Elantra XD (2001-06) :: 2001 - Cooling Fan Will Not Come On Even With The AC Turned On
Aug 16, 2013
Here is my problem....the cooling fan will not come on, even with the A/C turned on. The A/C fan works fine. I've changed the fan for a new one and replaced the relay, and checked all the wiring, but nothing has changed. I've read other threads that have kind of the same problem and they mentioned the coolant temperature sensor. I don't have a problem changing it, but don't know where it is located.
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I have a 2001 jetta 1.8 turbo. when I turn the car off the cooling fans stay on and kill my battery. Ive been told it could either be a relay or temp sending unit but i dont know what one to tackle first, also my coolent temp stays way low almost as if the thermostat is stuck open.
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I have a 2003 Hyundai Elantra GLS. This past month, the A/C tends to stop cooling for a period of time. I took it to one shop and they recycled the freon, but the problem continued. I took it to another shop and they also recycled the freon. It is worse when the outside temperature is over 95 degrees. Additionally, the second shop hooked it up to a computer and said the computer is telling them that the car is getting hot and shutting down the compressor, but the air conditioning system is fine. The car is not overheating. They proposed changing the thermostat for a huge price so I declined.
I've read online that it is possible that this could be caused by a thermister or a low pressure sensor and am considering taking the car to an auto electric shop for diagnosis. What else this could be? The radiator was replace a few months ago.
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01 Elantra, once warmed up to running temp starts to run like a pig & wont idle, has new plugs/leads.
Funny thing is there is no engine check light, in fact it doesn't even come on for the 6 seconds when the ignition is first turned on at all.
Secondly I have OBD2/ELM327 with scanpro but it doesn't connect to the ECU.
We put it into a shop & they claim they were able to connect to ecu but gave no codes which I find a bit strange.
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I have a 2003 Elantra that is squealing when turned on, it also does it when steering especially when turning right though much less when the car is moving.
You can check the video out to see what I'm talking about. The car had already been driven when I filmed this so no squeal when I first turn it on.
The power steering belt seem very tight, no wobbling, the alternator belt has more give but I can't tell whether it's too loose or not. The power steering fluid is dark, I don't know if that's normal or not and the reservoir has lots of dark-ish residue all over it. I'll have to look tomorrow during day light to see whether a hose may be leaking
Video is on youtube: [URL] ....
Just wondering what kind of fix the car needs, it's a clunker we drive on short distances but it's starting to squeal a lot , and the other day when one of us drove it it started to smell like burnt rubber, and there was even a bit of smoke coming out of the front hood, we haven't been able to replicate that so far. The oil is good, the oil cap is clean no gas smells.
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I have a 2004 Elantra GT, and for the past year it sometimes makes no attempt to start when the ignition key is turned. All the dashboard lights, radio, bells and whistles are fine, but once the key is turned to start nothing happens. There are no clicks or anything. Some dashboard lights stay on and I can hear the initial whirring under the hood from the electrical system.
I've replaced the battery, ignition wires, and plugs. This will happen very erratically. Then all of a sudden it will fire up like nothing was wrong. This is always over a several minute time span of trying and retrying to start. I took it to a mechanic but we can never replicate the problem while there.
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I'll provide as much info as possible concerning an all too common problem with these cars. The radiator (passenger side) fan will run for a few seconds when the AC is turned on, then it will shut off. It does not come on when the car is up to temperature. The AC condenser (driver's side) fan runs normally. Steps I have taken so far are as follows:
A. Replaced the radiator fan -- no joy.
B. Replaced the coolant temperature sensor -- no joy.
C. Replaced the thermostat -- no joy.
Coolant level is normal and there are no leaks in the system. The temperature gauge however, never rises above cold.
My questions are:
1. What are the next step(s) to solving the radiator fan problem?
2. Is there a separate sensor for the temp gauge, other than the one in the thermostat housing and if so, where is it located?
3. Since I live in AZ where it never gets very cold, I'd be perfectly fine with having the radiator fan run whenever the engine is running. Is there a way to wire it so it's always on with the ignition?
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I have an 02 Elantra GT. I was dropping off a friend who knows cars and went to turn around, turned the wheel to full lock to make the turn and heard a squeal. I asked my friend what it was and he said it was the P/S and I just needed to add some P/S fluid. I got some fluid and sure enough when I went to fill up the reservoir it was below to MIN line, not too much below but still below it. I filled up the fluid and didn't hear the problem for the rest of the day but this morning I heard the same noise when I was leaving for work. I figured the fluid had to work its way though but am not sure if there is something else I should check or do.
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While on my 20 mile commute my check engine light turned on, attached the code reader to the car and got codes P0422 and U0D00. Looked up the P0422 code to find "Caralyst efficiency below normal (bank 1)" I have a list of possible fixes but have no luck finding out about the U0D00 code. I notice I lose and a quart of oil every month and when I start the car, the first 5 seconds or so the engine revs to 4000 rpm.
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2003 camry 2.4 ... This is what is happening, cooling fans will not come on except when the AC is turned on and they will stop working when the AC is turned off, otherwise the car will over heat.
This is what I have done...Replaced the fans (because the radiator fan was bad, after hooking them up directly to the battery). I checked all the grounds, including the one under the intake, checked the fuses, checked relays using 12vots to the relay and used a ohm meter to see if it made contact when activated, on the three fan relays. Replaced and tested the new radiator sensor using a pot of water on the cooking stove with a cooking temperature gauge and ohm meter. It tested ok.
Unplug the radiator sensor while the car is running, the fans will come on, but go off as soon as it is plug back in, even when the motor is over heating. Also replaced the thermostat.
What can I do next, before I burn the motor up trying to fix it? Motor just started running rough. Just now pulled up a code of the number three cylinder miss firing
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03 Santa Fe, 2.7 L engine. No cooling happening. Compressor not running. Jumpered both sides of the triple pressure switch. Jumpering Low/high side resulted in slight increase in engine rpm, Jumpering medium side and something turned on (didn't get a chance to investigate) but still no clutch operation on compressor. Wondering what to try next other than disconnecting and dropping compressor ?? Checked AC relay on the bench and the coil operates and contacts close, so that's good. Also10A fuse before relay contacts is OK.
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I have a 2001 Nissan Altima. I seem to be having a fan problem. I started noticing that about 2 seconds after I turned the car off, the fans would come back on and run for ~25-30 seconds. I brought it in and my mechanic was thinking maybe a defective thermostat, so we replaced that. It still keeps happening, but now I've realized that the fans come back on anytime the car is turned off when the fans are running. If the fans are not running, they won't come back on. I've been trying to pay more attention to what is going on and when I first turn on the car, no fans are on (at least not the high fan, not sure if there are more than 1) After driving around town, the fans will turn on.
Normally, I believe the fan should then turn off once the coolant temp gets below a certain level. I let the car sit idling in the driveway for 15 min and the fans never turned off. I took it back to mechanic and repeated the idling for 15 min, fans never turned off. He checked the coolant temp with some sort of sensor and the temps were reading between 166-170 depending on where he aimed his device, so he said the fans should be turning off and it doesn't seem like the car is overheating.If he unplugged the temperature sensor, the gauge would go all the way to cold, but nothing changed for the fans, so he didn't think that was the problem.He took the fan relays along the edge of the car and swapped them around and nothing changed, so didn't think it was a relay problem. He removed some sensor on the passenger side on the back part of the engine and the fans got really loud and really fast. When he replace that, the fans would go back to normal until the engine temp got hot enough to turn them on and then they wouldn't go off again. He's thinking that sensor might be the problem, but isn't 100% sure. I think he said this was the cooling fan sensor or switch.
On a side note that may or may not be related. About 5 years ago the water pump broke. It started having the fans on all the time (even from a cold start), that turned out to be a faulty knock sensor. There was a knock sensor code and he replaced the knock sensor and then the fans went back to normal cycling. I didn't have any problems until early last fall, when I started noticing my current problems. I didn't worry about it until now, because as it got colder outside, it wasn't an issue. So outside temperature definitely effects it.
There are no codes this time.
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I've decided the first issue w/ my new-to-me jetta I want to focus on is the cooling fan constantly running. I suspect this is potentially related to the temp gauge not reading anything, which I suspect might be because of the coolant temp sensor.
So basically, when I turn the key to on (I'm pretty sure it's on, not start), one of the cooling can comes on. It's the fan on the right side as if you are sitting in the driver seat. I've been looking at the wiring diagram for this issue as well, and the only other thing I can think of that isn't a computer involving issue would be the thermo switch. But it seems like both fans should be coming on in that case, and it's definitely only the one fan that is coming on.
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I am having issues with our 2001 vw jetta wolfsburg edition with a AWW engine the cooling fans not working properly. I had a bad fan and replaced it and since changed the thermo fan switch and the module under the battery and still no luck. With the key off I can jump the fans via the plug for the fan switch only low speed works with the key off. with the key on i can get both speeds of the fan to operate. With the ac on the fans operate.. normal driving the fans will not operate. and the engine will overheat and fans will not go on. Any other relays or sensors that could be faulty?
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Drove my son's '01 Santa Fe and the AC is not cooling. The compressor seems to be working but there is a clicking sound coming from under the dash on the passengers side. The clicking is louder when you turn up the speed of the fan. The coolant does not need to be charged.
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My 2001 alero 3400 engine is getting hot again this alero is running with a 2001 impala engine run great for few months, replace radiator, hoses, thermostat and suddenly coolant start leaking in the overflow, fans not working even with ac on, i replace the etc sensor and did not work, the fans turn on when I disconnect the etc sensor so i think the fan motors are ok. I got one pcm module from the salvage yard in case I need to replace it but I read that only the dealer can reprogram the computer system because vin number issues....
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2001 Chevy Venture: Pins to 2nd fan in 4 pin connector burned and melting to connector. Fan seemed to work when wiggling connector. Bypassed connector and now does not work unless A/C is turned on Full Speed. Is connector important? What controls fans? Computer controlled? Seems to be larger gauge wire in one side than the other.
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I have a problem I can't seem to figure out. My car has a misfire at idle. It has stumbled every once in a while at idle before while at Red lights. Now it does it all the time. Check engine light is on and I got 5 codes. P0300, p0301, p0302, p0303, p0340, and p0012. The last two are for cam position sensor. I took it outo and looked at it. Looks fine. I reinstalled it and hand cranked the motor with a meter hooked up and I am reading about 10 volts when it senses the metal ring going around. So I think that is good. I sprayed brake cleaner on all the hoses to see if the motor reved to hopefully find a vacuum leak. Nothing. I also noticed today that my cooling fans or my ac don't work. Now I have another issue to deal with. I checked all my plugs and wiring and coils also.
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Have a 2001 Subaru Legacy GT, 5 speed manual, 194,000 miles.
A few months ago, I started noticing that my cooling fans are running more often. Even when it is cold out and the temperature gauge was at normal temperature. The fans would turn on, and just keep running. Obviously, they would turn off when I shut the car off, but if the car is on, they will stay on. However, I found a trick to get them to turn off. If I am in neutral, and I race the engine up to around 3000 RPM's or so for about 10 seconds, and let it come back down to idle speed, the fans are now off. Works almost every time, not just a coincidence.
I know my car, and this has never done this before. I know it is not normal. I have replaced the following- thermostat, coolant temperature sensor, flushed the system, changed the fan relays, and most recently, I put a brand new Subaru radiator in. All of this, and the issue is still there. I am beginning to wonder if it is the water pump. Coolant not circulating fast enough, so the fans come on to cool down, but when I race the engine, the water pump works harder circulating coolant faster? Also recently, the temp gauge starts to climb going up long steep grades. If I pull over and race the engine, the temp gauge drops almost immediately back to normal. The pump is not leaking or making any noise, so I'm not sure if it could go bad any other way.
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I have a 2001 Toyota Prius. The inverter cooling pump was dead and I had the P3130 fault code. I replaced the pump and the refilled the fluid. After more than 4 or 5 times bleeding the system, now the pump sounds funny. It sounds like a water fall and look like it has too much air!!!! I can’t see any turbulence in the reservoir tank either.
There are 2 bleeding valves on the front side of the Inverter. Which one should be used to for bleeding the system? Both?
Does the system have any thermostat that could cause problem? Does it use the same radiator as the main one? What could cause having NO turbulence? I think the new pump will be dead too if it can’t make the turbulence.
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My 2004 Santa Fe has something failing, but I need to know which direction to go. When the defroster or air conditioner is turned on the idol fades momentarily and my headlights dim. This does not happen when the heater, alone, is on.
This is my 2nd Santa Fe; I have my 2003 in my barn. The transmission gave out at 204K miles and this one was in my neighborhood so I just swapped. So, I have lots of parts.
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