Elantra MD (2010-15) :: When Accelerate While In Drive From A Stop Car Doesn't Seem To Shift Up
Jul 30, 2012
I started to realize something very weird in my car. While in drive from a stop I would accelerate and the car doesn't seem to shift up when its suppose too. I know that my car shifts around 2.1k RPM smoothly into second gear but now it would go all the way up to 3K RPM and slams into second gear which is really weird. Sometimes it does this problem and sometimes it doesn't. I would say 70% it would slam into gear. Not only does it slam but it would seem like this car does not want to shift at the proper rpm even when i foot is on the gas pedal very lightly.
Once I got home I tried some stop and goes and see if the problem persist. It still did. Then I tried doing shiftronic and from first gear once the line touches 2k RPM i shift up and yet it would still lag and the needle would go up to 3K RPM once again. This seems like a very bad problem especially MPG wise. I am still under warranty, I think because I've only swap the air filter with a drop in K&N and just plasti dipped my wheels and such.
View 28 Replies
Advertisement
I own a Elantra 2011 and I have a major problem. I cannot shift from PARK to DRIVE and my electric windows doesn't work either ! Everything else working fine and the car start normally !! The dealer cannot find the trouble and the car just have 19802 KM on it!!
View 3 Replies
I recently bought my '05 Elantra from a small dealership and I'm starting to see a problem with it. If I shift into reverse and then go back into drive, the car doesn't go forward at all. I have to mess with the gear shift a bit to get the car moving. I'm pretty sure it's a bad linkage. The dealership I bought it from said it desperately needed motor mounts when they got it so they replaced 2 of them. I'm sure the problems are related. I can't find any information on replacing it myself though.
View 1 Replies
My wife called today after arriving at work letting me know she was having trouble shifting the car from D(drive) to P(park). I know the Gear box is set up in a stepped configuration. Sometimes its smooth shifting up to park and other times its not.
2011 Elantra Gls
Silver w/tinted windows
View 3 Replies
I don't know if this is related, but my car has not shifted as well as it did before I gave it my oil change. The car only has 3K miles, new Hyundai oil filter, and Mobil 1 Synthetic 5w-20.
It's not a major dip in performance, but enough for me to know its different. One example is when I come to a stop, the car seems to surge forward a little bit. Another is that is shifts hard from time to time when I give it gas.
Going uphill, it just doesn't have the power like it did. Also, it feels that it's not in the right gear..like 5th or 6th gear. It's hard to describe the symptoms. The weird part is that the MPG is the higher than normal.
View 1 Replies
For a few months now I have been hearing a tap clunk type noise coming from under the car when I shift the auto trans into drive and reverse. Also sometimes when the car is slowing when driving I hear the tap sound as it shifts into first. I drove in by my local dealer and they listened to it and said Elantra transmissions can get noisy there is nothing wrong. They told me I have plenty of Warranty left so if something happens I will be covered.
View 2 Replies
Ok so my transmission feels loose, too much play between the coast and drive side of the gears. Makes enough noise now that my wife complained about it so I'm looking into taking it to the dealer. I pretty much expect them to pass this off and do nothing, but its getting worse especially in the last couple of months.
Noticed a lot of play in there gearbox? Can you hear the gears make noise as they shift from coast to drive side?
View 13 Replies
I've been having problems with my '02 Elantra. It shudders and doesn't accelerate well (or at all) going up hill, or attempting to accelerate quickly (like passing a car on the interstate). If I try to push it through these situations it will run worse, engine light flashes, and sometimes will stall. In the past, when it stalled, it would start up again in about 30mins or so.
Codes it has thrown were P0304, P0303, and P0420.
When I took it to mechanic, he really couldn't figure it out. He ended up testing and replacing fuel pump motor in November. Got it back and within a few days it was throwing same codes and having same symptoms.
Everything else from this point as been DIY. I bought a manual, researched these forums, learned as I went, and did the following myself:
I changed the spark plugs and wires. Still ran as described above but at this point when the engine light comes on, I am only down to the P0304 code right now.
Thought perhaps it was a vacuum leak. I have very few tools, and Autozone said I could use seafoam as a means to tell if I had a leak if smoke came out of vacuum lines as I put it in. I tried this, none came out of vacuum lines that I could tell. I drove it after seafoam, some white smoke came out tail pipe from solution but dissipated after driving a little while, and then I had the shuddering issues and loss of power while driving the interstate. It literally would act like I wasn't pressing the gas peddle, then suddenly surge as if it realized I was... engine continued to run until I pulled over and then it stalled. Normally it would start right back up after 30mins or so. But this time it didn't, I had to tow it home.
With a crap load of starter fluid and jamming the gas pedal, I finally got it to start. It ran horribly at idle, had a weird knock. So I didn't drive it and did the following instead.
I replaced the coil pack.
Replaced crank position sensor.
I confirmed that I have spark on all 4 cylinders.
There are no obvious oil leaks (nothing on garage floor and I don't see any obvious signs of wet oil on engine or smoke when it runs)
Temperature is fine, coolant level is normal & hasn't needed refill or topping off.
I pulled the fuel pump again, noticed that the fuel sock had holes and was full of muddy/pasty type crap. Gas was dark, cloudy in spots, and appeared to separate in some areas.
Replaced fuel sock.
Syphoned gas.
Thoroughly cleaned out gas tank.
Put premium gas in.
Manually cleaned fuel injectors.
Reassembled and it started right up, runs strong, no more weird knock, but the other symptoms start to reappear... the shuddering, loss of power, and stalling. Its intermittent... sometimes when I jam on the gas peddle, sometimes when I'm cruising at low speeds. I can force it to stall by jamming on the gas peddle to the floor, acts like it's choking, engine light flashes, lose power, then it stalls. Pretty much every time I push it like that.
I can continue to limp it to Autozone for codes, but the engine light currently isn't on.... and it usually takes it a hard drive pushing it through the symptoms for the light to appear, and it's always been the P0304 code at this point.
Is there anything else I can do from home with no special testing equipment?
Is there a part or sensor that would cause these symptoms and NOT throw a code other than the misfire?
View 12 Replies
About once a week our 2011 Prius will start, but the "Ready" indicator does not come on and the car cannot be shifted into drive. Once this happens it takes several attempts, turning the car on/off, until it finally comes on "Ready." I cannot create the problem, but it may stem from pushing the start button before the brake is fully depressed.
Last night it took more than 5 minutes to get it going. I "reset" the car by exiting, locking, and re entering the car. Then it worked, that procedure caused it to work.
View 6 Replies
Have an 02 Auto with the 2.7, 4wheel drive, and it doesn't shift into 5th gear. Can go through the 4 gears with the manual shift, but when just in drive, only shifts up to 4th. At 65mph, RPM's over 2500.
View 3 Replies
I have an 01 Elantra Gls with perplexing issues. The car starts at 3000 rpms, and continues to bounce between 2k and 3.5k in both park and neutral. when I put it in reverse i get a very hard shift. It actually jerks the whole car. in drive and reverse, it idles around 1.5k it hesitates quite a bit to accelerate. All fluid levels are right and don't smell burnt. it takes me 10 mins to put 4 gallons of gas in. if i pump too fast it shoots back at me. i randomly smell gas while driving. Im hoping these problems are a couple of issue I can handle at home. i just wanted some input before i buy the manual. thinking vacuum lines maf sensor.
View 7 Replies
So my girlfriend has an 04 elantra 2.0... the car will be running fine but then after so long of driving(maybe 15, 20mins) itll start acting strange..
It will hesitate to accelerate and shift hard and at higher rpms. Then at cruising speed it will turn off instantly(no sputter, hesitation, almost as if you just turned the key off). Seconds later the engine will come back but the gauges die and the engine will remain on.
At that point i pulled over and as i was on the brakes the car died when I came to a complete stop. Once the car completely turned off it would not start back up. However jump starting it got it going. The car is not throwing any codes.
View 1 Replies
I recently purchased a 2005 Elantra Automatic, my question is, when shifting it out of park, the shifter doesn't stop at "D" but at "3" is there an adjustment or is it just a quirk of the car?
View 2 Replies
I almost always use my cruise control. When I turn off my car then restart under 2 minutes, the cruise control doesn't work UNTIL I stop completely.
When I turn off my car over 2 minutes then restart, cruise control works fine.
Is something not resetting right or something? It doesn't bother me.. I just have to restart my car after 2 minutes so my cruise control works.
View 10 Replies
I'm having with my 2008 Elantra. In short, the car stalls when I'm at a stop, and then for a period of time, I cannot get the car in park or turn it off. When I am eventually able to get it to do so, I turn it back on, and it restarts like nothing ever happened. The full details are below. The dealership is clueless, and I am so upset/frustrated.
Three weeks ago, I was slowed down at a yield sign, and when I tried to inch forward, my car stalled. The radio, AC, etc. were all still on, but I could not move forward. I noticed the EPS light on on my dash. I also could not turn the wheel or shift the car into park (could only get it into neutral), and therefore, could not turn off the car/get the key out.
After cops pushed me into a parking lot, the car sat for a bit (still technically "on"). Eventually, a friend got in and forced the wheel to move a bit in each direction, and was able to put the car in park and turn it off. When we turned it back on, the engine started and everything appeared fine. I canceled the tow and drove it home.
I took the car to where I bought it and was told there was a technical service bulletin related to the powertrain control module, and they recommended I take it to the dealership to be fixed. The first Hyundai dealership I took it to said they addressed the TSB, and also recommended I clean out the fuel line as that may have been affecting it ($150). Because it had been awhile since I'd done anything like that and the work was relatively in expensive, I said sure, got my car back and went back to my life...
Fast forward to this week. I'm driving in rush hour traffic, and the SAME THING happens again. I immediately tried to move the wheel around to get the car in park and restart, to no avail. I called a tow. After some time passed, the same thing happened again -- we were able to get the car in park, turned it off, turned it back on and it seemed normal again.
I had the car towed to another Hyundai dealership, explained the situation and they tested and drove it around a bit over two days, but because they are unable to recreate the issue and no codes appear, they can't do anything for me.
View 1 Replies
I find if i jump in the car and turn the key quickly to start it sputters but doesn't turn over. When i try again a second time its always ok.
Happens a lot after i fill my tank, seems to never give issues if i turn the key to the on position and give it a couple seconds till i start it.
I have an injen cold air intake, and magnaflow muffler don't know if those would contribute to the problem? Should i take it to hyundai and let them take a look.
I also notice when i start my car the rpm jumps to 2000 and then drops down, i run synthetic oil and Hyundai filters.
View 1 Replies
I need to solve tranny problem, it started out a while back, would not shift back into drive after stopping at stop sign (after driving fine for about 20 miles) thought maybe dirty filter so did fluid and filter change seemed to work for a while then started again noticed it was mostly after using cruise control, but u joints were very bad, so replaced 2 of the 3 and worked fine for about a thousand highway miles, then got really bad. Now when I check the tranny fluid cold and /or hot it is way up on the dipstick. Took to ford dealer in ladoga, lied and said no speed sensor codes, but list on the paper he gave me had all kinds of abs and a p500 code.
View 9 Replies
Mine hisses when accelerating, and there's no leaks.
View 25 Replies
2010 Prius. There may be times when you attempt to accelerate from a stop on snow or ice where the throttle will not respond. The reason for this is that our hybrid vehicles have 100% of the electric engine's torque available at 0-1,500 RPM unlike our gas-only vehicles, where maximum torque is available around 4,000 rpm. If the Traction Control System detects wheel spin it will inhibit the throttle because if the tires were to spin and then suddenly gain traction, the torque would be so great that damage could occur to the transaxle.
View 19 Replies
it seems that when you get in the car and drive away, the doors don't lock themselves automatically, which is a big surprise to me since my previous 2003 focus had this feature.
View 7 Replies
I have a 2010 Elantra and I have been having problems accelerating in the last couple of months. Took it to a mechanic and they said it's definitely my transmission. I am at 51,118 miles and so I am still under warranty. The Hyundai dealership said the transmission needs to be completely replaced. How does this happen to a car that isn't that old and doesn't have many miles on it? A factory defect?
The dealership, being a dealership tried to get me to do a bunch of other stuff to my car and I wanted to ask all of you about one of them. They said my battery is going to die soon. I guess it's at 236 (amps?) and should be at 550 (according to the dealership, that's where it should be). Is that right? I don't know enough about cars to know whether this is right and don't tend to trust dealerships.
View 11 Replies
