Hey Guys, Picked up a nice 2002 Elantra with the best service history car fax I have ever seen. Every 3k oil was changed at dealership, all maintenance schedules were followed and I'm just at 100k. I love it! Its so gentle on fuel for me.
Anyways, I noticed whenever I start the car, the AC light is on and I have to turn off.
I am having some brake problems. They started grinding really hard suddenly one night while I was at work (delivery) on the passenger side and having recently replaced my driver's side wheel bearing I thought maybe something was wrong with the other one (seeing as how they have the same number of miles on them) that was causing my brakes to get wonky.
Drove to my Dad's to enlist his expertise. When we got it all taken apart the first thing we noticed was the rim of the rotor was all eaten up. Then we got the pads off and saw they were completely worn all the way down to the metal only on the outer edge, so they are wearing at a diagonal. Same for the back and front pad but the front pad was worse.
We thought the caliper was sticking and causing that since it was hard to move before taking it off, so we replaced and regreased the pins, and put on a new rotor and break pads.
Decided to take the other side apart to see what it was doing. Same story just not all the way through the pad yet but quickly heading that way. However the caliper pins on this side were easy to compress and quick to pop back so things were starting to stink like that wasn't our problem on the other side either.
We had a very tough time getting the caliper, although fully compressed, back on with the new brake pads. It was a struggle to make it work, but we did and then I made my drive back with less than optimal braking power which was probably not a great idea (3 hour drive.)
My dad had a sleepless night that night because nothing added up for him as to why the pads were wearing that way and having so many problems. In the morning he got online on Advanced Auto's website where we bought all our parts and then compared their brake pads to ones on OReiley's website. Well OReiley's offers two different styles of brake pad one which has a tab on the outer edge and one that doesn't. The pads that came on my car when I got it didn't have this tab and the ones Advanced auto sold us which I put on my car the time before I started having all these problems, did have a tab.
We are pretty sure this tab is causing the brake pad to sit in the caliper at an angle because the opening in the caliper is not big enough for the tab to clear it. This is why my pads are wearing at an angle, and only the outer edge of the pad is making contact with the rotor. I really only had like 20% braking power!
I still had the brake pads that came on the car when I got it so I popped those on with the old rotors before I went to work tonight (they still have a ton of pad left and its a long story why I replaced them) it's not ideal but I have WAY better braking now and its a temporary fix until I get this sorted out.
Why Advanced auto sold me these pads that don't work with my car TWICE or what I was supposed to know before going in to buy brake pads? Generally I trust that when I got in there and tell them what my car is and ask for a part they will give me the part that works with my car. And one time being wrong is fine but twice at two different stores?
Last year around christmas i replaced the drivers side front wheel bearing no issues with that side. pass side wheel bearing started to growl changed it out test drove went smooth took the car for a 100 mile drive about 50 miles in and a little in town driving noticed a hum drove back at 55 mph humming the whole way i would turn to the right any amount and its would quiet up like nothing wrong straighten out or turn the wheels left it would hum figured i didn't press the bearing straight jacked it up to tear down shook the pass tire no excessive play went and shook drivers side noticed the 3 bolts that hold the strut to the mounting plate sheared off any thought i know i gotta get that bolted up before i diagnose any further think a free floating strut would sound like a wheel bearing?
View 3 RepliesMy wife has a 2003 elantra. When it is started cold the gas pedal is REALLY sluggish for a couple of seconds but after that it works fine. I thinking it may need a transmission fluid flush but I'm not sure.
View 1 RepliesSo I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
I bought a 2002 elentra and didn't know there was an alarm on it. For some reason was activated well I was in the store yesterday and I can not turn it off or start my car w/o it going off. I have tried unhooking the battery and resetting it as instructed by others but still keeps going off. I do not have a remote for it. How do I disable the alarm so I can drive my car again?
View 1 RepliesI just recently picked up a 2002 Hyundai Elantra. After driving the first time I noticed that the car was stating I was moving faster then I was. I brought it to a shop. and they stated that the car was reading in KPH and not MPH. they also do not know how to change it back.
View 7 RepliesYesterday, my 2002 Elantra started to rev ferociously (I was turning a corner in 1st gear), so I put it in neutral, and the engine calmed down. I shifted back to 1st, then 2nd, and the engine started to rev up again without me stepping on the gas. I pulled over and stopped the car. After 10 minutes, I started the car and put it in neutral. The engine idled normally, then started revving up again - really fast - all by itself! I left the car overnight and this morning, put WD-40 on the accelerator cable and today it drove fine, so far.
View 4 RepliesWhen the A/C is on it puts a good load on the engine. It's fine when it's going down the road when the accelerator is being used but at an idle it bogs the engine, it doesn't cut off but you can feel the load. Isn't there a solenoid or sensor, or something that's suppose to make the accelerator compensate for the load and if so what is it called and where is it located, and how to check it?
View 2 RepliesI was wondering what could be causing my Elantra to hesitate? I have the 2.0 5 speed 4 door sedan. It only hesitates below 1500 rpms in all of the gears. I was curious if plugs and wires could work out pretty good? I know when I changed them out in my old Saturn SL1, that stopped the hesitation.
View 7 RepliesThe stock headlights on my 02' Elantra GLS Automatic were not bright enough, I could barely see anything at night. So in December I put in Silverstar 55w bulbs. In May the passenger side bulb died. I warranty replaced the bulb. The same bulb died again last week. I replaced it again with the same bulbs. Is it possibly my car can only handle 35W bulbs, or wiring issues, or faulty fuse? Not sure whats going on.
View 9 Repliesi have a 2002 santa fe which will not go into 5th and reverse So i have put a new clutch in and new oil ....
View 8 RepliesThis has been happening for awhile now. I will drive somewhere, distance isn't a problem, and then after I'm done, I'll go to start my car, and it won't start. It won't turn over or whatever the term is. The starter tries, but won't bite. Sometimes it will start and I can drive for a bit before it will die about a block or 2 later.
View 7 RepliesWe have 2 Hyundai a 2015 Sonta and a 2002 Elentra I am having problems with the 02 Elentra
I have a 2002 elentra that cranks but will not start it tries to but wouldn't start. It started fine before this and it did start once but ran really rough and only for a few seconds.
Our 02 Elantra GT died and would not restart. When we tried jumping the battery, the car would not even attempt to turn over. What we did get was a noise from this part, which I cannot find labeled in any diagram that I've found, both in my owner manual and online.
02 elantra gt.jpg
Car: Elantra 2002 GT
5 Speed Manual
318000km
Kept all recommended service checks
Just week ago strange occurrence of the following problem started. Car is Idling No Problem, Running in any speed, accelerating no problem. Driving on Highway one day engine started stall (check Engine popup stall) but I didn't push the clutch and its restarted and run and again after while come on and stall and restarted and run and after just running no problem.
Removed Fuel pump, check the tank, nothing visible, I put water remover in the tank refuel to the full tank, car is running. Driving for two days, no problem. Today I drove on the highway and its happened again, after 3-4 stall car is running smoothly again.
I have OBD reader with me, no codes, no stored codes...nothing. No battery failure as the clock and radio didn't reset. Drove around the bumpy street for 30 minutes, nothing as I thought some bad relay.
What I should try next? (HV for spark plugs, fuel pump is running smoothly and has pressure, dirty injection?)
My car (200,000kms - 5spd). Just noticed today that the gauge is not moving at all. Heat comes out of the dash vents no problem. Could it be the thermostat? Or is it the gauge it's self?
View 2 RepliesMy cruise control wouldn't engage this afternoon and once I got home I noticed that the brake lights including the third light are on. Headlight switch is rotated to off position, checked brake fluid and its normal, backed car up and hit pedal thinking something might have been locked up but to no avail.
View 4 RepliesWife's 2002 elantra is leaking at the fuel rail pretty badly. Looks like maybe there should have been a hose clamp on it, i can see the indentations on at the rail on the rubber fitting. So i put a hose clamp on it. stopped leaking....just went out a few hours later to check it again, started it up....started leaking same spot.
We are getting a new car in 3-4 months. All i want to do is replace the line from the rail to...the next closest fitting.
Are there any videos? PIctures? Documents how to do this? I've never replaced a fuel line, doesn't seem like it could be hard. Just don't know how those fittings work. I've been known to turn a few wretches here and there.
I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. The engine light came on intermittent and also the speed performance went down dramatically and It seems that the under the front seats are getting overheated.
View 3 RepliesMy 2002 Elantra GLS seems to have some sort of heat related problem.
I live in Arizona, where temperatures routinely reach well over 100. In the morning my car will start fine, after driving it for some time and parking somewhere, if I try and start the car within a couple hours of driving it, it will crank but not start. Lifting the hood to cool it seems to expedite this to get it started.
I had a mechanic friend of mine hook up his OBD computer at his shop, nothing out of the ordinary. He suspected either a crankshaft or camshaft position sensor. No check engine light, nothing out of the ordinary on his computer check. I removed spark plug wires for cylinders 1 and 4 and I have spark while cranking when it fails to start. My mechanic friend said the spark would rule out a faulty crankshaft position sensor. I have also tried spraying starting fluid into the intake manifold, and it has no effect. The battery has been replaced within the last two months, connectors are new as well.