Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2002 - Fuel Leak From A Black Vented Box
Mar 10, 2007
I came out of my house this morning and noticed a large wet spot under the back of my car. Upon investigation it appears to be a fuel leak from a black vented box that is immediately behind the driver side rear tire and connected directly beside the gas tank. there are 2 hoses that appear to be fuel hoses going into the forward end of this box.
I disconnected two mounting nuts and looked inside but it is an enclosed box mounted inside the casing. I can't find any info on the net or any illustrated parts lists. What this box is and why it might be leaking fuel? The box is rather large maybe 12 to 14 inches long by 8 to 10 inches wide by at least 6 inches deep.
I did fill up my tank last night and I "topped" it off to round the price. My car also parks on a fairly decent slope in my driveway rear end first.
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I was just curious is there a fuel line replacement that's pre-molded? Or do I need to get a roll of a certain diameter line and mold it my self? It's leaking right under the drivers door and it used to be pretty small but has gotten bigger. I can take a picture of the location if needed?
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I have an '02 Elantra GT with ~175,000 miles.
CEL is on, gives code about evaporative emissions control system, P0441. Shop manual says a)Purge control solenoid valve or b) vacuum leak.
Symptoms are very rough idle, strong smell of gas at startup, erratic, racing idle when starting or cruising to a stop in neutral.
Replaced PCSV, didn't WORK. Went looking for vacuum leak. Seems to be at the fuel injector that's on the end, passenger side, on the manifold side. There's a noticeable hiss, and when I spray gumout at the injector it changes idle. Replaced the injector O-rings. Didn't make a difference. What next?
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I own a 2002 Elantra GT that's had a decent repair record but just yesterday developed a leak that is almost exactly 18" toward center from the outside of the right front tire and 5" to the rear of the center of the tire (18" in, 5" back from rf tire). It doesn't seem to be a small leak and unfortunately I don't know what the fluid is. I've never changed the oil myself and have never seen the undercarriage. The measurements were made by marking the the concrete by the front tire then measuring in to the deposit.
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Wife's 2002 elantra is leaking at the fuel rail pretty badly. Looks like maybe there should have been a hose clamp on it, i can see the indentations on at the rail on the rubber fitting. So i put a hose clamp on it. stopped leaking....just went out a few hours later to check it again, started it up....started leaking same spot.
We are getting a new car in 3-4 months. All i want to do is replace the line from the rail to...the next closest fitting.
Are there any videos? PIctures? Documents how to do this? I've never replaced a fuel line, doesn't seem like it could be hard. Just don't know how those fittings work. I've been known to turn a few wretches here and there.
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My wifes 2002 gls has a coolant leak from the top radiator hose. I put a new hose on and two new clamps on the leaking end and it still leaks!! I have never seen anything like this and I am not sure how to stop it.
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I have a leak from the engine area (Pic attached. The part is just behind the radiator). I see the leak when the car is parked and cold. When I check that leak after I drive for few minutes, the fluid is evaporated from the engine. Is this the coolant? The temperature is ok. I added some coolant in the reservoir since the level was below the min level. Can this be an oil leak? I can't get a good read on what the fluid is.
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I purchased a used 2005 Elantra two weeks ago. In the last two days, it began spraying oil at high RPMs. The oil pools on top of the transaxle (driver-side engine compartment), and down the front of the engine onto the exhaust manifold, giving burning smell and smoke. Trying to find where it was coming from, I cleaned everything thoroughly, but I can't locate the leak/spray. If I drive under 3500 RPM, no oil sprays or accumulates. Over that, it does. Oil filter was tight (first thing I checked), can't find any obviously loose fittings or bolts. Where this may be coming from, or should I just bite the bullet and go to the dealer for diagnosis?
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Check light came on and I had the code read at AutoZone. There were 3 codes but I'm pretty sure 2 are old (the check light previously came on a couple of months ago and I had it checked, then went off on its own). My car seems to be driving fine.
The new one is P0455. Large EVAP leak. I'm hoping it is just my gas cap.
The other 2 (older) codes are P0456 (small leak) and P0113 (IAT error).
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I have a 2005 Hyundai Elantra GT Hatchback, and it is not going so well with me at the moment. My thermostat works perfectly fine, but my car is overheating. I've taken it to the shop multiple times but still doesn't seem to get fixed. My coolant seems to be fine, and stays at its level, but what doesn't seem to be fine is that it doesn't seem to be sucking strong enough into the radiator so that it can go to the engine! On the lower level coolant cap (one with the hose attached), it seems to be leaking out of there when the car is hot, as if the coolant is trying to suck into the radiator but not strong enough but yet leaks out of it since it isn't strong enough. My theory is, the cap with the hose isn't on tight enough to fully let the coolant suck through the hose, and so air leaks cause the coolant to leak out of it and not into the radiator.
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I changed my front catalytic converter yesterday. Everything was installed properly and the repair went smooth. Unfortunately when I started the car, I discovered the connection between the bottom of the cat and the connecting pipe was leaking out a ton of exhaust. The previous cat didn't leak like that. I put in a new gasket and tightened the bolts extra tight but the leak is still there. The worst part is that the leaking exhaust fumes are all traveling up into the hood, which makes it look like the engine is smoking. What should I do to stop the leak? I even tried using muffler tape but that only worked for an hour until it hardened and sounded like crap.
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2010 Sonata, AC isn't working correctly so we added 1 1/2 cans freon. Got the temps down to 40 and then it was running for about a half hour, we started the car after it sat for 20 mins and it appeared that the ac "vented" some freon out. The pressures were 225 high side and 33-35 low side, the ambient temp is around 87 degrees. The venting appeared to be committed no from the lower drivers side condenser. I may be wrong, but never seen this before. Anyway, after it "vented" his ac basically stopped working but the ac gauges still read 210 high side and around 25 low side......
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Looking for some insight into the state of the motor in a 2002 XD. Short story is that it appears to be leaking oil from the valve cover gasket (common, I know) and sometimes winds up running extremely low on oil before it gets changed. When draining the minimal oil in these conditions, non insignificant amounts of water can be found along with the drained oil.
Car is at 155k miles, has exhibited this behavior for more than a year, and has no noticeable knocking issues, power loss, mpg loss, heating/cooling issues, or any other ill effects other than apparently making a mess in the engine bay, on the ground where it parks, and scaring people when draining the oil.
Logically this is going to not be the case forever.... Thoughts? Prognosis? Treatment?
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I replaced my Radiator, Upper and Lower Hoses, Thermostat and the thermostat gasket yesterday. I am leaking coolant from the thermostat though, It's coming from the seal between the housing and the block. The gasket was brand new and seemed to fit fine. I don't see any damage around where the seal is made..
Going to run and get a new gasket when the store opens.
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I have an Oct 2001 2.7 GLS which apart from the odd ABS Tone Wheel and speed sensor issues has been uber reliable and a real pleasure to own (I've had it from new).
We had a problem about a year ago when the wife didn't get the fuel cut-off when filling up and over filled the car resulting in fuel pouring out of the tank vent and down the fuel tank under the car but after a long drive that cleared up and has not happened again. Interestingly we didn't get any engine CEL's or have any codes turn up at all when checked by my mechanic.
Over the past couple of weeks we have noticed a very strong smell of fuel under the car around the fuel tank. I can't see any indication that there is a fuel leak but have noticed when filling up that the smell is very strong and as the car runs the fuel down the smell reduces to almost nothing.
Today I removed the rear seats and the fuel pump access panels to see if there was any seeping around the pump gaskets but couldn't see anything and the top of the tank around the both pumps was a dry as a bone. Using a torch I did however notice that there was a darkening of the fuel tank surface in the centre which I guess is close to the vent valve, part 311990b:
Or maybe is where the fuel vent pipe runs to?
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I hear a bit of exhaust leak noise from engine compartment only at a cold startup, it goes away in seconds. I am 700miles from home. If it's a nonessential fix i will drive home before fixing, or, if an easy gasket replacement, I have two more days here, and tools,garage, and competent support to diy the job.
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My power steering seems to have sprung a leak. There is quite a bit of fluid below the passenger side of the steering rack. The leak seems to be right below where the power steering hose comes down off the pump, gets secured to the chassis and changes to metal line from rubber. The metal line then goes into an L bend and is routed towards the driver side right where the leak apparently is.
I haven't had a chance to have a good look, as it was 10:30 at night when I parked it and looked (12km of careful city driving since it started to act up)
Is this a high pressure or return line?
The leak seems to be forward of the steering rack, so hopefully I wont have to replace it.
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2001 Sport trac, we are throwing a large leak evap code. The check fuel cap light came on and went out after replacing the cap, but we are still getting the code. Is there a known problem area to look at or is it a job for the smoke machine?
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I picked up a Haynes manual for the engine/head removal. It has the procedure for 2003 pressure release by unplugging the fuel pump and running until it dies. Unfortunately the car does not run. I do not know what to do now.
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I replaced my battery. Once I connected my new battery, my fuel and temperature gauge started working strangely. They would either be high, then go low, then go back high. My interior lights, clock, and radio stopped working. Could it be a relay? I checked all the fuses with a test light and they all looked good.
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Replaced fuel filter. Got all 4 washers plus cap from old filter. Engine won't start. Saw there is a fifth rubber washer that nobody mentions anywhere and transferred that to the new pump. still won't run.
When I turn the key to On, I can hear the pump turn on for 2 secs and stop. if I do this 5-6 times and then try to start, engine will start and then die immediately. seems the pump is not pumping when the engine tries to run. it pumps only for two secs when the key goes from Off to On position.
There are two lines going to the pump. which one feeds the engine. if I disconnect that line, should I see fuel coming out when I turn the key and try to start the engine?? or is there a better place to disconnect closer to the engine??
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