Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2002 - Delayed RPM Drop Between Shifts
Feb 13, 2015
My nephew's car is a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS manual. His RPM's hang when he shifts and it is a pain to shift.
I took it to the dealer and had them do TSB#04-36-011 Delayed RPM drop between shifts. This TSB supersedes TSB 01-36-025. Here is a link for the newest TSB : [URL] ....
The TSB Basically tells them to erase ECM adaption values. Then, you update the ECM with new FUEL cut-off logic. When we drove off the dealers lot the delay was not better, just different.
After driving it for a day or two we saw improvement. Now when you push in the clutch the RPM's go up slightly for a second to burn off the gas then the RPM's drop faster than before.
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I have only done 18,000 Kms on my 2013 Elantra GLS. Whenever I am in traffic driving real slow, and whenever the gear shifts in 2nd, the acceleration begins to drop to 1000/1500 RPM very rapidly while pressing and releasing the pedal, and it becomes jerky...
I will try posting a video, but meanwhile, it gets really annoying at times and I need to maintain a very feather foot to make sure it doesn't jerk especially when there are passengers on board..
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I have a 2003 Elantra, which I've had for several years, and love greatly. Recently though, she's been giving me problems.
When it first started happening, about 6 months ago, it seemed that she was simply sluggish, and wouldn't accelerate as well as normal when I pushed the gas.
It has gotten worse from there, within the past 4 months, sometimes when I turn her on, she idles very rough, and the entire car shakes. Originally when this started happening, if I turned her off and back on, she would run smoothly again. Unfortunately that's no longer the case.
If I attempt to drive anywhere when she's acting up, pushing the gas makes the RPM drop down, and she doesn't move. This has caused a lot of problems at stop where I'm turning onto a busy road. Occasionally when I'm driving around, her RPM drops far below what it should. For example, she frequently drops down to 700 RPM when I'm driving 35 mph... normally when going that speed, the RPM is about 2000.
Most troubling to me is the fact that the engine turns off on me without warning sometimes. I've had her do it when I'm at a stop waiting to turn, at stop lights, and dangerously, even when I'm slowing down through traffic or getting ready to pull into a parking spot.
I've tried multiple things, fuel injector cleaners, replacing temperature sensors, and I've checked all the valves, wires, and hoses. I've had it attached to a code reader and of course she never acts up while it's attached.
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Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
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I have a 2002 Elantra GLS with the 4 speed auto and in the mornings or after sitting in lot at work for 9 hours, the trans shifts hard from second to third (almost as if it has a shift kit) and slips a little from third to fourth. The TPS was changed once and that seemed to eliminate problems at the 26K mark. I have 109K on it now and at around 80k took it in to the dealer with the receipt for the same complaint and what was done the first time. Dealer kept overnight and said there were no problems. I do know from having a performance TH350 built that the harder a trans shifts (up to a point) the longer it will last due to less friction on clutches and bands.
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2001 Elantra shifts to overdrive only after running 3000 rpm for a mile. Then at other times it shifts to overdrive ok. fluid is ok Sometimes putting the shifter into neutral with the car rolling and putting it back into drive will get it to upshift.
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Its a 2005 Elantra i dont know the sub model, but they said the heat will be working just fine, then out of no where it stops, at first i thought it was the issue's i've seen on here before about a bad blower, but its still blowing it just goes from hot to cold, and then it will shift back again after x amount of time.
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All of a sudden my fuel consumption dropped from 28mpg as read from the computer display in the dash, to 21mpg. This was not a gradual drop, it was at 28mpg one day and 21mpg the next day. There is no service light on, do these cars produce codes that don't trigger the service light?
A few months ago the vehicle was getting stuck in various gears and lunging, this was from battery corrosion dripping down and eating away at the transaxle range sensor. I cleaned up the battery and replaced the range sensor and the vehicle was driveable again. It re-learned the shift timing and seemed to be ok, then about a month ago it seemed to be forgetting the learned shift positions after sitting over night, I replaced the battery, thinking it was in a marginal state where it would forget the program while sitting. The shifting is still hard sometimes but this seems to have worked but, now my mileage is horrible.
I thought I'd just change out the oxygen and air flow sensors but, then looked at how much they cost now, and realized this would be some costly trial and error. Is there a methodical way to troubleshoot this issue, any way to pull the sensors and measure them?
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06 Elantra Limited, 96,xxx miles. When I'm idling at a light or something, the Rpms drop for a split second, almost to the point of stalling, but recovers. Happens in a split second. Does the same thing even when driving, but does it more frequently when idling. It even does that when I first put my foot on the throttle to accelerate from a red light.
I've cleaned the throttle body but it still does it. I've taken it to 3auto parts stores. One said that battery was bad. The other said the battery is fine but alternator is producing low. The last said both are fine.
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Truck is 04 supercrew with 5.4 and 140,000 miles. I have the typical shutter when cruising 55 - 60 and just ease on the throttle to pass someone. I chalked that up to the torque converter unlocking, if I punch it instead of easing into it, it will not shutter. As of yesterday, it acts like the converter is going to full lock up almost immediately. It will bang when it shifts and rpm's drop to lock up range. A few times it has killed the engine when I shift into D. No codes at all, I removed the programmer and installed the stock tune, no change, unhooked battery, no change, fluid is good, and twice after leaving stop signs it worked perfect until the next stop. I believe that it is an electrical control problem.
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My 2001 Suburban, 1500, 5.3L, 2WD with 164k miles, has a problem with high idle and delayed shifting. The high idle occurs when the vehicle has been driven around for awhile. When I start it up, even when already warm, idle is normal (~600 rpm). After some time, however, it idles at 900 to 1100 rpm. The delayed shifting happens right away--almost like I have the tow/haul mode turned on.
I have cleaned out the idle air port, cleaned the MAF sensor, replaced the idle air control valve, replaced the PCV valve, replaced the engine temperature sensor, and unhooked the battery to reset things. It still idles high.
I first noticed this a few weeks ago when the battery died. After I put in the new battery, the idle was very low. So I cleaned out the idle air port and valve. Then it was high. I drove it around for a few days like that and then started replacing stuff, to no avail--still high. I also cleaned around the throttle plate.
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Brother in law has the above truck with shifting problem. On a cold start, pulling out of the driveway, it will get to about 3-4000 rpm and will slam into gear. Sometimes its worse than others, but is consistant. Once it warms up, the problem goes away for the most part.
I've researched a little online and have found a few people mention the 1-2 shift accumulator (servo...?) and was wondering if any of you have ran into this or have replaced one on the A4LD.
And if you have, which servo is the 1-2 shift? I think there are 6 of the little suckers in there. Anyway, all i've done so far is fluid and filter. Old fluid looked/smelled fine.
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Hey Guys, Picked up a nice 2002 Elantra with the best service history car fax I have ever seen. Every 3k oil was changed at dealership, all maintenance schedules were followed and I'm just at 100k. I love it! Its so gentle on fuel for me.
Anyways, I noticed whenever I start the car, the AC light is on and I have to turn off.
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I bought a 2002 elentra and didn't know there was an alarm on it. For some reason was activated well I was in the store yesterday and I can not turn it off or start my car w/o it going off. I have tried unhooking the battery and resetting it as instructed by others but still keeps going off. I do not have a remote for it. How do I disable the alarm so I can drive my car again?
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I just recently picked up a 2002 Hyundai Elantra. After driving the first time I noticed that the car was stating I was moving faster then I was. I brought it to a shop. and they stated that the car was reading in KPH and not MPH. they also do not know how to change it back.
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Does Delayed Accessory Relay 306 control radio on an 02 F-350?
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Yesterday, my 2002 Elantra started to rev ferociously (I was turning a corner in 1st gear), so I put it in neutral, and the engine calmed down. I shifted back to 1st, then 2nd, and the engine started to rev up again without me stepping on the gas. I pulled over and stopped the car. After 10 minutes, I started the car and put it in neutral. The engine idled normally, then started revving up again - really fast - all by itself! I left the car overnight and this morning, put WD-40 on the accelerator cable and today it drove fine, so far.
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When the A/C is on it puts a good load on the engine. It's fine when it's going down the road when the accelerator is being used but at an idle it bogs the engine, it doesn't cut off but you can feel the load. Isn't there a solenoid or sensor, or something that's suppose to make the accelerator compensate for the load and if so what is it called and where is it located, and how to check it?
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I was wondering what could be causing my Elantra to hesitate? I have the 2.0 5 speed 4 door sedan. It only hesitates below 1500 rpms in all of the gears. I was curious if plugs and wires could work out pretty good? I know when I changed them out in my old Saturn SL1, that stopped the hesitation.
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The stock headlights on my 02' Elantra GLS Automatic were not bright enough, I could barely see anything at night. So in December I put in Silverstar 55w bulbs. In May the passenger side bulb died. I warranty replaced the bulb. The same bulb died again last week. I replaced it again with the same bulbs. Is it possibly my car can only handle 35W bulbs, or wiring issues, or faulty fuse? Not sure whats going on.
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i have a 2002 santa fe which will not go into 5th and reverse So i have put a new clutch in and new oil ....
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