Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2002 GLS Cranks But Doesn't Start (sometimes)
Jun 9, 2014
My 2002 Elantra GLS seems to have some sort of heat related problem.
I live in Arizona, where temperatures routinely reach well over 100. In the morning my car will start fine, after driving it for some time and parking somewhere, if I try and start the car within a couple hours of driving it, it will crank but not start. Lifting the hood to cool it seems to expedite this to get it started.
I had a mechanic friend of mine hook up his OBD computer at his shop, nothing out of the ordinary. He suspected either a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. No check engine light, nothing out of the ordinary on his computer check. I removed spark plug wires for cylinders 1 and 4 and I have spark while cranking when it fails to start. My mechanic friend said the spark would rule out a faulty crankshaft position sensor. I have also tried spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold, and it has no effect. The battery has been replaced within the last two months, connectors are new as well.
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We have 2 Hyundai a 2015 Sonta and a 2002 Elentra I am having problems with the 02 Elentra
I have a 2002 elentra that cranks but will not start it tries to but wouldn't start. It started fine before this and it did start once but ran really rough and only for a few seconds.
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The car cranks but doesn't start. I checked the fuel pump fuse & its OK. I sprayed carb cleaner in the intake & it started for about 2 seconds. What some of the possible causes?
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Have a 2002 malibu base 3.1 v6 that will not start. Battery charged, motor cranks, pump pumps 52psi at the rail, pink wire to injectors has 12v, fuses good, injectors click when jumped manually but not when starting. CPM is not grounding the six individual injectors to open nozzles. Bad CPM or is there another sensor I should look at?
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I have a 2001 mustang convertible in good cond. A 6cly that I have had very little trouble with over the past year. I put in a new battery then, just after I bought it from a dealer. The dealer had gone over it with fluids etc. and I had a friend look it over when I bought it. He said it was very clean and a good buy. So, last week I started having trouble starting it in the morning. It would crank but would not fire. I turned the key off, and then tried again, Same result, cranks but doesn't start. I turned it off again and being worried about draining the battery, I turned everything off, radio, heat and fan, lights. Then I tried to start it again and, it started. I'm thinking I need new plugs, but I ignored the problem and went to work.
A couple days later I was leaving the grocery store, turned the key and same thing again, cranks but doesn't fire. I knew what to do. Turned off everything and tried it again, it started. Ok, so now some repair, possible plugs, is on my priority list. I need to get this fixed before the bad winter weather comes. Yesterday, after a long day at work, I was ready to go home and I it happened again. This time it's terminal. No matter what I did I couldn't get it to fire. This morning it's sitting in the office parking lot and I need to deal with this today.
Could be plugs, could be the fuel pump. Before I call the dealer and pay 4x what I should for this, what do you think it could be? 3.8 6cly. The car is sitting on a slight incline, in the parking lot. Gravity pulls fuel from the engine to the gas tank, if a fuel pump is going bad this could be why I can't get it to start. I'm going to roll it to a level area and hit it with starting fluid to determine if the pump is bad. I'll also pull a couple plugs.
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My 2001 Accent GS (1.6L DOHC) wouldn't restart after a short 2 mile trip to a local store. The engine cranks fine but doesn't fire.
It has had a CEL issue for awhile and after it wouldn't start I checked the codes and got:
303
335
722
I replaced the Crank Position Sensor and Fuel Filter but it still just turns over.
I hear the fuel pump run when I turn the key on and I broke the fuel line and it is Pressurized, so I doubt it is a fuel issue.
The 722 code indicates the output speed sensor has an issue. Need to know definitively if that sensor is completely shot could this prevent the ECU from firing the engine?
I have had this car since it was brand new and I'd like to keep it going a little longer.
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I have an 01 Elantra GLS, automatic.
The initial problem started 3 months ago. The car would surge at highway speeds intermittently, but not throw any codes. It would only happen every couple of weeks.
First I replaced the fuel pump and fuel filter. The car seemed ok at first, but eventually bucked while driving at hwy speeds.
Next I replaced the fuel regulator, which is located in the tank, if I am correct.
The problem continued. Next, I replaced the throttle position sensor. Again the car would run as normal, but soon enough it did the same thing. In addition, it also wouldn't always start on the first try. Pretty quickly it wouldn't start at all.
I was able to get it started and drive it home, however the car had no power and seemed like it would stall if i pressed an the accelerator too much.
I had to replace the starter next, and I also replaced both the crank position sensor and the cam position sensor.
I do believe the engine was flooded at some point. I was able to get it to start, but it still ran rough. I replaced the plugs twice. The first set I replaced looked pretty dark. I suspect it was because of all the cranking but no fire.
The last time I got it to start I did get a misfire code for cylinders 1&4, and it still runs rough and has no power. After shutting the engine off, I was unable to get it started again. That is when I put in the second set of plugs.
I have verified that the injectors are getting power at the same time as the plugs. I have ohmed out the primary and secondary sides of both coil packs and they are the same and within specs. I have also ohmed out the injectors and they are also all the same and within range. I have verified 12v power to the coil packs and injectors.
I have ohmed out the plug wires and they appear to be good. the resistance increases with the length of the wires. Is it possible that I have lost compression in cylinders 1&4 because of flooding the engine?
PS. The mileage is 155k
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I've been having problems with my '02 Elantra. It shudders and doesn't accelerate well (or at all) going up hill, or attempting to accelerate quickly (like passing a car on the interstate). If I try to push it through these situations it will run worse, engine light flashes, and sometimes will stall. In the past, when it stalled, it would start up again in about 30mins or so.
Codes it has thrown were P0304, P0303, and P0420.
When I took it to mechanic, he really couldn't figure it out. He ended up testing and replacing fuel pump motor in November. Got it back and within a few days it was throwing same codes and having same symptoms.
Everything else from this point as been DIY. I bought a manual, researched these forums, learned as I went, and did the following myself:
I changed the spark plugs and wires. Still ran as described above but at this point when the engine light comes on, I am only down to the P0304 code right now.
Thought perhaps it was a vacuum leak. I have very few tools, and Autozone said I could use seafoam as a means to tell if I had a leak if smoke came out of vacuum lines as I put it in. I tried this, none came out of vacuum lines that I could tell. I drove it after seafoam, some white smoke came out tail pipe from solution but dissipated after driving a little while, and then I had the shuddering issues and loss of power while driving the interstate. It literally would act like I wasn't pressing the gas peddle, then suddenly surge as if it realized I was... engine continued to run until I pulled over and then it stalled. Normally it would start right back up after 30mins or so. But this time it didn't, I had to tow it home.
With a crap load of starter fluid and jamming the gas pedal, I finally got it to start. It ran horribly at idle, had a weird knock. So I didn't drive it and did the following instead.
I replaced the coil pack.
Replaced crank position sensor.
I confirmed that I have spark on all 4 cylinders.
There are no obvious oil leaks (nothing on garage floor and I don't see any obvious signs of wet oil on engine or smoke when it runs)
Temperature is fine, coolant level is normal & hasn't needed refill or topping off.
I pulled the fuel pump again, noticed that the fuel sock had holes and was full of muddy/pasty type crap. Gas was dark, cloudy in spots, and appeared to separate in some areas.
Replaced fuel sock.
Syphoned gas.
Thoroughly cleaned out gas tank.
Put premium gas in.
Manually cleaned fuel injectors.
Reassembled and it started right up, runs strong, no more weird knock, but the other symptoms start to reappear... the shuddering, loss of power, and stalling. Its intermittent... sometimes when I jam on the gas peddle, sometimes when I'm cruising at low speeds. I can force it to stall by jamming on the gas peddle to the floor, acts like it's choking, engine light flashes, lose power, then it stalls. Pretty much every time I push it like that.
I can continue to limp it to Autozone for codes, but the engine light currently isn't on.... and it usually takes it a hard drive pushing it through the symptoms for the light to appear, and it's always been the P0304 code at this point.
Is there anything else I can do from home with no special testing equipment?
Is there a part or sensor that would cause these symptoms and NOT throw a code other than the misfire?
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I just purchased an '01 Elantra a few days ago. The car starts and runs when the engine is cool, although it hesitates during acceleration, and when it's warm outside it bounces between 1000 and 2000 RPM in neutral and park. The last day or so it's been chilly and the idle has been steady, but low (500 RPM). Once the engine warms up, however, if you shut it off for a few minutes and try to restart it cranks but won't start until the engine cools off.
The previous owner replaced the fuel pump, cam sensor, crank sensor, spark plugs and wires, and I replaced the intake gasket and the idle air control valve, all with no effect. I can hear the fuel pump when I key it on, and I've checked for spark at each of the plugs, and even pulled the injectors and cranked it a few times to be sure that they were firing. Everything seems to be in working order.
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My car has 203K Miles on it and today when I left for work, it started up after a few more cranks than normal, sputtered a bit and then stalled. I then went to start it again and it would only crank. The fuel was low, but not empty. Normally, the car will have a hard time starting like that when the fuel is low. It is getting colder and those issue are normally amplified. I will list my recent issues with the car below:
- Speedometer jumps all over the place most of the time. Only under throttle does it fixate on the correct speed.
- Check engine light came on a couple of months ago and it was gas cap related. Also related to the fuel tank charcoal filter. After a couple of full tank fill-ups, it went away.
Now, I checked all of the fuses and belts. I pulled the Fuel Pump relay and smelled it and shook it. The one for AC next to it was the same one, so I put it in place of the fuel pump and went to start the car. It had very little power to crank suddenly. So I went back out and placed the relays back in their respective spots. Then I tried to start the car and it cranked even slower until the battery died it seems and the car now has fast clicks when trying to crank.
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I got a caprice 94 l99 it was driving perfect. i was on my way home then it started to put put then the engine cut. gave it like 3 mins it started drove 1 block started to put then the engine cut. now doesnt start at all just cranks the gas gauge says it has 1/4 tank of gas.
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I've got a Mk4 Golf 2.0L with 136k on the clock. Hasn't really given me any problems in the past year of ownership till now. I recently picked her up from the shop for a rear axle beam replacement. When I picked her up she drove fine. I headed to class for the day and she sat in a parking lot for 6 hours or so. I hop in and try to fire her up and nothing. Had to have her towed back to my apartments. I've checked fuses, spark plugs were recently replaced but I am getting no spark. When I crank it I do hear the fuel pump and I can smell gas when I crank it. The rpms go up just a bit, 100-200 range. Going to check out the crankshaft sensor later on. maybe it could be the coil pack as well? I don't know a huge amount about these cars, only some info. And I sadly have no access to a scanner to check for codes.
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When i try to turn on my car it cranks but it doe not start. It starts when i pump the gas pedal multiple times but when i let go of the gas it just dies. i have used a scanner to find any codes but no codes come outs.
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This has been happening for awhile now. I will drive somewhere, distance isn't a problem, and then after I'm done, I'll go to start my car, and it won't start. It won't turn over or whatever the term is. The starter tries, but won't bite. Sometimes it will start and I can drive for a bit before it will die about a block or 2 later.
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I have a 2009 Corolla 1.8L. It turns over but won't start. I don't hear the fuel pump when I turn the key on or when I try to start it. There are 3 EFI fuses, and all of them are good. There doesn't seem to be an EFI relay (correct me if I'm wrong). I've replaced the fuel pump and it still won't start.
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I have a 03 xc90 t6 came out of work the other day and it wouldn't start replaced spark plugs, both cam sensors, crank sensor. After doing all that it sounds like it wants to fire now but doesnt.
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I've got a 1998 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4x4, 4.0 L I6, automatic, 169k miles, that often cranks but doesn't start up. When I cut the power and try again, it starts up right away. I'm concerned this workaround will one day not work and I'll be left stranded, so I'd like to fix this if it's cheap and easy. The symptoms suggest either a lack of fuel or lack of spark due to an electrical problem, so I replaced the ASD (auto shutdown) and Fuel Pump relays, but they made no difference. The other two relays - Starter and Cooling Fan - seemed irrelevant. What this could be? Maybe the crank angle sensor? (I'm not even sure where that's located.)
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My GF has a 2002 Elantra, and recently, she's had a remote start kit put in her car. Previously, though, we were moving something in/out of her car and broke the shift knob and the rod became bent, so we had to bend the rod back to be able to put the car back into park. (The car is an auto).
Recently, she's had a couple rough/no starts from her car. There have been a few times where she would come over to my house and the car would not restart soon after she turns off the ignition. However, the car will start rough about 3 hours later and run perfectly fine once it cranks. This doesn't happen often, but enough to be troublesome.
The problem with this though is the fact that sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't, and it runs PERFECTLY fine. The lights are not dimming, the battery is not dying, the car has not required to be jumped. While having these problems we drove the car around for about 5-6 hours and it was perfectly fine. Her dad thinks it's the alternator, but the battery hasn't been losing any charge and the battery hasn't been dying. There has been one time where her father moved the shifter up and down and put it back into park and the car started just fine. Could this be related to the shifter, and how the car isn't reading that's it's fully in park to relay ignition? Her dad said he tested the alternator and it was "bad," but like I said, if the alternator was bad, her battery would be losing charge, and that is definitely not the case.
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I had a rough idle and now car wont start. 2002 elantra, 4 cylinder. replaced tps, replaced fuel filer, cleaned IAC. I can hear fuel pump car wont stay running...
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 5spd manual GT with 90k miles. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago. The previous owner claims he did regular maintenance on it. He said the timing belt and water pump were done around 65k miles but didn't have paperwork on it. Has brand new tires. Battery is a year and a half old. I just replaced the spark plugs and plug wires a few days ago just because I don't know when the last time the previous owner changed them. 3/4 showed normal wear and were probably needing to be replaced. One of them (the one all the way to the drivers side) had a decent amount of corrosion built up in the wall leading down to the spark plug and then around the fitting for the 5/8 socket had quite a bit of corrosion around it to. The end of the plug looked like the rest of the plugs however. Before I installed the new plug I cleaned it up. As far as I know there isn't any other mechanical issues. He said he had the clutched replaced too. Which I find a little odd because it doesn't even have 100k miles on it yet and if it wasn't driven like a race car, that clutch should last a lot longer I would think.
My girlfriend was driving it home from work today and it died on her when she stopped at the off ramp of a freeway. I showed up and pushed the clutch pedal down as hard as I could and it fired right up. However, I walked away then she called me back because she couldn't get it to accelerate after that. Unfortunately I didn't actually try to drive it at that point which was stupid so it's possible she just didn't have it in gear all the way however it appeared that she did. It then shortly after died and hasn't started since. I'm getting power to everything else in the car including headlights and some lights and everything else I can think of. It won't even attempt to crank. It just does nothing when I try to turn it over.
I believe a few people recommended changing the crankshaft sensor. I have read that if the crankshaft sensor goes bad it will have the problem I am currently facing. At this point I'm assuming my girlfriend just didn't have it in gear and that's why it couldn't accelerate because if that wasn't the case, then that sounds to me like it's slipping and the clutch needs to be replaced. Anyways, other than the crankshaft sensor, I am thinking possibly the starter or alternator. I know it has a MAP instead of a MAF sensor and I know where it is but I'm not sure if that would cause this issue because I figured it would at least turn over. If it was the alternator if the batteries were dead I would charge them and if it died again that would be a strong indicator it was the alternator. But the batteries didn't really read low and I threw them on the charger anyways and it said it was fully charged shortly after I did that, and then I tried starting it again and still nothing. So right now I'm leaning towards the starter or this crankshaft sensor. My buddy said to take a screwdriver to the starter and try to jump it but how exactly to do that to test it. I have read multiple things online for other vehicles that the crankshaft sensor being bad will cause the car to not start.
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS with over 215,000 miles. About a month ago, I started my car and it revved up & down from 2 to 4 rpm. I took it to my mechanic and replaced the TPS, thinking it would fix it. What to do next. My mechanic fixes cars, but doesn't do it professionally. I don't have the money to take it to a dealership.
Now, after doing a tune-up and changing out other sensors the RPMs came down to 3 and will stay at 3 rpm when I start the car. When I drive it, it pulls on it's own without touching the gas pedal and is hard to brake. What else I need to fix or replace?
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