Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2002 GT Rides Too Harsh / Very Bumpy And Stiff?
Nov 3, 2013
I bought a 02 elantra gt for a good price and had about 120,000 miles. The car had after market 18" rims on it and i planned to take them off since i don't like rims anyway and the rims were making the car bouncy and didn't ride right. So i got the recommended tire size for an elantra which is 195-60r-15 and put them on. while taking off the rims I realized that there was some clamps on the suspension and I didn't know what they did so i just took them off as well. What i have noticed is that the ride is very very harsh. I feel every bump on the road which you kind of get used to but when a bad bump comes on the road it feels like the car just got dropped from the air, its literally bad and i cant return the car since i bought it "as is". At first i thought it was the tires or tire pressure but this seems way worse just to be tire pressure. I just want a smooth riding car. The car seems lower like there isn't much space between the top of the tire and the hood of the car.
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Didn't notice this on the test drive, but as soon as I started living with my Santa Fe (about 3-4 weeks now) I can't believe how harsh and rough the ride is. Very very uncompromising over all road irregularities - even those you can't even really see. 2013 Santa Fe Sport?
It's so bad I've been searching for aftermarket struts and shocks to replace what must be garbage OEM parts - but nothing seems to be available for it yet.
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I have a 2005 Elantra where my transmission went. The tranny had a harsh upshifting when driving, also had it in the shop four times because it was hard to get into Park or Drive. Shop said they never could find a problem.. Did some checking on internet, the Accent and Elantra shared the same transmission I believe, and found a TSB describing trans axle solenoid problems from 1999 to 2006. I am going to fight this as I don't think I should have to pay for a factory defect.
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I have a 04 elantra and its driving me up a wall. when driving first thing till the trans warms up it has a harsh shift between 2-3 gears and its rough like all the motor mounts are bad and you dump a clutch. i have tried the tsb reflash and the adaptive learn still did it, Replaced the trans twice reflashed the computer after the last trans and redid the adaptive learn twice fist time at cold temp then redid the learn with the trans at full operating temp.
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Very recently the brake pedal in my car has been stiff (won't depress all of the way down) after starting up the car when it's been sitting for a while. It takes a few presses of pedal for it to feel normal again.
I did some research and turned up a vacuum leak as a possible cause. I also wondered if a flush/bleed would be a possible fix for something like this.
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My car has occasionally been exhibiting some stiffness when turning left, a harder turn and when going more slowly (like parking). It feels like a loss of power steering. There's no squeal and the fluid is full, although I don't know the last time it was changed. So far it hasn't happened when turning right.
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The gear shifter in my auto trans 05 Elantra is really stiff when shifting different gears. I was running fine as I went to work and back today with no problems. After I got back from work, the car was off for 30-40 mins. Then I went back and started the car and the gear shifter was stiff but still shiftable. I checked under the car to and fluid leaks but didn't see anything. What may be the issue here?
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I have been having phantom automatic transmission problems with occasional harsh shifting, mostly up shifting through all the gears but sometimes downshifting. This problem started in May 2014, lasted off and on for several days, and then stopped occurring. There had been a few instances of small drops of fluid on my carport but nothing consistent. Then in September, the problem started again on the same basis: on/off again, nothing consistent. When I couldn’t locate the port under the hood to check the transmission fluid, I took the Elantra to the Boise Hyundai dealership to ask where the trans fluid port was located. My service rep told me that there was no port in the new vehicles and that the transmission fluid was not changed until 100,000 miles at a cost of $400. The service technicians could not find anything wrong with the vehicle when they hooked it up to their computers to check the error codes, and the vehicles would not perform the harsh shifting when they test drove the car. The techs re-set the adaptive points and I was sent on my way. A few days later, the harsh shifting started again on and off, phantom problem. I took the Elantra back into the dealership and told them to keep it for as many days as it took for a tech to drive it home and start it cold in the morning. The transmission did not perform the harsh shifting for the 80 miles the tech drove it home and back to the dealership for three days.
After driving the Elantra another week, the phantom trans problems re-occurred. After surfing the web and checking the Hyundai Customer Forum, all I could find was problems with 2010 Elantra transmissions and my service tech admitted that Hyundai had replaced thousands of 2010 transmissions.
Through the dealership I opened a Case File for my transmission problems because there is something definitely wrong with the vehicle and I want a new transmission, and will press my case to the max. I’ve kept a log since September, noted daily temperatures, and times the trans has performed harsh shifting. I’ve kept the problem to a minimum by letting the car warm up for about 5 minutes and will only drive it when the tachometer needle rests on 1,000 rpms.
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I have a 2007 Sonata, performs flawlessly, my wife's 2011 Elantra, not so much. We've had issues with her car from the get-go. The Elantra has 32k miles on it. About 15k miles ago the dealership reprogrammed the transmission. Problem seemed to be fixed, to a degree. Hiccup here and there.
Last night when my wife came home from work she said it was shifting hard. I just shrugged it off. We came in to town, about 5 miles down a busy highway. 55mph, no problems.
Car sat for a couple hours. We got in the car to come home, buttery smooth first few shifts to 35 mph. Car had probably been running about 5 minutes. Pulled out onto highway, shifts 1-2 fine, 2-3 holds about 2500 rpms, won't shift, won't shift, BAM! repeat 3-4, and I believe 4-5. I was so shaken up I didn't count. I pulled off and took the back road and it continued to do it for about 3 miles. It almost feels like the torque converter is locking up. Someone mentioned a transmission temperature sensor, but that is only in Sonata's, no one has seen it in an Elantra.
By the time we got home, the car was shifting normal. This morning I get in it because now my wife won't drive it, and it works fine. Works fine all day.
Go into dealership, they say everything is fine, they called Hyundai, they say nothing wrong, come back when you have a problem.
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2011 Elantra with phantom harsh shifting problem. Yesterday the Elantra began surging and nearly stalling out on acceleration after about 20-25 minutes driving. I was barely able to drive the car home; when pulling into the garage, there was a strong smell of something hot. Temperature gauge indicated normal engine temp; no icons lit on the dash indicating a problem. Surging/nearly stalling and overheating problem and is it related to other Elantra engine, trans, fuel system-related problems? I can’t find anything specific while web surfing today for some clues!
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I have a 2004 Elantra with 130000+ miles. Lately I have noticed bumpy ride along the concrete highway. It bumps like a Yo-Yo. What Could be the issue and how expensive?
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She called me to inform me that ABS and ESC lights came on and the steering was very loose. I told her to shut off the car and restart to see if it made a difference. She did and now the EPS light has come on along with the other two and she said the steering has now become stiff (power steering it seems). I will be hooking up my OBDII to see if I find any fault codes?
No buttons were pressed by the way. Everything has been working fine for the last 6 months. Only had to bring it in for an unrelated issue recently.
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I have been getting this weird bumpy feeling when making left hand turns and even sometimes when going strait on the road. It does not seem to effect the breaking for acceleration of the car. This does not happen all the time and will start and stop without any change in driving.
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I have a 2002 Regal LS 196000 miles and am getting a harsh shift with a P1811C code. 3.8 engine, MN3 code 4T65E and I was wondering if I should try the ZZ shift kit and the sea foam trick.
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I installed a Morimoto Elite HID system in my car. Testing it out I noticed that while the car is off, but the ignition is on, the lights work flawlessly. Once I started the car up the driver's side light flickers and there's a harsh buzzing noise coming from the relay.
You may be thinking to yourself, "This is an easy one, he just needs a capacitor" ....but the thing is, I also installed a capacitor with it. The power from the stock headlights plugs into a cable that runs through the rubber flange (that fills the hole you make in the back of the housing cap) directly into the capacitor. The output from the capacitor then runs into the relay. I believe this is the correct setup.
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I just replaced the front and back motor mounts on my 02, 1.6 automatic accent. The front replacement mount was 1/2 inch too wide at where the bolt goes through, but made do. Now, the idle, but that's it. Before, it was vibrating somewhat at idle and lots of steering wheel vibration at highway speed. Now, I have no vibration of the wheel at highway speed, so it's like I eliminated one problem and made the other worse. I am hoping that the mount being too wide is the problem as I ordered the correct one. While taking it apart, I also noted the bolt through the front motor mount is incredibly small compared to the hole and this was true on both the original and the too big replacement. Why is this? Assuming that I swap out the too big mount for the proper and it still vibrates, than what?
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I have a 2002 4x2 xlt stock height with 100k miles. I've installed a rear sway bar, air assist bags in rear and bilstein shocks. I am looking for a smoother ride. It doesnt take the large bumps and train tracks very well. It feels like if the front end bottoms out. Ive been reading here on the forums about the rancho 9000 adjustable series giving a better ride, but most of those are for the 4x4 ex's they sit higher and more travel on the front end. So I am wondering if with rancho's make a smoother ride but not the front end bottoming out, maybe a 4" lift with the rancho's would give me both a smooth ride and no more bottoming out.
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Hey Guys, Picked up a nice 2002 Elantra with the best service history car fax I have ever seen. Every 3k oil was changed at dealership, all maintenance schedules were followed and I'm just at 100k. I love it! Its so gentle on fuel for me.
Anyways, I noticed whenever I start the car, the AC light is on and I have to turn off.
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I bought a 2002 elentra and didn't know there was an alarm on it. For some reason was activated well I was in the store yesterday and I can not turn it off or start my car w/o it going off. I have tried unhooking the battery and resetting it as instructed by others but still keeps going off. I do not have a remote for it. How do I disable the alarm so I can drive my car again?
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I just recently picked up a 2002 Hyundai Elantra. After driving the first time I noticed that the car was stating I was moving faster then I was. I brought it to a shop. and they stated that the car was reading in KPH and not MPH. they also do not know how to change it back.
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I have a 2002 Camry LE V6 with 200K on it and have noticed that the steering feels very stiff while driving and turning. I have checked the fluid, air pressure on tires and that is fine.
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