I got the HID kit from DDM tuning and suffer from issues with them working fine while the car is off but flickering and turning off when I start my car. I just got the error code eliminators to see if it eliminates the problem. The ECE's need to be plugged in correctly or else they can "pop" and be useless. How to tell the polarity of the wiring harness for the headlights?
View 6 RepliesI posted a couple of weeks ago about my car making a single click instead of starting while turning the key. The dealer finally got the car in the other day and initially called to tell me that the positive cable was loose on the battery. Then called back a while later to say after trying the start the car after it was sitting for a while it again made the single click and didn't start. I never bought the battery cable story since I knew it couldn't be that loose, I checked. But instead they found the starter itself was the issue. I was thinking it may be a loose cable on the starter itself and was surprised to see the starter had burned out already. A new starter was ordered and will be installed on Tuesday. I am not sure who makes the starters for these cars but a 2012 starter should last years. In comparison, my 96 honda civic is still sporting the original starter after 17 years and a couple hundred thousand miles.
View 29 RepliesSo I swapped out my OEM battery for one straight from Hyundai and during the first night time drive, I immediately noticed a very severe flicker with the lights (headlights, interior and trunk) when idling that was definitely not there with the original battery. I have already done the ground strap mod so I went back and re-cleaned the grounding points and even filed down the grounding post on the new battery itself but the problem remains.
I'm thinking I either got the wrong battery or a bum one and the alternator is only a year or so old.
I got my 6k HIDS installed yesterday but for some reason they start flickering every time I hit a bump but they stop flickering once the car is stable or just idling on a light. I think the lights flicker because the ballasts are screwed to one of the existing screws on the car and they kind of dangle and nothing else makes it stable which makes my lights flicker. Question is, where did everyone install their ballast or the best place to put them so they wont vibrate?
View 7 RepliesI bought an hid kit for my 2013 elantra a month ago... When I installed them with the relay, I have flickering issues and the relay makes a buzzing noise... How can i fix this???
View 4 RepliesI have a 2010 Toyota Camry Le that has been giving me some problems lately . The problem I am having is sometimes when I try to start my car it just seems to keep turning over and over but will not fire. It does it randomly. Some days it will start with no problem n then the next it does not want to start.
View 11 RepliesIn my manual on page 5-25, it says:
A click sound may be heard in the engine compartment when the vehicle begins to move after the engine is started. These conditions are normal and
indicate that the anti-lock brake system is functioning properly.
Every time I first hit 20 mph after starting my car, I hear what sounds like an aluminum pop/soda can getting crushed. It does not sound like a 'click', it's much more harsh.
So in the past my car has sputtered when starting, but always did fire up. The other morning it started and died and wouldn't run. It turned over, voltage was good, but just cranked and cranked. I let it sit a couple of minutes and tapped the pedal and eventually it reluctantly started. I have 114K now so I'm out of warranty. It has run fine the last couple of days.
View 11 RepliesI've been having a problem over the past month with my base 2014 Elantra (33k miles). Sometimes when I go to start the car there is a complete loss of electrical power. One of a couple of scenarios will occur:
1) Key Fob will not unlock/lock doors:
*There is no power to anything (no dash lights, interior lights, car won't crank).
2) Key Fob will unlock/lock doors:
* Either all interior lights will be on and when I attempt to crank everything shuts off (no dash lights, interior lights, etc)
* Or Clock and radio are reset, car starts fine
* The battery checks out as far as voltage/charge.
* There are no visible fuse issues.
* There are no check engine lights.
I have had it in the dealer the past 4 days and they haven't been able to reproduce the issue. So far I have been able to eventually get it to start by opening and shutting doors, which would lead me to believe it is a loose connection somewhere, but again the dealer hasn't been able to diagnose anything.
I just purchased my new Elantra 2 weeks ago. A few days later, just after I started it first thing in the morning, it began making a loud flapping noise (seemed to be coming from under the hood). It's been doing it every morning since. The dealership said they couldn't hear anything unusual (after keeping it overnight, then starting it up first thing the next morning).
View 1 RepliesI've only had the car a month, and it's happened maybe three times now. I turn the key, and it takes twice as long as usual to start, about 5 full seconds of the engine cranking before it ignites. I think each time was after I had driven the car an hour or two before (when I'm heading home after an outing). Most of the time, the car starts fine. What's going on?
View 11 RepliesSo I bought my car less than a month ago and it has less than 900 miles. The LED in my left front headlight shorted out all the lights on the left side of the car and fried the cabin fuse box apparently. I took it to Hyundai Monday and they had it until today (Friday).
They replaced the cabin fuse box and the whole headlight assembly. They hand me the key FOB and say here you go all set. I get into the car and go to reverse out of the spot and the camera doesn't even try to come on. Its not switching to a blank screen.. just stays on the radio.
The tech at Hyundai didn't have a clue how to fix it and I'm not leaving my car there over the weekend.
Having issue with their rear view camera not even turning on? I see a lot about blue screens, snowy pictures, ect. but that's not what I'm experiencing. I've hit the reset button on the head unit but that isn't working. Is there a way to do a hard reset on everything?
I have the limited with the push start. In order to start the car, you have to push the brake in so far and then push the push button. Lately the brake pedal is really hard to push down after its been sitting for an extended period. Once its started, all is fine. Its almost like I've pumped it a few times first, but its not the case.
View 11 RepliesI have 1,600 miles on my elantra and this sound just started. On initial starting, when the engine is cold, there's this loud low pitch then high pitch sound. It only lasts for 1.5 seconds but it's loud. What could it be?
View 3 RepliesAbout 95% of the time our 2012 Elantra runs great. But then 5% of the time, it hits us with this intermittent starting problem. It will crank but just won't turn over. It really feels like it's just not getting any fuel. This has happened intermittently for the past 2 years. Every time we take it in, the dealer can't replicate the problem. It starts right up for them. The car will behave well for a while but then inevitably, it acts up again - usually at 6:30am when we need to get to the hospital for work.
Here's a video of it in the act : [URL] .....
It's not the shift interlock - it wouldn't even crank if it were that.
My click sound is inconsistent, but typically, it's when I make a hard right or left turn. This being said, there are times I've was making a slow turn and my car still made the click noise. The turn can be a small one while in the lane for the off ramp of the freeway or a sharper turn around the corner. My impression is that when there is more force towards one side of the car, my steering wheel shaft is clicking. I also notice there's a click sound when I turn into a dip like when I drive out of a driveway onto a street that's lower than the driveway. The sound is also typically paired with moderate braking and turning. Someone who was in the car and heard the click and mentioned that it might happen when I make a sudden turn.
The single click is coming from the exterior of my car (I can hear it clearly when my windows are down) and around the engine area. I don't physically feel anything when I hear the click but I'm afraid that something may become an issue in the future. The click is also slowly driving me insane!!!
I've already gone back to my dealership and I bought this car brand new. It started happening almost immediately after I bought the car. When I took it in, they said they tightened a bolt (didn't specify which).
I've asked so many individuals and they can't think of anything. It's definitely not a CV issue because the car is brand new and the sound is a single click rather than a continuous knocking.
My engine keeps knocking for a minute or so after I come to a stop and turn off ignition. Should I be concerned?
View 14 RepliesWhen turning a corner the back end of the car hopes over. 2012 Elantra, 6000 km.
View 21 RepliesMy Elantra has about 5,500 miles on it now. I went on a road trip up to Washington D.C. during spring break about two weeks ago.
Anyway, it has been making a squeaking noise when I turn right at around 15-20 mph. It makes a sound similar to a swing when its swinging. It's slightly high pitched and sounds like it's metal on metal. It's getting kind of annoying and I think I might take it in to have it checked out.
I have a 2012 hyundai elantra gls 6speed manual. Every time I apply the brake and turn the car makes a ticking noise that appears to come from the front. It happens when I turn either way. I just had the car inspected, but forgot to mention the noise, and they didn't say anything was wrong with the brakes. It only happens with the brake applied. When I let off the brake the noise stops.
View 3 RepliesI'm having my 3rd problem with my "certified pre-owned" car since I bought it last year. It is a 2011 PZEV (according to the dealership it is PZEV but I don't see any indication of that anywhere?) with about 64k on it. It had 44k when I bought it last year.
Within the first couple of months that I bought it, I was driving on the highway and all the needles on my dashboard stopped working. I got really scared and pulled over. A lot of emergency lights came on as well. Within a few minutes, they came back on. I took it to a dealership about 4 hours from where I bought it as I was out of town and they couldn't find anything wrong with it.
Since then, I've had it happen about 3-4 times. It happened last night while I had a car full of people. I pulled off of the highway again and went into a parking lot. My gear wouldn't shift out of Drive or Neutral. I put it in neutral and put the E brake on. I was in a parking spot in front of a curb so I couldn't drive forward. I've read about this problem on the forum a bit, but I haven't seen it combined with the dashboard issue. Some of the E lights that came on: check engine, brakes, eps, the one that looks like a windy road.
After about twenty minutes of wondering what to do, turning the car on and off, and trying to get the shift release to work, the dashboard finally started working (the needles for the speed and RPM) and I was able to get the car going.
The car is at a Hyundai repair shop now and they called me a couple hours ago asking for more details as they can't replicate the problem.