Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Power Loss For A Second / Car Shaking With Grumbling Sound
Jul 13, 2014
My 2014 Elantra Limited Automatic 1.8 has just developed a problem tonight. I was backing up my driveway, when the car began shaking, making a grumbling sound, and felt like it lost power for a second. I pulled out of my driveway and tried backing up again about 5 more times, and it kept on repeating the problem. The car was leaking what appeared to be a clear fluid which stained the garage floor. It drives fine going forward, and only has 4,000 miles.
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Tonight it was a perfect 72 degrees and I had to run over to a friend's house and pick up my backpack as I didn't feel like riding my bike the ten miles home with that thing on my back. As I usually do when it's nice outside, I opened both front windows and the sunroof and immediately noticed a mid-level pitch grinding noise that comes and goes but is mostly noticeable at low speeds. Initially I thought it was the brakes dragging but it doesn't change with a brake application so I'm guessing it's the front wheel bearings. I'm calling the dealer in the morning to set up a service appointment.
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I own a 2010 ford f150 that make a grumbling sound when i turn. the dealeship has replaced the clutches for the limited slip rear end 2 times now and it is happening again. they told me that the ford engineers are working on the problem but they do not have a fix for it yet. So they told me to just drive it with the positive traction engaged until they get a fix for it. Not exactly the answer I was looking for.
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I've been having a problem over the past month with my base 2014 Elantra (33k miles). Sometimes when I go to start the car there is a complete loss of electrical power. One of a couple of scenarios will occur:
1) Key Fob will not unlock/lock doors:
*There is no power to anything (no dash lights, interior lights, car won't crank).
2) Key Fob will unlock/lock doors:
* Either all interior lights will be on and when I attempt to crank everything shuts off (no dash lights, interior lights, etc)
* Or Clock and radio are reset, car starts fine
* The battery checks out as far as voltage/charge.
* There are no visible fuse issues.
* There are no check engine lights.
I have had it in the dealer the past 4 days and they haven't been able to reproduce the issue. So far I have been able to eventually get it to start by opening and shutting doors, which would lead me to believe it is a loose connection somewhere, but again the dealer hasn't been able to diagnose anything.
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Having issues with a 2014 shutting down. Was at a stop light the other day and car completely lost power and shut down. When this happened oil, engine, and battery light came on. Once I parked car and turned off, it restarted. The dealership acted like I had no idea what I was talking about and would like to have some information when I take it back to have this problem corrected the car is not even 2 years old and has 30,000 miles on it.
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My BMW 325i started shaking and lost a lot of power and the check engine light turned on. Now I have been driving it like that to and from work. I can't get on the freeway since it doesn't go over 45 mph. I really need to get it fixed asap. It also doesn't accelerate like it used to. It shakes all the time but mostly when I am stopped at a red light or when I try to go over 40mph.
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I have a 2000 Excursion 7.3, 6 position tune, and exhaust as far as mods (on truck when bought). Last couple of weeks I get no power while on the throttle, foot on the gas and the whole truck shakes at higher speeds - 40mph and above. At first it wouldn't go above 60 or so, would hit the gas and Rpms would just stop not be able to generate any further power. Changed the IPR, ICP, and CPS.
I still get the high/low range ICP codes, P1280, P1281. First night the IPR was changed I got it up to 90mph and thought it was all solved but got a little shake right at the top and I let off the gas. Next day back to square one and has seemed to get progressively worse, almost wasn't able to make it up a hill by my house not even going 20mph, but it's like intermittent. I have a scan tool, here is at idle and at around 60mph ....
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I've got a 2000 F-250 with a 7.3. The other day I was driving down the road and it lost power and my foot almost went to the floor. I was at the bottom of a hill when it did this and I was running 60 mph. By the time I got to the top I was running 20 mph and had the truck to the floor. When I was driving it home it was tacking around 1800 rpm and my egts were only at 125 degrees. I know I'm not getting fuel. I thought it could be the fuel filter so I changed it. Still no luck. It'll start back up but it dies if I take my foot off the accelerator. It shook terrible when I was driving it home too. Is it injectors, uvch, hpop, or something else?
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'99 Mazda 323 Protege. Manual, fuel-injected, 4cyl.
Engine code: CE04D16
So just recently started having troubles with the car. It ran fine then all of a sudden I lost what felt like 15-25% power, and the engine felt like it was shaking a little.
When revving, then engine would shudder. Idle rev went from just over 1000 to around 500. there was very little pickup when increasing speed. I can only assume it is losing a cylinder. But since it is fuel injected, people have been saying check the leads, (from where to where?), the distributor, spark plugs etc etc. Now for the last couple days it has been jumping backwards and forwards, from regular to slow.
What is the problem, can I fix this myself, or do I need to take it to a mechanic?
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Today I took my AWD 2.7 Santa Fe out. All seemed fine until I made a turn... I noticed I was loosing power and came to a stop, despite pressing the gas pedal fully. The car then started to vibrate extremely hard and all of the dash lights came on. The car stalled completely. I tried to start the car again, but it took a few tries. The car shook severely in park, but when put in drive immediately became much worse and then completely stalled. I did this many times trying to get out of the street. I finally got it to work good enough to get off the road - I did however notice that it would not shift out of 1st gear. It had very high rpms, but refused to shift.
I am guessing this is the crankshaft position sensor? Could this be a MAF problem? I believe I read on this forum about high humidity making Santa Fes go crazy - it has been over 95% today, and raining. I managed to get the car down the road to a shop we trust. They are going to try and read codes later.
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I noticed on my way to work this morning that while I was in Neutral, the whole car shakes. Like, I can feel the entire car shaking, as if there's a Semi next to me. Yet, when I put it Drive or Park, the shaking stops. If I leave the car in Drive, it also will not shake, only when I shift into Neutral. I did notice, that the Tachometer was in the ~600RPM range when the shaking was occurred.
This isn't the first time it's done it, it's happened before. It rarely does it, usually a while after the engine is running. And it's only once, if I run the car all day, it won't shake at all.
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I have a 2007 Ford Fusion 4.0L AWD. One day I went to pass a slower car and accelerated rapidly, but the car responded with loss of power and shook to a stop and would not re fire. I took it to the dealership and they said two cylinders were not firing and a fuse was blown. I looked on the internet and some people said their coils go bad or plug wires. I asked the dealership if that was the cause and they said absolutely not, but it's the ECM. They replaced the ECM and 2 days later my CEL came on and I took it back to the dealership and they told me my catalytic converter was bad and I could drive it until I had the money to replace it. Then a couple days go by and I was passing a tractor on the highway, I slowed down to 45 mph to make the pass and as I began to accelerated I felt a thunk, then about a mile later it started cutting out and shaking. This time it would re fire but idle rough. I tried on/off 3 or 4 times then it idled o.k. I then took it back to the dealership and this time they said it's all 6 coils.
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I have a 2012 Elantra that I bought used with 15,000 miles on it. Since the day I bought it I have had different issues with it but one of my huge issues is that when in idle at a light or sitting still anywhere my car shakes like someone is bouncing a basketball in it. I have taken it to the dealership multiple times and they have replaced PCV Valve and cleaned it before replacing it and they have done some other things as well to it. I have gone to just talking to the service manager every time I go to service because I have taken my car in for the same issue every time!! I usually wait til there are multiple reason to go to the dealership before I take it back in because they never fix the issue!!
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I have a 2016 Elantra that was bought brand new in October of last year. Since about January, the front end of the car bucks when taking your foot off the accelerator to slow down. The brakes do not need to be applied to cause this to happen. When I say it bucks, it happens repeatedly for 3-5 seconds and everyone in he car can feel it. This happens mainly when going at speeds of 20-30 mph and when going short distances such as stop sign to stop sign or in bumper to bumper traffic. If I put the car in neutral the bucking instantly stops. Unfortunately this doesn't happen every day so the dealer has not been able to replicate it as of yet.
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My car was driving fine earlier today. I have been hearing a knocking that sounds like it's coming from the front drivers side for awhile now. I have an appointment to get that checked out tomorrow. However, today I washed my car. I washed it by hand and didn't was the engine or spray the under carriage. About an hour after I washed it I got out on the road and it started violently shaking at about 45mph. Other than that it seems to be running fine. It's not missing or making any strange noises. Why it would start shaking like this? I also need to know if I should be able to drive 100 miles to the shop where it is under warranty?
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I have noticed, in my 2012 Elantra with 32,000 miles on it, that my car is shaking at idle. I'll be at a red light or stop sign and the vibration is SUPER annoying. I have had it tested at a Hyundai Dealership. They couldn't "replicate the problem" and nothing it wrong with my car.
I may be trading this car in for the Veloster Turbo. I'm tired of how slow this car is. I know I sacrificed speed for gas mileage, but I have a question, does the Veloster have this problem as well?
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I have a 2004 Camry, 4 cylinder. 48000 miles, had it since 08 when my mother passed, and it had 6500 miles on it then. Over the past few months it has developed a grumbling sound on accelerating from a stop. I thought it was only audible from inside but I heard it when my wife pulled away and now I am concerned. Two ways to describe this.
1. Grumbling.
2. A diesel like sound
It lasts for a very short time and is silent while driving and idling. I have also noticed that the idle "feels" low. It is about 600-650. Not sure what it should be.
My plan was to buy and change fuel filter, air filter, PVC , and maybe some injector cleaner...
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I've had my 2013 Hyundai for about a week now and I feel a slight vibration/shaking when the car is stopped and I have my foot on the brake. When I was in the finance office signing all the papers, etc. The finance manager was trying to sell me the free oil changes for 3 years/tire rotations/filter change for $600. He was adamant that if I do not get all my service done by Hyundai dealer all the warranties are voided. I asked him specifically this question at least 3 times as I was appalled at the notion, and time and time again he would say the second you bring it somewhere else for an oil change the warranty is voided. 5 days later I brought the vehicle back to get my sticker, and I asked the guy at service, he said absolutely not. He said it doesn't matter as long as you have the proof/receipts.
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I have purchased a 2012 Elantra for my wife and I have noticed a fairly significant vibration/shaking when making hard right turns. It is most noticeable during medium to hard sweeping right turns at speeds between 30-45 mph. Strangely enough I have no left turn issues at all and do not notice any vibrations at or above highway speeds. We did hit a pothole on the right side with both front and rear tires making impact a few months ago around 55mph but there is no noticeable wheel or tire damage. I did take the car to a Hyundai dealership after noticing this issue and they did not have any issues or find anything wrong (just my luck). I am thinking of rotating the tires to the other side to see if anything changes. Also I should add I am sure this is not an ABS or stability control issue because I can hit the same corner in the opposite direction at greater speeds without any issues.
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My 97 Civic DX Coupe has 74,400 miles. In recent months it has started making a grumbling kind of muted creaking sound when I make any hard turn, does so on any 90 degree turn unless I take it slow and gradual. It has never made this sound before so I wondering what is up.
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50 V10... How to tell if the grumbling sound when under a load is the posi plates? If so, how to replace them.
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