Elantra MD (2010-15) :: RPM Shoots Up On Incline
Apr 17, 2014
I like to keep my RPM at 2K while driving on the highway and always drive 62-63 mph. But when there is a slope the rpm instantly changes to 2.5K or higher. At first I thought it was downshifting. But when I slid the clutch to the right I still saw it was at the 6th gear. If I need to bring the RPM back to 2K the speed has to be reduced to around 45 mph which is not safe. I wouldn't mind the higher RPM for short stretches except the horrible ride noise (like a sports car). The surprising thing is the behavior is not consistent. Sometimes it keeps the lower rpm even on an incline. Is this the natural behavior of this car) none of my previous cars with bigger cylinders used to do this).
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2014 GT ... I'm hearing some type of noise whenever I reach an incline, accelerate or turn the car occasionally. To get a mental picture, I would imagine it sounding like a loose screw rolling to and fro inside the rear drivers side door or backseat. I've looked inside the car and don't see anything.
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Having problem with the rear valance being too low? I have a very steep driveway and last week hit the approach at a weird angle, the rear corner caught on the drive and popped the panel out on the lower side. I was able to pop it back into place without any damage but this is something to be aware of... I wonder if the Nissan Leaf will have more ground clearance? That will be the new stable mate for the Prius.
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I just drove my Prius through 8-10 inches of heavy wet snow. The car did amazingly well. At times my traction control light was on when trying to get up an incline until the car got going. Then when I got home I stopped in my driveway for the garage door to open and started into the garage. The car was stuck, but then the light came on and the car climbed the driveway in about 10-15 seconds and made it in the garage. I then noticed a smell like burning tires. Maybe it was the tires from spinning. I hope that I didn't hurt my transmission or another component. Does the Prius protect itself if it is stuck and the traction control light is on from overheating something? I think I recall that the 2nd generation Prius would not allow for wheel spin to protect the traction battery.
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Isn't it suppose to automatically stop? Every time I pump gas at any station gas will shoot out right when it tops off. What could be the reason for this?
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So my sister bought a 2007 Camry last year since she was impressed with the reliability of the 3rd gen Camrys we've been driving for the last decade. It's been a good car for the last six months but she's on the verge of selling it because of sudden transmission issues on top of the oil consumption problems that seem to be commonplace with this generation of 2.4L.
She says that her tach sometimes shoots up to about 3200 RPM when she taps the brakes going downhill and occasionally it feels like she's hitting pools of water on the highway. She also described hesitation followed by an extremely hard shift when braking more suddenly, such as avoiding people turning in front of her.
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Vehicle : 2005 Five Hundred (220,000 miles)
Symptom : Car surges (lurches or RPM shoots up to 1500-2000) when outside temperature is 75+ F and ONLY when A/C is on. In addition, when outside temp 80+F, A/C occasionally not as cool, and engine temp goes to HOT (nearly overheating. Shutting off A/C gets engine temp back to normal and surging issue goes away. Less frequently, car's RPM drops to nearly stalling and on a couple occasions the car actually stalled. Symptoms began around 100,000 miles. Lastly, this happens ONLY when at idle (usually in gear) or when coming to a stop or driving slowly, like in a parking lot.
Corrective steps taken to date: - Throttle body cleaned by dealer mechanic (I'm not 100% sure it was a thorough job.) - Thermostat changed. - A/C recharged. - Belts & fans checked - OK. - Engine computer reset (?) - battery disconnected by mechanic for 30+ minutes to "reset" computer.
This has been going on for at least 3 years now. I've been to my Ford dealer and an independent mechanic's shop numerous times for this. The dealer was never able to reproduce the problem. The other mechanic finally experienced the surging. Oddly enough, after each visit to the shop, the car seems fine for the day and then the symptoms begin to return in full force!
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My lovely little 99 Forester was running fine up until about 6 weeks ago. Now it has always burned oil and my dealership gave the the run around saying it was "normal". Fine, so I've driven around with quarts of oil in my car for the last 8 years, and I dump a quart in every 500 miles. Every time I bring it into for oil changes them I've told them it burns oil.So 6 weeks ago, I start the car and no heat. The temp gauge shoots up to H and then the heat kicks on and the temp gauge goes immediately back down to N. I call the dealership - they say the thermostat is sticking and I'm find to drive it - I get an appt for 2 weeks later.
2 weeks later, car is in the shop and I'm told because I've been driving the car and its been overheating the headgasket is cracked. So I pay the $1,700 to repair it and replace the timing belt and temp gauge.I pick up the car and it is running WORSE than it was when I brought it in with the cracked headgasket and sticking temperature gauge. I call the dealership from the traffic signal up the road. They schedule another appt for a week later.
Week later I bring the car in and the oil light blinks on as I'm driving car into their driveway. Get a call the next day saying I need a new shortblock and it will be $3,000.I meet with dealership and tell them 1) they should have checked the engine/cylinders when they replaced the headgasket and 2) I'm not repaying them to do the headgaskets twice basically.
So they tell me they are crediting me for the headgasket repair job. And get this - the price is $3,000. It actually is $5,000, but they are crediting the headgasket repair job to that.I'm just disguisted and furious at this point. Car has 140,000 miles, and I'm really anal about changing the oil every 3,000 miles - despite the fact since 12,000 miles the car has been having 6 new quarts of oil dumped into it between changes.They are telling me "its my fault" the cylinders are bad because I allowed the engine to run repeatedly overheated.
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Just purchased a beautiful 2007 ES 350. Love it but when I start it first thing in the morning, the idles shoots to 1800 for a second then up to 2000 for about 10 seconds then slowly comes down to 600ish. Also, during this "1800 and 2000" time, the oil maintenance light comes for a few seconds. Oil was changed just prior to purchase. Car has 100k and rides immaculate- 25.5 mpg mixed.
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Windows just started fogging up over here in New York. So I went to turn on the deforst and I noticed that ten minutes went by and it didn't defrost the rear window whatsoever.
Seems like power is going to it because when I hit the defrost button the rpm shoots down for a second. I also checked the fuse and it's fine. The thing that's getting to me is I had my windows tinted a couple months back and I'm thinking they might of done something.
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With summer heating up so is the engine. Temp stays normal at freeway speeds but as soon as I hit stop and go traffic it shoots up. Water pump is two years old. I flushed the radiator and didn't get much gunk out. Both fans are running when the AC is on. If I shut the car off but leave the key on the fans do not run when the car is not. I can't remember if they used to or not.
2001 Pontiac Grand Prix 3.1
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I've switched the fuel pump on this car more than once and made sure the fuel line isn't crimped yet it still hesitates. Also, the temp. shoots up when idling and appears to need either a fan or temp. switch?
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Here's the situation -- 2009 Camry, 32,000 mi. No recalls on record for its VIN. Parked in parking lot and preparing to leave. NOTE: At no time does my foot touch the gas pedal. OK...Foot on brake. Start engine, shift to reverse and back up under idle power. Turn wheel to align for departure and stop. Foot still on brake; shift into drive. Uncommanded (by me) engine RPM shoots up! Now hard on brake to stop forward lurch while simultaneously shifting to neutral. Engine RPM now screaming. Shut off ignition. Again, no touching of gas petal in this whole process. Turn the car back on and all it normal All has been normal for a month. Can't get the incident to repeat. No "check engine" lights at any time. Car operates perfectly.
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So i start my car up drive about fifty feet and my temp gauge shoots all the way up, check engine light comes on and coolant light keeps going off......What is wrong with my car?
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I purchased a second used 2006 GS300 from an ex colleague.
I've put about 5,000KM on the car, it currently has 195,000KM.
The car is/was mechanically great, until this week when I had some cooling issues..
First sign of problems was when I noticed steam bubbles in the expansion tank after the engine was turned off. I was actually filling up with oil as the oil warning light came on - 2nd time in 5000km but I guess that's normal for a car of this performance, size and age. I hadn't noticed overheating sings at this point but I remember fans being generally noisy (In SA it's in the height of summer so I didn't think much of it).
Temperature seems to be rock solid in the middle of the gauge, something I noticed as it gets very hot here and traffic is sometimes quite bad.
The next day I had been driving about 15 minutes on the motorway and I noticed the temperature gauge was suddenly in the red. I pulled over, noticed expansion was empty and filled. Decided to carry on another 5 mins as I had 2 small kids in the car and it's not a safe place to be (side of the motorway).
I finally found the radiator cap after I was recovered home and filled up with water (appeared to be very empty).
Next day little loss in expansion tank, low miles driven.
Next day needed to drive out a little further, about 50KM later the temp gauge started flipping hot then in the middle, hot then middle and then the engine warning light came on and the stability control light came on!
I was carrying water so filled up quite a lot of water again and the car started up perfectly and I returned home.
Since then I've been trying to investigate the problem, I will bullet point finding...
no obvious leaks
no oil in water / water in oil
no apparent general overheating (except the 2 times with water loss)
AC and heating working perfectly
no performance loss
driving lightly, up to temp no steam bubbles in tank w/ engine off
driving heavy at working temp leads to steam bubbles even when off
replaced radiator cap - no change
Radiator cap off and engine running cold, small water movement with a light sucking/bubbling - seems like air is sucked in every 10 seconds or so (very small volume of air into a tine whirlpool then air bubbles back). This I paid attention to, it settled down when engine heated up. Revving engine shoots water out of radiator - noticed when trying to get temperature up, I believe this is just the pump spinning up and normal.
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2007 Honda Odyssey. 105,000. Temperature about 0. 6 hour drive. About 15 minutes from destination, no heat, car starts blowing cold air. Temperature gauge still registers in normal range. Arrive at destination. Later that night, drove about 15 minutes to local ER, and drove back from ER about 2 hours later. No heat, but car otherwise fine. Next day (happened to be Christmas Day), begin drive home. Drive a little more than 15 minutes (about a minute passed the hospital), stopped at a stop light. Car stalls and dies. Restarts, but immediately temperature gauge shoots way paste "H" in a bad way.
Over the next day, local mechanic (in Petoskey MI) checks car, says it is low two gallons of coolant. He says radiator leaks, but he has no radiators there. Everything else works fine, and he says it is safe to drive back to Chicago, as long as I stop to check coolant. Drive home to Chicago, no leakage. Everything works fine. Get home, take car to local Honda dealer. They do "pressure test." Find no leak. Head Gaskets are fine. They see evidence of massive coolant leak (dried coolant all over catalytic converter closest to radiator, and over lower portion of radiator) but find no leak, and coolant level is fine. No sign of any leaks at top of radiator. So, what gives? Car is since running fine, no leaks. Everything works. Still driving in extreme weather in Chicago. Coolant level normal.
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1998 f150 4.6 4x4 auto 180k .... Runs 100% other than a strange and inconsistent overheating issue.
On cold startup truck will warm up. Then the temp gauge drops to practically 0. After 15-20 seconds gauge shoots up to max and then falls back to normal after 15-20 seconds. Then it'll go back to driving normally. At some point it pukes.
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My F250 with V10 has developed an overheating problem. While driving, the temp gauge suddenly shoots to max, and the truck goes into limp mode. Turning off the truck and ignition, waiting a few minutes, and all seems to be well again - sometimes for only a minute, sometimes for several days. No steam leaking, the water in the reservoir seems to be normal temperature, the radiator is not overly hot, and the AC keeps on blowing ice cold. Me thinks it is not really overheating, it just thinks it is. So where to start? Change the temp sensor first, or the thermostat? It seems the hoses are fairly firm, I don't believe they are collapsing from suction.
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I just bought this car and if I am on a incline and take my foot off the gas it rolls backward as if it a Manual transmission and it is not. I am being told this is normal because of low rpms.
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my power trunk normally works fine when level. When parked on an incline it stutters/slips going up and have to manually close . Sounds like a gear slipping in a ratchet.
Works completely fine on level surface. Normal?
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I own a 2004 Camry LE with the 2.4L engine and 117,800 miles. When driving to work the other day, the engine died just as I started to put an increased load on it (while going up an incline). The check engine light came on and I was able to coast to the shoulder where I was almost immediately able to restart the vehicle. I proceeded to work without further incident. When driving the vehicle home, I stopped at a store. When I restarted it, this time the light was extinguished. The next day I drove the vehicle again and as I accelerated from a stoplight the engine died again with the light once again lit. I purchased an OBD-II diagnostic tool, connected it to the car while it was running, and got the following codes:
P0010: Camshaft Position "A" Actuator Circuit Bank 1
P2112: Throttle Actuator Control System - Stuck Closed
After doing some research, I came across a 2005 service bulletin [URL] .... which called for replacement of the throttle body assembly and the throttle body hose if any of several codes, including the P112 code, appeared.
So, is the throttle body assembly (which, unfortunately, includes the sensor) the most likely culprit? If I start the car and depress the accelerator pedal, it seems to rev up normally and respond promptly. It just has this tendency to quit running at the most disconcerting moments (thus my tendency to favor a new OEM assembly as opposed to a used or rebuilt one). Or is the problem likely related to something else, such as the variable valve timing system?
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