Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Started Fine But Wouldn't Shift Out Of Park
Nov 2, 2016
Went to start the car today and it started fine but wouldn't shift out of park, and the instrument panel lights were out. Got it towed to the dealer and they narrowed it down to a junction box or instrument panel cluster. They won't know until tomorrow what the problem is. What this might be?
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My 2013 Elantra won't shift out of park. I know that I should check fuses, but what fuses might be associated with this. (The brake lights are not affected)...
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My wife called today after arriving at work letting me know she was having trouble shifting the car from D(drive) to P(park). I know the Gear box is set up in a stepped configuration. Sometimes its smooth shifting up to park and other times its not.
2011 Elantra Gls
Silver w/tinted windows
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I don't know what is causing this but I bought a 2012 elantra last week (500 miles on it so far). Yesterday when I went to start my car the clicker wasn't opening or locking the doors so I had to use my key to open the door. When I got in my car would start but was "stuck" in park and I couldn't shift past park (yes I had my foot on the brake). After about 10 minutes it just randomly worked... Today I was driving to work stopped to get gas and as I was stopping I realized I couldn't shift passed neutral to put in park (I could go back and forth between drive and neutral). While this was going on my windows would not go up or down. Again after 10 minutes the problem seemed to fix itself. What could be causing this?
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I own a Elantra 2011 and I have a major problem. I cannot shift from PARK to DRIVE and my electric windows doesn't work either ! Everything else working fine and the car start normally !! The dealer cannot find the trouble and the car just have 19802 KM on it!!
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I have a 2009 Santa Fe and last night, out of the blue, the engine wouldn't start. The shift lever was stuck in park and the brake pedal was very stiff and wouldn't move much. I popped the cap off the shift lock and moved it to neutral at which time the car started without a problem. I could drive but shifting was difficult and the lever didn't really click into a gear. I noticed that when shifting gears. the indicator on the dash would change from N to D and to R in reverse but when I moved up to park, the indicator went blank and the lever locked up again and had be released manually. I also noticed when I got home, since my driveway is a slope, that when the car seemed to be in park is rolled down the driveway, so I had to engage the emergency brake.
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So I turned off my truck the other day, got out, and it started again on its own. Confused, I looked in my hand to see my key. I got back in, and tapped the brake thinking the command start had engaged, even though I did not have the remote with me. It continued to run. So I put the key back in the ignition, turned it to ON and back OFF. It still ran. I had to run inside for a half a minute so I left it running.
Came back and drove away with no issues. When I stopped again about 2 minutes later and shifted to PARK, the starter engaged making it's terrible 'hey stupid, I'm already running' sound. I tried shutting it OFF quickly but it still ran and made it's skinning crawling noise. So I quickly shifted back to DRIVE. All the gears worked fine but PARK and NEUTRAL had the starter engaging. I also could not shut the truck off from DRIVE as the key would not turn.
I drove over to a local garage and called them from the truck as I was effectively trapped in the truck with my foot on the brake, unable to shift to PARK or turn it OFF. No supporting staff. So I drove back to work where I had a co-worker remove the battery cable at which point I was able to shift to PARK and turn OFF the truck. I let it sit like that for about 10 minutes and haven't had a problem since.
What happened?? And for the record I can put gas in the tank and changed my own oil, but that is the extent of my vehicle knowledge.
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I have a 1994 F53 Chassis RV that has recently developed a transmission problem. The transmission has been working fine then one day I went to move the RV and I put the transmission into “D” and nothing happens. It feels like it is still in Neutral and there is a slight metal on metal sound like it is trying to engage. However if you the put the transmission in reverse it works fine.
I then put the transmission into “1” or “2” and the RV moves with no problems. Then once it is moving I can shift it into “D” and the transmission will act like normal and shift into 3<SUP>rd</SUP> and 4<SUP>th</SUP> gear. That is until I come to a stop again. Then it feels like the transmission goes back into “N”. I then can shift back into “1” or “2” and get the RV moving I can shift it back into “D” and everything works again.
I have checked the transmission fluid and it could use changed but the level was fine. I have read about the MLPS could that be causing this problem? I have read about testing the MLPS, but I am not sure which pin is which.
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My brother-in-law asked me about his 2010 Hyundai Santa Fe. It has an automatic transmission, that's where the problem is. Several times recently it doesn't want to go into reverse or park. Shifts fine, fluid fine, no smell or noises. Vehicle has about 68,000 miles on it.
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I have a 2007 Elantra with 138,000 miles. I never had any slipping or jerking or reverse issues in the past. I got into the car put it in reverse just fine then put it in drive and nothing happened, I put it in park and the car kept rolling like in neutral and started making a loud grinding noise. When I put the transmission in any other gear the noise stops but will not move and acts as if in neutral.
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I have a 2010 Lariat and it randomly gives me fits by not letting me shift out of park. This started yesterday and I want to know where to start looking so I don't get stranded in BFE! Its a center console shifter.
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I bought a 2010 V8 Explorer on Monday and aside from the apparent "known issue" with the hard 2-1 shift (which I'm trying to get it to "unlearn" by driving differently), it's a really nice truck.
When I shift into reverse it says "Park Aid On/Off" in the display, and sure enough, it beeps when I get close to something. That said, there aren't the normal "dots" in the bumper that I normally associate with backup sensors.
Everything works just fine with it, I just am a guy who likes to know how things work and I don't see anything on the outside that would indicate it's a parking sensor.
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So I drove my F150 to work as always, with no problems. I went to leave and it fired right up, but it wouldn't shift out of park. The emergency brake light was on even though the brake was not applied, the traction control light was on even though I wasn't moving, and the tire pressure warning light was on even though all tires are new and inflated properly. I removed the cables from the battery and brushed the contacts even though there was no grime on them, and when I went to start it, it just kept cranking without turning over. So I turned it to off and gave it one more shot and it fired right up, and drove like it was perfectly fine. Why this happened? I got 75k miles on it and have never had a problem...
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Everything was working fine until I started messing with camera settings in the service menu today . Now when I shift into reverse, it says "system not ready". Will not let me parallel park or reverse park now. I tried to reset the settings but maybe I don't know how to "save" settings.
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2012 Hyundai Elantra. Yesterday while I was sitting in traffic for only about 5 minutes I decided to place the shifter into park and take my foot off of the brake. When I shifted to park the ESC indicator came on and stayed on so I immediately put it back into drive!
This has never happened before. I pushed the button to turn off the ESC, the ESC Off indicator came on as it is supposed to but the ESC indicator stayed on. I pushed the button again to turn off the ESC and the ESC Off indicator went off but the ESC light stayed on.
Traffic started moving and the ESC indicator was still on. I pulled off of the road and turned the car off. When I started it again the ESC indicator went on momentarily and then went off and has stayed off since.
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I have a 2012 Elantra with about 90,000 km. Everything was running smoothly until this week I ran into quite a few problems.
First of all, my car shakes when in park or neutral. I think this may have something to do with the idle being out of sync, but honestly I don't know enough to judge it.
Second of all, my engine was replaced twice by the manufacturer about 7-8 months ago. Now, all of a sudden, it is shaking like crazy! I'll open up the hood while the car is on and the engine looks like it wants to jump out at me.
Third of all, my window just started making a grinding noise when I bring it up and down. There's a section of the window, in the middle, where it doesn't make a noise, but for the rest of it it sounds like everything is scratching. I presume that this may be the power window and that I'll have to get this replaced.
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It only really happens when the car has not been warmed up, like first thing in the morning. Aside from the noise, the car shifts and drives normally. Noise just developed, 28k on the car, it is a 2012 elantra. As I shift from P to R while backing out of my garage there is a metallic clink/ping as the transmission engages.
It is not a CLUNK sounds, it is deff more on the side of a metallic clink...
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1992 Buick Park Avenue, Base. For awhile now I've had trouble shifting into park from other gears. Sometimes, it'll flow right into park without trouble. Other times, I have to work it, to kind of baby it in. However, it simply will not shift into park from reverse. Period. If I'm in reverse and want to park, I have to go into drive, neutral, etc, and then try to move it into park.
A mechanic I know looked at the neutral safety switch and thought it could be causing the problem. We figured it wasn't in the steering column or the cable to the switch because if we disconnect the cable, you can slide that lever all day long. So I purchased a new neutral safety switch and had him install it, but the same problem is there. Actually, let me clarify: while it was in his garage, with the old switch, it would no longer go into park at all, regardless (kind of decided to just stop altogether). At least with the new switch we can baby it into park, but it is basically back to where it was last week. He mentioned it might be deeper in the transmission, but that's out of his league.
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I have a 2013 Hyundai Elantra with an automatic with the Tiptronic transmission. last week I went to put the transmission into Tiptronic mode and it would not go in. it like crunch to the right and would not shift gear up or down nor would the gear number appear on the digital dash.
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I have an Elantra 2012 sedan GL and last year i tried installing HID's. It worked for a whole but then it stopped after. I learned that it wasn't getting enough power so then yesterday I bought a wiring kit to be able to wire my HID to tap to the battery to get more power. Everything was fine till I got to work but when I had to leave work., there was an issue. Whenever i switch the gear from park to drive or reverse or neutral. My car seems to jerk. And when I'm driving and it changes gears, it also jerks. Kind of the same thing how if your driving a manual car and you change gears wrong. This happens when my lights are off. But when i turn them on it then stops. And when i turn it back of it doesn't do it anymore.
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I have a 2011 elantra a 6 speed manual and im trying to take off the shift knob and can't seem to do it....
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