Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Transmission Side Leaking
Mar 26, 2012
So I lifted the car up to get under there to change the oil when I noticed the transmission side was covered with fluid.
The mileage has never been good with this car for us and it never liked to shift (would race up to 4000rpms at times before shifting with minimal throttle). So I am beginning to believe that this might be the cause of it. We haven't noticed any spots in the driveway and the dealer has done all the service before this.
Car has 9000 miles now and is a 2012. It goes in tomorrow because that's the earliest the dealer had an appointment. Will update with what they say.
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Our Elantra Coupe has 3000 miles on it and leaks ATF. Everyday I see more than a few drops underneath the drivers side. We took it to the dealer. They "re-tightened the bolts" but the leak continues. I crawled under it, removed the plastic belly pan and took some photos.
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I have a 2012 elantra limited about 9 month's old with about 14,000 miles on it.
About a week ago I began noticing a burning smell. I first chalked it up to being 1,000 over the 3k mark for an oil change. However I then started to pay attention when I parked if there was any sign of fluids leaking. At first I didn't notice any or seemed like one or two drips. Well tonight I noticed a larger puddle that was def not water.
The other symptom is that it's been shifting up at higher RPMs. Tonight when I got on the freeway I was trying to speed up to 65 but the rpm gauge had me at over 4,000 rpms with normal acceleration...I was not gunning it. I also could not get the car to go past 60 at first, all the while the rpm increasing still, until I let off the gas then hit it again and seemed to trip it to shift and was able to get to 65.
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I have a 2013 Elantra and yesterday all this water came into the car underneath the glove box / under the dash. When making right or left hand turns you can hear the water sloshing around behind the dash. Its definitely water. What is causing water to leak into the car?
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I love my Elantra Limited! Put almost 7k on her already. I did notice something about the sunroof recently though. Recently, I noticed it isn't flush with the roof. It sticks up a little in the rear.
Also, I was washing my car today, and noticed that the "drip tray" (I believe it's called, the plastic around the seam of the sunroof interior), had some water in it. It seems a little water got through the area where it's sticking up.
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A couple weeks ago I had my first oil change - not at the dealer - but at a place I've gone a hundred times. After I noticed every day a puddle, not a couple drops but a puddle going down my driveway or wherever I parked of water.
I thought for a few days it was condensation off the engine, or the AC, since it was very hot. Except I don't use the AC much & wasn't using it when the water was leaking. I looked under the car & there is a hose hanging from the back of the engine area & dripping water.
I've honestly never looked under the car & noticed the hose & it's only hanging about an inch - so I'm not sure I've just never noticed... But until the oil change there was never a noticeable water leak..
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So I changed my own oil today 2013 Elantra GLS, did everything as I assume I should have, pulled the plug, changed the filter, put a new OEM crush gasket on and replaced the plug. I screwed it in with my fingers until i couldn't anymore, then used a 17mm wrench to tighten it. Now I have a slow drip coming from the bolt. I doubt I would have stripped it, I carefully hand tightened the bolt.
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So I have a 2004 Hyundai Elantra 5 speed. The driver side cv axle seal started leaking a few months ago and I finally got around to repairing it. Everything went relatively smooth until I got to replacing the seal...
The problem is, it will NOT fit over the cv axle. It just won't. When the seal is installed, not matter how much force I put on the axle it will not go in. Also, I even pulled the seal back out and tried to put it onto the axle out of the car and there is no way it is going on. This is the third seal (done the rounds to through the big name parts stores) and no go.
Now, some quick car back story, I generally do all of my own repairs, but over the winter in the midst of a family tragedy I had a friend (professional mechanic with a shop) do a bunch of work to the car. He replaced the boot and joint that goes into the transmission (he did not replace the entire cv axle assembly for some reason). What I am beginning to think is that he replaced it with the wrong part.
Now, what I am wondering, is this even possible? Is it possible that it could fit and work perfectly yet be wrong? This also appears to be what broke the original seal. The inner portion of the seal was totally blown out in a circle, but perfectly, like it was crushed or cut out, and I am wondering if this happened due to having extreme force applied to it (possibly when he reinstalled it?)
That, or is it just extremely difficult / next to impossible to get these seals on? Even with both parts out of the car, stretching and pushing down on the seal (oiled it up as well to see if that would work) with all my might yields no results.
The leak was not there for the first month or so that I got the car back and then showed up. I have put about 5k miles on the car since I got it back. With Monday quickly approaching, I am wondering if I should just blow the crap out of my budget and pick up a new cv axle? I could at least have them pull one and let me see if the seal fits, I suppose.
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My area has been hammered by rain for the past several weeks and I've noticed water leaking in around my driver's side headliner and down my column. I suspect it is the moonroof drain hole that is causing the problem, but when I pour water into the hole it drains out of the bottom of the car like it should be.
I want to check the drain nipple under the column trim to see if the hose is damaged there and leaking, but I'm not sure how to remove it. I've read about the Sante Fe trim removal and it sounds like you should just be able to pull on it from the top and work your way down, but I want to check as I don't want to start breaking clips to "test" out if it works.
Is the column held in by friction clips that should come loose if I pull with enough pressure toward the rear-view mirror?
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Where the Air Door Actuator is located in the Elantra 2014, and How to reach it?
I want to check it as my AC is blowing Hot air from driver side and Cold air from passenger side.
I read that there are 2 of them, one for temp control and another one controls where the air goes, one at the passenger side and one at the driver side...
Which one should i start with, where is it located, and how to reach it?
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My 1.8 2014 Elantra AC started blowing Hot Air from Driver Side and Cold from Passenger side and i noticed this after a battery problem. It all started when battery problem, suddenly both sides warm ac, i took it to a mechanic, he said nothing to do with battery and said it is a freon problem, he fixed it for 1 day or 2, and i went changed the battery, then suddenly, one side hot and one side cold.
Things i tried:
1. Removing AC fuses for 1 hour
2. Removing AC fuses while car on and then turn off car and replace fuses
3. Changed car filters
4. Hot cold hot cold switching technique
5. No freon leakage
Temperature here is around 120 degrees so you can imagine!
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When first drove the new Elantra, I stalled it more than should. At first I figured I was just new to the feel of the clutch, and not in tune with the hints of RPM given by the motor's sound, etc.
A couple of times after stalling, I pulled the shifter to a middle neutral, and then back in 1st, and now it really felt like it was in 1st. Eventually, I developed a quirky habit of shifting out of 1st to neutral and back to 1st every time I stopped. My kids commented on it and they don't even drive.
A couple of times I've cautiously done this test, and it proved my suspicion. Suppose you are coasting at a speed of around 40 mph or 60 kph, and intend to come to a stop ahead. I typically push the clutch in and coast, then brake. Somewhere along the coast to stop, I will also put the gear into 1st. I've discovered that if the gear shift is put into 1st while the coast speed is sufficiently high, the actual gear selected is 3rd. Then, when you start to pull away from the stop, the engine stalls.
If anyone tries to reproduce this shift into 3rd when 1st was intended while still coasting, be careful and let out the clutch slowly at the early part of the release so you will get a hint from the engine RPMs what gear it is heading toward. I don't want to be responsible for wear and tear on your transmission/engine or accidents. I've only attempted this test on a road with no traffic, myself.
Although what I am claiming sounds wacky, I think it is possible, given that transmissions over the years have been moving towards electronic rather than physical linkage.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic with the Tiptronic transmission. last week I went to put the transmission into Tiptronic mode and it would not go in. it like crunch to the right and would not shift gear up or down nor would the gear number appear on the digital dash.
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I just bought a 2010 3.0 V6. Oil is leaking down the engine on the rear passenger side of the engine. It starts near the top. I replaced the rear valve cover gasket but it still leaks. I am concluding that it must be the timing chain cover. I can't find any info on how to diagnose and how to repair.
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I have a 2010 Elantra and I have been having problems accelerating in the last couple of months. Took it to a mechanic and they said it's definitely my transmission. I am at 51,118 miles and so I am still under warranty. The Hyundai dealership said the transmission needs to be completely replaced. How does this happen to a car that isn't that old and doesn't have many miles on it? A factory defect?
The dealership, being a dealership tried to get me to do a bunch of other stuff to my car and I wanted to ask all of you about one of them. They said my battery is going to die soon. I guess it's at 236 (amps?) and should be at 550 (according to the dealership, that's where it should be). Is that right? I don't know enough about cars to know whether this is right and don't tend to trust dealerships.
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I have a 2011 Elantra with 73k miles. When the automatic transmission fluid should be replaced? I can't seem to find any info on this. My transmission is starting to shift slightly rough. I've contacted 3rd party mechanics about doing the job, and they said they cant do it since there isn't a place to fill the transmission fluid under the hood.
They claim that the Elantra has a sealed transmission and needs to be done by a transmission specialist.
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My automatic transmission slipped today. Really worried now. 2011 elantra with 36k on it. It was raining and I was turning right out of a shopping center. I floored it to beat the incoming traffic and the tranny slipped. It hasn't slipped since then and has been perfect so I know the dealer will say they can't replicate the problem. Should I be worried about this?
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I have a 2015 Hyundai Elantra SE with only 3880 miles on it. I purchased it new last March. I have noticed when the car is cold when I shift from Park to Drive or Reverse to Drive, the transmission does not always engage immediately. It takes a second or so (not much over a second, but I haven't timed it). The car shifts smooth without any other issues. I have not noticed this concern when the car is warmed up, or seen this when shifting into reverse.
Should I be concerned about this shifting behavior? I have not contacted the dealership yet.
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I have a rather strange issue with my '11 sedan gl and it appears to be getting worse but the issue is so intermittent that its hard to find a pattern.
The problem is that sometimes in the first 5 minutes of a drive, I will have very rough gear changes. Its an all or nothing usually. If I start my drive, it will either do it or it wont and if it does, its gonna last a good 5 minutes or so at every gear change.
When the gear changes, I will feel a jolt a bit like I would tap the brake a little and the gear will engage but will take a good second or two before doing so. When the car runs smooth, the gear changes are smooth and quick but I just get that strange behavior once in a while and when it happens, I always wonder if the transmission will break on me.
The occurrence of this is rather concerning as of late. Last winter as an example, it happened only 2-3 times the whole winter. Lately however, it is almost doing it every day (I've had it happen maybe 3 times this week).
I went to the dealer. No error codes and they can't find anything wrong with it and since this happens only during the first 5 minutes or so for the entire day, when they do a test run they of course can't spot the problem. I went to a local garage and same thing there again same response.
At first I thought that I didn't leave the car idle long enough during the cold winter days but we are in the 20 degrees Celsius now. At startup, I always wait until the engine drops the rpm back at 1000 or so before getting on my way (which is between 30 to 60 seconds).
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engine light came on 3 days ago....engine/transmission seemed to be "misfiring" a bit.....engine light went off after 3 days.....took in today, computer says some "transmission sensor/module" not working properly.....will take 3 hrs to repair but warranty covering it.
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This is the second time I notice a problem with my 2014 elantra base model. The car only has 13000kms and today the car acted with a weird behaviour. This car has a manual 6 speed transmission.
Out of the blue the car jerked like it had a problem with the transmission switching gears which is weird as this is a manual.
The second time this happened the wife was driving and she said that she was in is third gear and she pressed the clutch and the brake at the same time and she felt a small jerking feel in the clutch like it didn't engage.
The problem is that I cant reproduce the problem. The car is still under warranty and I don't want to go to the dealer with a problem that I cant exhibit.
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