Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Turning Traction Control Off Under Normal Dry Conditions?
Nov 11, 2011
I was just thinking about this last night when driving home under heavy rain. It was nice to have it on the highway turns where there was heavy flooding and hydroplane possibilities, especially since I am used to 4 wheel drive in these conditions. I was wondering if I shouldn't be turning it off under normal conditions though? I know it's handy to do so if you are stuck in heavy snow but since the default is always on I wonder if there is any other gain to only using it when needed rather than only turning it off when needed?
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I need to troubleshoot a problem with the ABS & Traction control lights on a 2006 Mountaineer Premium with 126,000 miles. During the year that I have owned the vehicle this problem has occurred every time it is driven on a long trip. The previous owner never drove on longer trips so has no experience with this problem.
When you drive the vehicle around town and on shorter trips (less than an hour) there are no indications of problems. The ABS and Traction control lights come on as part of the start-up check cycle and go off. The ABS and Traction control work in low traction conditions and the lights function correctly when either one is activated.
The unusual behavior occurs on trips longer than an hour. Typically after about 1 1/2 hours at highway speed both the ABS and Traction control lights come on as well as the Wrench symbol in the message panel. It you hit "Reset" the Wrench symbol goes away but the ABS and Traction control lights stay on. The brakes work normally. I do not know if the ABS and Traction Control will work. I have never been in a low traction condition when the lights are on.
Both lights stay on until you stop the vehicle and turn off the ignition. When you restart the vehicle the ABS light is on but not the Traction Control light. When you start to drive the vehicle the ABS light goes out immediately.
After about 1/2 hour of driving both lights come on and the Wrench symbol displays in the message panel. Whenever you stop the vehicle and restart during the trip the cycle repeats. The day after you finish the long trip everything is normal for driving around town and on short trips.
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A large auto magazine has reviewed the Auris Hybrid (Gen III Prius drive train) while remarking that driving in 'B' gives better regen. This auto magazine also does a fuel economy evaluation and noted engine noise as a negative point for the car.
Now, how much fuel economy is affected during normal city/highway driving when you drive in 'B' rather than 'D'? And as a bonus. How much more will the engine run due to the missing regen?
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Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
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Long time since I have posted anything here, but I noticed the fan running far more than normal here. Now the outside temp was fairly warm, but the most recent day I noticed it, the temps were only around 80-85 degrees out.
I usually don't run the AC in my car unless it is terribly hot out - so when I hear a fan running it stands out to me. It is very obvious that it is coming from the rear seat vent area.
The temps here have taken a dip (highs tomorrow are only about 70-75F), so I will keep an ear out for it to continue. Is this something to be concerned about? It is a 2010 Prius IV with about 32k miles...
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Looking for an understandable procedure to turn off the VSC/traction control system for my vehicle?? I have a 6th gen 2008 Camry SE with the v6.
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I'm looking for tricks that I could do changing the codes in my golf like turning traction control off and ESP off.
2015 Golf 1.8 TSI
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My 2010 Subaru Outback recently surprised the hell out of me by simultaneously turning on the brake warning light, the traction control light, the check engine light and (just for a bonus!) disabled my cruise control while flashing the cruise control light. I pulled over, quickly surmising that all of those systems could not have failed at 70 MPH without instantaneous death to either me or the vehicle. Both apparently still being alive, I tried turning the car on an off to reset the lights. No go. Subaru was not going to miss this chance to get me to the dealership! (who I had avoided to this point!) As I was far away from home and the car being very healthy, it seemed, I decided to drive on. I proceeded to put a couple of hundred more miles on the car before I got back to town.
My car had 39,000 miles on it, 3,000 miles beyond the warranty end. I learned that I have an error code of P0171, "Fuel Trim Malfunction (Air/Fuel too lean)". So I guess I'm wondering about a few things...why would this sensor set off every light on my dashboard and disable my cruise control? Seems a bit overblown for running a bit lean. My gut tells me Subaru has a sensor/software problem they are not owning up to. I'm a big fan of conspiracy theories and this really smells like one...
Second, jeez, I'm only 3K miles over warranty, don't you think they'd cut me some slack. I mean I love my Subaru, or did anyway, until this happened. Now it's just another POS car that breaks for no apparent reason...
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I just replaced the steering rack today, things i noticed on the drive home:
I get the traction control light (i know its called something else, cant think of it) when i accelerate while turning. it'll cut the power to the throttle for a few seconds/ until i slow down or stop turning.
The light also comes on when i brake slightly hard. I am not anywhere close to locking up the brakes so i know its not the ABS. Whats going on?
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It's to a 1998 Lincoln Mark VIII. I love the thing and try to keep it running. Anyhow, I hooked a borrowed computer to it and it said that it was not reading the sensor. Yes, I checked all of the fuses. I also played hell getting a new (well, used) Anti-Lock Brake Sensor. Discontinued Motorcraft Part # BRAB81. No change in the problem.
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I've been hearing a faint but rapid ticking noise when taking faster exit/clover-leaft style turns (usually ~40mph). I think it's the ABS or traction control on the verge of kicking in because if I push it a little harder I do get the flashing traction control light on the dash, but the ticking is happening before that light comes on.
I'll ask the dealer when I do the courtesy 30 day inspection... I'm at the end of the 2nd week of ownership with 200 miles right now, so I'm still getting used to the car. (2013 Passat TDI SEL). Loving the 40+ mpg on my rush hour commute!
I did a search and didn't find anything on the B7 forum that might explain this noise. I don't think it's a CV joint since the car is new, it happens when going around these style turns either way and only seems to happen at higher speeds. I suspect it's just that the traction control is sensitive (or maybe I haven't scrubbed the tires enough yet to get good contact).
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I have a 2007 ford edge that when you turn left or right it sounds like the traction control is activating and makes a ratcheting noise. I have replaced cv joints and wheel bearings.
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Having issue where you get a continuous whistling while under normal driving conditions. I recently went to stage 3 Revo software using the Stasis Revo K04 upgrade kit, installed professionally. Have looked at all possible sources of the whistling, have narrowed it down to the the turbo itself. Can hear the car whistling from a good distance away from it. when not moving if I rev the engine i can reproduce the whistle as well, just not sustained. As soon as you press the throttle above 2400 RPM it starts whistling and continues to whistle as long as throttle is pressed. Car is almost un-drivable because of whistle.
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Model is 2006 2.2l Diesel (Europe - so second gen)
I've noticed that as the weather has gotten cooler my heater just doesn't heat up at all under normal driving conditions. I can see the actuators moving at the back of the unit and the car seems to get up to temperature fine.
When climate control is set to auto the A/C seems to come on intermittently which I find quite odd even when I have the temperature up quite high. If I leave the car in park and rev the engine heat will start to come through the vents, but this doesn't really represent normal driving conditions.
I have noticed small patches up water under the car when it's parked, so assumed there was a water leak, but when I top up the water it quickly overflows. So I'm thinking it might be an airlock maybe?
I'm really stuck, just want to see if there is anything I can rule out before I drop it into a garage to see if they can get to the bottom of it.
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On a '03 Solara, I've got this code. It designates Shift Solenoid Performance (stuck off) for the S4 valve. It makes sense because the trans won't shift into 4th gear in normal conditions.
But I was wondering what the likelihood of the transmission speed sensor set this code by giving a faulty reading that was too slow. The car seems like it is going somewhat faster than the speedometer is reading. RPMs are over 3000 at 50 mph. Seems like I'm doing 60-65. I wonder if the ECM is not commanding the 3-4 shift because it 'thinks' the car has not reached the required speed?
Or possibly the button on the shifter is simply malfunctioning. The indicator light on the dash comes on if the button is pushed, and goes out when you push it again. I'm not familiar with what the normal RPM would be at highway cruising. It's a 4 cyl with 169,400 miles. Would torque converter clutch be more likely to fail than the shift solenoids on these cars?
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OK, long story short. I had P2284 code on my scan gauge after replacing the oil cooler. I contributed it to air in the oil system. Sure enough, a few days of hard driving and the code went away.
Now a week later, I fired up my truck on a cold start yesterday morning. It's not that cold here(low 40's in the morning), but the oil started off at about 50F. Correspondingly, ICP at is higher, at around 1000(it's like this every morning until oil warms up). I usually let it warm up a tad before driving but yesterday I didn't, and hit the gas pedal a little hard once and the truck started acting like it does when you get this code.
Sure enough, check scan gauge and the code is there. I drive home(about 15 minutes). A half hour later I start the truck up, check codes, and it's back to normal. Of course, oil temps were higher and ICP in the normal range between 580-590.
So is this normal? Since it doesn't trigger a CEL I assume it's more of a system parameters code? Only other thing I can think of, if this isn't normal, is a mucked up IPR screen from when I installed my BPD oil cooler.
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When driving, I notice when the ICE kicks on. I assume this is normal but just want to hear from others.
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Is there a way to turn off Traction Control on a 2012 Prius? It's not useful when trying to break a path thru heavy wet snow. I've looked in the Owners Manual, but so far haven't found a description of deactivating Traction Control.
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I bought a 3rd Gen Prius 2012, I found that the Traction Control is already disabled, (the light is on in the led panel in the dashboard) and I want to turn it on for safety, I live in region with regular temperature and it never snow. So how to turn it on again.
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My uncles car traction control light comes on when it feels like it. Its a 2010 with 6000miles 4cyl. Warranty is up in december. Can this problem be a sensor on the wheels? I will bring it in to have dealer check it. I just wanted a heads up of what it could be.
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On Friday, the traction control light turned on (with no sound) and stayed on while driving, stopped and parked. I brought it to my local dealership to check and see what was wrong. I was informed that the steering angle sensor circuit went bad. I asked if the car could drive fine without the repair and was told it would be okay. I also asked if this error light could be turned off and was informed that it was impossible. I went home and parked. Sunday night, I noticed that none of the interior lights would work.
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