Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Stripping Noise Whenever Turn On A/C Or Blower For Windshield
Jul 8, 2014
I have had noise problem under dash or wherever it may be. I am not sure where the exact location because I can't pinpoint it out. I hear the noise whenever I turn on A/C or blower for windshield. Basically, anything which is related to air will make noise. It's like water striping noise. Something like cold water drops on hot metal. You can hear the noise at night clearly but during the day, it is hard to hear but still is hearable. Besides that, the car is quite. The Hyundai service has changed my blower but the noise is still there. The service man said it was hard for them to know what caused the noise but they had no clue right now.
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I have a 98 Passat 1.8T with 99,000 miles on her. The stripping on the either side of the windshield has just about completely disintegrated from the desert heat in Vegas. I have tried searching all over the internet but I can't find exactly what I need.
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In the last few weeks I have noticed that when I have the control set to floor only (manual system, not dual) I still have more air going to windshield than the floor. I can switch to Windshield/Floor, Center Vent and all seems ok. Just when in floor only it seems to keep going to Windshield. Asked the service rep at last oil change and he said it's normal for some air to always go to the windshield/defrost. I'm going back to dealer and check a new F150 XLT to verify I have a problem.
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My Elantra's HVAC fan has always been a quiet thing, even on 3.....we won't mention level 4 and the fact it sounds like a 747 at takeoff.
I kid you not, the very evening I hit 60,000 miles and the general warranty expired, the blower motor started making noise like it was throwing a bearing and definitely sounded like some light metal-on-metal rubbing. After I became irritated at this, the noise went away and didn't come back until just a few weeks ago. I could make it stop by smacking on the bottom of the fan assembly a few times but I want a more permanent solution.
Tonight I dropped the blower out which was stupid easy except for the fact you're upside down in the dark with your head in a hole. But three screws and an electrical connector later, I dropped the assembly to find no serviceable components. I mentioned this to friend of mine who's into Volvos suggested spraying some lithium grease on the hub of the blower and letting it run long enough to quiet it down. I'll do this over the next few days and report back but part of me thinks a new blower may be in my future.
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So I noticed this ever since I got my Elantra (2013). When I have Active Eco on, it seems like the AC fan speeds up and slows down a little, sporadically.
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I was washing my Elantra earlier and I noticed water spots all over the windshield when I was done cleaning it! Side, and rear windows too. What can I do to get rid of them? I tried 50/50 water and vinegar, and a lot came off but I still have quite a bit.
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I did not find a solution to my 2011 Elantra GLS's windshield fogging up when it is raining. Other vehicles I owned would clear the foggy windscreen by simply turning the fan on the windshield setting. No A/C necessary.
However, when the Elantra fogs up while driving in the rain, it requires that I put the A/C on (not in recirc mode) to clear the glass. After it clears, I shut-off the A/C to conserve fuel, but after 30 secs or so, it begins to fog up again.
There is no apparent water in the car, or wet floormats, so I'm wondering what could cause this?
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Just bought a used 2011 Elantra Limited and noticed a scratching sound when the wipers are activated. The result is a small scratch towards the bottom part of the windshield.
I can see exactly what is causing it - there is a spring that allows the wiper arm to pivot and the spring connects to a piece of metal that sticks out a bit when the arm is flat against the windshield. The piece of metal bows out a bit and only touches the windshield for a few inches when the wiper arm is at the bottom of the windshield.
I have tried to bend the wiper arm and also tried to bend the piece of metal to no avail to get the scratching to stop.
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The car will be at the dealer to trouble shoot why the windshield wipers stay on when the engine is running. Will not shut off! Obvious parts replaced to no avail.
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So recently I decided to add some fluid to the windshield washer tank, but when I added some, a clump of slime fell right in. Needless to say I couldn't do much about it. Now I have no fluid running through the system. What could I do to purge the junk out of the system? And where is the pump that drives the system?
I figured out I would have to remove the bumper to get to this part. In theory I could take it up to the dealership ...
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2012 Elantra GLS ... The windshield washer spray pattern is too low. The nozzles on the Elantra appear to be entirely plastic unlike the conventional ball which I can poke a needle in to adjust it. I ran the hand under the cowl cover and could not feel any kind of adjustment mechanism. How to adjust the nozzles to aim higher.
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Ok, here's the issue, I've cleaned the inside and outside of the windshield with Windex atleast 3 times and it still has a hazy, hand oil smeary, appearance to it. I've also used Invisible Glass with same results.
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Key fob isn't working at all blue led on windshield isn't blinking at all. Checked all fuses, wires everything. What could be the issue? Car starts and drives fine just the key fob isn't working
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I own an Elantra GLS 2012, and starting a week ago, I noticed my windshield washer was coming out through the nozzles with low pressure (1/2 of the windshield). Yesterday one stopped working and the left nozzle is "spitting" (1/3 of the windshield).
I thought they are clogged and today I tried to unclog them using computer air cleaner, but air was coming out through the left nozzle with pressure and nothing through the right nozzle. When I tried to wash my windshield, no pressure on my right nozzle and low pressure on my left nozzle. Same as before.
I plugged off the tube from the hose connector under the hood, and if I pull back the control bar, I have a stream of washer liquid over 3m (10ft) long, but if I put my finger on the hose, I don't have pressure on the windshield washer.
My question is: the nozzles are clogged or the pump is dead?
I know the clogged nozzles are not under warranty, but what about the pump?
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I recently picked up my first Gen III after having traded in my Gen II. I'm certainly happier about a lot of things, but do miss a few things too. One being the option to turn air recirculation on when using the windshield defogger.
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First off let me say I love my TDi for everything I bought it for...fuel economy, space, ride comfort.
I've noticed the wind noise before but had never taken a drive more than 30 minutes.I just took my first 300 mile road trip and REALLY noticed the EXCESSIVE wind noise.
I traded a 2010 GTI and its weather stripping was more full and produced a much better closed door seal and I never once had problems with wind noise in the 2 years that I owned.
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Purchased 2011 Prius 2 with 108500 miles on 4/29/2015. Didn't fully check all climate control settings and fan speeds. Two days later, car had vibration and rumbling sound which was increasingly severe on three highest climate control fan speeds in all modes (e.g. AC, heat, auto, manual, etc.). Sounded like a quiet lawnmower on highest fan speed. Was quiet on three lowest fan speeds. Glove box and passenger side dash vibrated in sync with noise.
Cabin air filter had been replaced by a large Toyota Dealer as part of pre-sale prep. I suspected filter was not installed properly. Removed glove box and filter, which had been properly installed. Vibration/noise were same when fan was operated without filter or glove box installed.
Felt around inside of fan housing. There was debris, including seven pieces of acorn shell (see image below). The concave sections of the shells were firmly wedged in the fins of the squirrel cage (no pun intended!) impeller. Cleaned out all nuts and debris, reassembled, fan operated quietly without vibration at all fan speeds.
The shells essentially unbalanced the impeller and induced vibration at high fan speeds, just like an unbalanced wheel would induce shimmy or vibration at freeway speeds. What is baffling is how the debris and acorn shells this large got past the filter. Filter fit on the right side is pretty good since a plastic flange goes between the pleats. The left side appears to have a looser fit with some gaps.
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I have an 2011 rx350 that had a cracked windshield. I got it replaced and ever since there has been a rattling down by the dash/windshield at the drivers side. Now the guys that installed it are very nice and have actually looked at it 3 times since but still nothing to negate the noise. I tried sticking a rag down between the dash and the glass but it hasn't totally gone away. It does appear to be worse in colder weather or when the car hasn't fully warmed up.
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I pressed the start button, foot on the brake, (like normal), and the engine revs but won't turn over. Here is the YouTube link of what is happening...
2012 Hyundai Elantra Limited Won't Start - YouTube
Calling the dealership in the morning.
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I recently purchased a 2011 hyundai elantra and i bought a aftermarket navigation. I connected everything how it should be (i think) and the navigation screen would not turn on but the buttons work and volume and everything else but the screen wouldnt turn on. I took it to a mechanic and he told me it was this strip that was burned. But it was working before he messed with it now the radio doesn't sound. Nothing works. Im trying to find the name of this part so i can buy a replacement.
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I find if i jump in the car and turn the key quickly to start it sputters but doesn't turn over. When i try again a second time its always ok.
Happens a lot after i fill my tank, seems to never give issues if i turn the key to the on position and give it a couple seconds till i start it.
I have an injen cold air intake, and magnaflow muffler don't know if those would contribute to the problem? Should i take it to hyundai and let them take a look.
I also notice when i start my car the rpm jumps to 2000 and then drops down, i run synthetic oil and Hyundai filters.
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