Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Road Vibrations In Pedal / Floor
Jan 16, 2013
Is it normal to experience road vibrations in the pedal and floor? I've owned my car for about a month now (it's a used 2011) and it has brand new tires on it, but the past week or two it seems these road vibrations have worsened.. it's like I can feel the texture of the road on my feet. If I reach a freshly paved area it goes away like magic.
Is this indicative of a problem that I could have the dealer investigate? Or is this a "characteristic" of this car? I came from a 97 Corolla, with the exact same tires on it, and it did not have this problem at all. Then again, it was also much much quieter going over bumps too...
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It could be the ECS kicking in or something but here's what I feel..... when hitting a rough patch of road at I'd say 25 miles an hour or greater and applying the brake over that rough patch of road for what ever reason, my foot is on brake pedal normal and it feels like the pedal gets ultra firm (opposite of pedal diving to floor if you lost brakes) or the feeling is like the brake pedal is pushing back against me, like the car is taking the brakes off on me for a brief second.....its a weird feeling and only happens on rough road when I'm at speed and have to hit brakes, all other braking times it doesn't do this
Good example is coming to a stop at a certain stop light that's got choppy asphalt right at the stop light line.....light turns yellow and I'm at speed and have to brake to stop for the light, it hit the rumbly road and feels like the pedal doesn't want me to brake and gets really firm, I stop and all, but then again makes me worry, because if I had to really stop fast and hard......would I ???
No alarm or alert lights come on, so I don't know ....
Car's got 8,000 miles on the clock ....
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I have noticed that if I push gas pedal while turning the corner, especially if starting to go uphill, there is significant vibration felt in the gas pedal. It happens every time, as I use the same road each day, for 6 months now. I recently had a rental prius for a weeks, and had the same experience, although not as pronounced as my car.
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What could possibly be wrong with my new 2012 Elentra GLS. When i stop at red lights or at stop signs the car starts to shake a bit. The vibrations can be felt in the cabin specially around the dash board area. I wouldn't have noticed it if it was same on all stops, however, it seems intermittent. The car would be dead quite and motion less on one red light while on the other I can clearly feel the vibrations. I have taken it up with the dealership and mechanics there are clueless about it. One reason given was that it could be the inline 4 engine causing that vibration, or, a car system kicking in e.g. air con. that would cause stress on the engine.. i frankly thought it could be caused due to clutch not engaging properly..
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I have been working on my 01 Elantra for 2 days now. My problem is that I have absolutely no brake pedal at all, it just goes right to the floor. and this is only when the car is running, when it is off I give it a quick pump and i have a nice firm pedal. I installed a new master cylinder, bench bled it and all that jazz. I replaced the rear brakes and a wheel cylinder, I have also bled the brakes multiple times, and mutliple ways. bled the master while on the car and all the brakes while the car is off and while it is running. I dont know what else could be wrong with this. I looked at all the lines and there are no wet spots, no hoses are swelling up. everything looks top notch...i just have no brakes why.
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I am new to Hyundai. I just bought a barely used 2011 Elantra GL Sedan - Auto. I notice that the ride is absolutely terrible - especially the rear which has from what I understand torsion bar suspension. (Didn't we stop using those on WWII Jeeps) Anyway I digress.
I notice in city any pot hole is jarring in the front and hoppy in the back. On the highway I feel like the back end gets air any time I hit a moderate pump at speeds above 90kmh (55mph). I noticed what others have noticed too, slight fishtailing or rear vibrations when braking.
Is there an issue that I'm unaware of - is this normal or is there something broken/loose. I push on the rear like I would test a normal suspension and it doesn't bounce more than once but if I hit a bump while driving it bounces three or four times?
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Working on a 2002 Hyundai Elantra GT. 4 disc, no ABS. Problem is the brake pedal goes to the floor without much force. I bled all 4 lines, but no improvement. Rigid lines from the brake master cylinder to the rear wheels were very corroded, so I ran new lines. The old ones pretty much fell apart when I took them off the car. I also replaced the brake master cylinder. I tried to bleed the brakes again, but couldn't get much (if any) fluid pressure at any of the wheels. Yes, I found a couple leaks at the junction points for the rigid lines, but I re-flanged those connections and got rid of all the leaks. Still no real pressure when trying to bleed.
So, I tried a second, then a third master cylinder with a new attached resevoir. No improvement. I bench bled the snot out of this third master cylinder because the symptoms clearly suggest air was likely trapped somewhere in the system. I used a wood dowel to fully actuate the cylinder many times after all the air had been released while I had short clear hoses running from the master cylinder outlets into a little plastic cup filled with clean brake fluid. I wanted to make sure there was no way air could be in the MC, and no air drawn back in when I released the wood dowel.
Next, I quickly capped off the MC outlets and connected a hose to each brake line individually where they normally screw into the MC. I then let clear fluid drain through each line until it was spilling out clear of each caliper bleeder with no air bubbles. So, no lines are kinked, clogged, or contain air.
I took every precaution to keep air out of the system, yet when I push the brake pedal, there is still virtually no real pressure generated by the MC. The power booster rod is shoving the master cylinder in as it should. I don't think there's any problem with the power booster.
I've used gravity bleeding, manual "push & hold the brake pedal" bleeding, vacuum bleeding, and I'm certain there is no air in the lines or calipers. Still no significant pressure coming from the MC when I push & hold the brake pedal to the floor. It takes maybe 20-25 pounds of foot pressure, but always goes completely to the floor with all the bleeders closed. If the pedal is held to the floor, fluid slowly seeps from the bleeders. I'm used to it spraying when doing this on a healthy brake system.
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So for reason irrelevant, at about 500 miles on the odometer, I drove the Prius quite hard the past couple of days. In retrospect, a poor decision as I am now all kinds of concerned as to what kind of damage I may have done. I know break-in is said to be 600 miles so I was below that. I'll describe my 'hard' driving as heavy acceleration, often pedal to the floor, a few hard stops and umm excessive speed (we'll leave that up to interpretation). So I'm just stressing about it now.
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After replacing the OEM tires at 25,000 I bought new tires at Discount Tire. Road noise seems louder. Would under coating work and is undercoating recommended by Hyundai?
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Okay I'm also having issues with vibrations on the floor board. I replaced the carrier bearing last week and not sure if correctly done or maybe I didn't get the splines in the exact order they came out in but the vibration is still there if not worse. I was thinking I could order a new rear drive shaft for around 350.00? would it matter how it was installed?
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My 2012 Elantra with 10,000 km sounded like the rear suspension was bottoming out with a loud clunk whenever I went over a bad bump or heave in the road. It was the right rear shock, which was replaced under warranty. The car handled well so it wasn't as if the damping had disappeared. About 500 km later the left rear shock had to be replaced under warranty as the loud clunking as if the suspension was bottoming out returned. I'm not sure of the shock manufacturer Hyundai is using, but they obviously had/have a quality control problem or the shocks just aren't up to the job. I live in the country and drive a lot of secondary roads, but have never had shocks go like this before. Something in the internal hydraulic value circuit is going wrong.
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I currently own a 2016 Elantra Limited and I'm at my wits end with the amount of road noise and harshness of the ride. I have already got rid of the Hankook tires and replaced them with Pirelli P7 Cinturato as many on this forum have suggested. I also replaced my rear shocks with KYBs. While both had a small effect on both the noise and harshness this car is still intolerable from a noise and harshness standpoint. When going over any bumps or joints in the road it seems as the suspension amplifies the bumps making them feel and sound bigger than they actually are.
It seems impossible that such a new vehicle can ride like this, but apparently it's a characteristic of the poorly designed suspension. When driving I can't believe how terrible the car is in this regard.
So replacing 17" rims with 15" or 16" makes noticeable difference? Or is this a hopeless case?
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I have a noise problem on my dashboard ( or i hear like that) There is a sound which is really annoying when i accelerate especially on rough road.
Noise comes from dashboard in my Hyundai Elantra - YouTube
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I've noticed there's a bit more road noise in my Elantra in comparison to other competitor cars, and ever since I installed new speakers in the car with much more bass, the doors have been rattling quite a bit.
Sound deadening on the Elantra between the doors? I'm thinking of doing it but I'm not sure if there's enough space for foam or whatever would work best.
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4 cylinder car engine that doesn't shake like a tractor at idle ? I've got a 3 cylinder tractor that idles smoother.
I like my Elantra except for the tire/road noise and the intermittent BAD vibration at idle. It shakes the whole car. Odd that it doesn't do it all the time. AC seems to make it worse......sometimes. I think I can fix the road noise with different tires but fear that the dealer is going to say:" Nothing wrong. They all shake like that at idle."
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My wife and I bought a 2014 Elantra with 30,000 miles on it. This is our first Hyundai and the car runs great, but the only issue I have is that whenever I go over a large bump in the road, the front suspension clunks and feels like it's coming apart. Smaller bumps or imperfections in the road are okay and the car runs smoothly over those, but the larger bumps and potholes produce an unreassuring clunk.
We've never owned a Hyundai before and we really like the car, but I was wondering if this is normal for the Elantra and if others experience this. I brought the car to the dealer and they checked everything out. They said all was fine and that it was normal. Is it?
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Starting yesterday I noticed that I could hear a sloshing sound when I turn the car. It sounds like pouring water. After some driving around my neighborhood I've found that I hear the sloshing sound ONLY when the AC is on and when I turn left. It also has a sizzle sound that reminds me of dropping bacon in a hot pan.
I laid down in the floor and looked up under the dash. It looks like there's a motor and it's leaking water. That doesn't sound like a motor should be wet...The motor type thing appears to be a cylinder and says Bosch GM-M on it along with some numbers.
The carpet mat in the floor is getting a bit wet as well so that leads me to believe that something under there is leaking water and I can assume that it's leaking onto something hot creating the sizzle sound.
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A friend of mine recently had a VWR intake installed in his R along with HPA dogbone mount. After the installation he noticed a lot of vibration in his brake pedal. He then had the dogbone mount removed and the stock put back in thinking that the mount was causing the problem. After doing that he still had the vibrations in his brake pedal. He then brought the vehicle back to the dealership who did the install for him. They couldn't find what was causing the problem. He later found out that his VWR intake was resting directly on top of the brake reservoir. Noticed vibrations in the brake pedal or notice that it is resting on top of brake reservoir? Can his intake be missing a bracket or installed improperly?
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I took the car into the dealership to check an odd noise that comes from the front of the car every time I pass over speed bump or road holes.
They say I have to replace the steering rack. Can it be fixed or have to be changed anyway?
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Bought a brand new 2016 Elantra GLS last week. I realized that the car pulls back when gas pedal is let off and I let it coast from 50 km/h to 40 km/h.
It feels like the car is braking on its own at 40 km/h.
I asked my sales guy on the phone and he said he consulted the technician who said its just normal Engine Break-in period.
Should I believe that? or should I take the car in?
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I have a question about the bleeding the brake? When I washed my E, I usually spray the wheel and the brake part. I don't know it is a good idea or not. Recently, I felt like I have to step further on the brake pedal to apply the brake.
The force is there and Brake assist is still in effect if I step fast enough. I just felt like the brake pedal is spongy. My E is on 36k right now. Do you think wash the wheel often will cause the problem to brake line?
I have confirmed that my Gf's Elantra is easy and ease to brake than mine. At the mean time, her brake fluid is darker than mine. My brake fluid is full and clear. Maybe I should not wash the wheel more often. Or maybe I get OCD too much?
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