I am having a slight hesitation problem on my 2002 gls. When the car is cold and I am shifting with low rpm there is a slight hesitation untill higher rpms then it seems to clear. I wouldn't say a "stutter" or enough to "buck" the car but definitely noticeable. The strange thing is when the car gets up to temp it seems to stop. Almost like a carb on an older engine.
View 3 Replies2003 Hyundai GLS
Starts fine, loud motorboat like noise ... then car hesitates when put in any gear for a few seconds before moving ... then drives fine. Slight shutter at low speeds 30 and under....hit the expressway and its all good. Is that the fuel pump, a relay, what? It has a brand new radiator, gasket, thermostat and cover...so its not the cooling system.
Also...the check engine light is on, the pcm code says its only issue is the cat con...I don't think this issue is related cuz it was already on when the radiator killed in the middle of the highway....the noise is new. The hesitating isn't....that's been going on since before the check engine light came on....but its getting worse.
I have an '02 Santa Fe GLS V6 2WD. I am having a strange problem and do not know what it could be. When car is cold, it starts up and runs with no problems. After about 15-20 mins, there is a slight hesitation or studder. RPM's drop slightly and shutters. When i accel, engine studders, then runs fine. This only happens when at idle in drive. At highway speeds there is no problem. What can this be?
View 7 Repliesi bought a used 2011 F250 and really like the truck and there is no comparison when towing the trailer.
1.) I've noticed the truck doesn't shift smoothly from 3rd to 4th. Under light acceleration the RPMs climb, then drop slightly, then climb, and finally the truck shifts into 4th gear. It's almost like the truck wants to shift but doesn't. I believe a selenoid was replaced on the truck.
2.) From a dead stop, when pushing slightly on the gas pedal there is a slight hesitation or unresponsiveness with the truck wanting to proceed forward.
After car warms and while driving trans moves to 3rd gear and stays ??
View 2 Replies248K miles. At hwy speeds, acceleration is great. But when "gas" is slightly relaxed without moving foot (e.g. downhill or level not acceleration) experience slight hesitation. Happens in and out of cruise control. What might cause this? Fuel pump?
View 1 RepliesI have a 2002 1.8 Turbo VW GTI. Lately I've noticed that the car would hesitate slightly when slowing down. It would go up to at least 5000 RPM's or higher before it shifted over. The hesitation when slowing down and accelerating tend to happen when I drive. What to do, I went to the vw company they said if i want to change the transmission would cost me ~6k$ and f*ck me twice if if am paying 6k on a 2002 car.
View 3 RepliesLast night i noticed a slight hesitation during acceleration. Today i had driven around in town for awhile and did not notice any hesitation. When i got onto the interstate I pushed down the peddle to pass someone and it did nothing, I let off the gas and back on and the car bucked pretty bad. All the way home it has issues when I pressed on the gas but did fine at cruising speed. I would think a fuel filter would have been a slow progression issue so I am thinking maybe it is a sensor. I sprayed carb cleaner around vacuum hoses today and did not notice any surge so I think I eliminated a vacuum issue.
2004 Santa Fe 2.7 149k
My 2001 hyundai elantra hesitates throughout 0-15 mph I have changed out TPS,MAP,& IAC and i have did a full tune up and a transmission flush & I still have the same problem.
The one thing i did notice is the engine doesn't rev up when ac is on. Idle stays the same with A/C on or off.. when I go to plug the IAC in, with the car running it opens the valve but once i fully connect the plug it closes ... does the same thing with new and old IAC..... and the connector on plug is good..
I have a 2010 with about 166k miles. I am getting a slight hesitation at slight acceleration or constant speed. It does not matter if it's on highway or freeway speeds. Now I am not sure if this in junction with me changing the PCV valve, cleaning the EGR pipe, or cleaning the TB for carbon recently. It started happening a week after it though.
View 19 Replies2001 elantra 167000 miles, started a hesitation when given gas and check engine light came on. After hesitation rpms go up it runs good. Code is # 2 cylinder misfire. I have changed plugs, ignition coil and ran seaform into vacuum line and tank. Still no change. Could that 1 injector be clogged.
View 2 Replies2002 elantra hesitates and sometimes stalls staring from rest. Worse when cold but still sluggish after warm up. Where do I start?
View 7 RepliesWhen driving if you ease off the accelerator at an intersection and go again the car hesitates badly and then slowly picks up it has had new plugs etc., very worried nearly got wiped out this morning...
View 1 Replies2002 Hyundai Elantra GT 2.0L 140k miles
Symptoms:
- Intermittent rough idle when hot, slight shutter, surges between 700-800rmp
- Intermittent hesitation when accelerating, cylinder 2 misfire when hot and under load
- Misfires in all gears under load, mostly when under 2000rpm
- Code P0302 when scanned, no other codes
- Symptoms appeared suddenly, not gradually over time
What's been changed:
- Replaced spark plugs, little or no improvement. Old plugs looked worn, but generally in good shape with no significant deposits.
- Cleared code and swapped injectors between cylinders 1 and 2, after test drive P0302 code came back, so it seems that the injectors are good. If the injector were bad I would have expected the misfire to change from cylinder 2 to cylinder 1.
Inspection and Testing:
- Ignition System Testing
- Spark plug wires and primary coil are within specification.
- Secondary coil resistance is high on both packs. Could this be causing a problem with just cylinder 2? Is it worth replacing?
Spark Plug Wires: Specification: 5.6 Kohm/meter +- 20%Cylinder 1: 2.49 Kohm (Longest)Cylinder 2: 2.03 KohmCylinder 3: 1.64 KohmCylinder 4:1.36 Kohm (Shortest)
Primary Coil: Specification : 0.58ohms +- 10%Actual: .6 and .6
Secondary Coil: Specification: 12.2 Kohms +- 15%
Actual (Cold): 16.03K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 15.94K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Actual (Hot): 18.54K for Cylinder 2-3 pack and 18.44K for Cylinder 1-4 pack
Air/Fuel System Testing:Fuel system seems to check out. I do not believe the problem is fuel related. There are no obvious cracks or leaks on the intake manifold. A good spray of Carb cleaner all around the manifold causes no change in idle. I might try propane later. No obvious vacuum leaks.
Fuel Injector: Specification: 13.1-14.5 ohms
Actual: Cyl 1: 14.9, Cyl 2: 15.3, Cyl 3: 15.3, Cyl 4: 15.7
Compression Testing:Compression is not great, but within specification. Could the slightly lower compression in Cylinders 2 and 3 indicate a head gasket leak between those cylinders? Could this cause a misfire in Cylinder 2?
Dry Compression: Specification: 145-218psi, <15psi between cylinders
Actual: Cyl 1: 165, Cyl 2: 155, Cyl 3: 155, Cyl 4: 160
Oil/Coolant/Tailpipe:
- Oil looks normal, not brown or milky
- Coolant looks normal and is full, no signs of leaking (coolant has not been changed in a very long time, could a coolant flush work?)
- Exhaust looks and smells normal from tailpipe.
Sticking valve? How would I check this? Bad sensor somewhere? Doesn't a bad sensor usually throw a code?
I just bought a used 2004 Elantra that has 97,000 miles on it. When I took the vehicle out for a test drive it was smooth and quite. That was on Monday its now Saturday less than 300 miles later and the check engine light came on and it is having serious hesitation issues?! I am going to take it back where I purchased it from on Monday when they open but in the meantime I would like to know if its could be something simple?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2001 Elantra with 126k miles. For months it's been randomly hesitating, meaning I'll be riding along and suddenly the gas pedal will do nothing...then about 3 seconds later, VROOOM, the gas pedal will start working again. Recently, it's started stalling as well.
I've already replaced the MAP sensor, input speed sensor, throttle position sensor, spark plugs, wires, and coil pack. Nothing has worked, but it is getting progressively worse (it stalls more frequently, and the gas pedal becomes suddenly unresponsive more often).
My 2003 Elantra has multi spark (quad) electrodes? I have a hesitation on acceleration problem. Also feel resistance when pressing the gas pedal. I am going to change the plugs and wires. Just wondering if the type of plugs may contribute to the problem.
View 9 RepliesI am having trouble with my car bottoming out, scrubbing with slight bumps, and if I have 3 or 4 people in my car the back left tire scrubs 100%. I think the shocks are stock OEM and car has 130k Miles on it. Tires are also wearing REALLY fast and on one side. I need tires, alignment. I will not do this until I get the suspension fixed. I can NOT find Quik Struts (with the springs already compressed and in the strut housing. I can't even find the springs themselves anywhere. All my local parts places state they do not carry them. I can find Strut assemblies all day, but struts are a no go.
I am a bigger guy, and would like slightly stiffer suspension, and some that keep the car a tiny bit higher than normal. 2006 Elantra GLS....
The truck is in my Sig 01 F250 5.4
Just got back from a long trip with it. Parked it for 3 days, all was running fine. Went to dinner Sat night and all was great, left the restaurant and as soon as I started the engine I noticed a slight vibration. As soon as I hit 42 miles per hour, it started shaking pretty good. I pulled over and checked under the truck to make sure I did not have anything I was not supposed to hanging down.
Driveshaft looked good, nothing leaking from rear end or tranny. When it does vibrate, the Tach shows the unhappiness as well. This a.m. driving to work it was vibrating at all speeds and shifting was very rough, had a hard time deciding if it wanted to be in second or third gear. I don't think this is drive train issue... When it shutters and sputters at 40ish MPH, its almost like it loses power and I have to let off the gas. and then under power it shakes badly.
I had the super chip settings for performance tow when this started and then I changed it back to stock settings, thinking it might work, which it only got worse. Changing the settings with the Superchip you have to disable the fuel system and I do this by pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood in the power distro box.
I think the ujoints are still good, the oil and tranny fluid are spot on. Hubs are locked but in 2WD. Had all the front end replaced 15K miles ago. Brand new tires and wheels in Sept, front end alignment done at same time, front brakes were 90% and rear brakes at 20%.
I have a 2001 Elantra GLS. The tranny shifts smooth. At around 40mph, it wants to shift into what I guess is overdrive. At that speed it is like it can't figure out where it wants to be and will down and upshift. Aside from that the tranny has no other problems.
View 5 RepliesI've been catching up on some minor things with my car and have gotten to this one issue I've been having. When I take off from a stop I get a very slight click. Not every time but most of the time. It's a 2005 Elantra GT 5 speed. I replaced both axles due to torn boots. There is no play in the front end whatsoever, so I have ruled out ball joints and tie rod ends. Anything else I should look at?
View 15 Replies