When I look under the hood of the Elantra and then try to close it, it seems to not want to close. I usually have to lift the hood up and let it fall which kind of worries me will break something...
or I have to put what seems to be a lot of pressure on the hood with my arms and hands to close it...to the point where I feel the metal of the hood bend slightly inwards and then pop out to its regular shape.
I have 2013 elentra just about a year old, (Took delivery june/2012). Recently some thing happen on the Shift lever, can't shift to "R" for back in parking, Shift to "N" is OK.
Some time it can't shift out from PARK to "R" or "N" or "D" ... Under any of this situation,car engine would not start.
Sound like the SHIFT LOCK did not release properly, or the Brake paddle position switch input did not send to Computer for engine Start.
I would like to add the alarm /horn to the lights when I open or Close the car. It is possible?
Elantra 2013
I got a small rust spot on a corner of the hood of my car (5 months old). The 3 year/36,000 mile paint warranty included with the purchase of the Elantra should take care of this, correct? It's small so I was gonna sand it down myself and use a touch-up pen, but now having second thoughts. Should I take it to the dealership instead?
View 16 RepliesWent to pull on the hood latch lever and nothing happened. It almost appears that the cable/ball has either popped or broken off the latch. While pulling on the lever you can hear a sliding noise at the latch.
I removed the bottom panel under the bumper but no support there as the latch is covered and not accessed from that location. There is a slight gap from the front under the hood and above the logo but how to get around to this.
How to at least open the hood from the outside. Remember, the cable won't release.
I'm wiring up some COB LED strips like dowdogg did, mounted them in the same location in the lower grill (although I put mine at the top slot, not the bottom).
I've got them mounted and wired up and grounded. I went to grab my Fluke and find an ignition wire (I want them to be on all the time, as long as the ignition is on), and my 9v battery is dead for my Fluke. I don't feel comfortable using a test light on a newer car (stories of fried ECU, BCM and deployed air bags, etc) - so I figured I would ask here.
I'm really looking for a wire in the fuse box, coming off of the junction plug (ECS or BCM, I forget). I fused the power to the lights, so that isn't much of an issue.
There is a small clunk in the front end and I think it could be the hood. When I press on it with my hand I get a small clunk. I have had the dealership look at it and they are not sure of any way to adjust it. Most cars have rubber topped screws to adjust the hood for a tight fit, but the elantra does not have it.
View 14 RepliesJust got my MK4 R32, I'm trying to shut the hood and it just won't close all the way. The hood isn't getting as close to the VW sign as it's supposed to. Is there something i'm missing? What position does the latch have to be when I drop the hood to shut it?
View 7 Replies2011 Elantra GL.
Recently, we noticed a ticking sound coming from under the hood (the rate of "ticking" was proportional to the engine speed). We took the vehicle in to the local Hyundai dealership and didn't hear anything from them until 6 hours later. The news was interesting; they were going to perform a full engine replacement after consulting with Hyundai Canada. In my experience, a resolution of this large of a magnitude usually takes weeks of kicking and screaming for any large corporation to comply, however it seems like a pretty hasty conclusion, indicating to me that Hyundai might be already aware of such an issue...
So here is my question. We requested photos from the dealership, and they were able to send two pictures of one of the camshafts (not sure if it's the intake or exhaust cams), but the only thing that I could notice was some slight abrasion/wear; certainly not enough for me to ever come to the conclusion that a full engine swap was necessary. I've attached the pictures.
I've been driving a 2009 Hyundai Sonata for about 9 months now and it recently (2 weeks ish) started to not shut its hood. I haven't gotten it officially checked out yet as I'm low in funds and don't want to shell out money where I don't have to. I know it's dangerous to drive around with my car hood open (like an inch which is noticeable). I would shut it before I start driving and when I reach my destination it would be up again. Someone (a random guy who pulled up next to me at a red light and told me he could give me a quote for my hood... and the dent on the side of my passenger door) told me it may be due to a loose hood release handle on the driver side. There was no give when I tried the handle (is this called the latch?) and when this someone tried to loosen the rust on the hood lock itself (is this the latch idk these car terms), it still wouldn't close. It would click but pop right up. It keeps clicking when I close it but doesn't fully close because I could lift it up about an inch and it'd stay that way. He said it may be due to a cable issue with the release handle.
View 2 RepliesHad a small fender bender the other day Only noticeable damage is my hood doesn't close properly now. Still latches and doesn't seem to pop open, but it's stuck in the position that it would be in after releasing it (after pulling the hood release under the steering wheel). Not sure what's broken. My car is a 2004 Ford Taurus SE.
View 7 RepliesI opened up my hood and now it doesn't close... it seems like the latch isn't locking into place and holding the hood down. I do a lot of car work myself, but after countless hours of trying to figure out why my latch isn't locking shut, I give up. I am planning to take it to a local dealer after I schedule an appointment, but that means that I can't drive for a few days... maybe weeks if they are booked... I don't want the hood to pop up on the highway or anything.
View 24 Replies2003 Elantra GT 5-speed:
In driveway with constant pressure on accelerator (stick wedged between pedal and seat) a static rpm can be maintained for only a short time(< 2 min) time before rpm drops rapidly to idle rpm. Accelerator pedal never moves (still depressed to high rpm position) but engine is just idling away.
Note: New fuel filter and fuel pump recently installed as engine intermittently chugged/hesitated (acted like out of fuel for a fraction of a sec) especially with warmer air temperatures. Still does this but now unable to maintain driving rpm for any length of time.
2008 hyundai elantra. I'm trying to replace the rear brake pads and rotors. I was able to do the front ones easily. Any good tips to remove this rotor. I have tired tapping on a rotor and it wont budge.
View 2 RepliesThis might be better in the section of sun-roof issues, but I could not see how to add it there. Our 2013 GT has less that 5 thousand miles on it, and we've developed a problem where on occasion the sunroof will suddenly open or close all by itself. Sometimes it will just move one way or the other 2 or 3 inches than stop. Sounds crazy, and like something that will be hard to find.
View 2 RepliesI have bought a new key for my 2010 Corolla. But i can't seem to find a reliable source that has the process in order to sync my new key to my car. Does what the process is to sync my new key?
View 1 RepliesThe car has been parked for a few months and i get into it and the navi reads unable to read disk? So I eject it and its perfectly clean. I give it a wipe down just for good measure and slap it back in. after a few minutes and some hesitations it works fine.. Then it happens again like 20 miles away, just goes black and says unable to read disk then comes back on again by itself.. Would a newer updated disk work? I have 90k on it and this is the first time I've ever removed the nav disk, could the lens be dirty..
View 4 RepliesSince I purchased my 2010 I've never been able to use EV mode. I know it's just a novelty, and actually hurts gas mileage (due to the need to convert gas to electricity to recharge the battery), so I haven't lost sleep over this, but it is somewhat annoying.
Is there a known problem with 2010s and EV mode? No matter how gently I apply the accelerator it pops out into ECO mode again almost immediately with a message like "insufficient charge" (or something like that), even if the battery is near full charge (I've never seen it fully charged).
As I had two extra keys from my last Prius (totaled 2010), I took them to the dealer to get them programmed - they spent gobs of time, but could not get them to register. They verified they were the correct keys - but in the end, could not get through to Toyota's higher level tech support to troubleshoot it....
They said they'd try again on my first service. Why there would be an issue programming extra keys???
So I recently bought a Ross-Tech cable and have been doing some coding and was a little disappointed when I wasn't able to change the diff lock settings. After exploring a little more I came across Byte 1 bit 6 in CAN Gateway [32] Differential Locking. I tried checking it and then going back to adjust the diff lock settings but still no dice .
My vehicle is 2010 Golf TDI 5 door.
I've been using Bluetooth audio on my Samsung S3 phone. A great feature is that I was able to hit "media" button on RX and that would begin streaming music on my phone.
That all changed when I recently switched to Samsung S5. Now I am unable to use the streaming audio unless I initiate the music from the phone first.
Is there a setting or something I may have missed? I really liked just being able to do everything from the RX console without having to go to the phone for streaming music.