Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2003 GLS - Power Loss / Car Goes Into Starvation Mode And Won't Accelerate
Feb 21, 2013
This car has turned into a bad dream. When it first starts in runs well for a mile or so until it warms all the way up. Then it goes into starvation mode and won't accelerate. Maybe a cough or two then it runs fine for 10 or so seconds. And goes back to stumbling. Most times I have to pull over out of traffic and wait for it to so call catch again.
I have changed plugs, wires, coil rack & fuel pump module. Because someone else looked at it before I did, they erased stored codes. I have pulled 2 codes on 2 different occasions. The first was P0134 the second was P1166. Other times no codes were stored. I did notice that if I shut off ignition & restart it runs great for 10 or 15 seconds.
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My 2004 Elantra occasionally won't start. When I hold the ignition on Start, the radio loses power (but the dashboard doesn't) and nothing else happens. Sometimes, tapping the gas pedal will suddenly cause the car to start. Once, I had to stomp the pedal to the floor before it would work.
I just replaced the battery (and positive cable end since it was corroded in place) and recently replaced the spark plugs (which were badly burnt). There is a check engine code for "catalyst underperforming" which seems unrelated.
I suspect my car has fuel delivery problems. It occasionally sputters while idling and often has power loss while driving if I try to accelerate hard. It seems to have trouble shifting into 4th gear from 3rd or 5th, but that may be another issue entirely.
What I should check to diagnose this, or replace to resolve it?
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My friend has a 2003 4 cyl auto Elantra. His problem is strange, while driving the car is normal for maybe 1 - 5 hours then out of nowhere the car will only go 15-35mph and no matter how much you press the gas pedal the car will not accelerate. It is a bogged down loss of power not like it's just stuck in a low gear. This has been happening for a while now but now it's happening all the time and very frequently. Before he could shut the car off for 5 minutes and it would be ok for another 1-5 hours. It got so bad that he can only go 20 miles before it happens and now it seems the longer he lets the car sit off the longer he can go before the problem happens. Hyundai has had the car for a week and still have no clue what the problem is but it has not happened while they have had it. There is no CEL or any stored codes which is making this really hard.
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I have a 2005 hyandai elantra with 176k miles. ck eng light came on with P0340 cam shaft positioning sensor. I replaced it and cleared code and ck eng light came back with same code. So as last resort took it to dealership who replaced the wire from sensor to ecu and told me i had a bad ecu. I replaced it with a used one from a semi-reputable salvage yard (i mean i have used them several times with no issues). The code came back almost instantly. Symptoms of the car starts good cold within a few minutes it is very slow to accelerate and i have noticed a severe loss of MPG. I have also checked timing because i changed the belt in this process.
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I got a problem with my 03 elantra, recently the car had a problem of stalling. I replaced the crank shaft sensor and that fix the problem, but the car always when idle and then press the gas to go feels like it has no power at all then all the sudden all power kicks in it only does that for a second when i press the gas. What I did was to replace the fuel filter that actually was extremely dirty,but no change i guess it could be the fuel pressure regulator.
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I might bring up a couple issues I've been having with my 2001 elantra gls manual recently.
The big one: Recently, if I accelerate aggressively or even moderately (passing someone or merging onto the freeway), there will be no power to the wheels and the car will rev into the 4K's and will not accelerate until I let off the pedal and am in the 2500 range. Then I can accelerate ever so slowly through the gears or risk being "disconnected". If that even makes sense. Basically, I shift into gear, accelerate, if I accelerate too fast (which is not fast at all) it "goes into neutral" and revs up to 4K and above until it falls back to 2500 or so.
The other problem is that my dash lights keep going on and off. Only some of them, and if I bash my dash they'll sometimes come back on. I checked for loose wiring. Non to be found.
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2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS ... I don't know what is going on with my car. When I start it, put it in gear and try to pull out, it feels like there is a loss of power. A few seconds later, the power returns . I can push my foot down, and the engine doesn't rev, but then it's like all of a sudden the engine realizes I have my foot down and takes off.
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Mine is 2006 with 130k miles. Just replaced fuel filter, air filter, cleaned air flow sensor and cleaned the injectors. The car still feels slow and it seems to eat more fuel than before. The spark plugs and the wires seems to be ok. No warning or error on dash is displayed.
When push the accelerator it takes a while to respond starting from stop position, and when the car is moving and try go faster it feels like lazy so I have remove the feet of the pedal and push it again so it respond quickly.
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Firstly, I've had an extensive look through the forum for existing threads dealing with this issue and have found a couple that seem to match... however I'm not entirely sure because noted that they had the car CEL come on... My wife's car doesn't. These threads dealt with gear shift flare, range selector switch faults, ECM reprogram - RPM flatspot... All except the latter noted that the CEL light came on...
Our problem - Loss of power and speed at 100km/h (auto trans)
In fourth gear (auto) traveling at 100km/h, RPM at this stage has settled to around 2100-2300. Then kicks down into 3rd (I'm assuming) with RPM just above 3000, and with little acceleration slowly build up to 100km/h and then start losing.
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Almost two weeks ago, I began to have a problem with my car. (2001 Elantra) At times it acted like it was about to stall as I was driving up the smallest incline. Once I got up the incline, my car would jump gears. (second to third, so on)...
The car was taken to Advanced Auto where I received codes about the catalytic converter and the output sensor. I've known about the converter since I bought the car last year and the sensor was replaced. But I am still having problems with the car. My friend is literally having to drive it like it was a stick.
We fear it might be the transmission as I you can go in reverse with no problem. What it could be instead of the transmission?
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Driving in sunny so cal yesterday never a problem with the car just an oxygen sensor- I was cruising along at 75 and all of a sudden the oil light comes on - immediate loss of power and i pull over to the side of the road and shut it down. try to restart and it just clicks.....tugged on the crank through the wheel well and it will not budge...oil is ok and plugs were pulled and they seem fine....oil pump...fuel pump....starter hopefully something simple and inexpensive I hope.....what is the difficulty in changing out the starter and could this be the issue?
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So anytime I accelerate out of the 'Eco' mode, the car is very rough and loud! 2011 Elantra GLS. Stock. Haven't had it to the dealer yet to discuss. 24,000km. Other than that it's fine.
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So my 2005 elantra 2.0 CVVT has 189k on it 1 owner.
I got a check engine light one day and i read the code. Came out to be 02 sensor code bank 1. So i order a denso o2 sensor and replace the part.
I drive the car for about 400 miles to reset monitors and get a check engine light. P0420 cat code. At this point the car drives with normal power and pickup.
1000 miles later my car has lost power. It doesn't have any get up or power when driving normally. I take the car to my local shop and they recommend replacing front cat. I replace front cat, same issue.
At this point i'm not sure if it is a transmission problem or maybe my 2nd cat or something else?
On the freeway if I put my pedal to the ground the rpms surge up very very slowly,
Also seems like the car doesn't shift till around 4k rpms, seems like previously it shifted sooner.
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Dad has a 01 one ton with the 7.3 and isn't real tech savvy so I'm posting for him. He is the original owner and has been complaining recently about the lack of power. Particularly the upper end. He is having to downshift way more often and where he used to not have to. And we've both noticed a very noticeable shake at idle. Not a vibration but a true shake. He changes the oil every 5000 on the dot and I've gone and changed the air and fuel filter and ran hose and see foam and royal purple injector cleaner through it with no results. Truck is all stock with 225000 on it.
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I drive a new to me 2005 F350, he has a 2001 F350. While we were talking he said he didn't think his pickup had the power it should have. He pulls a 5th wheel camper that weighs around 8000 pounds fully loaded. He said it takes a couple of miles to get to 55 mph, and it is hard to hold the speed. It doesn't have the power it did when he first got it last year. He was told that a diesel is slow getting started. He rode with me in mine, when I dropped it about half throttle to pass a slow car he said he could tell mine had way more power.
His check engine light is not on, it starts good both when hot and when cold. It runs smooth, no miss as far as I can tell listening to it. What are some common issues that could cause this? He did just change the oil and fuel filters, not sure about the air filter. He said the power loss came before he serviced the engine, and did not improve after the fuel filter change. Where to start? He was also told to check the filter inside of his fuel tank, so he is getting ready to drop his tank.
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I have a 2001 F350 7.3 the truck will at random times loose power and almost shut down. A while back I had an issue with the uvch plugs and changed that out. Truck ran fine till I got some dirty fuel from a diesel tank at my friends farm. I did the hutch mod cleaned the tank and now have a frame mounted screw on filter before the pump. I cleaned the fuel bowl and changed the filter. Fuel pressure stays at 59psi and drops to 56psi wot. The truck is tuned with an edge programmer. After these mods the truck ran awesome for over 2000 miles. Now it has the above stated problem. I have fuel and hpop guages along with egt and boost. During the problem egts will increase rapidly and it seems like it is starving for fuel.
Hpop gauge reads 3300psi or above during wot and shows good pressure during these mishaps. I have auto Enginuity and I get a different reading at wot of only 2600 psi. The hpop gauge is tapped into the icp sensor per instructions and has been installed this way for a while with no issues. The tune has been on the truck for over 40000 miles. The only thing that I can come up with is it will occasionally throw a p1211 under wot or pulling my Gooseneck Dump Trailer when loaded. However it acts up sometimes and doesn't throw the code. Sometimes you can shut it off and start it back up and it's fine other times it will last for the whole day. My only guess is low pressure from the hpop but I don't reflect this from my gauge only on AE at wot. Wouldn't a bad pump act up all the time? Am I correct to think it is just the ipr?
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I have a 2001 F450 7.3 chassis cab with just over 100k. I have a new problem... So far on two different occasions the service engine came on followed by a loss of power under a load and white smoke from the exhaust. Took it to the shop the first time, they determined it to be a dirty air filter, which seemed odd since it just happened all of a sudden. They changed air & fuel filter, problem gone- for two weeks..
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2003 Santa Fe - Loss of power while driving on highway. Dropped from 60 to 15 MPH in matter of seconds. Feels like a couple of cylinders (3.5 liter) are not working.
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Ok so I have a 2001 f150 4.6l 4x4 I purchase it recently and have been having some issues it has a huge power loss on take off and even while driving I have changed plugs coils tested almost every sensor and am at a loss at this point. No check engine light on or codes...
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Occasionally when I'm driving, I'll accelerate and get a brief loss of power, then it'll pick back up, followed by a puff of white/blue smoke. This usually happens when the oil is over 120*, but not quite to full operating temps. It doesn't happen every time either. Only 3 times in the past week. Otherwise, there is a very faint haze of white smoke that seems to be constant. It is very difficult to see unless against a dark background. Oil level is good, I check it once a week, no rising or lowering levels.
I pulled the EGR yesterday, all good, although a tad dirty. Cleaned up no problem. Haven't had a chance to do a bubble test yet. There are some DTCs, but I can't remember off the top of my head what they were. I'm about to go clean the inside of the truck, so I will pull those and update in a few minutes.
Truck has about 148,500 miles.
Torque Pro lists these codes: C1145, P0299, P0677
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On my '03 Santa Fe 2.7, this has happened twice, with 500 or so uneventful miles in between. At highway speed, it just all of a sudden loses power and will only go about 50 mph with accelerator to the floor. When you stop & put in neutral, it only revs to about 3000 rpm, with pedal to the floor -yet idles fine. Then when you shut it down, wait a few minutes & start it back up, it's fine. Is this a fuel problem or what?
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