Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Trunk Light Extremely Dim
May 25, 2012
Noticed the trunk light extremely dim? I find the trunk light almost useless. I know the bulbs are usually dual filament, could one filament be burnt out?
Are there any cheap fleabay LED bulbs, any way to brighten the trunk space?
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I have a trunk light that seems to work only half the time.... maybe less. It is a 2013 elantra limited and i have brought it to the dealership and had them look at it and was told that it worked for them every time.... would having stuff in the trunk cause an issue, possibly they emptied it out and i keep stuff in it? Looking for a wiring schematic or know where or how the switch operates?
(Also was intermittent with stock bulbs and replaced with the exledusa 6k LED's and still same issue... should i take that out as well and put stock light back in when going to the dealership incase they try to blame it on the LED? can they?)
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When you press your remote, trunk will stay closed and won't open. Must use the lever under the seat for opening it. What can cause this issue.
Battery is new. Also there is some another issue, didn't look it yet, one of the plate lamp is not working while trunk is closed. When you lift up your trunk it will begin work, when you close - no work.I assume there is some wire connection problem, but how it might affect the opening a trunk?
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I just noticed a burnt smell in the trunk of my 2013 Elantra Limited with 4,000 miles. You can't smell it inside the car. Called the dealer and was told, "Oh, don't worry, that's the burn-in smell", it will go away in a few weeks".
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elenatra 7 months old. the trunk opens by itself very often. I asked at the service department at the dealership and they say never heard of this problem. Also I came out yesterday the battery was dead even thought nothing was left on. I fell there must be some electrical or switching problem with this car.
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I have leased a new Hyundai Elantra Limited 2012. We have noticed a very strong odor in the trunk. We have removed all the trunk mats and spare tire insulation trying to air them out and the smell still persists. It smells like something is burning or has burnt near the wheel wells or the back fold down seats. How to get rid of it?
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I've had the car since the end of April. About 8 or 9 times I've had people come into my office and tell me that my truck is open.
If you own one of these you know that the word "hair trigger" does not come to mind with opening the truck remotely. You have to purposely work the trunk button. I really don't thinks it's because I sat on the key fob or bumped it so it accidentally opened the trunk.
As you can imagine I keep valuable things in my trunk so this is not good.
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Having problem with trunk lid ....... it is occasionally opening without activation ....... sometimes I'm less than a 1/2 mi from home, sometimes one to two miles from home ...... trunk just opens and button (trunk release) on key fob has not been pushed ???
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The trunk lid on my 2014 Hyundai Elantra has popped open all by itself about a dozen times in the six months I have had the car. The dealer has replaced the latch assembly (no dice) and then replaced the remote key (no dice).
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Experience with rattling coming from the rear/trunk area. My 2013 1500km new limited with Nav have developed a very bad rattle coming from the back.
I have tried removing the rear deck and no luck, There are now nothing in the trunk except for my spare tire kit. the rattle gets louder when I fold down the rear seat. The rattle seems worse and more frequent when the car is between 10 to 60 km/s...
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2014 Elantra SE with premium package, I've had it a little over a month. Last week the ac plug stopped working in the passenger seat area. BF said have them check at first service.
Now the trunk wouldn't open with my key fob, or the spare. So I thought maybe a shopping bag handle got in the way. On the way home from the store, the trunk open light popped on randomly. Trunk wasn't open. Okay, that's odd...
Now the alarm has been going off randomly. 3 times in the past 2 hours, I'm wondering if it's a massive electrical problem waiting to happen.
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After driving my 2012 Elantra for about two years, I have many times had the trunk just open, seemingly on its own. I always figured that it was simply my fault: you know, I bent the wrong way and the fob in my pocket got the trunk button pushed, etc...
But I always felt that there was more to it than that, as I doubt my pants push the button that much. Now a friend that I work with expressed the same trunk doubts to me about his one year old 2013 Elantra. He said that yesterday his trunk was open and he had not even touched his keys. Incidentally, I had a trunk opening experience yesterday too!
So what gives with the spontaneous trunk opening? Is there an identifiable cause? A known software defect? Something else?
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The trunk of my 2013 Elantra GLS pops open randomly when the car is parked, unoccupied, and I am well away from it. This happens about once every week or ten days. Last night it popped open during a heavy rain and the trunk was soaked. I can not trust the trunk as a safe place for anything of value. I suspected at first that the remote was doing this by somehow getting squeezed in my pants pocket, but I can not cause it to replicate this by pressing on the pants pocket or squeezing the remote against the key or a pocket comb or such. I have considered abandoning the remote but with no trunk key that is very inconvenient.
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It happened twice today. Didn't hit the trunk button on the key fab either. In fact I have a remote starter with a different fab.
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My 2013 Elantra doesn't come with a key lock for the trunk; the only way to open it is via the key fob or the manual release under the driver's seat.
Is there any way to disable the key fob from opening the trunk, so that only the manual release will work? I'd want to do this for security reasons. My old car had a "valet switch" in the trunk, but the Elantra doesn't have it. I don't know if there's a mechanism I can unplug, or if removing the trunk fuse from the interior fuse panel would do the trick...
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The trunk light works intermittently. It will run fine for about 45 seconds, then shut off for 10-15s, and cycles... Sometimes it stays on forever, sometimes it cycles on and off all at once about every minute or two. Or sometimes it only shuts off once, runs fine. Then only when i close and open the door again can i get it to then shut off again in ~45 seconds.
Finally got out the voltmeter and figured out where it's coming from. It's the diode that's attached to the trunk light.
Why is a diode there? Why a diode would behave that way? or is it possibly a solder joint? I still have my standard incandescent bulb in there.
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I have a 2010 Elantra Touring, manual transmission. At about 30,000 miles it developed an odd feature which continues through the present time with just under 50,000 miles. At any speed and on any road from time to time I suddenly get a loud interior noise like driving right next to a train running on a track. There is no vibration, just a very loud rumbling sound drowning out the radio. Goes away after a few minutes, does not recur on the same piece of road, same temperature, or same time of day. When it first occurred the dealer inspected it and though they could not hear it they divined that the aftermarket cruise control mounting bracket had become loose and was vibrating. They tightened it and the sound went away for a year but is now back louder than ever. I checked the bracket and it is tight and the dealer can find nothing loose. The bumper to bumper warranty is about to expire. I am thinking a crack in a steel bearing surface or a bad weld causing a vibration running through the body. Again I feel no actual vibration through the steering wheel.
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For some reason, I didn't close my trunk door good last night and I discovered that the trunk remained open all night long, about 12 hours. I am worried that the trunk light may have drained my battery. The car started up just fine with no delays or odd noises.
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Hyundai Elantra 2011... My issue occurred just yesterday on a highway at speeds above 65 mph. I initially noticed my traction control light blinking upon light acceleration but with no noticeable loss in traction.
I continued with caution. About 5 minutes later, the light now was blinking regardless of the amount of acceleration. I found I could push the accelerator to the floor with no added power and my speedometer was dropping below 55 mph.
Being a busy highway, I had to very quickly get to the side of the road as my car dropped to dangerous speeds in the middle of the highway. Had I no shoulder or outlet, I could've been in serious trouble.
The situation resolved itself with a simple shut down, restart of the vehicle. But it makes me very concerned why the error in the computer occurred in the first.
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In our recent -20 F cold spell in Chicago, I noticed the ride got very stiff, have others experienced this in very cold weather? My theory is that the oil in the shocks or dampers become extra viscous at these temps and the cold shocks causes the ride to becomes like that of a Honda Civic with a dropped suspension. (It's so amusing to watch those Civic "low riders" going over railroad crossings, but it's all image right????)
Anyway I would think the colder temps would lower the air pressure in the tires, softening the tires a bit, but perhaps the rubber hardens counteracting that benefit. I have Michelin Primacy BTW. Since temps went back up above about +10 F ride seem to be OK again.
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I have a 2010 Chevy 1500 extended cab. For a few years it was a daily driver. It has 54000 miles. For the last 1.5 years I have been driving a company vehicle so my truck sits a lot and usually only gets driven once a week when I'm off running errands and such. Recently if I drive it just around town a few miles here and there, everything is fine. But if I drive it to a farther location say 20-30 minutes away the truck will start to shift extremely hard into second gear from first to second. The first time it happened I though I got rear ended by another car only to look around and no one was behind me. I wouldnt think the trans. would be going out at 54000 miles.
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