Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2002 - At Start Up Revved Up And Down From 2 To 4 Rpms
Apr 19, 2011
I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GLS with over 215,000 miles. About a month ago, I started my car and it revved up & down from 2 to 4 rpm. I took it to my mechanic and replaced the TPS, thinking it would fix it. What to do next. My mechanic fixes cars, but doesn't do it professionally. I don't have the money to take it to a dealership.
Now, after doing a tune-up and changing out other sensors the RPMs came down to 3 and will stay at 3 rpm when I start the car. When I drive it, it pulls on it's own without touching the gas pedal and is hard to brake. What else I need to fix or replace?
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2001 elantra has been revving really high on cold starts, RPMs will stay at over 3000 till u switch it into drive or reverse, Never happens when engine is warm, had intake cleaned out, did not solve issue...
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2002 Elantra auto trans issue.
We are experiencing NO throttle after the car sits over night. But Not every time. When I write "NO throttle" the car will start but will not increase rpms with pedal input/movement. Runs at idle only. After a few minutes, it picks up the pedal input and is fine until is sits over night, sometimes.
I have changed out the TPS and no change. The car has just over 80000 miles and otherwise runs like a champ. There is no check engine light or any stored codes. The cable rotates freely at the TB. I read in the forums that the TPS replacements can be suspect.
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This has been happening for awhile now. I will drive somewhere, distance isn't a problem, and then after I'm done, I'll go to start my car, and it won't start. It won't turn over or whatever the term is. The starter tries, but won't bite. Sometimes it will start and I can drive for a bit before it will die about a block or 2 later.
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We have 2 Hyundai a 2015 Sonta and a 2002 Elentra I am having problems with the 02 Elentra
I have a 2002 elentra that cranks but will not start it tries to but wouldn't start. It started fine before this and it did start once but ran really rough and only for a few seconds.
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My 2002 Elantra GLS seems to have some sort of heat related problem.
I live in Arizona, where temperatures routinely reach well over 100. In the morning my car will start fine, after driving it for some time and parking somewhere, if I try and start the car within a couple hours of driving it, it will crank but not start. Lifting the hood to cool it seems to expedite this to get it started.
I had a mechanic friend of mine hook up his OBD computer at his shop, nothing out of the ordinary. He suspected either a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. No check engine light, nothing out of the ordinary on his computer check. I removed spark plug wires for cylinders 1 and 4 and I have spark while cranking when it fails to start. My mechanic friend said the spark would rule out a faulty crankshaft position sensor. I have also tried spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold, and it has no effect. The battery has been replaced within the last two months, connectors are new as well.
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My GF has a 2002 Elantra, and recently, she's had a remote start kit put in her car. Previously, though, we were moving something in/out of her car and broke the shift knob and the rod became bent, so we had to bend the rod back to be able to put the car back into park. (The car is an auto).
Recently, she's had a couple rough/no starts from her car. There have been a few times where she would come over to my house and the car would not restart soon after she turns off the ignition. However, the car will start rough about 3 hours later and run perfectly fine once it cranks. This doesn't happen often, but enough to be troublesome.
The problem with this though is the fact that sometimes it starts and sometimes it doesn't, and it runs PERFECTLY fine. The lights are not dimming, the battery is not dying, the car has not required to be jumped. While having these problems we drove the car around for about 5-6 hours and it was perfectly fine. Her dad thinks it's the alternator, but the battery hasn't been losing any charge and the battery hasn't been dying. There has been one time where her father moved the shifter up and down and put it back into park and the car started just fine. Could this be related to the shifter, and how the car isn't reading that's it's fully in park to relay ignition? Her dad said he tested the alternator and it was "bad," but like I said, if the alternator was bad, her battery would be losing charge, and that is definitely not the case.
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I had a rough idle and now car wont start. 2002 elantra, 4 cylinder. replaced tps, replaced fuel filer, cleaned IAC. I can hear fuel pump car wont stay running...
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra 2.0 5spd manual GT with 90k miles. I just bought the car 2 weeks ago. The previous owner claims he did regular maintenance on it. He said the timing belt and water pump were done around 65k miles but didn't have paperwork on it. Has brand new tires. Battery is a year and a half old. I just replaced the spark plugs and plug wires a few days ago just because I don't know when the last time the previous owner changed them. 3/4 showed normal wear and were probably needing to be replaced. One of them (the one all the way to the drivers side) had a decent amount of corrosion built up in the wall leading down to the spark plug and then around the fitting for the 5/8 socket had quite a bit of corrosion around it to. The end of the plug looked like the rest of the plugs however. Before I installed the new plug I cleaned it up. As far as I know there isn't any other mechanical issues. He said he had the clutched replaced too. Which I find a little odd because it doesn't even have 100k miles on it yet and if it wasn't driven like a race car, that clutch should last a lot longer I would think.
My girlfriend was driving it home from work today and it died on her when she stopped at the off ramp of a freeway. I showed up and pushed the clutch pedal down as hard as I could and it fired right up. However, I walked away then she called me back because she couldn't get it to accelerate after that. Unfortunately I didn't actually try to drive it at that point which was stupid so it's possible she just didn't have it in gear all the way however it appeared that she did. It then shortly after died and hasn't started since. I'm getting power to everything else in the car including headlights and some lights and everything else I can think of. It won't even attempt to crank. It just does nothing when I try to turn it over.
I believe a few people recommended changing the crankshaft sensor. I have read that if the crankshaft sensor goes bad it will have the problem I am currently facing. At this point I'm assuming my girlfriend just didn't have it in gear and that's why it couldn't accelerate because if that wasn't the case, then that sounds to me like it's slipping and the clutch needs to be replaced. Anyways, other than the crankshaft sensor, I am thinking possibly the starter or alternator. I know it has a MAP instead of a MAF sensor and I know where it is but I'm not sure if that would cause this issue because I figured it would at least turn over. If it was the alternator if the batteries were dead I would charge them and if it died again that would be a strong indicator it was the alternator. But the batteries didn't really read low and I threw them on the charger anyways and it said it was fully charged shortly after I did that, and then I tried starting it again and still nothing. So right now I'm leaning towards the starter or this crankshaft sensor. My buddy said to take a screwdriver to the starter and try to jump it but how exactly to do that to test it. I have read multiple things online for other vehicles that the crankshaft sensor being bad will cause the car to not start.
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So for about two months now, every time I get gas, the pump cuts off almost immediately after i start pumping. After that, I am able to pump about a second or two before the pump shuts off. It recently has started spitting gas back out of the tank (I'm assuming it's the gas I just pumped into it being spit out). I'm not sure what is wrong. I have not gotten into an accident, there is no smell of gas in the car, the gauge still works fine, and no check engine light on.
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I am trying to fix the pesky hard start that I have. My car doesn't start right up anymore unless it is frozen cold. Other than that it takes 2-3 cranks sometimes 4 to turn over. That's annoying and embarrassing and I am trying to remedy it ASAP.
I have a check valve and Purge valve on hand right now. In my research it seems this is where I need to focus. I do have an engine code it was P0456 this time. I also have a gas cap.
I have a check valve because of the all too familiar cutting off early at fuel pump problem. I wanted to start there first since I am sure something needs repairing down by the fuel tank and since the problem is common. And hopefully the valve will work with the fill up and MAYBE with the start, if not that is where the purge valve comes in.
I got as far as get the 2 12mm bolts off and then couldn't make it any further.
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I was driving home from campus yesterday, and as I approached about 50mph, the Celica suddenly revved into higher RPMs, all the while slowing down. I pushed the gas pedal, which only worsened the problem. I was able to limp the car home. About an hour later, I tested the car again, and the problem remains: Accelerate to about 35-50, then get high RPMs while the car slows down and jumps forward.
I suspect a transmission problem, accentuated by a loose wheel bearing that I haven't been able to afford to get fixed yet. My Celica is an automatic, with about 213000 miles on it.
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Ok, I was driving down the interstate in my 2002 Ford Escape XLT 4X4 and I noticed my rpm's reved to about 5000 from my cruising rpm of 2200 and it was as if it went into neutral. I coasted with engine running fine to the right shoulder and called a tow truck to the nearest dealer. No reverse, D, 2 or 1 only Park that worked.
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I've been working on a 04 Buick rendezvous and it has a very loud high pitch squeal when revved past 3000 rpms. Along with a serious power loss when the squeal starts. Has a new power steering pump as of today. And I took the belts off and revved it and the squeal is still there. That rules out the squeal coming from the belts. It is coming from some where in the engine bay and I'm stumped. I was almost positive it was the power steering pump since it sounded like it was about to go. But alas it was not. I does a little squeak when first started but nothing when idling. I've heard of a squeal coming from a clogged cat and it blowing out the egr valve. The squeal is so loud that you can hardly stand near the car.
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The RPMs while driving does up and down. You can feel the engine doing this. You can watch the Tac go up and down. Whats the problem. We just brought a TP sensor but I say its a vacuum leak.
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When I married my wife two Fridays ago I also married in to her 2006 GLS Elantra.
It has pretty bad ticking which varies with RPMS, and how warm the car is, but is always there at lower RPMS. This has gotten worse the past for weeks, but that may be because she is longer into an oil change, and the filter isn't a great filter.
I am trying to do some research, but the search function appears to bring up items from all the different forums on the site.
Does this engine have solid lifter or hydraulic lifters? I am going to try a few oil changes with some seafoam and a quality filter first.
If that doesn't work how involved is it to replace the valve adjusters, or remove and clean?
I need to keep this car alive for a while, it is in overall great condition, 130k miles, everything works, doesn't smoke, doesn't leak oil, transmission is solid.
All that is wrong is the noisy valve train!
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Can't run a/c rpms drop to almost 200 from 1200-1500rpms. Really bad when at at traffic light. I have to constantly press gas pedal.
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I have a 05 Hyundai Elantra 2.0L engine(Manual) thats been acting funny. There's a couple issues im having with it.
1. Not matter how far the gas pedal pushed down RPMs wont go over 2,500
2. Car surges and jumps back and fourth sometimes.
3. Idles around 900rpm
4. Sometimes when I take off I'm able to get around 40 mph, and thats where it tops out at.
5. Shifting into 1st gear feels a little spongy
6. Also it can go all the way into 4th gear without dying and the top speed will only be at 10mph
Things I've done so far.
1. Compression test cylinders all came back fine
2. Replaced TPS
3. Checked to make sure exhaust wasn't obstructed
4. I got a stethoscope and listened for the ticking for the fuel injectors and also got some fuel injector cleaner.
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2001 hyundai elantra. Car is almost stalling randomly at stop lights. Low rpms under 500 and stops. Sometimes drops to 100 rpms then shoots up to 500 right before it might stall. Engine light came up got misfire on cylinder 2 and 4 with codes p0440 and u0d00.
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I was driving my elantra today, and hit a big pothole. Since then, sometimes when I'm driving in fourth gear (I think), I'll feel a thud, and the rpms will go up a little. Then, when I try to accelerate after a stop, the car won't accelerate normally, like it's still stuck in fourth gear. 2005 Elantra ...
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I'm currently moving cross-country from LA to St. Louis. Had routine maintenance done b4 I left. I've only made it to New Mexico so far b/c my car is losing power after logging 250 mi. RPM's also become erratic. Doesn't completely stall, but won't let me go more than 45mi/h. After a rest break, the problem doesn't re-create.
At my first mechanic stop, the computer checked-out as ok. That mechanic changed the spark plugs and also told me the 2004 has no fuel filter (fuel filter being my suspicion of what was wrong).
Today it lost power again. Jim Bob at a rural garage said maybe the alternator or fuel pump. I have an appt. at Pep Boys tomorrow, as the dealers don't have any avail appts. until Fri.
The contents of my apt. are in the trunk and backseat. Is it worth it to remove them (to get to the fuel pump) at the cost of another hotel day, or should I limp home at 250 mi. a stretch?
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