2003 elentra. yesterday my friend went to start her car and it wouldn't start. she said it sounded like a baseball card in bike spokes. later that night they tried it again and gave it gas while starting it. it started right up. the car runs fine after they get it started. the check engine light isn't on. and there is increase scent of gas while driving it.
View 3 RepliesSo I recently bought a Hyundai Elantra Gt 2003 that I totally love. But ever since I bought it, it struggles to turn on. It makes a cranking noise before it turns on, and it takes about 2 to 3 times for it to fully turn on. I changed the crank shaft sensor and the fuel pump. What can it be?
View 1 RepliesI smell gas when I start my vehicle. However, the smell goes away once the car warms up. Is this a concern?
View 5 RepliesWhen I try to start my wife's '06, it takes a little bit longer to start than in the past (used to take only 2 turns or so, now it takes 3 or 4). When it does finally ignite, it's a rough ignition and then it goes to normal. Why this is happening?
View 3 RepliesI am trying to fix the pesky hard start that I have. My car doesn't start right up anymore unless it is frozen cold. Other than that it takes 2-3 cranks sometimes 4 to turn over. That's annoying and embarrassing and I am trying to remedy it ASAP.
I have a check valve and Purge valve on hand right now. In my research it seems this is where I need to focus. I do have an engine code it was P0456 this time. I also have a gas cap.
I have a check valve because of the all too familiar cutting off early at fuel pump problem. I wanted to start there first since I am sure something needs repairing down by the fuel tank and since the problem is common. And hopefully the valve will work with the fill up and MAYBE with the start, if not that is where the purge valve comes in.
I got as far as get the 2 12mm bolts off and then couldn't make it any further.
I have a 2006 elantra gt. two days ago it stopped while driving and wont start again. I towed home and brought a technician. he told me it was the crankshaft position sensor. I replaced it but still wont start. I recently changed the battery, spark plugs and timing belt. less than 2000 miles on since then.
View 4 RepliesThis has been happening for awhile now. I will drive somewhere, distance isn't a problem, and then after I'm done, I'll go to start my car, and it won't start. It won't turn over or whatever the term is. The starter tries, but won't bite. Sometimes it will start and I can drive for a bit before it will die about a block or 2 later.
View 7 RepliesI'm trying to diagnose an issue my sister has been having on her 2010 with the V6. Dealer can't find anything wrong with it
She says when she stops to get gas, it has trouble starting back. Will crank, but not start. has to try it several times. Sometimes pumping gas will work. (Sounds maybe like IAC to me)
She says when she's driving, that sometimes it will quit. Best I can understand from her description, it's when she's off the throttle. She says most of the time it will start right back up then.
She also says sometimes when she's trying to crank it back, it acts almost like a bad starter, or battery. Starter getting slower, then speeding back up. Also says that sometimes it acts like it's low on power. She has to floor it to make it go.
My thoughts are IAC or faulty fuel pump?
My friend has a 2003 4 cyl auto Elantra. His problem is strange, while driving the car is normal for maybe 1 - 5 hours then out of nowhere the car will only go 15-35mph and no matter how much you press the gas pedal the car will not accelerate. It is a bogged down loss of power not like it's just stuck in a low gear. This has been happening for a while now but now it's happening all the time and very frequently. Before he could shut the car off for 5 minutes and it would be ok for another 1-5 hours. It got so bad that he can only go 20 miles before it happens and now it seems the longer he lets the car sit off the longer he can go before the problem happens. Hyundai has had the car for a week and still have no clue what the problem is but it has not happened while they have had it. There is no CEL or any stored codes which is making this really hard.
View 1 RepliesThe A/C compressor now shuts off while I am driving the car. The blower still blows air and the light for the A/C on or off stays lit. The only way I am able to get the a/c back on is to shut off the car and restart. The refrigerant level in the system is where it should be. Possible bad pressure switch or relay somewhere? The weather here in Vegas is a little warm so need to get fixed asap.
View 1 RepliesI have 2006 Elantra GLS. It has power door locks. But when I start driving the auto door lock does not work. Is there a way to check if this model has auto door lock or not. or How to enable auto door locking.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2003 elantra with 90 k when I'm. Driving the car it just stalls out the car never turns off it just idles and won't respond to gas pedal. I have to put the car in neutral accelerate and drop back to drive to keep driving it. Happens at all times car at normal heat , at regular driving speeds in the street any.
View 5 RepliesIt seems to have difficulty starting during stop and go like on deliveries. Also has problems after refueling. Is this caused by a faulty purge valve? If so where is it located?
View 5 Replies03 6.0 with 90k miles. New heads, all orings , stand pipes, injectors , glow plugs, egr delete , oil cooler and studs . Has sct livewire. Just took the truck to the shop for a hard start issue and misfiring at around 30% throttle driving. It would fire up great in the mornings with some white/blue smoke till warm. But after it was warmed up you shut it off it would fire right back up but very slow to reach proper idle.
But if it set for about an hour it would crank great start but same lazy idle up but now it wouldn't get over 300 rpm before it would die. And do this for 5 or so more times before finally idling up. Then runs pretty good other than the misfire. So he said it's either the hpop ipr or icp. I had him replace all 3 with motorcraft parts. Still the same issue ! Return the truck to stock tune and it doesn't have any power . My pockets are only so deep...
I have a 2001 F150 Supercrew that cranks but will not start after a hard rain. The mechanic checked the gem module and the fuse box, the gem module looked good but the fuse box had some corrosion he thought from water so he replaced the fuse box and had a body shop reseal the windshield. The first time it rained it started right up but after the next rain it would not start. I went out 12 hours later and it fired right up. I wonder if I would be better off taking to a Ford dealer. What to do next.
View 2 RepliesSo my temporary solution has been taking the gas cap off for 10-15 seconds, I suppose so that the tank can release any excess pressure. Then the car starts fine. This has worked pretty much every time. If I don't do this I could end up waiting for about 15 minutes before the car starts up again. They must be related. Is there anyway that the tank pressure isn't being vented properly?
I've replaced the thermostat, the ect sensor, the crank sensor, the fuel assembly, I've cleaned the injectors and replaced the fuel tank pressure sensor.
Burning oil smell but can't figure out where or why.
No Drips (checked standing on dry ground).
No Drips (checked after spraying water down on ground).
Checked Oil, level doesn't change.
Checked Transmission, level doesn't change.
Only thing that has changed is that i went with a 5w-40 oil about 4000km ago. Could it be burning minute amounts of oil during driving under hard conditions (mountains/hills)?
2000 powerstroke 4r100 transmission. It has 155k just had it rebuilt and the shop is having a night as am I. It was shifting hard and the o/d off light would start flashing after you drove it a while. Its still doing the same thing and the shop checked the whole wiring harness and replaced the accumulator twice believing they got a bad re-manufactured one. The only code I can pull is a 605 pcm read only memory error. Could the cause be a bad pcm? The shop doesn't seem to have a clue at this point and I'm out 2500. IV taken it back twice now and Iv driven it a total of 35 miles since the rebuild...
View 1 RepliesIf I turn off my AC while driving but leave the fans running, I get a distinct sour/stale smell from the vents.
This also occurs when I turn on the AC. What might be causing this?
Is there a pan or something that needs to be cleaned? There is a fresh Cabin filter installed.
I've been having this funky smell from vents lately. It doesn't exactly smell foul or corpse-like, but rather more of an old unwashed sock....
The smell seems to come out after a bit of driving with the AC off. When I turn it on, it goes away after a little while.
This has been happening everyday, and I'm thinking that it's condensation, or maybe I just need to change my filter... Is there a way to get rid of this smell without changing anything?
I've read that I can spray Lysol at the bottom of the dash board (where the driver's and passengers feet are) with the AC on at the coldest setting with the recirculate button on. Doing that will flush out the vents and kill whatever is in there.
I just recently had a new (used) gas tank and new fuel lines (front to rear) put on the car.
On the first fill-up, I pulled out from the gas station, drove 20 seconds to the next red light. The car stalled (automatic transmission) when I came to a stop. It was hard to start and hard to keep going, and had intermittent periods of extreme power loss when I drove it down the highway.
Took it back to the shop, there was an engine code for the O2 Sensor, so the O2 was replaced, but made no difference. They checked fuel pressure and the catalytic converter, both were fine. They wanted me to keep driving it until another code came up.
As the tank neared empty, the car started driving almost perfectly. Filled it up again, and the problems started all over again. I have tried driving it with the gas cap off to make sure air can get in to replace the gas, but made no difference.
I changed the spark plugs, and all 4 of the old ones were covered in black carbon from the fuel running too rich (i assume).
Also, when the car is idling and it starts struggling, the exhaust does smell extremely strongly and is grey.
Now, engine code [P1166 O2S Controller Adaption Diagnosis Malfunction (bank 1)] is appearing (I have to check with the garage monday to see if it is the same code they had earlier).
I'm not sure why a new tank would cause this, unless somehow dirt/rust ended up where it didn't belong during the changeover.