seems to only occur in the mornings when the car has sat overnight outside. When I put the key in the ignition all the regular lights and bells will ding as normal, but when the key is then turned from "on" to "start" the entire electrical system cuts off. No interior lights, gauges, dash lights, nothing. However, if I pop the hood and then drop it, electrical power will be restored. I have been doing this for the past two weeks while I tried to determine the conditions of the fault. This morning however, this "fix" wouldn't restore electrical power but the short occurred again in a cycle and the car never did start, despite trying the hood pop/drop method 10 times.
I had it towed to a shop this morning. When the car and I arrived, it started normally without issue. (of course!) I'm wondering if riding on the back of a tow truck dried out something or if that was immaterial. The person who looked at my car noticed a loose negative battery pole attachment and replaced the negative battery clamp. (His advice was to start small before needlessly pulling things off trying to find the fault.)
So, what could cause this or what course of action to pursue? The car has 94,000 miles and this is the first real issue it has had.
When I am driving my elantra (engine warm), say I pull up to a red light or I am in a 'drive thru' my RPM's will go to under 500 and normally go under 400 which causes the whole car to shake and sound like it will stall. The car also has the issue with the Air Conditioning on that makes the vehicle have a deep rattling sound along with the very low idle which follows with my lights dimming or lightly flickering.
Milage: 177,000
Current Codes:
P0422 (catalyst 2 efficiency below threshold bank 1)
U0D00 (What that is)
2004 Elantra AT ... 6 months ago top of the radiator cracked caused it to overheat and blow the head gasket and warp the head. Repaired that and compression is fine now. It ran great for 4 months but now it randomly stalls. at or near idle. Seems to do it more at operating temp rather then cold. Occasionally the check engine light will pop on and the code reads (random misfire). It acts just like it has been shut off. But immediately restarts.
View 3 RepliesI was just thinking about this last night when driving home under heavy rain. It was nice to have it on the highway turns where there was heavy flooding and hydroplane possibilities, especially since I am used to 4 wheel drive in these conditions. I was wondering if I shouldn't be turning it off under normal conditions though? I know it's handy to do so if you are stuck in heavy snow but since the default is always on I wonder if there is any other gain to only using it when needed rather than only turning it off when needed?
View 26 RepliesMy wife reported that her 2010 Civic LX sedan sometimes made a noise in the front, like cutting sheet metal with an electric saw. I have not heard it myself during several times I drove it. What could be the possible causes?
I plan to drive it some more until I hear the noise. What specific info should I note for mechanic to diagnose the problem correctly?
I am a brand new VW owner and new member of this site. Just recently I purchased a '02 Passat GLX 4motion (w/97k miles) for fairly good price knowing that it was involved in a rear end accident.
Now I am finding multiple issues with this car. It looks excellent from exterior or interior. I have three different issues (front and rear axle pinion seal leak, broken spring, gas leak only when tank is full) with this car but I would like to discuss the Broken Spring issue here.
When I go through rough road or bumps I hear a metallic noise (noise like key chiming) from the rear driver side along with a rattling noise (like wood or plastic board rattling) at the same time from the rear middle part of the car. I researched online and found few forums talking about the brake pad caliper spring making similar noises. I called a mechanic and I was told that it could be the muffler.
I took the wheel off and kicked and hit the axle area with rubber mallet, kicked the muffler - but no similar noise was produced. However I noticed that the spring coil (rear driver side) was broken right at the bottom. When I did online research I saw one forum talking about broken spring making similar noise. I did more research and found the part (OEM# 4B0 511 115 B).
My question is:
> Does this sound like what causing the noise? Could a broken spring cause metallic chime and a hard board rattling noise?
> Is it necessary to replace the spring along with the shock absorber? Can spring be replaced by itself?
> How hard is it to replace a spring?
> Do you have to have spring compressor to mount and unmount? Can you simply take the whole assembly without compressing it?
Why the "esc off" light goes off in my 08 elantra se? This has happened 3 times in the last 4 months, every time while I am driving in rainy/snow shower conditions. I tried reactivating esc, but it does not allow me until I turn the ignition off and back on. Is this supposed to happen when it rains? I would like to take the car to the dealer for diagnosis but it happens at night and not close to a hyundai dealer.
View 7 RepliesThe brakes on my 2007 Hyundai Elantra make a grinding sound (almost like finger nails on wood) when I have tried to stop in icy conditions. It's also hard to get the car to stop and I end up pumping the brake. A Hyundai dealer replaced the front brakes over a year ago and Adirondack tire replaced back brake pads in the summer. Is the noise part of the anti-lock feature or does it sound like a problem?
View 10 RepliesSo I noticed this when I had my windows down and the music off (or very low) for the past few weeks (at this point). About 3800 miles on the car, and maybe once or twice during a drive It is an occasional clank/ metallic noise that sounds like it is coming from either the left or right side depending on which tire hits the bump. But I can go over any number of bumps before and after with no noise at all, and it's not like I'm hearing it on just large bumps/ potholes. I've never heard it on any speed bumps.
I have a feeling it is when only one tire drops down a bit from a small bump, but that is only a feeling, and it's on small bumps. I tried looking up other threads on here for suspension noise, but mostly only finding things dating back to 2011 or so with brake caliper pins, possibly motor mount but nothing really recent.