Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Steering Binding / Sticking Right On Center
Jan 17, 2014
Having this issue with the steering sticking right on center? Mine is starting to manifest this particular problem (at 15K miles). It is most notable after driving for an hour or so. At one point it got so bad that I had a hard time keeping the car going straight.
I had heard on different threads that some have had the steering column replaced to cure the problem. Although I shudder to think of my dealer going in to replace the column with a screwdriver and a spork.
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So I have a 2013 Elantra and I have noticed that after hanging up from calls from the Bluetooth using the Red Button on the steering wheel that is it becoming stuck. I can pull it back to its regular position and some times it will spring back with a slight click noise. Can the dealer fix the one button or will they need to replace the entire wheel?
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I had my vehicle in last week due to a sticking in my steering wheel. An alignment was completed, however the issues still persists. When driving at 60 mph+, and when having to correct the wheel, there is a slight stick in the wheel. On a side note, my CV joint already had to be replaced!
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My 'new to me' 01 Ex has 129k miles on it and the one problem is the steering. I read (all 34 pages of) the wander cure thread and I played with my steering box extensively over the last 3 weeks. The initial tightening really worked with the slack in the steering, as did adding air to the passenger front tire to even it out with the driver's side. But it did not cure everything. In fact, the tightening of the box revealed something else - the steering now exhibits what feels like binding. And now I must make minute corrections every second or two all the way down the road, even perfectly straight, flat roads. It's sorta driving me crazy(er) and my wife won't even consider driving it until it's fixed.
I was so caught up in diagnosing this problem that I completely missed that the steering wheel would not re-center itself after turns. My father noticed when he visited last weekend and tried to drive it but parked it after going around the block. If making a 90 degree turn, the wheel will maybe make it back to 45 degrees and stops. So you must manually turn the wheel back to center if you want to go straight.
So I've gone back and tried to loosen up the steering gears to start again, but now the gears seem tight regardless of how I adjust it.
I have already planned to replace the ball joints and get the alignment adjusted when I do the shocks and rear sway next week. Should i wait to see if the ball joints fix the problem or should i plan to replace the steering box at the same time? What say you all?
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After my steering wheel replaced I've noticed that new wheel is not centered. I was way too much to the right when driving straight, so I went back to dealer and ask him to fix it. He said that he fixed it and even recalibrated steering wheel (or something) and should be OK. So here is my question. The wheel is now a bit to much to the left (see picture). Do you think it is acceptable (within the specs) and it cannot be adjusted better? Should I go back and complain or I am just to much paranoiac.
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Ok try this. On your 2011-13 Elantra if your driving below 60 on backroads and the road slightly turns to the left or right when you get back to a straightaway does the wheel automatically center itself or will it stay turned in the direction you just slightly turned? My wheel stays turned in the direction of the turn and I have to manually move it back to go straight. I have a 2013 Elantra GLS Auto.
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I have a 2008 Elantra with 59,000 miles. When it is warm out (70 F+), the sterering wheel makes a binding noise (squeeking noise - it is hard to describe) when turning. It doesn't do this all the time and it is much more noticeable when it is warm out. The temps are usually mild. This is a recent problem as I haven't noticed it before.
Should I be concerned about this? I want to get it checked before the 60,000 mile mark in case this is a serious issue such as rack and pinion steering problems.
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Sporadically over the last few fill ups, my gas gauge has taken to remaining at full for nearly 50 miles despite me doing my regular in town driving with hills. Up until this, Emma would drop off 'F' after between 30 and 35 miles like clockwork but this latest round of stubborn behavior makes me wonder if the float is sticking at the top. It happened again tonight and despite me doing only 25.1 MPG, it still stayed at full until 47 miles after I reset the trip meter.
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2012 Elantra - 105,000 miles 6 speed transmission
Throttle seems to be sticking and causing engine to rev between shifts, and staying slightly on after I let off the gas
Engine continues to rev up uncontrollably for about 10 seconds after feathering the gas pedal (between shifts). If I floor the gas pedal and release it quickly, it closes the throttle and fixes the issue.
Thought it may be a sticky throttle body, sprayed a generous amount of Carb and Choke cleaner into throttle body...did NOT resolve the issue. Its a Drive by wire, so no throttle cable to blame or to clean.
Turns out, the accelerator pedal assembly it self, is not returning/springing back to "up" or closed position and is sticking during the first few degrees of travel. It is very dirty, and gold.
How to clean/lubricate this thing? Its plastic. Or should I just order the replacement? I hope the pedal isn't programmed to the car itself? shouldn't be...but you never know
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I have a 2013 Elantra GLS. I use a USB stick to listen to music. Sometimes it would reset the center console/radio if I leave the USB stick in, but this time it didn't turn back on.
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I noticed at 6000 miles our prius steering is hard to keep on center and seems to go L or R rather than straight. I run 38 psi but have tried 36 and didn't notice any diff. Tires are wearing good and dont think its alignment..
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Since I've had this car I randomly get a buzzing which I thought was coming from the centre console. It sometimes lasts 2 minutes, sometimes 15. Hunted it down last night and it sounds to be coming from the passenger side foot well. The only electrical component I can see up under there is whatever is in the photo.
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I just bought a used 2012 Elantra GLS with 24K miles. I tested almost every possible function of the car before I bought it however I didn't try out the 2 power outlets expecting them to both work on a car with only 24k miles.
Anyway, the center console outlet doesn't work. I'd like to check the fuse box first thing in the morning. I work night shift so I won't be able to get to it til then. Any other things I should look for?
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Suspension noise I am getting from my 2011 MD.
This noise occurs only over small shock type bumps IE, train tracks that are not smooth, those reflectors in the road, and the metal plates over construction projects. Any bump that forces the suspension over a small vertical or near vertical drop or rise of about one inch.
In my driveway I have a storm grate about an inch lower than the surrounding pavement and it rattles over this every day. Now the fun part.
The noise is ONLY when I hit such a bump with the right side of the car. The left side rolls over the same bumps smoothly and quietly.
This noise is also only present over the small type bumps discussed earlier. My dealer has a rough road that they use to test suspension noises and the car rolls down it silently. The problem also doesn't manifest itself over speed bumps.
The noise is still present while applying the brakes on which makes me doubt its a caliper float issue.
The strut brace and lower control arm/bushings on the right side have been replaced by the dealer under warranty but they can not seem to get to the root of this problem as both these replacements have had no effect.
From inside the car it is very difficult to pinpoint where the noise is coming from but it almost seems like the center of from suspension.
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13.5k, 2.2 Ecotec, Automatic
The MAF had to be replaced, while the car was at the dealer the power steering motor was replaced (recall). When I got the car back the steering motor (reman) was making a lot of noise and I took it back. This time the motor and the steering column were replaced. After a week I got the car back last night.
This morning I noticed the steering wheel is off center (~1/2 to 3/4") to the right. The car tracks straight with no pull to either side.
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I have a new 2 week old Prius 4. So far I love it. I've put about 600 miles on it. This past weekend I spent a decent amount of time on the freeway and noticed an issue with my steering. I'm pretty sure it is an alignment issue.
The car tracks straight. When I let go of the wheel the car goes dead straight but...the steering wheel is a bit off center turn slightly to the left. If I hold the wheel and turn the steering wheel right to exactly straight the car will go right. It's like they they aligned the car with the steering wheel slightly off center.
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My wife spilled some Coke onto the center console and now the Drive mode select sticks and when its freezing outside the switch becomes frozen. Any step by step instructions? I want to clean it out.
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I have a 2010 F250 King Ranch FX4. I have an odd problem that I am trying to get to the bottom of. We went on a 2,500 mile road trip last year and I noticed on the way home my steering wheel had worked it's way off center counter-clockwise at a perfect diagonal. I had gotten an alignment right before we left and it was perfect center at that point.
I took it back in when I got home and had a tire rotation and another alignment. Within a week the wheel was off again to the same degree, counter-clockwise at a perfect diagonal.
Two weeks ago... tired and annoyed of driving like this, I crawled under the truck and adjusted the steering wheel to center via the drag link adjustment. I tightened everything down tight and this lasted all of three days.
Wat would cause this? Tires are wearing normally, alignment checks out and it tracks straight. I do see some grease like leakage where the pitman arm meets the top of the drag link and again have some small grease where the drag link connect to the passenger side tire. I lifted the front end and tried to move/wiggle the tires and I have no movement... everything is solid. The truck never wanders when on the road... steering wheel is just off.
Truck only has 90k on it of highway miles and an easy life thus far. I am not hard on the truck.
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I have a 01 Chrysler Sebring 4D Sedan. I have been working on cars many years, never done tie rods. This my first attempt, I messed something up I believe. I replaced both inner tie rods and outer ends. I followed what I thought was correct procedure., counted turns on ends coming off. Installed new ones the same amount of turns. Before I did this the steering was fine. Now when I turn sharp to the right or left, like turning in to a driveway, I get an awful binding grinding noise, and I can feel it shimmy in the wheel. It will even stop the car going hard right. I can see evidence of rubbing on the CV boot closest to the wheel on the pass side. I assume I messed up somewhere with setting the steering when I installed the Tie rod ends to the wheel hubs.
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Over the past week its been pretty cold here in IL (hovering around 30 degrees). Car makes a binding noise when its cold, but only when its cold. Noise is VERY similar to this:
Is this my PS pump going out, the rack itself, or something suspension related? Fluid level is up to the Max and there are no leaks....
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I just put on headers and after running into the infamous rattle sound I found an additional issue. The steering linkage seems to be rubbing or binding on right hand turns. Any normal 90 degree right hand turn will prevent me from taking the wheel beyond a certain point. I have had to make wide swooping turns. I feel the steering wheel stop further progress turning to the right and it gets a heavy rattle feel in the steering wheel.
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