Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2002 GLS Losing Power When Accelerating From Stop Light
Nov 14, 2015
My 2002 Hyundai elantra gls has had a problem with losing power when accelerating from a light. only after filling up gas and has done it only three times. I cleaned throttle body and noticed the mass air flow sensor is missing and wiring. I went to AutoZone and no check engine light for mass air flow sensor and that I have one for fuel pressure sensor in tank. I don't wanna throw money in to the mass air flow sensor if my problem is the fuel tank pressure sensor.
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When @ a light or stop sign the car vibrates excessively to the point it makes my daughter sick. I do feel it vibrating but it doesn't bother me but something is definitely wrong. There are no engine lights on, I can hear the top end tapping and clattering, I did check the valve clearances which seem to be barely within specs. She says it vibrates worse when the tank is full. She also said when the tank is full the front end shakes driving down the road. I'm kinda wondering the front end shaking with a full tank might be the rear struts.
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Recently my car a 01 echo has been randomly losing power and accelerating slowing. Sometimes if I let off on the gas pedal and reapply it, it clears up and runs fines. There are no check engine lights and no codes stored. car has 213k miles on it.
I had replaced the fuel filter, fuel pump, both o2 sensors and cat, have noticed a break behind the resonator could this be causing it?
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My '05 Elantra GT has done some weird stuff in the last few days: Losing complete power for a second when pulling out of the driveway two days ago, flickering headlights constantly, complete loss of power while trying to start last night, then suddenly everything started right up. Today, it lost power 2 times in about 10 seconds while I was sitting at a light on the way to work, but the motor never shut all the way off so it just restarted. Today at lunch, I turned the key and everything went dark. I pressed the brake pedal, the dash clock came on and then I was able to start the car. Bad Diode in alternator?
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I'm currently moving cross-country from LA to St. Louis. Had routine maintenance done b4 I left. I've only made it to New Mexico so far b/c my car is losing power after logging 250 mi. RPM's also become erratic. Doesn't completely stall, but won't let me go more than 45mi/h. After a rest break, the problem doesn't re-create.
At my first mechanic stop, the computer checked-out as ok. That mechanic changed the spark plugs and also told me the 2004 has no fuel filter (fuel filter being my suspicion of what was wrong).
Today it lost power again. Jim Bob at a rural garage said maybe the alternator or fuel pump. I have an appt. at Pep Boys tomorrow, as the dealers don't have any avail appts. until Fri.
The contents of my apt. are in the trunk and backseat. Is it worth it to remove them (to get to the fuel pump) at the cost of another hotel day, or should I limp home at 250 mi. a stretch?
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Our 2002 Hyundai Elantra is having issues. It shifts fine, no need to double-clutch. It stays in gear. Doesn't grind or anything crazy like that. It does seem like it isn't getting power to the drivetrain, and is having trouble climbing hills. This all came on very suddenly. Hubby thinks it's the clutch -- I think it may be the bushings. Though now, I'm wondering if it's something else? Since it's not having trouble shifting, should we be looking at the fuel system? Sensors? Engine seals?
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2001 Hyundai Elantra GLS ... I don't know what is going on with my car. When I start it, put it in gear and try to pull out, it feels like there is a loss of power. A few seconds later, the power returns . I can push my foot down, and the engine doesn't rev, but then it's like all of a sudden the engine realizes I have my foot down and takes off.
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Mine is 2006 with 130k miles. Just replaced fuel filter, air filter, cleaned air flow sensor and cleaned the injectors. The car still feels slow and it seems to eat more fuel than before. The spark plugs and the wires seems to be ok. No warning or error on dash is displayed.
When push the accelerator it takes a while to respond starting from stop position, and when the car is moving and try go faster it feels like lazy so I have remove the feet of the pedal and push it again so it respond quickly.
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Truck started losing power then service engine light came on, drove about another mile then it just stalled ( almost home lees than a 1/4 mile). Got out open hood oil everywhere on top of motor. Looked under truck and oil all over the road. Looked back where I was driving a line of oil as far an I could see. Checked oil barely any on stick. Where should I start hpop or plug?
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The stop lights and the tail light of my Elantra GT 2001 (automatic transmission)won't shut off, unless the fuse is removed from its place. Is this something easy to fix? I imagine it can only be some kind of switch on the break pedal/clutch.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra standard model, Manual drive.
It started out with the CEL flashing sometimes if I give it a lot of gas like taking off from a stop light. Then the car would just lose power when I was driving randomly and cut off like I was running out of gas. Then I restart it a few minutes later and it would drive fine. Then it now got to the point that when you try to drive it, it just shakes a whole lot and it has like 20% power, you can hit the gas as much as you want and it pretty much doesn't move.
The first time I had it towed home I replaced the Ignition Coil, and Spark Plug Wires which did nothing.
The first shop I took it to said it was a bad injector and bad spark plug wires (even though they were new)
So they changed the injector and wires and the car ran fine for 2 weeks at most and started doing the same thing. When I took it back he said another injector went bad and that they were all going to go bad in sequence. So I had him replace that one and it drove perfect again for a week and had the same problem.
Then I took it to another shop which said my spark plug cables were arcing inside where it plugs in so I took the cables back and got replacements and he said they were still arcing and were garbage to get cables from the dealer so I did that and it ran fine for an hour after taking it home and just started like it was running out of gas. I would have to floor it and basically coast, and try to restart it and when I would give it gas it would hardly go and I just had to keep restarting it and finally it wouldn't start so I towed it home, and sure enough after cooling down it started again and now when you drive it, it feels like you've only got 20% of power.
The only preexisting condition the car had was a clogged charcoal canister because when I get gas it always keeps clicking and I have to put 30 cents of gas in at a time or the nozzle shuts off or if I keep doing it too fast the gas comes out and runs down the side of the car.
I changed the spark plugs I think about 2 weeks before this stuff started happening. So far it has new:
Ignition coil
Spark plugs
Spark Plug wires (x2)
Fuel Injectors (x2)
Hollowed out Cat Converter because the mechanic said it was clogged
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Truck started just fine this morning, was driving for about 15 minutes and it started to lose power going up a gradual incline. I didn't even think of it really and so I just pushed the pedal in a bit and no increase in power, in fact it bogged down. I let up and went back to the gas and same thing. This was barely pressing the pedal down. I got to the top of the incline and started back down a bit and gained speed (dropped from 55-60 to 40 at the crest) up to 55, hit level ground and started to lose power again, and it felt for the life of me like the truck was fighting for every ounce of power it could get. Everytime I would step on it it would bog down again. I nursed it to an appointment I had, and when I got done with that I started back home. Same thing. It would accelerate from a stop up to 30 (I've always been a laid back accelerater) and when I would read 35-45 it would start to dog again. I got it back home.
2nd issue: On the way home I had to stop at a highway crossing on a slight inline. There the truck started to shudder a bit. and if I would just touch the gas pedal it would bog down. I played with it a bit and got it to rev a bit. put it in reverse got away from the intersection and let it idle a bit when It died. started right back up, no problem. would play with the accelerator and same thing. I finally got it to rev a bit and 2 footed it back home slipping from neutral to drive.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. The engine light came on intermittent and also the speed performance went down dramatically and It seems that the under the front seats are getting overheated.
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I noticed this morning that since last night the passengers side red interior door light stays on after the door is shut. The dome light shuts off once the door is closed however the red light does not. I've checked all four door light sensors that actuates the interior lighting but they all function correctly without any resistance or stickiness. The drivers side red interior light functions as it should but the passengers side stays on all the time.
I'm worried the battery will be drained if the light continues to stay on. I'd light to figure out why this is happening. If I choose to remove the bulb will there will be a draw on the battery? And do I have to remove the entire door panel in order to remove the bulb?
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How do you replace the reverse light switch on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra manual transmition?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS, and it has a constant airbag light on in the dash. I have zip-tied the connectors underneath the driver and passenger side to ensure they are not loose. I took apart the center console and unplugged, replugged the airbag module, and the connector close to the gear shift. The two fuses in the fuse panel beneath the storage compartment to the left are good. I am at a block. I can't think of anything else to check, and the shop wants $90 to diagnose the problem. I've also left the battery off overnight to see if that would kwor. Still nothing.
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I was driving my trusty 2002 152K miles, and came into a very long and very slow traffic jam on the side of a mountain. After about two hours of mostly stop and very little go, my CEL light came on. I am also seeing the "general fault" symbol, but it should be noted that my PS symbol has been showing for about a year because my PS died and I just didn't fix it.
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My wife and I are new Elantra owners, car is just about to hit 9000 miles on it. I don't know when the noise started happening, but wasn't too long ago. My wife is okay with it, but as for me I find it rather annoying that the car is so new and already making noises. I call it a click but she describes it as a thunk.
Here's the details. The car is an automatic for starters. The noise mainly happens when accelerating from a dead stop. I'll be at a red light and when it turns green, I let the brake go and gently step on the gas and click...there is the noise. Its just a single click, loud enough to annoy me and loud enough that I could hear it when the radio volume is set to 12 or so.
It has also happened mid driving when I release the gas pedal to slow down without using the brakes. Right when I release it, I hear the click...once again a single click.
Now I have taken it to the dealer as a concern because that click wasn't there when I bought the car. They told me it was normal and after waiting 2 hours for a simple oil change to be completed I wasn't ready to argue with them. But I am getting to that point that I'm ready to argue with them, considering the car is so new and still under the warranty.
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I have a 2002 Camry XLE with 43k miles. When i accelerate from stop too quickly its as if the car cannot shift gears or something quick enough. It just stutters and then picks up as if nothing happened? This only happens when accelerating from zero.
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My car has been running great. It has 125,000 miles on it. A couple weeks ago I did a bunch of work. I changed the plugs, air filter, timing belt, ac belt, alt, belt, cooling flush, tranny flush and brakes. Everything was great until yesterday. I wanted to test the power so I was on the highway going up this long incline going relatively fast. As I get almost to the top of the hill, my car starts hesitating losing power and check engine light comes on. I make it off the exit and sputter to a commuter parking lot. I shut the car off, check under the car for leaks and check the fluids. Everything is ok. I start the car back up and its running fine again. I drive home then I drive to the parts store to have them check the codes. No codes found. He told me that the engine light needs to be on for them to find codes.
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2008 Elantra, no longer under warranty.
A few days ago, I got new tires on the front. The tire pressure light came on the next day. The front left tire seemed to be losing air. I brought it to the tire place.. They could find no leaking anywhere, although the tire had lost 5 pounds of pressure. The mechanic said the leak could be due to the TPM sensor? (He said, when he was checking the air pressure, the core stuck? ) Can a faulty TPM sensor cause air to leak out of a tire??
If that TPM sensor is indeed broken -- is the Tire place responsible?? --because this seemed to break right when they put new tires on my car.
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