So anytime I accelerate out of the 'Eco' mode, the car is very rough and loud! 2011 Elantra GLS. Stock. Haven't had it to the dealer yet to discuss. 24,000km. Other than that it's fine.
View 3 RepliesI have a noise problem on my dashboard ( or i hear like that) There is a sound which is really annoying when i accelerate especially on rough road.
Noise comes from dashboard in my Hyundai Elantra - YouTube
I have a 2012 elantra manual transmission. I noticed the eco mode but never found out if it really does anything. when I shift from 1st to 2nd at higher RPMs its rough. At other gears its ok but I feel like the gas pedal is weak sometimes. With a manual does the eco mode make that more difficult?
View 12 RepliesThis car has turned into a bad dream. When it first starts in runs well for a mile or so until it warms all the way up. Then it goes into starvation mode and won't accelerate. Maybe a cough or two then it runs fine for 10 or so seconds. And goes back to stumbling. Most times I have to pull over out of traffic and wait for it to so call catch again.
I have changed plugs, wires, coil rack & fuel pump module. Because someone else looked at it before I did, they erased stored codes. I have pulled 2 codes on 2 different occasions. The first was P0134 the second was P1166. Other times no codes were stored. I did notice that if I shut off ignition & restart it runs great for 10 or 15 seconds.
Mine hisses when accelerating, and there's no leaks.
View 25 RepliesI have a 2010 Elantra and I have been having problems accelerating in the last couple of months. Took it to a mechanic and they said it's definitely my transmission. I am at 51,118 miles and so I am still under warranty. The Hyundai dealership said the transmission needs to be completely replaced. How does this happen to a car that isn't that old and doesn't have many miles on it? A factory defect?
The dealership, being a dealership tried to get me to do a bunch of other stuff to my car and I wanted to ask all of you about one of them. They said my battery is going to die soon. I guess it's at 236 (amps?) and should be at 550 (according to the dealership, that's where it should be). Is that right? I don't know enough about cars to know whether this is right and don't tend to trust dealerships.
I started to realize something very weird in my car. While in drive from a stop I would accelerate and the car doesn't seem to shift up when its suppose too. I know that my car shifts around 2.1k RPM smoothly into second gear but now it would go all the way up to 3K RPM and slams into second gear which is really weird. Sometimes it does this problem and sometimes it doesn't. I would say 70% it would slam into gear. Not only does it slam but it would seem like this car does not want to shift at the proper rpm even when i foot is on the gas pedal very lightly.
Once I got home I tried some stop and goes and see if the problem persist. It still did. Then I tried doing shiftronic and from first gear once the line touches 2k RPM i shift up and yet it would still lag and the needle would go up to 3K RPM once again. This seems like a very bad problem especially MPG wise. I am still under warranty, I think because I've only swap the air filter with a drop in K&N and just plasti dipped my wheels and such.
2011 Elantra 86k ... Ever since I bought my car in 2013 I noticed when I would accelerate on the freeway, my battery light would flick on for a second, then go away when I would let off the pedal. Not every time, though which made me not think much of it. well recently my car would die if I left it sitting for a day. I assumed it was the battery so I got a new one. everything was fine until I woke up one morning and my car was dead again. so I looked up my problem online and nearly everywhere said it was probably because of a bad alternator, which also explained why the battery light would come on when I accelerated. so I took it to a mechanic and he tested it and said it was testing low. So 425 dollars later it was fixed. Haven't seen the battery light come on when I accelerate anymore.
This morning around 6am my neighbor texted me and said my tail lights and head lights were on. this is impossible because we had been out front last night and we would have noticed this then and I didn't drive anywhere else after that. Why would my lights be coming on by themselves? I've already spent 180 on a new battery and 425 on a new alternator and this whole time it was because my lights had been turning on by themselves??
So I have heard that, it is only good to turn on the ECO mode when you are driving in the city or town. When you drive onto highway, you should turn ECO off. Any good explanation of what is the best method of using the ECO button?
View 26 RepliesI have had my 2011 Elantra limited since April. I always have the ECO mode turned on. The light fluctuates when driving as I excepted to. I know the actual mode/light doesn't really do anything, but in the last months or so, it will light up shortly after starting the car and work normal but then decide to not light and never come back on until the car is restarted. I have checked numerous times and the ECO mode is ON.
View 10 RepliesI just bought a 2012 Hyundai Elantra GLS (Canadian model) with 44k km. When I first test drove the car, the dealer (Honda) had the car warmed up and ready to go. As a result, I didn't notice the loud engine or anything. All I noticed is the engine was louder on acceleration versus my 2008 accord. I already bought the car but today I asked to test drive the car again (I'm excited) and noticed a loud ticking on startup? I asked the Honda dealer what was wrong and they simply said Hyundais are louder than Hondas. My 2008 accord has a ticking engine already but Honda is rebuilding the engine. This car is ticking louder than my 2008 accord. However, the car does quiet down when the engine is warm.
View 2 RepliesI have driven 25,xxx miles on my 2010 Prius. Three times during the last thousand miles I have experienced very loud and scary engine noises during start up. The car had sat for at least ten hours outside in 20-30 degree weather.
I took the car into the dealership for an oil change and my service advisor told me that Toyota was aware of the problem and the noise was not coming from the engine- but a device that mates the ICE with the electric engine. He told me that although it was a loud and dangerous sounding noise, it was not something that would harm my motor. I asked that the noise be logged into my service record.
I hadn't driven my car for nearly a month and when I returned I noticed a rather loud "clunking" noise when moving the A/T out of park. The sound is coming from the steering column and is quite pronounced. Is it normal?
I am also hearing a sound something like a bad wheel-bearing while accelerating that I never heard before. It sounds like it's coming from the front end of the car.
When I start my car I hear this very loud noise. I think it is coming from the exhaust but not sure. This only happens when the car is cold(not weather) and after a few minutes the noise is gone. I have aftermarket lowering springs on the car, do you think that caused the problem?(I'm thinking no)...
View 4 RepliesI just purchased my new Elantra 2 weeks ago. A few days later, just after I started it first thing in the morning, it began making a loud flapping noise (seemed to be coming from under the hood). It's been doing it every morning since. The dealership said they couldn't hear anything unusual (after keeping it overnight, then starting it up first thing the next morning).
View 1 RepliesMy car has 63 000 km and engine is making loud knocking noise all the time. Dealer took a quick look and he asked head office. Now he wants to run some tests to see which valve is bad. He's hesitating between repairing or replacing the engine. I'm really disappointed of Hyundai quality. I really hope that I get new engine instead of poor repair job.
View 17 RepliesPicked up my brand new 2013 Elantra 2 nights ago. 51 Km's on it when I drove it off the lot. Immediately noticed it was making a very loud noise whenever I hit any road bumps, potholes, sewers, train tracks, etc.
I can't tell if it is coming from the front, or back of the car. Many of the threads on here seem to be talking about a common rear shocks issue? Also read a lot about faulty struts? Swaybar?
After replacing the OEM tires at 25,000 I bought new tires at Discount Tire. Road noise seems louder. Would under coating work and is undercoating recommended by Hyundai?
View 18 RepliesI have 1,600 miles on my elantra and this sound just started. On initial starting, when the engine is cold, there's this loud low pitch then high pitch sound. It only lasts for 1.5 seconds but it's loud. What could it be?
View 3 RepliesMy 2012 Elantra with 10,000 km sounded like the rear suspension was bottoming out with a loud clunk whenever I went over a bad bump or heave in the road. It was the right rear shock, which was replaced under warranty. The car handled well so it wasn't as if the damping had disappeared. About 500 km later the left rear shock had to be replaced under warranty as the loud clunking as if the suspension was bottoming out returned. I'm not sure of the shock manufacturer Hyundai is using, but they obviously had/have a quality control problem or the shocks just aren't up to the job. I live in the country and drive a lot of secondary roads, but have never had shocks go like this before. Something in the internal hydraulic value circuit is going wrong.
View 1829 RepliesI have a 2012 Elantra with 25k miles and after the car sits for about 2 hours, there is a loud clattering noise coming from the exhaust when running. Mainly when I first start it up and take off down the road. After about 2 mins of driving, it's a lot quieter.
Anyways, I raised it up a bit today and everything looks normal, but using a mallet, I knocked all over the exhaust a bit and it all seems to make a rattle noise. Mine started about 1 month ago.