Elantra MD (2010-15) :: Not Revving Down After Lifting Off Gas
Sep 27, 2016
Automatic trans. When jumping off a stoplight or sign, I accelerate up to between 2-3,000 rpm and lift off gas. Tach stays there, say at 2,500, and slowly goes down to normal 14-1500rpm while coasting.
Also noticed deep growl when lightly pressing accelerator to keep up in traffic. Overall, in-city driving this automatic feels like a manual being driven constantly between lowest gears when my foot is not on gas. Sometimes I need to accelerate even going down a moderately steep hill. Does not happen on highways. And yes: I *am* in Drive - not shift-tronic.
Is this just how these Elantras drive/sound? Car has just over 38,000mi. 2015 Elantra SE 1.8L ...
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I recently purchased a new (to me) 2010 prius and I've been noticing that sometimes, but not always, I hear a fairly loud noise when lifting my foot off the brake pedal. It sounds like a squeak or squeal, and I want to say I can almost feel a tiny bit of resistance in the pedal when it happens though that could be in my head. The noise does NOT occur when pushing down on the pedal (only when lifting), and it seems to only occur when the car is stopped.
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My car has been revving up to around 2-3k rpm upon startup... the mechanic says it's a faulty idle air control valve. He tried to clean it but to no avail--the car still revs up occasionally.
I can't find the IAC valce in the Hayne's Manual. Might it be called something else? The idle speed control actuator, perhaps? Is this is job for an industrious do-it-yourself?
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I have a 2002 Hyundai Elantra that is exhibiting some strange behavior at idle.It wants to rev from 1500 to 3000 rpm, then back down, over and over again, every two seconds or so. This does not occur when the car is in drive or reverse; it purrs along at a consistent 1200 rpm.It all started with overheating and a water pump change, which was completed and reassembled.Then on startup, we began getting this revving. We double and triple checked the timing belt. We sprayed plenty of carb/choke cleaner in the areas of the vacuum hoses searching for a leak to no avail. Whenever we hookup the OBD code reader, there are no codes.Why does my car want to challenge everyone to a drag race, and what is causing this?
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My 2004 hyundai elantra is revving up on its own up to about the 1 rpm area when I stop at stoplights. I am very worried that it is going to be a huge cost to get repaired.
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I had some problems with my Elantra and I fixed (or tried to) them all this weekend. I needed a new IAC motor, the motor was reving up and down and I tested it, then changed it. I needed a fuel injector and changed that. I needed a lower thermostat housing and changed that.
These changes resulted in the following problems. The vehicle now revs at a high idle all the time at approximately 3000. What are the causes of this?
I know that when I was burping the coolant system (changing out all the hoses and the thermostat housing) I got antifreeze sprayed all over the top of the motor.
Here is the problems that I have now. Didn't have these before.....
The engine idles at or about 3000 rpm. Constant from startup until shutdown. It idles down when you shift it into gear but that is because of the strain on the motor with the brake used.
The transmission is now having problems shifting from 1st to 2nd. I checked the fluid, its good. There is however antifreeze on top of the transmission by some sensors. Do these sensors have anything to do with the shifting?
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My engine temp gets too hot when revving the engine but cools down at idle. The top rad hose is hot and the bottom rad hose is cool. I'm suspecting a stuck thermostat?
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Driving car auto slips into neutral, car keeps revving until stopped lever put in neutral then into gear drive off again. Thats mothers version of what happens. This happens once a week for last six..
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2006 Hyundai Elantra. RPM's go flying everytime it's fired up. RPM's will drop once it's put into gear, reverse or drive and runs just fine afterwards. If it's not affecting how it drives should we just let it be? Is there anything to be concerned about?
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2002 Elantra engine is revving up to 3000 rpms when in neutral or park. I changed the Throttle Position sensor and it went right back to revving up. Code read P0121. What might be causing this? Seems like I get one thing fixed and then another code shows up..
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Just above the front drink holder, the rubberized material that is bonded to the plastic started bubbling and eventually grew to about two inches long and an inch wide.
The dealer is refusing to cover it under warranty because they think it looks like it is the result of a chemical spill. Water and maybe a soda are about the most volatile chemicals we have had in the car and where this happened there could have never been a pool of that sitting there because it runs right up the incline toward the shifter.
I'm wondering if this is at all common, because they are acting like they've never seen anything like it?
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The underside coating is peeled off where the vehicle lifter makes contact. Is this normal or does this indicate the dealer lifted the vehicle incorrectly?
I went only to dear so far. It was done by the dealer. The bright metal is exposed. I did not notice rust yet.
I happened to notice the peel off while I was installing mud flaps myself.
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I happened to look at the top of my 04 Excursion yesterday and found the paint cracking and lifting off the roof. So the first thing I did was to come look here and see if it was a common issue. I searched and found a couple threads about this issue from 2 and 4 years ago.
Apparently, the paint was applied too thick and that is why it cracks, lifts and breaks off. Some said they went to ford and ford has offered some type of discount on the repair.
But, that was years ago and I'm not sure if I think that ford is liable to fix this on an 8 year old vehicle.
I uploaded a couple pictures of the sots : Roof Paint Cracking - Picture
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Today while driving, I was declining down a rather steep grade. I had my cruise control set at 65mph. As I was driving, I heard an odd noise, almost like my Prius was "revving" in a neutral gear. The battery was at a full or near full charge when this happened.
I found somewhere "What you're hearing is the engine braking - just what you'd expect when using B. The engine spins (pumps air) to slow down. At some point, if you have heavily charged your battery on the descent, the engine will be spun by the electric motor just to bleed off that excess electricity."
Only problem being, I was not in the "B" gear, I was in "D".
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I just brought my 2011 Prius to the dealership today after the check engine light came on. Last night, the car was intermittently revving at a high level, but otherwise the car as running fine. The service technician was saying it was the VSV valve that was intermittently sticking. I was told that there was a software update on this valve that might take care of the problem; I asked about the lifespan for the valve, but he had no information about that. I told him to just do the software update, but now I'm wondering if I should also replace the valve.
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After stepping over gas pedal revving up, when I release the gas pedal I can hear the engine revving up some more instead of slowing down.
When I release the pedal, the engine is still making the noise as if I am stepping on the gas harder for about 3 seconds. when this happened, EV mode will be always not available, and gasoline consumption is increased. Getting lower MPG.
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I just noticed on my wife's camry the rear door pillar post plastic is sort of lifting/buckling in the middle. The front doors pillar plastic is fine just on both rear doors it started to lift in the middle. When you push it back down it stays for a second or two then lifts up again. the car is 2012 and only has 10k miles Not happy.
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I bought a CPO 2010 Camry LE (2.5 4 cyl, 6 sp auto) a few months ago. The car had around 34K miles when I got it, and ever since then, it has had a high pitched whining noise when accelerating or revving the engine in park. It is noticeable from around 2500RPM up, and seems to be a little louder when the engine is cold.
I have left it at the dealer twice, and both times they have come back and said it is normal. I can't believe this, because I have owned many cars over the years, most of them being fairly dilapidated, yet most of them haven't had a noise like this. I think I have read a comment online somewhere that an issue like this was found due to a bad power steering pump .
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i own a 2010 corolla s with only 3000 miles on it. it is a 5 speed and the other day, when revving out 3rd gear to 5500 rpm, my motor started missing, and my check engine, vsc, and trac control lights came on. i turned off the motor and then started it back up and it ran fine but the dummy lights stayed on. i took it to the dealer and they check the codes and it showed that cylinder 2 missed. after explaining to them how it happened and taking a service technician for a ride, they took off the valve cover on my motor, and seen that 3 rocker arms had FALLEN OFF and they tried making me pay $700 to fix it because i was "over revving the motor". I was told that the rocker arms cant withstand that high of rpms and they will fall off due to the floating design "not bolted". but after 2 hours of arguing, they said they would cover it, but only this 1 time. I don't understand why they have the rev limiter set at 6,300 on these cars, when the rocker arms are capable of coming off at 5,500.
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I'm trying to change out the passenger low beam and I can't see to get the dust cover off. Is there a trick to this? I'm turning on it counterclockwise as hard as I can and it won't budge. The high beam one comes off easily.
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I pressed the start button, foot on the brake, (like normal), and the engine revs but won't turn over. Here is the YouTube link of what is happening...
2012 Hyundai Elantra Limited Won't Start - YouTube
Calling the dealership in the morning.
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