Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Sunroof Not Closing Properly
Jul 16, 2013
Earlier today I went out to give a family friend a ride and as the temperature had climbed, elected to close the sunroof and windows and use the A/C. While out, I noticed an abnormal amount of wind noise coming from the sunroof and double-checked to make sure it was actually closed. It didn't budge when I pushed it towards the 'closed' position so I figured it was just my imagination.
Well cut to getting home about 20 minutes later and sure enough, the sunroof is ever so slightly down at the back, even when stopped in the 'closed' position. In order to get a proper seal, I have to tap the tilt switch up ever so briefly.
I'm hoping that the sunroof control unit has simply lost its bearings and needs to be reset and though I've got an appointment set up with my dealer for next Tuesday (the soonest they have available), I tried my own solution for the night. I put the roof in as close to the properly closed position as possible and disconnected the negative battery terminal. I plan on leaving it this way for at least 8 or 9 hours and shall report back.
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Trouble shooting my sunroof. When I first go the car the sunroof would open but not close, even when I pushed in the button to reset.
I have replace/ and calibrated replace the switch now I get the fallowing.
When I put it to open all the way, it goes in to vent mode ( the back opens up), ( when i put it close it closes fine).
When i put in vent the sunroof slide back 1/4 of the way. when I try to close it closes and opens back to 1/4 open. I have to close it and press the button in to close it.
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Is it normal for my 2014's sunroof to open only 3/4 of the way, then stop? I can open it the rest of the way if I hold the button. Any way to make it open all the way with one press?
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I have a 2006 Volkswagon Jetta GLI and when the check engine light went on I took it to my local car guy. He said the Turbo Waste Gate isn't closing properly and I should take it to the dealer to see if it can be repaired or if it has to be replaced. He told me could replace it if that's what's needed but he can't repair it but I can still drive it probably just for a few months before it needs to be fixed.
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I have a 2010 Elantra and I have been having problems accelerating in the last couple of months. Took it to a mechanic and they said it's definitely my transmission. I am at 51,118 miles and so I am still under warranty. The Hyundai dealership said the transmission needs to be completely replaced. How does this happen to a car that isn't that old and doesn't have many miles on it? A factory defect?
The dealership, being a dealership tried to get me to do a bunch of other stuff to my car and I wanted to ask all of you about one of them. They said my battery is going to die soon. I guess it's at 236 (amps?) and should be at 550 (according to the dealership, that's where it should be). Is that right? I don't know enough about cars to know whether this is right and don't tend to trust dealerships.
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I love my Elantra Limited! Put almost 7k on her already. I did notice something about the sunroof recently though. Recently, I noticed it isn't flush with the roof. It sticks up a little in the rear.
Also, I was washing my car today, and noticed that the "drip tray" (I believe it's called, the plastic around the seam of the sunroof interior), had some water in it. It seems a little water got through the area where it's sticking up.
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So I've had my Elantra Limited for a couple weeks now and love it! But the past couple days or so, the sunroof has been acting a bit twitchy. When I hit the button to close it, it closes almost all the way, then reopens. I know it has an "automatic reversal" feature that prevents things getting stuck, but I checked and saw nothing in the tracks? Hopefully it's nothing major, since it's a new car.
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I can lock the doors with the key fob but it does not beep. The alarm sets, and the passenger doors all lock, but the drivers door does not. I have checked that all doors are closing properly, and the transmission is in park.
I also tried both key fobs with the same result. The alarm LED flashes about 6 times before glowing steady - is this a code of some sort?
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I have a weird situation, when I open the sunroof then try to close it, it slides to the middle then opens again. After four trials the sunroof switches to manual then I close it manually.
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Out of nowhere began the horrendous screeching wind noise after closing my sunroof during this morning's commute. The sunroof had been dead-quiet all the years I've owned the car. This was not a gradual event, but quite sudden, and occurred after the third closure within 20 minutes. I cycled the sunroof open and closed several times, but to no avail. After arriving at work, I inspected the channels for debris, the rubber seal for failure, and the general appearance and alignment of the glass to the opening. Everything appeared normal. The only thing that alleviated the noise was slightly opening the driver side window, but this in not an acceptable solution.
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When I open my sunroof, it doesn't fully open in one shot. If I want it fully open I must press the button again and hold it. Is this normal?
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I've noticed one a while that my steering wheel volume control freak out! Sometimes, when I push it, instead of volume going up or down the telephone function gets activated?
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When I open my sunroof and then later on go to close it, it will come in half way and then stop and go back in to open.
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I have had my Elantra Limited 2012 for about a month. Just recently I heard a rattle that appeared to be coming from the rear of the vehicle, but after moving my head around I have since been able to isolate it to the sunroof right about the driver's head. I can reach up there an pull down on a metal hinge, and the rattling stops. Drives me crazy listening to a rattle right above my head.
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2014 Elantra GLS ... Upon closing, and just as it reaches the wind defector, the Sunroof will " kick back" no apparent reason. This may happen once, twice in a row or not at all. I have checked the sunroof path and the wind defector, but no obstructions are visible.
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Today was the first day I drove my Elantra on the interstate with the sunroof open. When I was cruising at 65-70mph, I kept hearing a noise that I thought was coming from another car. It sort of sounded like a popping or thumping noise. After a few minutes, I reached my hand up and noticed the sound was coming from the metal bar that rises up a little at the front of the opening when the glass slides back. The wind was vibrating it and making it flap in the wind.
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Nothing is more annoying to me than constant rattles and noises in a vehicle. My 2012 Limited Elantra makes a couple of noises that are really annoying. The first is a constant light rattle the seems to come from the dome light area or the sunroof. I haven't been able to pinpoint it, but it drives me nuts. The other noise comes from the back doors area, or maybe the pillars. It happens on both sides, but mostly on the drivers side, and it only happens when the car goes over certain bumps, or when I take a curve a certain way. It almost sounds like a cracking noise. I've heard of glove compartment rattles, but that doesn't seem to happen with my car.
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I have a 2009 camry with sunroof my overhead console is not working properly there is a 2007 camry console for sale that looks the same,my question is will it fit and work properly?
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My Accent has a manually operated pop up type sunroof. Last summer I removed the glass on a particularly hot day. Unfortunately, when I put it back in that same day it would no longer seat properly along the front edge. When the sunroof is fully closed the front edge of the glass is raised above the seal. This gap creates a lot of wind noise and I'm concerned about water getting in now that winter is here. I've removed and re-installed the glass numerous times and just can't get it to lock down in the front. The metal mounting tabs on the front of the glass are going all the way into their slots. The back edge of the glass is sealing well and sinking flush with the black rim of the opening. The rubber gasket is in good condition with no warping or dislocation. I'm looking for some input before I start doing permanent things like bending the metal tabs or the roof opening.
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So I noticed that since day 1, whenever I close the door (both driver/passenger side), part of the door rattles, almost like it reverberates. It makes the car feel really cheap, and find it hard to believe that this is normal, since I never heard this with any other Toyota. I'm not sure if it is the window rattling, or the window frame.
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I noticed that my ability to preclude somebody's smelly exhaust from my interior disappeared several months ago. It seemed that when I would switch from outside air to recirc that not much would change. I would still be getting outside air through my AC, even when on recirc.
I pulled off my glove box and removed the cabin air filter to expose the mechanism. The air inlet door is a scoop shaped door right above the cabin air filter that pivots one way or the other depending on whether you were on recirc or outside air.
I can switch it using my AC controls and it does indeed move. It seats properly when on outside air mode but stops short when on recirc. It does not properly seat.
I did try the "turbo" button that is supposed to filter the hell out of your inside air and that did not affect the location of the air inlet door. As far as I can see the mechanism is moving and looks ok.
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